Honda - Accord :: 1999 - Delay / Hesitation Between Pressing Gas And Engine Responding
Jun 1, 2015
1999 honda accord LX/AT, 156k, 4 cyl, automatic, original owner, been doing all the regular maintenance..
About a year back, got the EGR valve cleaned and then replaced due to some stalls.a month back engine stalled and gave up on highway 10 miles into the morning drive.had to put it in neutral, and push it to shoulder.. ignition would turn over, engine would try to start but wouldn't.shop replaced the IAC.. they didn't say if there were any codes..
All this while, in stop-and-go traffic, where i try to be efficient and keep pumping on thegas pedal and cruising as opposed to braking, i have been noticing adelay/hesitation between pressing on the gas, and the engine responding.sometimes i feel like a lurch, and fear that a stall is coming, but the rpm's pick up and thecar goes on.
If I am decisively hitting the gas or braking, the engine is behaving better!it is when i am pumping on the gas and releasing, that i observe this hesitation.. Also there is a delay in the car shifting into higher gear..
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Picked up the car 5 days ago but noticed when I press the clutch and rev the engine, there's a throttle delay/hesitation and a simultaneous sound like "psshht". The sound is almost like when you're shifting a turbo car with a blow off valve.
Other than that the car is great. 2012 Elantra GL manual ...
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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I have a 2009 honda accord, v6, auto, 46k. It has recently started to chug, most of the time, not always. I feel it in the gas pedal. Kind of a jerking, hesitation chug while accelerating. It only chugs between 20-40 mph, disappears after that. Someone suggested a spark plug problem, but I can't imagine it's that since it disappears after 40mph. Could it be a transmission problem?
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I have a Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. 2002. It has sluggish acceleration and hesitation problems. I put in new plugs and that improved it some. My mechanic says I should pay him to clean the fuel injectors. What will work best? What needs to be cleaned? Would new plug wires work? Gumout? Big differences in cost.
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic with 190K miles. Usually runs fine. The other day it was torrential downpours as I'm driving on the highway. After about 100 miles of rainy driving, I lost the ability to accelerate. All accessories still on, but no response from the gas pedal. At the same moment, the check engine light came on, then -- while coasting off an exit ramp -- the car made a loud squealing noise for about 10 seconds.
I turned the car off, and was able to restart it without problems, although the engine was idling strangely with a faint knocking/fluttering noise. Drove to a Sears where they ran diagnostics on the engine -- the only code that came up was that the TDC Sensor was picking up noise. But the car ran, so we kept driving and the check engine light shut off on its own.
Managed to drive 2 hours to our destination, but had one incident of squealing from the engine (about 10 seconds while slowing down and then speeding up), and lost ability to accelerate again, this time accompanied by the Battery Light coming on as well as the Check Engine.
Today the car is in the shop, with Check Engine light off again but Battery Light still on. Mechanic suggested it might be the Alternator, but that seems odd to me because we just replaced the alternator, battery about 5 months ago and all accessories worked fine when we lost ability to accelerate, and the car was able to restart.
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6 Months ago, when entering a carwash, the engine on my 1999 Honda Accord stopped immediately as the underbody spray hit the car. I rolled it back, tried a few times, and it started and ran as though nothing happened. Earlier this week, during a rain storm, I drove through a puddle and again, the engine immediately stopped and I coasted to a stop.
Both times electrical components in the car continued to work (wipers, lights, windows), but I tried to jump it just in case to no avail.I had it towed to a repair shop where they said that all the harnesses were wet, so they dried it out and was able to get it to run again. But they couldn't tell where the water was coming from. There is also an issue with the center panel fuse (radio and power outlet); it shorts out whenever replaced with a new fuse (not sure if this is related to the main issue...).
I called a Honda Dealership repair center to see if this was something they had heard of before with this model/year, and it was new to them. They also said not to bring it to them since their diagnostics wouldn't discover anything if it was running.
The car is running fine now, but I'm always going to expect it to stop unexpectedly.
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My '99 Accord has developed a bad habit of shutting itself off while I'm driving. The first time this happened was a few months ago. The engine shut off and the key light flashed, as if I had turned the key to shut the car off. The radio and lights remained on. It started again without incident.
In the last month, it has been happening more frequently. I have noticed that sometimes I am unable to get the engine to turn over the first time. This is always followed by the car shutting off at some point while I'm driving.
Today, I was unable to start my car the first few times I tried and it shut off three or four times on my five minute trip home. The radio, lights for the A/C and windows all still had power. I had trouble restarting the car after each incident but did eventually get it going again.
What the problem is? Maybe it's just time for a new car...
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder w/ manual transmission that will intermittently kill while driving. Obviously its distressing, but its been a couple months in between incidents, so its hard to take it seriously, because the car will operate normally for long periods of time, but when it kills, especially on the freeway, it can be frightening.
Luckily the car will start again - pop it into neutral and turn the key, stick it back in 5th gear, and keep driving. Previously, but not lately, from a cold start the car would start up briefly (1 second or so), then kill, and if then if you crank it again it would start right up. Not sure how it relates to the issue while driving, but it could be relevant.
I have heard it might be the fuel pump going bad slowly. Not sure on this, haven't replaced anything there yet (cost/time)I have heard it could be an electrical relay (can't remember the exact name) but I did replace that, and still having the issue.
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My 1999 Honda Accord is making a whirring noise sometimes. It happens occasionally, now more frequently than last month. It sometimes happens when I start the engine, but am still in Park. Mostly it happens when I'm actually driving. both slowly on back roads and fast on the highway. What would cause this?
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I have a Honda Accord that has a very strange kind of failure. I've taken it to two mechanics - both fixed "something" - but I'm still without a car.
99 Honda Accord LX202,019 Miles
My check engine light is on and one time while driving down the road my car turns off. I need to make a road trip so I go see Mechanic 1.
Mechanic 1 - Check engine light had been on and his machine tells him the O2 sensors need to be replaced. We replace both. Light goes off. When asked about the 'spontaneous shutoff' - said it was a fluke and probably no big deal. He can't see anything other than what the computer tells him to replace.
Instrument panel currently shows no lights on. Everything works normally. I drive 1500 miles back to Wi and right as I get there....
Case 1 - I am driving down the street (residential, freeway, whatever) going any speed and the instrument panel suddenly loses all power. Speedometer drops to 0. Odometer drops to 0. The cabin (radio, clock) remain on and undisturbed. Engine is completely unresponsive to depressing the pedal and seems to be completely disengaged. The car is hard to steer but can be angled off the road. (but you can still hear your music....hooray...as you try to not get killed dodging off the side of the road)
Case 2 - On the side of the road/parking lot and the car will not turn on. Seems like it is about to start, but then dies before completing turning over. You wait 15 minutes. Then the car will actually turn over a bit more, but still not complete a start.
Case 3 - As I start the car I press the gas and rev the engine up to 4K RPMs for 4 seconds. The car then remains on. I drive for as long as it will go before Case 1 happens again.
While in WI I take it to a mechanic 2.
Mechanic 2 - Runs a test and believes there is a failure in the ignition assembly. Replaces 1 part that spans 3 different parts because he believes its cheaper to do that than to have him go all the way in there to get the 1 that he thinks is bad.
I drive the car 1400 back to AZ and Case 2 happens when we stop to get supplies. I perform case 3, the car starts and we make it back to California alive.
I try to drive the car around locally after getting back but cases 1-3 happen every other time I drive it.
Case X - The car sat idle for a few weeks as I thought it was "not safe to drive." Power locks on the car start to fail. No longer can get into the car without putting a key in a door and only that door will open. Car now has no power.
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I've tagged this as a Civic but it's a 1999 Honda City 1.5 EX. (Asian market vehicle)
Normally this car would shift to 2nd at 20km/hr and 3rd at 40. But if I hit 40+ and it shifts into third, then coast for a while and let the speed drop to below 40 (say 35), when I push the throttle now the car doesn't kick down and it feels like it has almost no power even if I push the throttle to the floor. The feeling of no power lasts for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then the car downshifts automatically and the RPMs shoot up. Quite dangerous trying to move around quickly in Asian city traffic. I adjusted the kick down cable to make it stiffer, but now the same problem happens at a higher speed and shifting at a higher RPM.
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Vehicle inconsistently/occasionally taking multiple turns of key to start. Then, multiple turns of key with pressing of gas pedal, which has now progress to stalling (three times within one month) immediately after difficulty with starting and when stopped at a light.
Took vehicle to Honda dealership... dealership could not duplicate the problem so replaced...1) coil assembly, ignition2) head assembly, rotor3) cap assembly4) spark plugs
Two days later the problem reoccurred-- two turns to start-up and when placed the car in reverse to back out of my parking space and in the process of moving, the car stalled, but started on the first turn of the key and I drove straight to the dealership.
They now believe it may be the main fuel relay or the fuel pressure regular.
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Automatic with about 75k mils.
Car hesitates when pressing on the gas. I have to reach high speeds at a slow rate. If I want to push the car a bit, it will hesitate a lot around 2-2500 rpm.
Changed coil packs with new plugs. Dealer changed pcv valve changed by dealer, recall.
Car is stage 2 apr, full apr tbe, neuspeed intake, forge DV.
Could it be the MAF sensor, the DV, or cam follower failure?
Let me add, car is having horrible gas mileage.
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I've noticed that my throttle response is pretty weak. Doesn't seem to just go when ya put the pedal down. I mean it goes but not as fast as i think it should. is this how it is on all our cars? kinda seems like it has a hesitation or something. Anything I could do about this?
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I am a first time owner of a 2015 VW Golf TSI and TDI, previously drove an Acura RSX.
I am noticing on both cars, more so in the TSI, that off a dead stop, when I push the gas pedal there is a hesitation/acceleration delay that I am not used to.
Is this normal? I just want to make sure that nothing is wrong with my cars as I am not well versed in this stuff.
Also, if it is normal, what is the cause behind this? and can it be modified to remove this lag?
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My 2003 Elantra has multi spark (quad) electrodes? I have a hesitation on acceleration problem. Also feel resistance when pressing the gas pedal. I am going to change the plugs and wires. Just wondering if the type of plugs may contribute to the problem.
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I have an occasional issue when pressing the gas pedal while stopped or at low speed the car hesitates and slightly kicks. It doesn't seem to happen at high speeds. The auto mechanic I took it to said he is getting a read that it might be the thermostat. My temperature gauge has not moved above normal. The auto guy says they need to start with the thermostat and see where we are with the problem at hand afterward. This does not make sense to me. Maybe the electronic read is right and the thermostat needs replacing, but how can this affect my occasional hesitation problem?
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2001 F150 V8 4.6 Liter... I've been experiencing hesitation when first pressing the gas, stall at idle, RPM fluctuating between 1000 and 500 at idle and loss of acceleration. Had the truck read at autopart store and received a P0402 error and misfire is cylinder 8.
At this point, I've changed the the plug, COP, EGR valve, EGR Valve Solenoid and DPFE sensor and still have the exact same symptoms. I've also changed the plug for cylinders 5,6 & 7 as well. The check engine light is on, went off briefly after changing DPFE sensor, but back within a day.
Given the fact the error code is P0402 and some of the threads I've read, I thought the issue was centered around the EGR system, but I've replaced many of the components.
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My 95 Honda accord 4 cy. vtech, will turn over but not will start, you can try unlimited times and it just cranks, but no fire or start.... UNLESS I wait about 30 seconds first. In this time what happens is, for 15 seconds the usual dash lights are on, including check engine light, at 16 seconds the D4 green transmission light starts to flash rapidly. At 30 seconds the main relay can be heard to finally click in, and the fuel pump whirs and primes the fuel system for 1.5 seconds and immediately the check engine light turns off, the D4 light turns off, and the fuel pump also stops whirring. AT this point, at any time from here on out, (until you turn the car off again) you can turn the key the rest of the way to start, and the engine cranks over and now immediately starts right up!
Sometimes all the above happens just as described, but the D4 transmission position light does not start to flash. Everything else happens the same way and timing and after 30 seconds the car will start. NOTES: a. The obd trouble codes do not flash any codes when the jumper is put in place to read the codes. b. I have removed and checked the main relay, looked ok, and just in case I re-soldered all connections on the main relay board. c.the car drives and shifts fine. d. The time frames are exactly the same every time. Electronically perfectly the same, like the computer finally decides, OK go ahead and work now. Or like the car is attempting by some programmed response to say that something is wrong and needs attention.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 140,000 miles. In the past year we've had major repairs to the car including rebuilding the transmission, fixing things on the steering column, replacing the catalytic converter, waterpump and timing belt, and a complete brake job. We thought we would be good to go for another 3 years on this van. But it continues to have this sporadic problem a few times a week: I will put the car into drive and press the accelerator, but the engine doesn't seem to get any fuel and it feels like the car may die or stall. If I keep my foot on the accelerator, the car will kick in and go after a few seconds.
A couple of times, I pushed down a little bit harder on the accelerator, but it sort of surged or jumped a bit and then got going just fine. My mechanic says this problem has to happen while he's driving it and has it hooked up to a machine or something in order to diagnose it and he is going to charge me more diagnostic fees to hunt for the problem. He says it could be many things. Is there something simple I can check myself in order to fix this before paying more fees? Would a different type of gas, or additives or a simple change of spark plugs be the first thing to try? We're tired of putting money into this van, but we feel we are invested in it now, and want to hang in there.
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