I have a 2000 Accord with about 65000 miles on it, 5 speed manual. The clutch is getting flaky. One time recently, it went to the floor and stayed there until I pulled the pedal back out. Then it worked fine for many days. Dealer could not get the problem to repeat; no leaks found. But now sometimes it is hard to get the car in gear (especially reverse), or the clutch feels spongy, but not in a consistent way.
View 2 RepliesI just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
View 8 RepliesI own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
View 10 RepliesI just had the front seals replaced in my 93 accord standard shift wagon. After about 4 days the clutch started feeling "soft" and now it's almost down to the floor in order to engage it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the seal replacement?
View 14 RepliesA couple of years ago I went through the salt water with my 2003 Honda Accord which is a manual transmission. It only has 106,000 miles and expects it to go much further. The clutch works great but when engaged is really loud. I have had it checked by 2 different auto repair places. Nothing is wrong they say. It has been cleaned and greased.
View 19 RepliesWe have a 2000 Honda Accord, standard shift, with 105,000 miles on it. The clutch has been sticking at the floor on random occasions (especially on hot days). Our mechanic (Honda Dealer) has not been able to correct the problem. Last summer he changed the clutch fluid and said that looked like the problem as it was vey dark. It corrected the problem for a few months but now it is happening again in the cold weather. It can happen at any time you depress the clutch, even while shifting when moving. Of course, then it is very difficult to get the car in gear. Our only solution is to manually pick up the clutch with hand or foot and this is dangerous in traffic.
View 4 RepliesHad my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 Honda Accord LX stick shift that's giving me some trouble. I bought it at 146k miles and now it has 151k miles.
-- Here is the symptom --I feel that I have to lift the clutch pedal higher to fully engage the clutch after driving for 20 mins. The problem showed up several times and one time the clutch was somewhat slipping and I had to park it somewhere and got towed. After sitting there for several hours or overnight, the problem would gone -- and it could show up again at some time. The strange thing is that I am not always getting this problem. The car could sometimes run over 1 hour without any unusual feeling on the clutch.
I also noticed that when the clutch is not working well, the clutch pedal is stiffer than usual (I never had problem disengaging the clutch though). When I push the pedal to the very bottom on the floor, I can hear some noise and the car even had a tendency to move a little when in 1st gear.
Once I opened the hood and looked at the position of the release fork when the car was cold. After driving about 20 minutes, I looked again and found that the fork moved a little bit away from the slave cylinder as if someone was pushing the clutch pedal gently! I think that's why the point at which the clutch engages is becoming higher. But I don't know what is the real problem. I replaced the slave cylinder last week but it did not solve the issue. Is the clutch bad again or the cylinder?
Here is the repair history --About a year and a half ago I found the clutch slipping. So I had the clutch replaced and the flywheel resurfaced by a mechanic. It was good for a few months until that problem rose again. Then I went to an auto shop. They told me that the slave cylinder was the real problem and got it replaced. I was good for about a year. Now I am still getting the trouble above.
I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
My car stalled one day like I was in a high gear at too low of a speed when i was in neutral. It now acts as if it is in a high gear all the time when I am in neutral. When I press the clutch it will idle like it is supposed to but when i let off it pushes forward slightly then stalls exactly like it would if i was in 4th or 5th gear. When I shift into 1st 2nd 3rd or reverse it dies as if it is in gear but will not move even slightly, when I shift into 4th or 5th it again dies but it but is acting just as I would expect 4th or 5t to at a complete stop i feel slightly more power in 4th which is expected being a lower gear but I also feel 5th pull just like its supposed to. I cannot get it to come out of the high gear it is in even though i can move the stick into the neutral position. It is difficult to get the shifter into 4th or 5th but it will move into the other positions like it should with the same no power result. My clutch is fairly new and i have tried inspecting my sift linkage wit no obvious problems. (1991 honda accord lx 5 spd, 2.2 sohc)
View 2 RepliesI have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
View 9 RepliesMy clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
View 1 RepliesMy clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
View 8 RepliesMy 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
My car just started knocking terribly--making a really loud noise at all speed and all gears. (Not when idling, though.) It is a 2000 Honda Accord. Both the oil and the oil filter were changed about 2000 miles ago, so the oil should be good. What might be causing this?
View 17 Replies2000 Honda Accord. Daughters car and she went to start the car leaving a store and it wouldn't start. She tried a few times. Cranks fine but didn't start. Went and got her and she said that it's happened a couple of times before but she would get it started by waiting and trying until it did. It's been there since last night so it's been about 18 hours when I drove over to look at it and it started right up and I drove it home.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda Accord that has no power won't start . Just replaced a fuel pump spark plugs battery .. Wondering if it could be a short some where . It did start today then I shut it off and try to start again and had no power .
View 9 Replies2000 Honda Accord V6 EX Coupe
I change the oil regularly in this car and I replaced the battery in August 2014. I’d never had a problem with this car until back in June 2015 on a very hot day when I went to start it and the engine would not start. It was cranking and cranking and the starter was smooth, there were no knocks or anything out of the ordinary, the car just wouldn’t start. I started checking various things on the car, not really knowing what to do. After around 30 minutes I tried to start the car and it started up and ran completely fine. I didn’t change anything or mess with anything on the car. It just started.
This happened around twice a month until September and then I didn’t have the problem for a couple of months. It’s now December 2015, and the problem has returned. But now it is more common and happens almost every time I try to start the engine. But so far, it always starts if I wait 30 minutes or maybe a bit longer.
Important info:
I work from home and drive this car twice a week at the most. It sits for days at a time without being started. But this has been the case for the past 4 years and this probelm didn’t start happening until June 2015.
There is no movement on the tachometer when the car cranks but won’t start. The green key light doesn’t constantly blink when they key is turned. It blinks a few times then stops blinking. The check engine light isn’t on and there are no other lights on.
When the car runs, it runs smoothly and I’ve never had a problem with it cutting off or acting strange. Once the car starts and I drive it for even around 5 minutes, I can turn it off and then start it again immediately without a problem. I’ve never tried to start the car, then immediatley turn it off, then start it again so I don’t know if it would start in that situation.
It’s been kind of warm for this time of year where I live (North Carolina). It’s been around 70 degrees outside this week.
I removed the cover over the fuel pump in the trunk. I don’t think there’s any sound coming from the fuel pump when I turn the key on. I can’t hear it priming (if that’s the correct term). But when I let the car sit for 30 minutes and turn the key to on, I can’t hear anything then either, and the car still starts right up.
I took the car to a garage, but the car was starting then. I let it sit there for around two hours maybe three and went back, but the car started right up, so the mechanic told me he couldn’t do anything if the car was starting. I mean he said he would try some stuff, but he seemed kind of stumped himself. I didn’t want to start paying him money to just “try some stuff.” But I might have to do that.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles on it. Runs great. The car alarm goes off randomly in spurts. Some days it goes off multiple times. Sometimes it will go a week or two without going off at all. The battery has been replaced in hopes of solving the problem. That didn't work. So, I have taking out the alarm sounding device so as to not disturb the neighbors. However, I find that dangerous and it doesn't solve the problem of the persistent alarm. I can tell when it is going off by the flashing lights. I thought it was the clicker, so I switched that and that didn't work either.
View 4 RepliesI took my 2000 Honda Accord to the mechanic and he told me my transmission is failing. He suggested that I put in a re-built transmission. I trust my mechanic, but considering the car has 207,000 miles on it I am not sure if it is a wise investment. Besides the jerking the car is in good condition and have taken it to the same mechanic for maintenance since I bought it 14 years ago, but I am not sure how long a re-built transmission will last. I only need to get 2-3 more years out of this car until I save up enough money to buy a new car.
View 8 Replies