Honda - Accord :: 1998 - Engine Seems To Throttle A Bit Then Stops
Jan 11, 2012
I have a 1998 Honda accord with 4 cyl. engine. Recently, the engine would stop at then end of the first block after 8 hours or longer of parking. I am very light on the gas pedal. I generally release the gas and let it roll for a couple of seconds before applying the brakes at the stop sign and during the time, the engine seem to throttle a bit then stops. After a restart and applying gas, it seem fine. What can be wrong with it?
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
View 5 Replies
Out of nowhere my check engine light came on bought some oil thought it was low, and i just recently got an oil change. Checked my sparks and it was okay. Couple hours later my car began over heating With engine light still on, and my temperature gauges increased knew something was wrong, filled it with anti freeze to cool it down, continued driving and the issue continued. Bought me a knew sensor, I noticed it worked but did not fix the issue, my car continues to over heat, couple days later without driving it, this morning on my way to work it was really cold so my car did not overheat, but my check engine light began blinking and my vehicle began rattling from my house all the way to work, for about 9 miles. Whats wrong with it? Is it safe to drive back home after work.??
View 19 Replies
I have a 1998 Honda Accord with about 170k miles on it. Lately, I've noticed that the temperature gauge creeps up to about 3/4 of the way to max when I'm driving in heavy traffic and running the air conditioner. This is the only time it goes past the midpoint, and it usually starts going up after maybe 15-20mn of sitting in traffic. If I turn the A/C off, the temperature immediately starts going back down to normal. Also, when traffic is flowing at normal speeds, I can have the a/c on for hours with no issues. The air conditioning itself is also pretty ineffective in heavy traffic situations. It gets very cold when I'm moving at a decent speed, but is pretty weak at low speeds. I just had the radiator replaced about six months ago, and it doesn't seem to be a coolant issue. What the issue could be?
View 11 Replies
I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
View 2 Replies
My 1992 Accord driver side window goes down fine. But when you go up, it stops about ever 3 or 4 inches. You hit the button up and it wont do anything. Then you push up on it with your hands and it makes a *CLICK* noise. Then you hit the button up again, and it goes up another 3 or 4 inches. And you just repeat that until it goes up. Any clue what the problem is. I tried to get into it so i could try to investigate, but i had some probs gettin to it. I had the door panel off, disconnected the door handle mechanism and all that. Can i get any deeper than that? is there another sheet metal panel that can be removed?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2009 Honda accord ex coupe and the Ac works fine when I'm driving but once I stop it stops and the air starts to get warmer but if I rev it at a red light the Ac starts to work and I have nice cold air. Both radiator and condenser fan work and are spinning and the same time when the Ac is on. The compressor will cycle on and off at idle but it will turn on for maybe two seconds. And turn off but if I have someone rev the engine it will kick on and stay on at about 1500rpm and the Ac works normally I have no leaks.
View 6 Replies
1999 Honda Accord, about 200k miles, no start, the problem is spark. What I'm trying to figure out is why I don't have enough spark. I'll upload a video soon, but right now I'll just have to describe it: When cranking I get a few bursts of orange spark but then the spark stops. I can keep cranking for 2, 3, 4 seconds, but I won't get more spark. Tested at the coil, as well. There's a longer burst of initial spark there, but ends the same.
No check engine light (with key on, obvs. can't do it with engine running). Brand new distributor in the car.
Key Immobilizer light is not on. (I've read the immobilizer can get flaky. Appears to be working normally on this car.)
Ignition switch has been tested and is working normally. Battery has been fully charged.
I haven't tested the starter motor, maybe I should look at that? It seems to be getting slower. (Been working on this car awhile; cranking it a lot.) [Ok, just checked an Eric the Car Guy video - "if the engine cranks at all, it isn't the starter." ]
View 19 Replies
My car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
View 1 Replies
1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
View 3 Replies
While driving on the highway, the cruise control shuts off and the speedometer stops working. Check engine light comes on. Car continues to run fine.
Five days later, I start the car and the following do not work: clock, intermittent wipers, neutral safety switch, tachometer, temperature gauge, gear indicator lights, rear defrost, windows, and I believe that is all. Car runs and drives fine. Other electrical items working. I check all fuses and only find one burned out - (#1, inside, labeled 'back up lights' meter lights) I replace the fuse and it blows when I start the car again. Take the car to AutoZone and they put it on their computer and it shows one code - P0501 - CVT speed sensor.
Two days later, the car will not start. Turns over strong, but will not start. I have checked the grounds on the transmission and body and they appear to be fine. Battery cables, also.
View 4 Replies
So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
View 4 Replies
We have a 98 Honda Civic that recently developed a problem with the throttle getting stuck open. With the engine off, the throttle will return to the idle position. However, with the engine is running, when the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine revs increase, but then do not decrease when the pedal is let off. The same thing happens when the throttle is manually opened (not using the cable) with the engine running. The valve for the air intake doe not seem particularly dirty. I cleaned the spring assembly which I initially thought was the problem. The car is sitting the the driveway with both of us moderately terrified of driving it?
View 12 Replies
My accord 1998 only start when it is warm (between 12:00 and 3:00). I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, and fuse. but it is still the doing the same thing.
View 4 Replies
08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
View 10 Replies
I have a 98 Honda Accord, automatic, with a 3.0 VTEC engine with 189,350 miles. It was diagnosed with cod P0401: EGR insufficient flow detected.I was told and apparently in the instructions it states the following to repair/fix the problem:
Unplug the EGR Port in the Intake, remove upper portion of Intake Manifold, drill EGR port, install Sleeve and replace EGR Valve. Instructions also indicated I need a EGR Pipe kit: 06175 P8L-A00 which contains a special tool to drill manifold and install Sleeve: Kit 07ZAO-P8AA000.
Is this a easy job? I'm also confused about needing the special tool (I believe it's a drill bit) and drilling the port. Are either one of these two Kits I mentioned really needed? What do you recommend I use to clean the port? I thought I could just clean the port (hole) and replace the manifold gasket.
View 9 Replies
I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
View 1 Replies
My 98 honda v6 accord shifts hard sometimes when going into and out of low gears. The transmission guy told me it had to do with the material that was on the clutches wearing off, dislodging, and clogging things. I have been driving the car for several years as is. Should I have the tranny rebuild or keep driving? Am I making matters worse by driving it as is?
View 6 Replies
In the last 2 weeks my 98 Honda Accord has started to hesitate when you start it up in the morning (or the first time for the day). It only hesitates for 2-3 seconds and catches and starts up fine the rest of the day. I know it's not the battery the battery is less than 2 years old and the battery plugs have been replaced recently as well. There is no check engine light flashing or anything saying there is a problem. What it might be? I can clarify that it isn't making the noise you'd associate with the battery being dead (trust me, I've been in the car with a dead battery and will never forget it!).
View 16 Replies
Two years ago, I purchased a 1998 Honda Accord LX from a local dealer. I've had very few issues with it. However, shortly after I moved from Michigan to Florida, I began to notice a strange issue with my car. While the car is running and the engine is idling, I lose AC inside the car and the engine heat slowly begins to build.
The AC isn't shutting off, but instead blowing out warm air. The engine heat builds at a concerning enough rate, moving from a normal level to almost maxing out the gauge in the span of 20-30 minutes. This issue seems to auto-correct itself while the car is in motion, with the AC putting out nice, cool air and the engine heat staying at a normal level.
The car currently has about 269,000 Miles on it. I have been told the problem is likely a faulty thermostat, but I'd like a second opinion. What might be wrong with my car?
View 2 Replies
My 93 previa recently went in for brakes, shocks, and tune up. 320,000 miles original owner. Afterwards it ran rough. The o2 sensor needed replacing. When I got it back it ran rough. Mechanic assured me it just needed a little time. It has the following issues:Left front would shudder like an out of balance tire between 50-70. Replaced tire. Now it hesitates and stutters at 70. Feels like its choking out. Won't climb hills without shifting a lot. No pick up. Gets 12 miles to the gallon instead of 20. First three minutes of driving are okay, after that it rides terrible. I have him looking at it now. He swears it is just because it's old.
View 19 Replies
