Honda - Accord :: 1997 - Loose Spark Plug Wire
Apr 27, 2011
I took a long trip this last weekend and before the return trip I checked the oil and realized I need some. I put two quarts which brought the level just about even with the top mark on the dipstick. the return trip was fine. Next morning I started the car and right away notice that the engine was misfiring. I checked the spark plugs and noticed that one of them was loose and had some oil in it. I checked the oil and now it showed the level to be well above the top mark on the dipstick. Could too much oil cause the spark plug to get dirty, get loose and misfire? This car is a 1997 and has 206,000 miles. This is the first time this has happened. Could the same thing happend with a 1999 Honda Civic?
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The rear spark plug boot, the kind that goes down into the center of the engine, pops up about a quarter inch every so often. I have switched the boots and cleaned the walls of the plug area and it pops up on the rear cylinder only. This is a 2002 Passat 4 cylinder Turbo with 163,000 miles on it.
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Went to change the plugs on an 02 f350, the bolt holding the plug wire boot on doesn't seem to fit any standard size socket. 7 is too big, 6 is too small. 1/4 is too small, 9/32 is too big.
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I'm trying to replace the spark plugs of my 2006 Prius, but the deep well 5/8 socket attached to a 2 in extender just turns loose, as if it does not fit in the top of the spark plug. I tried also 3/4 and 13/16 but those don't even fit in the spark plug well. I tried in another spark plug to the same result. Problem to replace to spark plugs?
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My 2004 honda civic hybrid has 8 spark plugs. The ones in the back of the motor look like they get much hotter and both times I have replaced them, all four in the back were really really loose.
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My car suddenly looses power without any warning. I have taken it to the Honda dealer on a few occasions. There was a recall on the ignition chamber a few years back it happened again a few times after. Took it back they replaced the ignition chamber again about 8 months ago or so, and just today died again. They have done diagnostic on the car and cant find anything wrong. Its so scary because all of a sudden just shuts down. The radio stays on, the door lights show that they are open the steering wheel locks so I cant even pull over to the side of the road. Just stops dead. It seems that most of times that this has happened has been while driving at a pretty low speed( I don't know if that has anything to do with it)? MY car is a 2001 Honda Accord Ex with 80k miles
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I just took my car in to have my tires balanced and rotated, and the tire place said my front left wheel bearing is coming loose. The guy said it isn't dangerous, and that I'll eventually hear a rumbling sound. I'm wondering if this is a fair price for the repair, and how soon I need to take care of this. Also, at some point I'm going to need to have my front rotors turned/replaced, but my brother said I don't need brake pads yet. Since I'm fairly clueless about this stuff, I'm wondering if I should deal with the rotors at the same time as the wheel bearing, or wait until the brake pads need to be replaced.
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I have a 1993 Honda Accord(4cyl) w/ 257,000 miles and I have a problem. When driving, it will intermittently act as if it is either running out of gas or has no spark and sputter and putt and have no power. This will go on for a bit and at times when the engine is at lower RPM's or load it will run a bit longer; however, in the end it will die and I'll find myself on the side of the road. It will not start again. I can crank it until the battery dies. The really confusing thing is that after it sits for anywhere from 2 hrs to a day, it will start up and run again for a week or two or a couple hundred miles. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignitor, distributor cap and rotor(not the whole distributor), coil and wires, checked and replaced all fuses.
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I drive a 96 honda accord and my dad just got a 2003 VW golf and when i drive it it feels weird. When i hit the gas on my accord its solid and hard but when i hit the gas on the VW golf it feels loose i can hit the bottom of the car in the gas and it wont make any reaction.
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1999 Honda Accord, about 200k miles, no start, the problem is spark. What I'm trying to figure out is why I don't have enough spark. I'll upload a video soon, but right now I'll just have to describe it: When cranking I get a few bursts of orange spark but then the spark stops. I can keep cranking for 2, 3, 4 seconds, but I won't get more spark. Tested at the coil, as well. There's a longer burst of initial spark there, but ends the same.
No check engine light (with key on, obvs. can't do it with engine running). Brand new distributor in the car.
Key Immobilizer light is not on. (I've read the immobilizer can get flaky. Appears to be working normally on this car.)
Ignition switch has been tested and is working normally. Battery has been fully charged.
I haven't tested the starter motor, maybe I should look at that? It seems to be getting slower. (Been working on this car awhile; cranking it a lot.) [Ok, just checked an Eric the Car Guy video - "if the engine cranks at all, it isn't the starter." ]
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My 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
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I have a 1997 F150 4.6 V8 and as we all know these trucks are notorious for the spark plug blowing out. Although when I bought it I never had an issue until we put motorcraft plugs in. After a couple weeks of having these plugs in the porcelain blew out of the plug with the threads still in the head. The spark plug screws into a threaded insert which then screws into the head. We replaced the plug and nearly a month later the porcelain blew again. Replaced it, same story a week and a half later. Before the motorcraft plugs I had autolites in it, and I never had the slightest spark plug blowout problem. Should I just put an autolite in the cylinder that's blowing them?
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I had a plug blowout last Thursday on the freeway. I wasn't sure of what happened with my truck, it was a shutgun going off. I had to towed to my local Firestone.
My truck is a F-150 4.6 2003 with 206,000 miles.
The short of the story, plug #3 blowout. It trashed the coil and I needed a new plug. They used a Helicoli and I have been reading that they shouldn't have used a Helicoli. They should have used a Time-set.
What's wrong with the Helicoli's? Is this fixed going to last for awhile? They said the helicoli worked well. The truck had 7 NGKs and 1 motorcraft. It has all new motorcrafts now.
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I have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
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1997 f-150, 4.6, 147K miles. This morning I started the truck and the engine light was on. Felt a miss in the engine. Drove 1 mile and back then checked the wires. Found one not firing. Traced it back to the plug. When I pulled the plug boot off I noticed water in the recess, surrounding the plug. Once I blow out the water, I'll checjk the plug but I would like to know if this is a natural occurrence. I thought the boot would prevent water from filling the recess and sitting there. Or does the water just evaporate when the engine gets hot?
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i just purchased an '01 expedition with the 5.4. I was told #5 spark plug blew out. Upon examination, it appears to be #6, second from the front driver side. Anyway, as I was looking, it just didn't look right. There was a spark plug socket stuck in the well, with the plug still in place. How to get the socket out? I can get an extension on it and it will turn, but it's tight. But I can't pull the socket out.
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Okay so I was getting the misfire in cylinder 3 so I pulled the plug out and it had coolant in it. Does that mean it needs a new intake manifold gasket? That is what the guy told me at the parts store. Also can I drive it like this or will it damage the engine?
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I have an 01 f150 with 5.4 triton. This has been great truck, never really had to do anything to it. It has 195k on it. Week or so ago it started running rough. So I replace the plugs and coils. I noticed some of the plug wells had oil in them. Got done and the truck is running like new.
Not sure where the oil is coming from. Not the piston as the plug was dry on the tip and truck not smoking any. I has began using a quart or so between oil changes. I have always changed it every 3k. Is it just time for new motor. Like I said it is running like new.
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I was checking my COPs and the first one I pulled out of my 2002 f150 5.4l had a clearish liquid on the coil boot. I looked down in the spark plug hole and it was filled almost to the top of the spark plug itself. I smelled it and it smelled like gas. Why this would happen and what should be done to fix it?
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I found a leak today on my 2001 Ford F150 Super Crew, 5.4 engine. In the picture, it was leaking to the right of the spark plug, behind the hose. It was bubbling up from the metal. It hasn't been overheating except when I got home and idled with the AC on. What I'm facing?
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My son has a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L V8 that's blown a sparkplug from # 3 cylinder. The plug looks as if struck by lightning and has a burn groove as deep as a kitchen match stem the full length of the threads.
How difficult is an engine swap/change using another 4.6L? Neither of us have extensive mechanical backgrounds but plenty of aptitude.
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