Honda - Accord :: 2000 - Noise And Smoke When Jump Start / Alternators Keep Dying
May 2, 2012
While jumping dead battery , there was horrible noise and smoke -- mechanic replaced alternator and the cooked battery. The 2000 Accord not used much, but after replacements , it was started and run regularly in driveway. But when driven light indicated battery not charging. Alternator replaced again. Car started fine several times, then was dead one morning after having been driven day before. Jumped again. No problem starting and running car for about a month. Drove car uneventfully about 20 miles. Next morning battery was dead again.
This time when car was jumped, it started fine, but after two minutes, same horrible noise and smoke as before. I do not wish to jump car again, but it seems unlikely that there would be two bad alternators in a row. Also it is curious that problem occurs after car has been driven but not when is run while sitting in driveway. What are likely causes for energy drain? Is a "specialist" on electrical circuitry called for? I have used this mechanic before with good results and AAA trusts him.
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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It was only started once during that time. when I hooked up the jumper cables from a running car to mine, I try and start the car and all I hear is a continuous clicking sound. is that an alternator, starter or spark plug problem?
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This is for my previous car that I used to own in 2005. It was a 1992 Honda Accord and the issue it had was anytime I went to the gas station to fill up the gas, the car refused to start and I would need to jump start the vehicle every time. I used to take the DC metro to work everyday, so I did not have to use the car as much, but it was a hassle. This happened all through the year and I was just used to carrying a Jump Starter Box with me in the car. There were no other issues with the car. I do not recall needing a jump start any other time. This one time, I forgot to keep my car in the garage and it was out in the snow all weekend. Come Monday morning, I started the car without any issues. I went to a friends place about 10 miles away and then tried to fill gas at a gas station near his place and it died at the gas station. I do not have the car with me now, having totaled it in an accident couple of years ago. But I was always amazed at this and would like to know what would cause something like this.
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So, for the last week or so my cars has started dieing while driving. First time it died randomly when approaching stop signs a couple years ago. Now it seems to have progressed and dies while on the highway and now has become more frequent to date. I checked for vacuum leak and spraying all visible lines that I could see from engine bay. Engine codes...the array of engine codes. P0420 catalyst system efficiency, P0706 trans solenoid 'C' clutch, and P0430 another catalyst system inefficiency to join it's brother P0420. The car starts up fine in the morning. Car does not ride rough.
Today I changed the spark plugs and noticed oil in all 4 wells and a lot of oil in the 3rd one. I changed the spark plugs because they were 20k miles and figured I might as well replace them while I'm diagnosing the car. So turned back on the car after doing the job and got a puff of smoke...go to o'reillys and new codes. P108(MAP Pressure Circuit High Input), P110(Something about coolant being high input) and still the P0420. (Shop I took it to must have removed old codes. Not sure why).
So there shouldn't be oil in the wells because my shop did head gasket job 2 years ago. I'm pretty confident in their work, so I'm thinking it must be blowby and because the amount of oil in all 4 wells. (But then again this is the cars second head gasket job, so who knows) If it is indeed the rings causing blow by, is it safe to drive around with oil in the wells? If I drain it regularly can I continue to drive it safely? Is there a test to determine if it's blowby?
I ran car for oil cap off looking for smoke, nothing. I did feel a steady stream of air though, not sure what's normal and abnormal on that front.
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My father in law gave us a car to use so my husband can get back n forth to work. Recently it started dying on him while he was on the highway and we don't know whats wrong with it. His father told us its a brand new batter that was put in it before he gave it to us. The car is a 1990 Honda Accord. The radio already doesn't work so its always off. The car dies no matter if heat/air is on or off. I don't think it could be a battery problem. There's 2 lights that come on when it dies: battery and oil. We put oil in it. The weird thing is that after it dies, we put it in park and turn key in ignition to off position and then restart it and it starts right back up with no problem. We really don't know whats wrong with it but cant afford to take it to mechanics to tell us 100 other things wrong with it..
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2000 Honda Accord. Daughters car and she went to start the car leaving a store and it wouldn't start. She tried a few times. Cranks fine but didn't start. Went and got her and she said that it's happened a couple of times before but she would get it started by waiting and trying until it did. It's been there since last night so it's been about 18 hours when I drove over to look at it and it started right up and I drove it home.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord that has no power won't start . Just replaced a fuel pump spark plugs battery .. Wondering if it could be a short some where . It did start today then I shut it off and try to start again and had no power .
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2000 Honda Accord V6 EX Coupe
I change the oil regularly in this car and I replaced the battery in August 2014. I’d never had a problem with this car until back in June 2015 on a very hot day when I went to start it and the engine would not start. It was cranking and cranking and the starter was smooth, there were no knocks or anything out of the ordinary, the car just wouldn’t start. I started checking various things on the car, not really knowing what to do. After around 30 minutes I tried to start the car and it started up and ran completely fine. I didn’t change anything or mess with anything on the car. It just started.
This happened around twice a month until September and then I didn’t have the problem for a couple of months. It’s now December 2015, and the problem has returned. But now it is more common and happens almost every time I try to start the engine. But so far, it always starts if I wait 30 minutes or maybe a bit longer.
Important info:
I work from home and drive this car twice a week at the most. It sits for days at a time without being started. But this has been the case for the past 4 years and this probelm didn’t start happening until June 2015.
There is no movement on the tachometer when the car cranks but won’t start. The green key light doesn’t constantly blink when they key is turned. It blinks a few times then stops blinking. The check engine light isn’t on and there are no other lights on.
When the car runs, it runs smoothly and I’ve never had a problem with it cutting off or acting strange. Once the car starts and I drive it for even around 5 minutes, I can turn it off and then start it again immediately without a problem. I’ve never tried to start the car, then immediatley turn it off, then start it again so I don’t know if it would start in that situation.
It’s been kind of warm for this time of year where I live (North Carolina). It’s been around 70 degrees outside this week.
I removed the cover over the fuel pump in the trunk. I don’t think there’s any sound coming from the fuel pump when I turn the key on. I can’t hear it priming (if that’s the correct term). But when I let the car sit for 30 minutes and turn the key to on, I can’t hear anything then either, and the car still starts right up.
I took the car to a garage, but the car was starting then. I let it sit there for around two hours maybe three and went back, but the car started right up, so the mechanic told me he couldn’t do anything if the car was starting. I mean he said he would try some stuff, but he seemed kind of stumped himself. I didn’t want to start paying him money to just “try some stuff.” But I might have to do that.
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I have a 2000 honda v7 coupe and recently I've been having problems starting it. Generally when I drive to work in the morning it's fine. However if I am running errands and make many stops then it isn't. After stopping at one place I start my car like usual, then the RPMs rise, the car rumble, and then it stops. However if i pump the gas then it is fine. When I am driving then I have no issues and the car runs smoothly. I recently had a major maintenance and also told them about this problem. They said that they couldn't diagnose it since I didn't bring it in with the problem.
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I have a 2000 Honda accord and in the cold it has a hard time starting. It will turn over but it is like it is not starting right away. I also notice there are times when it starts to turn over but then it dies out.
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My car shakes when I start the engine, and continues to shake, it doesn't matter what gear I'm in. It also smells like gas when I get out of the car. Since my check engine light is blinking, and with all I've heard on the show, next step is to to take it to a mechanic. My question is, would it be okay to drive it 5 miles to a mechanic, or should I have it towed? Someone said it may be a misfire, and to change the spark plugs?
2000 Honda Accord Ex 6 Cylinder 163K on the mileage....
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Own a 2000 Accord EX; 100k...runs great and smooth 99.9% of the time. However every once in a while, like maybe once a month or so it starts, but sounds and feels like its firing on 3 cyl...will die if I try to put in gear, or take foot off accelerator. If I shut it off and try starting it again same thing will happen. However if I let it sit awhile (sometimes one hour sometimes next day) it will start smoothly and run beautifully. Problem seems unrelated to temperature, weather, time since last use, stage of the moon, engine temp, parked on hill or flat road. or who tries to start the car...
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Car ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
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2000 Honda Accord. Lots of whining-whirring noise when turning the steering wheel so I replaced the power steering pump. Then replaced the fluid and I did use the Honda fluid. But even with the new pump and fluid I'm still getting the whining-whirring sound from the pump when turning. Now what?
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So ive been having a problem with my 2004 Honda Accord. It on occasion doesn't start. I'm talking about once a month I run into this problem. When I do have this problem, I turn the key and it cranks but doesn't start. At the end of the crank I get a scratching noise. My alternator, spark plugs and battery are all fairly new (4 months old) and oem. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump failing.
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord. When I start the engine I hear a muted clacking sound not a whoosh like air and then it disappears after a few moments. This does not happen after I drive the car to the and park it for less than a 3 hours but if parked longer it occurs again.
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Every time I try to start my 95 Honda Accord, there is a fast clicking sound and the car will not start. All of the interior lights come on, and the car is full of gas, so I'm not quite sure what the problem might be. My car did start before we were hit with all of this snow in MA, but now it's not.Why my car will not start?
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
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I have a 2002 honda accord dx. We have had to get it fixed a few months ago. It had something to do with the cooling system. Ran fine until recently. It ran hot. I pulled over. Let it cool. Never happened again. I watch my temperature gauge and only drive it around town.
Today, I left it running for a short time while I picked up my son to keep the air conditioner running. As I was walking out the door, I heard a loud pop and smoke started pouring out from under the hood. I ran out and turned the car off immediately. I'm freaking out! I'm letting it cool now. I haven't popped the hood yet.
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It's a 96 Honda Accord Ex. Yesterday afternoon, all of a sudden white smoke started coming out from the right side of the front of my car. I immediately pulled over and when I did, I could smell nothing but burnt or burning rubber! My car was overheating for some reason too, so I let it cool down for about an hour before inspecting anything. I drove into a residential neighborhood: in the process, my car was jerking forward, as if the engine was forcing itself to stay on, but not having the power.
When I finally was able to look under the hood, I saw that the hose that sucked coolant/anti-freeze out of the reserve to the side had melted off somehow, and my radiator wasn't able to pull anti-freeze out of the reserve. So I noted that I needed to replace that hose immediately. By this time, everything was closed in town, so I'm able to drive it home and let it sit overnight, to completely cool down. I added some coolant directly into the radiator this morning, in hopes that it would make it a little better. I started my car shortly after, and it did. But it has the same jerky motion when driving, as if it's about to cut off on me again.
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