I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 with 101,000 miles - I am the second owner and the car was meticulously maintained and garage kept by the original owners. I need to have the timing belt replaced and am wondering if I should have the water pump and/or other parts replaced during this repair? Economic prudence is of the essence.
View 19 Replies1999 Honda Accord EX, 224K miles, 4 cylinder. Timing belt broke yesterday and ruined some exhaust valves. Also needs new radiator. Should I spend quoted approx $3500 for fixed cylinder head and valves, 30K mile check (plugs, valve adj etc), new radiator, might also include piston rings, not sure? Completely trust the mechanic. Other recent work already done is one new front wheel bearing and axle, new bearing boots on both sides, oxygen sensor, new clutch a year ago. Interior/exterior are in good shape. How many more miles am I likely to get on this engine if I have the work done? Will I likely need ball joints replaced soon? Anything else I should be considering?
View 8 RepliesI am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 Honda Accord with V Tec engine, 2.2L. I have an oil leak that is coming from BEHIND the timing belt cover. I removed the cover and the belts to expose several seals. The oil leak is quite extensive and leaves a good puddle after running the engine, however, it will not leak once I clean up the mess, put the car up on jack stands and disassemble the engine. I cannot tell which seal is leaking and am wondering how to tell which seal is leaking. Is there a way to apply pressure to the engine with air, possibly through the oil dipstick hole to possibly expose the leaking seal?
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 110k miles on it. It used to be very quite and drives smoothly. I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Right after i got my car back from my mechanic, the driving felt differently. Two main problems, first, every time I stop at red lights or traffic, the car vibrates and you can feel it from the steering wheel. Second, when I start to accelerate and when engine is over 2100 rpm, the engine becomes much louder than before, I feel like I am driving a race car. Other than these two problems, the can seems to drive fine. I took it back and they told me this is normal and takes time to settle down. Is this normal after the time belt change or what might have gone wrong?
View 14 RepliesI took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly. When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage.
This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later. The dealer says I need to change a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I'm having difficulty evaluating the best course of action. What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?
I bought a 2002 accord with 105800 miles 3 weeks ago. I got the timing belt and water pump replaced within a week of that. I have noticed that the car makes a high pitch noise upon accelerating after replacing the belt. It does not happen always, but sometimes. I have noticed it on 3 days in last 2 weeks. A preliminary web search tells me that it could be a tight timing belt.
View 3 RepliesMy dad changed the timing belt on my 99 CR-V in August and he had some trouble getting it in time (he had to tear down and put it back together 3 times!). Sometime after the timing belt/water pump/spark plug change, I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel while at a stop and a loss of MPG (went from getting 24 mpg to 22.7).
It did not happen immediately after the timing belt change (or at least i dont think it did) so i thought the mpg loss might be due to the changing weather and the vibration coming from a motor mount that i knew was broken, but I got the motor mount fixed and it did not do anything. I think that the vibration has gotten worse, but it seems to be at its worst when the car is really cold. (this morning the temp. was 9 degrees and it vibrated harder than it ever has).
The vibration only happens when the car is in park or at a stop, and it goes away when i accelerate, even if I only accelerate a little bit. I have not noticed a loss in power, or any sluggishness in acceleration. I have tried to research this, and I read something about the drive belt being out of time, but I'm not savvy with cars so I just don't know.
What could be the cause, do I HAVE to get it fixed, and what do you think a reasonable cost to repair is?
Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
View 11 RepliesMy 1990 Acura Integra is on her 4th timing belt...still going strong after 25 years! Long ago, I was told by the people who worked on my car that it was best to replace the Timing Belt every 60K. My Manual says inspect at 60K but replace at 90K.I typically have changed it at around 65K....and now it is a bit beyond the 65K mark for this timing belt ( also do the water pump, etc) as the car is now at 262,327 miles.I am tempted to wait a bit longer, as it is not even close to the 90K mark.
View 19 RepliesI have a GX470 and just had the timing belt replaced. Now my "airbag light" stays on all the time.
View 12 RepliesI replace my timing belt and water pump and my engine is now over heating. I notice it's only over heats when the ac is running and the engine is idling. When I start to drive the engine temp goes down.
View 1 RepliesI had the Timing belt, roller, tensioner, belts, etc replaced and I am getting this funny ticking noise after the engine tuns on. It seems to go away after the engine warms up but not all the time. I have the AWM engine and bought the kit from ECS tuning. My mechanic (who is excellent and beyond honest) thinks that I have sludge in the engine. The engine was super quiet before the whole kit was replaced so I doubt that all of a sudden the sludge, if present, would cause this. I have been meticulous with oil changes and always used the appropriate weight and type. Castol Syntec 502. My mechanic told me that the belts and everything looked in great shape at 89000 miles. I wonder if I should have bought OEM parts. Otherwise the car runs perfectly.
View 1 RepliesI replaced a timing belt and related parts on a v 6 atq motor and three weeks later there's a pretty good oil leak, where its from or if oil leak can be related to timing belt replacement... leak seems to be in same area as crank pulley but not sure...
View 2 RepliesI have just bought a 2000 passat 1.8t. The car had broken timing belt so i was just planning to replace the timing belt but there is another issue. When i was disassembling the radiator support I took off the intercooler but there was a lot of motor oil so I am not quite sure what is the problem. And do have to rebuild the engine or replace the cylinder head because of the broken timing timing belt. The belt was actually not broken only belt teeth are gone so I think that piston and valves might crashed.
View 10 RepliesI have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
View 1 RepliesI have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
View 4 RepliesMy 2001Honda Civic EX (manual) has only about 46,000 miles on the clock and runs very well. My mechanic says I should consider replacing the timing belt (the manual suggests after seven years). I plan on keeping the car for many more years -- should I replace the belt now? How devastating is it if the belt breaks while driving?
View 5 RepliesI think I made a bad decision. Almost a year ago, I purchased my used Odyssey. I cannot remember if the timing belt had been changed. My check engine light came on, and the mechanic I took it to indicated it was the seal on the gas cap. He proceeded to tell me that I have an oil leak coming from the oil pump and that I should replace it and while I'm in there, I should replace the timing belt. There were a myriad of other things wrong with it, including broken engine mounts (which I can get fixed elsewhere from the man I purchased the car from) and some other things he said I can spread out and are basic maintenance, but I said to go forward with the oil pump and timing belt.
View 6 RepliesOur pilot is 8 years old but has only 64, 000 miles on it. The dealership is recommending we change motor mounts and timing belt. Although the motor mounts don't seem to be broken and nothing is rattling we have to change the motor mounts due to the fact that the engine is moving more than an inch. Having said that in 6 months we have to put the pilot in long term storage for 3 years. Should we change the timing belt now given the low mileage and the long term storage situation?
View 11 RepliesMy wife and I have a 1997 Honda Accord, roughly 260k miles. A few months back the Check Engine light came on, diagnostic came back with P0420, typically indicating the catalytic converter is shot. Who am I to argue, it was an factory part. So we replaced that with an inexpensive Magnaflow converter. (don't have the part number on me); this was 5 days ago. Today my wife takes the car in for inspection. Check Engine is still on with the same code. The guy at the testing station begins laughing at my wife when she says we only spent about 200 in parts and labour on the new converter. I'm inclined to think that since we already replaced the converter that I should be looking somewhere else (O2 sensor maybe). But I also don't want to just start throwing parts at it. Do I have a case here? I would really prefer not to spend $1000 on a car that old with that many miles on it just to pass inspection.
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