Honda - Accord :: 1994 - Brakes Fade Only When AC Is On
May 6, 2011
I have a '94 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder with ABS. The brakes work fine until I press the ac compressor button, then they rapidly begin to fade, letting the pedal go to the floor. When I turn off the ac compressor, the pedal gradually firms up back to normal. If it was the booster, it would be hard to brake, but it's not. If it was the master cylinder, the pedal would be soft all the time as the cups can not magically regenerate when the ac is off. What's the connection with the ac compressor.
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord Ex i went an had a brake booster and brake master cylinder put on my car. About 3 to 4 days later my brakes locked up on me so i had the brakes bleed, a new brake line, and a need ABS pump put on and the brakes are still locking up what is causing this to happen?
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Honda Accord 1994 EX
Problem: over past two weeks (around 200 miles) car's acceleration became less and less effective. Need to rev car to higher and higher rpms to accelerate and shift into higher gears. Now it's hard to get up a hill, in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
I don't have a compression tester.
-Car starts fine. No pings.
-Exhaust blows fine and no smoke.
-Checked for vacuum hose leaks, none at all.
-Spark plugs look fine, there's no oil in spark plug wells.
-No check engine lights. '
-Oil on oil stick normal color.
But ...
-Recently coolant ran low. But engine temperature never shot up.
-Recently (over 2 weeks) oil went from full to near empty. Oil light didn't go on.Lights on my dash work (abs, brake, etc.)
Given loss of coolant and oil, I though it would be blown gasket. But spark plugs and wells look clean, and there's nothing whitish in oil. Maybe coolant and oil loss are due to running car harder to accelerate.
-If cat was clogged, would exhaust blow well? If I drill hole in front of cat, will it run normal? (don't worry, I'll get it changed, or fix it.)
-If fuel pump the problem, wouldn't I hear it on start up?
-If battery and/or battery cable bad, wouldn't car have trouble starting and revving up?
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I noticed my '94 accord LX slipping a bit mainly between 2nd and 3rd gear. I took it to my fairly trusty local (non-chain) mechanic who drove it a little and said he thought trans death was inevitable but he could not estimate when it would happen. Car has only 126K miles. He wanted to re-build it for $1400 (which I hear is reasonable but still an investment in a car this old.) The trans fluid is full (actually a little over the full line) bright red, clean smelling. We had the trans flushed 5 months ago but just found out they used Chevron ATF not Honda. I've read that only Honda fluid should be used, so I want to get that in there. Have not been driving it since the diagnosis. Do you think that there's any chance that switching to the Honda ATF will fix this and full trans rebuild won't be needed? Or if it's slipping is the trans already toast? I've heard some people advise against trans flushes in cars this old, to only drain and re-fill- is this true? If it does have a failing trans is there any way to estimate how long it will last? We are moving to New York in about 6 months and won't need a car, so I'd like to avoid sinking a ton of money on this car, or buying a new one! If it does need a re-build, do you think it's worth it in a car this old?
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How difficult is changing the whole speedometer cluster on a 94 honda accord? Mine has been messed up since i got the car. It stays on 20mph when I turn on the car.
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I noticed the last two winters oil spots show up in the drive and its only when the temputare dips below 30 or so if any warmer its not there.
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Alright, car's overheating, but generally not at under ~55mph or so. When I hit the highway and accelerate, the thermostat climbs and hovers 3/4s of the way to red. But only sometimes. Sometimes, often when I'm going down a hill, it will swings down to normal. Once it's gotten hot, if I take it off the highway and am idling or driving in the 15-40mph range, the temp gauge will spike. But only sometimes. Sometimes I'll hear the fans kick in while it's idling/overheating. The temperature will go back to normal, and then rise again and stay there or spike (seemingly randomly). It's never reached all the way to the red, but it toes the line. And I take the darn thing into the shop and it refuses to overheat.
I've taken the radiator reservoir out and there seems to be green fluid (antifreeze/coolant?) in the water (have flushed it repeatedly)...and over the course of several weeks, the water level itself will go down. Both fans and the thermostat have been replaced in the last 6 months. Additionally, the timing belt and serpentine belt have been replaced within 5 months, as have affected pistons.((S/N--RPMs are really....low? ~2500 @ 75mph? but don't seem to correlate w/temperature. would they effect it?)
I took it into my shop and they said "we ran all the tests and couldn't find anything wrong." Cool? I'm at a loss..
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My 94 accord lx just received a replacement motor and tranny from jdm auto.its from a 95 odyssey. I had to swap throttle bodies, distributor... from the old one cuz the new one didn't have cruise control components, external coil... Now its seems rather gutless and it wont down shift when in d4 or d3 unless I come to complete stop, but sometimes it stays in 4th which sucks at an intersection! Also the shifter moves freely from first to neutral without pressing the button. and of course check engine light is on constantly. I've played with tranny cables fuses are good, reset ecu, fluid is new... every thing seems fine and the tranny that we took out down shifted fine so I must be missing something simple. timing?
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I bought my 1994 Accord LX new and am happy with it and the ~240K miles it has. Recently a very odd problem has emerged that is annoying...
Problem: The power to the radio cuts off now and then but only for a second. This of course always happens when I'm intensely listening to something like Car Talk. I first noticed it about 3 months ago while driving on the highway... whenever I tapped my brake peddle the radio would cut out. NOW the problem happens whenever it wants to...sometimes I go days without any problem, other times I can get a string of 5-10 failures right in a row and then it's "ok".
Here's the REALLY WEIRD thing... about 1:10 times when this happens BOTH the tachometer AND the speedometer cut out too! They drop to ZERO and then when the radio comes back on they pop back up to their proper readings... note nothing happens to the fuel or engine oil pressure gauges. The dashboard failures are what now have me worried.
What Have I done to address it? Nothing yet, not sure what to do... I cannot intentionally recreate the problem. Last time I took it to the mechanic for something else they looked at this but they couldn't recreate it. I'm afraid if I just ask someone to fix this it'll either cause a lot of hours to be racked up with no result or a lot of guesswork replacements.
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My 1994 Honda Accord has just lately had a start up problem. I try to start it, it turns over easily enough, but will not start. Have had a mechanic look at it two or three times but it started for him so he was unable to find the problem. If I keep trying, it sometimes will finally start, but the last time it happened it started to sound like it was running down the battery so I called the mechanic and set up an appt to have it checked. After several hours I tried it again and it started right up again so I canceled the appt. This has happened numerous times just lately and the mechanic cannot find the problem because for some reason it has eventually started each time. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason about why or when this happens and I never know when it is going to do this. I am to the point of hoping that it absolutely will NOT start at all just so the problem can be found.
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I have had my honda for a few months now and have had a few problems in that time. At first it started with the check engine light coming on when heated up but then my car began to randomly die while I'm driving down the road. Every time that it would die I was able to start it back up almost right after it died. Also when I come to a stop my temperature gauge will start to rise and when I turn the car off I can hear the fans continuing to run for about 10 mins. Now my car will drive until it heats up and then it will die and not start back up until it has cooled down. My dad told me that he thought that my main relay went bad but I replaced that and nothing has changed...
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I test-drove a 1994 Honda Accord with 140K today. Looking for reliable car for relative, and this was one of the better options, on paper at least, in the price range.It drove like a used car, but I was concerned about one thing: A ping when accelerating from low speed. It didn't do it constantly, but only when going from a standstill or slowdown back up to speed. The seller said he'd been told it was an issue with the catalytic converter. I've been told that a higher octane fuel will sometimes quell a ping in an engine with no knock sensor.Is this something I should be worried about? Is the high-octane rumor true? The car was otherwise very nicely maintained.
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I changed the transmission (automatic) in a 94 Honda accord EX 4 cylinder and now it delays when starting. What I mean is if you stick the key in and try to start it normally it will just keep turning over. However if you wait about three seconds with the key in the ON posssition it will start right up like normal. Otherwise it drivers normally. I noticed the fuel pump isn't kicking on right away to prime the rail, but I didn't touch the fuel system when I changed the tranny out.
Transmission has the proper amount of OEM Honda fluid. CEL is on but I don't know how to check the codes on this OBD1 vehicle.
I am suspecting either a weak fuel pump or I missed something during installation. I double checked to make sure everything was plugged in properly on tranny.
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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My car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
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I'm replacing the valve cover gasket on my 94 Honda Accord. I've heard all sorts of crazy opinions on what needs to be done while installing the gasket such as using various sealants or lubricants. Should anything be put on the gasket or should I just drop it in and screw the valve cover back on?
I'm also replacing the spark plugs while I'm at it. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord DX 5 speed. As it was turning to 208,000 the odometer froze up. This was in mid April. The speedometer still works but the 2 mileage readings quit. About a week later it began to work for 9 miles, then froze up again. I called 3 mechanics. They said it was the speedometer cluster & that he would need to put a search out for the part because it was a rare part for my car. That was 2 weeks ago. Last week my odometer began working as though nothing happened and has been fine. If and when I ever hear back about the part what should I do? Go ahead and get it fixed or just say "If it ain't broke don't fix it?"
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX AT. Recently, while I am stopped at a Stop Sign or a Red Light, the car will suddenly start moving forward causing me to apply more pressure to the brakes. It also feels that the brake pedal is traveling a lot further now.
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I have a great running 1994 Accord LX with 140k miles, but plan to trade it in within the next 12 months. It has the following two flaws that I'm trying to decide whether or not to repair:
(1) Muffler is rusted out inside (but sound doesn't bother me)
(2) Very minor oil leaks at two different engine gaskets
Should I invest in either of these repairs or just ride it out?
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Sounds like I may have a problem that is not all that uncommon i have a 94 honda accord with 100k miles, runs great, handles great
Just last week I noticed a resonant humming / growling sound coming from the engine - it's very "vocal"it only occurs around 2000 rpm, and is more pronounced when decelerating there's no apparent loss of power or fuel efficiency the sound occurs with or without the transmission engaged and seems to be worse after the car has heated up a bit
Cat converter? Intake manifold?
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My Honda starts missing and dies when I use the brakes. Why?
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