Honda - Accord :: 1994 - Automatic Transmission Started Slipping
Aug 13, 2011
We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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My transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
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I noticed my '94 accord LX slipping a bit mainly between 2nd and 3rd gear. I took it to my fairly trusty local (non-chain) mechanic who drove it a little and said he thought trans death was inevitable but he could not estimate when it would happen. Car has only 126K miles. He wanted to re-build it for $1400 (which I hear is reasonable but still an investment in a car this old.) The trans fluid is full (actually a little over the full line) bright red, clean smelling. We had the trans flushed 5 months ago but just found out they used Chevron ATF not Honda. I've read that only Honda fluid should be used, so I want to get that in there. Have not been driving it since the diagnosis. Do you think that there's any chance that switching to the Honda ATF will fix this and full trans rebuild won't be needed? Or if it's slipping is the trans already toast? I've heard some people advise against trans flushes in cars this old, to only drain and re-fill- is this true? If it does have a failing trans is there any way to estimate how long it will last? We are moving to New York in about 6 months and won't need a car, so I'd like to avoid sinking a ton of money on this car, or buying a new one! If it does need a re-build, do you think it's worth it in a car this old?
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I have an automatic gti/337 , on friday my transmission started slipping , while I would be driving on D the rpm would rev like crazy as if it was on N, I had to decelerate then accelerate in order for it to work. anyways i changed the transmission fluid and still having the same problem.
Ill be taking it to a mechanic tomorrow, but what to expect tomorrow? Its a 2002 two doors gti/337 ...
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My 2004 Accent transmission with 145k miles all of a sudden started slipping while driving. It would be fine until i needed to slow down and then step on the gas again. It wouldn't catch right and it would slip. At first the pull of the slip was very slight and at times now it is very rough. My check engine light does not turn on when it slips slightly, but only when it has a really rough slip will it turn on. I had it checked at the local advance auto parts and i was told it has a 4th gear ratio that is off. The only thing that confuses me is that when i turn the car off and on it resets and works fine, that is until it slips again. If i drive carefully it usually wont slip. Could it be an electrical problem?? I changed my speed sensor when my car had about 132k miles because it went out, i replaced my ignition coils, new spark plugs/wires, tranny oil change, and filter change.
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I was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
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MY 1993 Honda Accord has been having trouble starting a few times and now the transmission is slipping. It has close to 200 Thousand miles.
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We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
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I have a 99 Honda Accord with 172K miles on it. In the last couple months it's started slipping more often than when the problem first started about 4-5ish months ago. It tends to lurch when I start going again from a stopped position and I'm also now noticing it lurching a bit when I go from a slower speed to a faster one while driving...it's more noticeable going from a faster to slower speed when driving. So it tends to lurch most from a stopping position and also when slowing down while going moderate speeds like 40 or 50 mph.
I took it to a shop and they said it's in the begging stages of failure and that I can either rebuild the tranny or drive it until it dies, but that it will die eventually. My question is since it's slipping, is it still ok to drive on longer drives? I was considering driving about 7 hours to see my family in a month or so and I'm not sure if it's worth the risk of driving it that far. I want to buy a new car, but there's more Hondas around where I'm from originally and I just want to get a decent used one since it will cost more to fix the transmission than the car is worth. Thoughts about driving long distances with a slipping transmission????
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I changed the transmission (automatic) in a 94 Honda accord EX 4 cylinder and now it delays when starting. What I mean is if you stick the key in and try to start it normally it will just keep turning over. However if you wait about three seconds with the key in the ON posssition it will start right up like normal. Otherwise it drivers normally. I noticed the fuel pump isn't kicking on right away to prime the rail, but I didn't touch the fuel system when I changed the tranny out.
Transmission has the proper amount of OEM Honda fluid. CEL is on but I don't know how to check the codes on this OBD1 vehicle.
I am suspecting either a weak fuel pump or I missed something during installation. I double checked to make sure everything was plugged in properly on tranny.
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I have a 2003 pilot with 182k miles on it. Just started having tranny slippage after a tranny code and burnt fluid. Changed it and did this for like the next 3000 miles. It began to start slipping between 2,3 so did a complete flush with new fluid and still same problem. Question is should I pursue the new tranny with upgrades or just look for another vehicle.
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I just noticed last night that my transmission was slipping in 3rd gear, it's an automatic. I added just about a quart of transmission fluid today....took a little drive and it still seems to be having the same problem? What might be causing this besides needing to get a new/rebuilt transmission?
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I had a 2013 Elantra that I traded in for my new Accent. The last 6 months that I had my Elantra, the transmission was slipping like crazy. Mostly when it was cold, and at lower speeds. I started noticing this while the car only had 20000 km's on it. Personally, I think it had something to do with contaminants in the fluid. I told the dealership this but they just kind of dismissed it and said it probably just had something to do with the ECU messing up the shift timing or something to that extent. They made an "adjustment" but the problem didn't go away.
It got me thinking that since an automatic transmission has so many parts, wouldn't it be fair to say that metal particles from all these newly machined pieces and edges could have some initial deterioration causing a build-up of contaminants? I think a transmission flush would've resolved the issue. That's a lot cheaper than a full tranny swap down the road while the car is still under warranty, isn't it Hyundai? It's their problem now though.
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My 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
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I have an 04 2.7 litre V6 AWD Santa Fe with 189235 KM , with a Shiftronic transmission, recently, while in "d", the transmission would feel like its slipping or perhaps trying to down shift, its hard to tell what it's doing really, but if you then slapped it over into shiftronic, it would operate fine, no slipping, locks into gear strongly, indicating that its not mechanical, but related to the computer controlling "drive" function of the transmission, I flushed the transmission just after the symptoms arrived (using the correct SP3 fluid) and this made no difference, the old fluid, although ready to be changed, was not burnt or blackend. I thought of getting it reflashed ( read it online) but I am not sure it will work, especially if its like a sensor or something.
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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My 2009 Santa-Fe AWD Limited is sick! Starting from a stop, the vehicle has abrupt shifts with the transmission slipping (RPM revving). Seems worse when cold. Checked the fluids, and found ATF fluid in the engine oil and engine oil in the ATF fluid. Quick internet check suggest a leaky vacuum modulator valve. (There is no way the fluids went in the wrong holes, the vehicle only has 69k kilometers on it, so it still has original ATF fluid, and I recently changed the engine oil myself.) So, do you think this is the correct diagnosis? How hard is it to change the modulator, and where is it located?
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I have a 2002 1.8T tiptronic with around 150k Kms. Recently, the transmission has started slipping, more so when at running temperature than when cold. It feels like when a certain amount of gas is applied is when it starts slipping. It can slip immediately after 3-4 and 4-5 with continued acceleration, or will constantly slip while in 5th if trying to drive at speeds greater than 90 km/h (with very gradual acceleration to that point).
Does this sound like a clutch wear issue requiring a new transmission, or more like a valve body issue?
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Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
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I own a 06 sonata with 95000 miles. Recently I've been having issues with my transmission. It occurs only at slow speed when i travel in first gear. What happens is when the car is moving, it feels like it shifts into neutral but indicator still shows D in the cluster. I press the accelerator nothing happens it just revs,no increase in speed whatsoever.
So that rules out slipping issues. Now i narrowed the problem down a little more whenever the problem crops up i shift the gear lever into sports mode, i feel a jerk and car shifts into first gear and it moves. If i dont shift into sports mode it catches gear in about 7 seconds.No fault codes.
And if i rev it high transmission goes into limp mode and stays in 3rd gear till i restart the car.Then i get P0731 incorrect first ratio.Changed ATF 7000 miles ago. Could it be a faulty range sensor?
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Honda Accord 1994 EX
Problem: over past two weeks (around 200 miles) car's acceleration became less and less effective. Need to rev car to higher and higher rpms to accelerate and shift into higher gears. Now it's hard to get up a hill, in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
I don't have a compression tester.
-Car starts fine. No pings.
-Exhaust blows fine and no smoke.
-Checked for vacuum hose leaks, none at all.
-Spark plugs look fine, there's no oil in spark plug wells.
-No check engine lights. '
-Oil on oil stick normal color.
But ...
-Recently coolant ran low. But engine temperature never shot up.
-Recently (over 2 weeks) oil went from full to near empty. Oil light didn't go on.Lights on my dash work (abs, brake, etc.)
Given loss of coolant and oil, I though it would be blown gasket. But spark plugs and wells look clean, and there's nothing whitish in oil. Maybe coolant and oil loss are due to running car harder to accelerate.
-If cat was clogged, would exhaust blow well? If I drill hole in front of cat, will it run normal? (don't worry, I'll get it changed, or fix it.)
-If fuel pump the problem, wouldn't I hear it on start up?
-If battery and/or battery cable bad, wouldn't car have trouble starting and revving up?
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