Honda - Accord :: 1998 - Power Door Locks Aren't Working
Mar 5, 2004
Since yesterday the power door locks on my '98 Accord LX (Sedan) are not working. I noticed that it happened after I started the car and it died on me. I tried it again but this time with my foot on accelerator and it started fine. I started driving and then noticed the locks weren't operational. They were fine before this episode.
- When I press the power door lock button on driver or passenger side nothing happens (usually it locks all four doors)
- Manaul locking is fine
- When I lock the car with key it doesn't lock all the door (it only locks the door I'm at - driver or passenger). This is supposed to lock all doors too.
I looked at the interior fuse box on Passenger side and the door locks fuse looks ok (#12). I also swapped it with passenger side power window fuse and the window still worked so I guess it's fine. what I can look at next? I read the the actuator might be a problem (I don't know what it is but I'm willing to give it a shot). Looking at Honda Manual looks like there are multiple actuators (one per door I think) and it doesn't feel like everything would conk off together.
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I have a 1998 Honda CRV and the power locks stop working. I have tried both remotes and neither remote works. The control on the drivers side door doesn't work either. The back door doesn't work either via the remote only by pushing the button inside. In order to lock the car, I have to use the key.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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THE PROBLEM: The Power Locks, Trunk Release and Power Windows Lock on my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis have stopped working altogether. They don't work with either the key remote or the actual control panel in the car itself. So the only way to open the car or trunk is the old fashioned way, with the key. SO FAR...I've tried replacing the fuse - a 20 Amp CB - on the fuse panel, but it had no effect. What's my next step?
A LITTLE BACKGROUND: Recently a different key remote stopped working for this same issue. I tried replacing the battery in the key remote, but it had no effect. So I began using my spare key remote and it worked fine for about a week. But during this time the control panel in the car still worked properly. Now nothing works. Not sure if the other remote's issue was related or not to what's wrong now.
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Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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So I've got a 2010 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently the door locks on all the doors but the driver door have become weak. In that when you hit the lock or unlock button they may or may not fully lock/unlock. And if you listen they sound like motors that are not getting enough power. I had the battery and alternator checked and they both come back fine. Initially I thought it was just the passenger door but after more investigation it seems to be all but the drivers door.
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Power door locks on my 2001 Aurrora have stopped working. It seemed to progress. First the rear door locks didn't work, now the rear and passenger door locks won't open or close with key fob or power switch on doors. I can still operate the door latches manually with the door lock lever. Also the interior lights and power windows to these same doors don't work. I examined the fuses under the rear seat and found nothing blown. What controls all these devices? The driver door operates as normal.
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I have a 2000 Taurus and recently the power windows and power locks stopped working. They won't work from any door switch but when I use the key fob to unlock or lock the car the locks will work. However, the windows won't work from any door switch. I didn't see a fuse marked for the windows or locks.
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I have a 2003 jetta GLI (vr6 6 speed) that i received from a friend because of some body damage to the doors mainly. so i replaced the doors with some from a 2001 jetta glx, but the power windows don't work with the switches inside the car. However, when I put the key in the door and turn it, all of the windows will go up and down...(So the motors are good and they are getting power) the door locks, gas cap lid, trunk, sunroof all work and the interior lights work as well.
So i researched it and everyone said fuse #14 or ccm... so i replaced the fuse.... multiple times now just to make sure... After that didn't work, i bought a new ccm with the same part #. that didn't work at all... still same problems... I was wondering if maybe the new doors are or aren't CAN-BUS? if that even matters?
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So on my 2001 excursion v10 my power door locks won't work. The 30amp fuse under the hood is blown and originally thought it was simply the fuse. No biggie picked up a new fuse... yay it works! Well it did for 2 locks and 2 unlocks then blown. So after reading I suspected it was the resistor inside the door lock actuator. So I did the free mod (taking them all apart and using foil instead of a resistor) got done last night popped in a new fuse... 2 locks 2 unlocks and a blown fuse. So I feel like I wasted a bunch of time doing the resistor mod but whatever,and now im back where I started. So right before this problem started originally one of my boys was messing with the number pad on the driver door. Not sure if its related just thought I'd put that in for out there.
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Noticed this afternoon that as it got dark outside, all dash and door lights aren't working.
The gauge cluster lights, VERY dimly, but delays by appx 2 seconds before coming on? Only switch light that still works right is the Red ring on the Headlight switch.
Again this is all lights, except lights in headliner work fine, gauge cluster lights very dimly with a delay?
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I've searched the inter tubes, trying to find out if there is a fuse or relay or even circuit breaker that needs replacing. From all I've checked, I can't find a fuse, relay or circuit breaker labeled to control window and door locks.all 4 windows don't work (with exception to front passenger window occasionally goes down but not up.)finally figured i should have come to this fine forum first! (especially after hearing 'car talk' today)some other pages with similar questions had answers referring to fuse #12 or relay F (mine aren't identified that way). I'm heading out to get a test light -- just so i can see if i can test anything...
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So I've got this 1992 Ranger extended cab with power door locks and neither side is working. It has power windows too and they work fine. I checked the 30amp fuse under the hood for the power door locks and it's good and checked it with a test light and it's good. What's most likely the cause that both sides don't work? Is there a way to troubleshoot with a test light to trace down the problem as a bad switch or actuator?
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My newly purchased 1999 b5 passat wont lock/unlock with the key. The key does nothing and i dont have the flip key, i want to get a new flip key from the dealer but i am unsure if they can code it to my car if the lock dosent work i took the door panel off but didnt want to take off the inner metal skin to figure it out.
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew, 4wd. The power door locks stopped working the other day and I am trying to fix it. So far I have checked the fuse in the power distribution box, good. I have checked the wires from the doors to the cab along the door sills to the rear doors , all good. I did find a couple of iffy grounds on the left kick panel and cleaned and repaired them. I am having a heck of a time finding the group of relays that control the lock and unlock functions. Remember , I have no power lock function at all. I would swear its not getting power to the relays but until I find them , I just don't know. Where they are supposed to be?
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I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
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1997 Ford Expedition 4x4
When I push the switch for the drivers window I can hear the relay in the fuse block make a click but window doesn't move. If I push the switch for any other window (on the drivers door or any other door) no click at the relay and no window movement. I've swapped the relay with other relays in the fuse block but nothing changed.
I've tested the driver side window motor by running 12 volts directly and the motor works fine. When I press the PDL switch I hear a buzzing sound coming from the passenger floor area behind the glove box but the locks do not go up or down. I started the truck and when I put it in gear I can hear the PW relay in the fuse block clicking repeatedly. Put the truck in Park & the clicking stops.
I was told (on another forum) that the problem is most likely my GEM module. Bought a used 1 on eBay and installed it today but nothing changed.
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2006 F150 5.4 2WD extended cab tow package 24k miles
My power windows have stopped working from all locations. I checked and the fuses are good. I can no longer use the exterior keypad to unlock the truck, yet my remote keyring switch will electronically open both driver and passenger doors. Neither driver's nor passenger's interior door switches work.
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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I have a 2013 Honda Accord that 3 times over the last 30 days the power steering has quit working while making a left or right turn from a stop. Once I muscle the car out of the intersection, I can turn it off and then restart the engine which seems to reset the steering. All 3 times I have taken it back to the Honda service center of the dealer where I purchased it, and all 3 times they can find absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Honda's policy is that they won't fix/replace anything unless they have a direct problem to fix. This is getting frustrating because I consider it a safety issue. Now I don't know what to do. They refuse to do anything until they can see the car with the issue. If it ever happens at a time when I can leave it running and have them send a tow truck to pick it up, I will. But that could take months, years or never.
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