Honda - Accord :: 1997 - Oil Leak Behind Timing Belt Cover?
Nov 21, 2013
I have a 97 Honda Accord with V Tec engine, 2.2L. I have an oil leak that is coming from BEHIND the timing belt cover. I removed the cover and the belts to expose several seals. The oil leak is quite extensive and leaves a good puddle after running the engine, however, it will not leak once I clean up the mess, put the car up on jack stands and disassemble the engine. I cannot tell which seal is leaking and am wondering how to tell which seal is leaking. Is there a way to apply pressure to the engine with air, possibly through the oil dipstick hole to possibly expose the leaking seal?
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I took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly. When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage.
This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later. The dealer says I need to change a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I'm having difficulty evaluating the best course of action. What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?
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My serp belt squeaks due to contamination due to timing cover leak. I removed belt and cleaned it with mild degreaser solution and it was quiet for 1 day. If I had 100% water in cooling system, would any more leakage cause a belt squeak? I am putting off fixing timing cover gasket since it is a 5hr job. Coolant is @ 90% water concentration now.
Taurus 3.0 Vulcan motor.
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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1999 Honda Accord EX, 224K miles, 4 cylinder. Timing belt broke yesterday and ruined some exhaust valves. Also needs new radiator. Should I spend quoted approx $3500 for fixed cylinder head and valves, 30K mile check (plugs, valve adj etc), new radiator, might also include piston rings, not sure? Completely trust the mechanic. Other recent work already done is one new front wheel bearing and axle, new bearing boots on both sides, oxygen sensor, new clutch a year ago. Interior/exterior are in good shape. How many more miles am I likely to get on this engine if I have the work done? Will I likely need ball joints replaced soon? Anything else I should be considering?
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 with 101,000 miles - I am the second owner and the car was meticulously maintained and garage kept by the original owners. I need to have the timing belt replaced and am wondering if I should have the water pump and/or other parts replaced during this repair? Economic prudence is of the essence.
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I have a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 110k miles on it. It used to be very quite and drives smoothly. I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Right after i got my car back from my mechanic, the driving felt differently. Two main problems, first, every time I stop at red lights or traffic, the car vibrates and you can feel it from the steering wheel. Second, when I start to accelerate and when engine is over 2100 rpm, the engine becomes much louder than before, I feel like I am driving a race car. Other than these two problems, the can seems to drive fine. I took it back and they told me this is normal and takes time to settle down. Is this normal after the time belt change or what might have gone wrong?
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Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
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I have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
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I understand the TSB for this issue relates to 2005 and 2006 model Avalons. what's your best guess in terms of how common the timing cover oil leak problem is on '05s and '06s? 20%? 80%?
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Was told my Sonata has a leak at the Timing Cover Gasket by two different service stations. Took it to the Hyundai Dealership and they said they would need to pull the engine out to fix it and it would take a couple of days. I read on a couple of other posts that people were able to replace the timing cover gasket themselves. So, I don't understand why the Dealership said the engine would need to be pulled, but I'm reading others say they fixed it without pulling the engine. Am I missing something...? I'd rather not have the engine pulled out if it doesn't need to be.
2008 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L 2359 CC L4 DOHC 16 Valve.
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I went in today for a factor recall on my 2006 Toyota Corolla and when I was leaving I was told that my car needs to have the timing cover resealed. Additionally, the Drive belt is cracked and it was recommended to me to get a new belt. My air filter is dirty, I need manual transmission service, Fuel injection service, Fuel induction service and an AC refresh.
Being a college student I wanted to get some feedback on some of the stuff I could do myself. I already change my own motor oil and oil filter and anything I could do myself from the above recommendations from Toyota would really lower the cost.
Also I am not really sure about the timing cover reseal because I have not seen any leaks under my car. It may be that I do not understand what a timing cover leak is. And is this something that I should get fixed right away or can i afford to wait for a while (1 year or longer).
Also what is the difference between a fuel induction service and fuel injection service? Can i do it myself?
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Had our dealer service (non oil change interval) today at 46k miles. Was informed that there is an oil leak from the timing cover seal.
I was told it's not a minor job to remove the timing cover and reseal due to the many labor hours involved. 2 days of work required.
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I have seen this minor oil leak on the left engine side that facing the firewall for sometimes, but just found time to bring to dealer. After some searching on Internet, I suggested to them that it might be leaking from the timing chain cover.
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I had my 2011 on the lift tonight for a quick oil change and tire rotation. The current mileage is 115k. During the inspection, I discovered that I had a small timing cover oil leak.
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I was changing my mom's oil at work today. I noticed her timing chain cover is leaking. Is this just an isolated occurrence? It seems to be right where the FIPG mates the timing cover to the cylinder head. It also seems right below the tensioner. However the tensioner is bone dry.
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My truck has had this annoying tendency to drink coolant. I believe I took care of it by replacing the thermostat gasket. Not so, it drinks about a quart every 50 miles - so quite a bit really.
Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer so that they could figure out where the coolant was going.
Answer I got back was - timing cover gasket, water pump, lower radiator hose.
The water pump appears to be good, its just the gasket that's bad. So my question is - how significant is the timing chain cover leak? Poking around online it appears to be reasonably common, but sounds very expensive. The dealer indicated it would be 2 days work minimum.
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Over the summer my car started having oil drips under it and it ended up being the valve cover gasket, so I replaced it. I noticed the half circle gasket next to the cam chain tensioner gasket was missing, so I just jammed it in there (didn't have tools/time to get cam chain gasket replaced). Before I changed these gaskets, oil would drip on the back side of the motor (farther from the front). Today I noticed drips of oil in front of the engine. Looking around there is oil in the timing belt area and is dripping down from there. It doesn't look like the VC gasket is leaking.
My question, what would cause oil to drip into/from the TB area?
engine = 1.8t ATW longitude
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I have a coolant leak from behind my timing cover found while doing a coolant system pressure test. I do not want to remove the engine. Looking for info on successful cover install with the engine still in the truck?
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My 2003' Explorer XLT (4.0L V6) has an oil leak. I tracked it down to the passenger side, rear, bolt head on the valve cover (back by firewall). I took it to a guy who replaced the valve cover gaskets, but it is still leaking. He claimed when he had the cover off he looked for any cracks on it, but did not see any at the time.
Anyways, I was searching around and found several explorers leaking in or around the same area of the valve cover. And it turned out that there issue stemmed from bad timing chain guides, causing the valve cover to crack.
I do notice that on a cold start, I hear a rattling when I first start it up. It rattles for maybe that first 1-2 seconds when starting. Is this my timing chain rattling around? If that is the case, how much this could set a guy back on repairs?
I guess I don't know whether to just replace the valve cover, or if I should dig into it to see if the real issue is the timing chain guides/tensioner. Mileage is approximately 121,000....
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I have 2000 V6 3.0 Ranger and it has sprung a small coolant leak from timing chain cover gasket. I think just few drips after driving a while since I don't see significant drop in coolant level (Took a month to notice level dropped in reservoir) and did not see an active leak while idling. No water in the oil.
The proper repair would be to replace the gasket, but for the age and condition of the truck, I don't think it is worth it. Searching for a cheaper solution, I found K-Seal and see lots of reviews with success. Will it damage the cooling system in anyway? I think it would be worth a try even if it doesn't fix the leak as long as it does not cause any harm.
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