Honda - Accord :: 1998 - Torn Boot On The Front Passenger Side / Grinding Noise
Sep 10, 2011
I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord (automatic) with just over 149,000 miles. In the 5 years since I've owned it it's required little more than some new spark plugs and tune up. I currently drive about 30 miles a week, but starting tomorrow I'll be driving much, much more to a new job. Living in Chicago with awful potholes, salt, and traffic, I'm concerned about what may happen in the near future...
I've been getting a grinding noise on the front driver side for years and have never fixed it and never noticed a change...I know it's the tie rod ends/ball joints. I've been warned that the wheel could come off, and as much as I believe them and don't want this to happen, nothing has ever happened. Is this something to do since there has been no change in symptoms or car performance in a couple years?
Other than that, any tips for keeping the car in good, working order? I do oil changes, but are they really necessary every 3000 miles? I have to make it last as long as possible and actually love the car anyway!
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My wife's car has a grinding type noise (like a key being burnished on a grinding wheel, but lower in pitch). We've had our regular mechanic check the braking system and he finds no irregularities and also says that he didn't see any loose items underneath the engine area. The sound wasn't one of the ones on your excellent 'noises' list, however. The noise comes from the driver side at the front of the car. The car is 2002 Honda Accord LX with 135,000 miles on it. The transmission was replaced under warranty at 70,000 miles.
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When I slam on my brakes there is a grinding noise coming from the front driver side wheel and the smell of rubber. Also when I do a u-turn the same thing happens. I own a 1999 Honda accord v6....
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Have a 2003 Honda Accord with 178K miles on it. Excellent service and maintenance on the car. After this winter (midwest) I notice a creaking sound (like bedsprings) coming from the front end, passenger side. Car also seems rather bouncy on rough roads. Husband check the shocks and struts and says they are fine. What else could it be? Sway bar, ball joints, etc. and estimated cost - will take to a mechanic...
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So I drive a 98 Honda, 118k miles, and for last month I've got a really strange noise coming from my front passenger side wheel. It happens when I apply the brakes, usually at a slow speed, slowing down from something like 30mph to a stop. When slowing down, if I have just a bit of pressure on the brake, the noise seems to go along with the speed of the wheels. It also happens when I accelerate from a stop.
I can only describe it as a kind of creaking noise, almost like it is coming from the spring. Sometimes it sounds a little tinny, sometimes not so much. I don't think its actually in the suspension, because it doesn't make noise if I go over speed bumps or press down on the fender. Brake pads have a good amount of pad left on them.
My hunch is that it might have something to do with the fact that I hardly ever drive anymore, somewhere around 10-20 miles a week, back and forth to the subway essentially (fair amount of time driving down banked turns in a parking garage if that adds any info). My dad knows a decent amount about cars, but he isn't sure what is going on, though he thinks it nothing dangerous. Strange wheel noises always make me wary though.
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The other day I noticed some brownish almost chunky looking fluid all over inside the wheel well for the front passenger side wheel. Doing some research it seems like it's probably a CV boot leak because that's where most of the fluid is concentrated. I took a few pictures. I just wanna know if this is serious???
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I just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
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2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
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I have an 06 gs300 awd. My left front axle boot is torn wide open. I've called multiple parts stores, looked online. And I can't seem to find one anywhere but the dealer. I have found one for gs350. So my question is will that one work in my gs300? What is the part number from the dealer is different between 06 and 07?
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I have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
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I had my first car 3 months and every thing was going fine, this afternoon I was leaving the motorway and heard a grinding noise in the front passenger side. There are marks in the disc but the pad looks like it has enough meat on it. What is the problem? The driver's side is fine no noise. There is a bit of a lip on the disc so I think it would need changing soon but it's not that bad.
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I've had a grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, sounds like the wheel area of the car, for many months. I've driven thousands of miles on it like this, mostly because I'm broke and the car otherwise runs fine, but also because when I've taken it to mechanics, they are stumped.
I took it to a shop about a year ago and he had it for a week, had different specialists look at it and ruled out anything mechanical (wheel bearing, etc.) In the end, he threw up his hands and didn't want to give me any more free labor for his non-diagnosis, and thought he ruled out everything but the transmission. I took it to a transmission shop recently, and the guy ruled out right away that it was the transmission. He tried to diagnose the problem and was stumped too.
Here's what it is doing. It makes a grinding noise around the front passenger wheel when I accelerate. Only when I accelerate. It seems to be more active when it is cold, and after I've been driving the car for about an hour or so, it goes away. It used to only really happen when taking right-hand turns, and that is still when it is at its worst, but now it does it anytime. However--some days it is very bad and some days very light. One day--of course the day I designated to take it to the shop--it stopped altogether and drove like new. Just until I got it home. It is worse in low gears, and used to only happen in first, second and third, but now on an active day I can hear it on the interstate in fifth gear.
The shops I've taken it to can't seem to figure out what it is. Reading threads online, I've learned that people with similar problems found the problem was a bad passenger side motor mount. I have the car at a new shop right now, and I asked them to replace the motor mount, even though it looks fine. I had a long talk with the mechanic there today and he seemed a bit skeptical, but thought it was a possible solution.
Should I spend the money on a motor mount even if it looks okay? (I've also read that the Focus mounts look fine from the exterior when they are bad because they have a gel interior that busts). Especially if this doesn't work, I'm going to be back at square... um, zero.
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2005 ford f150 Fx4 So last Friday I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger side front of my truck. sounded like metal on metal. So I started rooting around and noticed that bottom ball joints were shot. so replaced bottom ball joints on both side. I aslo replaced wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides, still heard the grinding. So I noticed that both axles were slinging grease, so I replaced them on both sides.
Still heard the grinding noise. So then I removed everything from the passenger side and noticed that the locking hub actuator was grinding both axle and the wheel bearing hub. So I just got done replacing that on the passenger side, put it all back together, and still grinding noise ringtones free. Also replaced the 4wd solenoid that they said gets water in it, and I replaced the check valve. And I put new Rotors and breaks. What it could be?
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My 2015 Gs 350 F sport started making grinding noise from the front passanger side wheel. The noise comes from driving and not braking so im assuming its not the brake pads and its not squeaking noises as a worn out brake will sound.
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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I owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic Si with a clicking noise that appears to be emanating from the front passenger side. It appears to be "rotational" in nature. This noise is very similar to that one might hear when a CV joint is going out but it's heard when going forward. My mechanic (whom I trust) has been unable to fix this problem. Over the course of approximately 4 months they've:
1. Repacked the wheel bearings on both front wheels.
2. Replaced the strut mount
3. Replaced the carrier bearing with a used one.
4. Verified that all brakes are tight and working properly, and 5. Replaced the axle 4 times with both new and rebuilt versions.
Some things I've noticed:
1. The noise might not appear until the car is warmed up a bit, that is, driven 10 to 20 miles
2. It goes away when I apply the brakes but comes back immediately.
3. It occurs even when the engine is turned off and I'm coasting down a slight slope. My mechanic is unsure how to proceed and the noise is driving me crazy.
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There is an intermittent “Thunk Ah” noise coming from what appears to be the front passenger side of my ’97 CRV. Occurs while driving slow or fast, on turns or while driving straight. No vibrations felt, no shaking or movement of steering wheel, CRV drives straight even when hands are off steering wheel. Noise can happen on smooth or bumpy road but bumps will not always create the noise. When CRV was on the lift the mechanic found problems with right strut and left tie rod end – both front struts were replaced along with the left tie rod end and then an alignment was done.
After this CRV continues to make the noise. I always back into my driveway, which is on a slight incline, and park level in my carport with the wheels turned to the left. Twice, within the last week, I parked with the wheels turned to the right. I found that when I parked this way with the wheels turned to the right, I couldn’t get the CRV to produce the “Thunk Ah” noise until later in the day after driving and then parking at work. Mechanics are stumped and don’t know what else to explore.
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord (automatic) with 128k miles.
I've been having some strange grinding noises coming from the front while driving. It started off a couple of weeks ago as a very low (only some people could even hear it) humming kind of noise. It suddenly got worse one weekend and has now evolved into a louder, clearer grinding sound. Thought it was a wheel bearing, but the shop says it isn't. They think it might be the transmission. Here are some more details and a youtube video of the sound below:
-When accelerating, you can hear a low rhythmic humming, if anything.
-When coasting (not accelerating or braking), especially at speeds below 30 MPH, it makes a much clearer grinding noise that is still very rhythmic.
-When accelerating or braking, the sound goes away or is much lower and less noticeable.
-Appears to be speed dependent and not based on RPM.
-The noise is present when shifting into neutral while moving but not in park or reverse.
Here's a video of the sound: [URL] ..... It's filmed with my phone so it isn't great but you can probably hear it using headphones at a relatively loud volume. You can hear the low thumping/humming a little before 10 seconds in. You can hear the grinding noise from :11 seconds until the end (I'm decelerating), with it most audible after :20.
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