Honda Accord :: 1995 - Alignment Was Out Of Whack
Jan 25, 2013
I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX with around 200k on it's odometer. I recently purchased two new tires. Today, I went to have the front end aligned. I was told that the alignment was so out of whack, that I needed to purchase some sort of "Alignment kit" for them to use. That in itself is going to set me back about $300. Something really seems fishy here. I've never had to have this done before at all on any of my vehicles. So what's the deal? Is this guy trying to rip me a new one? Or is this something I really have to purchase?
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My 95 Accord loses about a qt every 1,000 miles from a loose oil pan. I leave a little mess everywhere I park. I want to replace the pan gasket but can't reach the heads of two 10mm bolts that are partially covered by part of the transmission. How do I get them off? Are those babies actually holding on the pan, or are they not related?
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It usually takes three times of trying to start before it actually completely starts,it starts then immediately stalls usually twice and on the third try it starts right up.
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX station wagon.. The problem is that When I go to turn the car on it cranks but takes a few times times for it to start up (then runs perfect) or even sometimes it won't start up at all but just keeps turning..(this happens every time I turn the car off and go to turn the car on again) I have just recently taken it to a local mechanic and got the fuel injectors changed.. But still the same problem arises.. One day I also went to turn the car off and i took out the key an the car kept running, i had to put the key back in and switch the key back and forth once again for it to finally turn off).
1. Main fuel relay
2. Fuel pump
3. Clogged fuel line or
4. Ignition switch
This car is my main source of transportation as of now!!
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water leaks in under the rear seat when driving in the rain ,no rust spots but allso noticed thair is no mud flaps or any water gards around rear tires?
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Have 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
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My 95 Honda accord with 2.2 v tech suddenly started to SOMETIMES for periods of minuets to many hours, or days, start perfectly and die in 1/2 second. Later it will work fine for a while.
Car ran perfectly until one day it would not start.Turn key on, here fuel pump prime, CEL goes out after a second, then I turn over car and it starts...check engine light goes out... then comes back on a half to a 1/4 second later and car at same time light comes on, stops firing and dies. Dash lights stay on. Restart attempt will NOT give any start at all!..UNTIL you turn key off a second, then try again and it does start and die just as above. Key must be turned to off to get another restart and die. Sequential repeated attempts bring the same result. Walk away, for 15 minuets, or sometimes for hours, or days, and it starts and is fine again, and will restart multiple times in a row,... until you walk away again and come back...at which time it may again do the start and die pattern again. If it is in a start mood, you can drive it hours and it keeps running fine... if you turn it off... it is luck of the draw if it does the no start thing or will start for you and go.
- Main relay clicks in each time, fuel pump primes each time key turned off and back on.
- Keeping key in start does NOT cause motor to continue to fire or check engine light to stay off. Engine still dies in 1/2 second even as starter continues to crank.
- Check engine light is giving a code 15 for electrical issue when check is done.
- Took out main relay and re-soldered the connections on it.... it seems fine.
- Does not seem to be key contacts related to me, wiggle key, mess with key, etc. all you want has no effect. Holding key in start does not keep it running.
- It is almost like the computer kills the car after 1/2 second as it turns on check engine light.
I have seen other threads about this, but no clear answer, often people stop posting before telling what finally fixed it. One example is here:
car starts and dies immediately, then only cranks.
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Here is the issue with my car. It's a 1995 Honda Accord sedan, automatic transmission, inline 4. For the past 6 years or so, when you take a turn at a certain angle and a certain amount of acceleration and a certain amount of speed, it'll make something like a rhythmic grinding sound until you straighten the wheel and escape the turn. It happens far more often on left turns than right turns.
Adding to the oddity, say you are getting ready to take a left turn. Now if you are at a turn where the angle, acceleration and speed necessary to make the sound -- the sound can be completely avoided if you accelerate straight, let go of the accelerator, then use the momentum to turn, let the wheel straighten out to complete the turn, then begin to accelerate again.
A while ago I took it to a major repair center and they took out all the axles and some how concluded that it was the transmission. I really don't understand how it could be that, as the car shifts fine, and the sound never occurs when going straight. This past week, I took it to another mechanic, and he concluded that it was the axle shaft on the left side, maybe the axle shaft on the right.
So I had the left axle shaft replaced. I drove it home and didn't notice it, thought it worked; the mechanic himself drove the car around for hours after and didn't notice anything. Just to be sure, I take the car into a cul-de-sac that has the perfect turn angle to make the sound. Guess what, it's still there, albeit muted a little bit.
I am wondering if it's worth it to fix the other axle shaft, how it's possible that it could be the transmission, or if it's anything else that's possibly wrong. Again, this sound has been going on for years. I am completely frustrated and want it gone. I am thinking about making a video with the sound...
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I have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
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Every time I try to start my 95 Honda Accord, there is a fast clicking sound and the car will not start. All of the interior lights come on, and the car is full of gas, so I'm not quite sure what the problem might be. My car did start before we were hit with all of this snow in MA, but now it's not.Why my car will not start?
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My right upper ball joint on my 1995 Honda Accord Wagon is squeaking loudly. How long can I go before I have to replace it, especially when winter averages in the teens. I drive 250 miles a month in a small town. Can squeak when I go around turns, over bumps.
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I have a 95 honda accord 2.2L, 135,000 miles. One day while sitting at a light the car started vibrating due to a rough idle problem. The idle speed is ok at about 750 rpm.
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I have a 95 Honda Accord V6, the D4 light is flashing and the speedometer needle does not work. When in stop and go traffic, the needle bounces around and makes the car stall and downshift and rev up. I replaced the speed sensor with no change.
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On my 95 Honda Accord 4-door (>400K miles), every time the doors are locked, the servos click 25 to 60 times about once a second. Like a loud ticking clock. The doors are locked OK, but the clicks sound like the mechanism is wearing itself out. Is there an easy fix? It may be related to installation a few weeks ago of a new alarm system that included a remote control lock. I haven't had time to have the alarm company look at it.
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I am trying to install the upper chains on my sentra. The colored links will not align onto the sprocket marks. They are off by a link. I know there are 16 links across the top and 16 links from the exhaust sprocket to the idler sprocket. However, it seems,the camshaft knock pin on the intake sprocket is out of alignment. Both camshafts are a TDC; intake lobe facing up and facing firewall at horizontal, exhaust love up and horizontal facing grill. The exhaust camshaft sprocket is at 1130; the intake VTC knock pin is above the 9 o'clock mark. The Haynes book and other sources, say the knock pin on the intake side should be below the the 9 mark by about 10-11 degrees and for the exhaust side at 12. Do I need to reset the cam shaft? Can it be done without totally screwing everything up?
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My navigation has been all over the place lately. Sometimes it's 50 miles off, 15 miles off, and 5 miles off. Worst of all, the problem is intermittent. It seems to happen a few times a week. Is there a way to do a system reboot?
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I've a 2004 Maxima automatic SL. In early June I had just filled up my tank at gas station and tried to start car. DEAD SILENCE altho dashboard lights came on. Repeat turning key several times to same nothing result. AAA mechanic arrives. Jumps my car to no effect. Tells me he's going to hit my starter and for me to turn ignition. Immediately starts normally. Car starts fine for 2 weeks. Then dead again in a parking lot. AAA mechanic does same thing n car starts up immediately.
I take car to Nissan dealer and he refuses to do anything since car is now working fine and he won't be able to locate problem. I call another dealer and explain situation and he gives me same response. I'm told to have car towed in next time its having problem. Another couple weeks go by and once again comatose after another fillup. I'm curious so this time I tap my starter a few times with the little umbrella I keep in my car as the gas jockey stares at me in disbelief. I get back in car and starts right up.
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My camshafts got moved while replacing tb & wp.v6. Can I get TDC bringing #1 valves closed & #4 valves open & then bring crankshaft the TDC mark? Interference engine, valves not damaged!!!
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'95 Accord with the V-6, automatic. Developed s strange oil leak that appears to be coming from between the block and the plate that the oil filter attaches to. Not leaking from sending unit or filter, leak is on other side of the plate.
Preliminary inspection leads me to believe that I'll have to take the drive belt side of the engine apart to fix properly. No fun, there. Wondering if I can't JB weld it.
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Recently I drove in to a huge puddle of water, and since then my car has not been the same. Two sets of problems started happening almost immediately.
Various functions on the cluster are not working, such as the speedometer (reads zero no matter what speed I go), odometer (remains at 28,787) and the gas meter which fluctuates constantly.
Also, the brake system is just out of whack completely. It simply isn't working well at all. Attached are two pictures of the dashboard.
I went to a local mechanic, and he suggested having the cluster and brake sensors replaced with brand new ones.
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One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
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