I just had the front seals replaced in my 93 accord standard shift wagon. After about 4 days the clutch started feeling "soft" and now it's almost down to the floor in order to engage it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the seal replacement?
View 14 RepliesMY 1993 Honda Accord has been having trouble starting a few times and now the transmission is slipping. It has close to 200 Thousand miles.
View 2 RepliesHonda Accord 93SE, ECU fuse keeps blowing, some one told me to check the relays. Which relays lay in this circuit, I seen another post that found he had the O2 sensor cable touching the manifold.
View 1 Replies93 honda accord cranks but wont start... I replaced the coil,cap and rotor and i still have spark...
View 1 RepliesMy 93 Honda Accord died yesterday after filling up the tank. I was driving about 30 miles an hour, and only made it 4 blocks from the gas station. When I filled up, I didn't "top it off", but I did notice that it needed a lot of gas- about 13 gallons. I don't remember if I fully tightened the cap or not. I was in drive when it died, even though I had my foot on the gas pedal. When it died, the battery and oil light went on; it wouldn't restart, and smelled pretty foul. The engine wasn't over heating- just no power.
Over the past few weeks when the car is in park, the RPM will surge, but it doesn't happen when it is in gear. Other than that and the car stalling on the road, there haven't been any problems with it. I had it towed to a local repair shop that I trust. They looked at the gas to see if it was contaminated, but it came out clean. They said the car started right up, and they didn't find anything wrong with it. I am happy to have a working car, but scared to have it die again in rush hour on my way to work. What happened, or what I could do in the future?
My latest car, 93 Honda Accord, has been my most unreliable car so far but I bought it earlier this year for $800 and it has <75,000 miles on it so I keep fixing it. Last night, after filling up about 30 miles before, I noticed the RPM's shoot down to nothing but then immediately go right back up again. I drove for a couple more miles on the freeway and then it happened again but the RPM did not return to its previous level. Erma (the car) lost power and gradually I steered it off the road as it slowed down. I waited awhile and kept trying to start it up. She sounded peppy (no clicking, squealing or straining) and the lights stayed on but it just wouldn't start. Eventually she started again, after about 15 minutes, and drove home with no problems. I live 45 minutes outside of town (where I work and go to graduate school - poor student card) so I am hoping for some guidance for things to try to make sure it doesnt strand me again, especially more permanently. Seems electrical? I recently, in the last 8 months, replaced the starter and the electric ignition assembly, as well as the brake master cylinder.
View 13 RepliesSo the problem began with the car not wanting to start up. It would usually get going by the second try but after about a week, my '93 Honda Accord would kind of sputter for a second then die except now the check engine light would come on and I would hear this clicking noise from behind the dash. At this point I would turn the car off, remove the key and try again with the result being either: the engine turns over, the same clicking noise happens, or I end up grinding the starter for 10/15 sec.
More recently the problem has extended to while the car is moving. In the past week the engine will suddenly cut out. I could be backing out of my driveway, taking a turn at 5 mph or driving on the highway, and it will suddenly cut out. Sometimes the engine death is preceded by a drop in rpm, and sometime if i can push in the clutch fast enough the car doesn't die. Beyond that I have no clue.
I recently replaced the master relay and the ignition switch. I also had a new timing belt put in by a mechanic only 5k miles ago. At that time he said that it should last me another 50k miles no problem. It's a '93 Honda Accord LX, 4-cylinder manual transmission.
I can't really afford another mechanic visit right now. One friend thought it might be the alternator, and another scoffed at the notion. I know just enough to follow directions and fix what needs to be fixed, but I'm no good at diagnosing car problems.
I have a 1993 Honda Accord(4cyl) w/ 257,000 miles and I have a problem. When driving, it will intermittently act as if it is either running out of gas or has no spark and sputter and putt and have no power. This will go on for a bit and at times when the engine is at lower RPM's or load it will run a bit longer; however, in the end it will die and I'll find myself on the side of the road. It will not start again. I can crank it until the battery dies. The really confusing thing is that after it sits for anywhere from 2 hrs to a day, it will start up and run again for a week or two or a couple hundred miles. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignitor, distributor cap and rotor(not the whole distributor), coil and wires, checked and replaced all fuses.
View 4 RepliesWhen I go to start my car it has a solid red light around park, as it should, but it has a flashing green light around drive also. When this happens my car will not start. I usually try it a few times, wait and try and try again until it finally starts up. Once it starts the drives light is still blinking so I turn the car off and back on, then it is good to go. This does not happen every time, it seem sporadic. The engine, battery and oil light stay on, but I think it may only be because the car is starting up, usually the lights come on when starting then go off once the car is ready. Btw it is a 1993 Honda Accord.
View 1 RepliesMy 1993 Honda accord coupe is kicking In and out of overdrive from 55 mph and up so what's the problem?
View 19 Replies1993 accord my d4 light on the dash is flashing and it wont shift out of park....
View 2 RepliesSo, I just found out that the noise my car has been making is related to the power steering. The mechanic said I need to replace the pump, two belts and the high pressure line. The car is a 1993 Honda Accord LX. I can't afford to have the mechanic fix it, so I'm going to have to do it myself. My questions are:1) how long should it take me? I'm not experienced at all. I was thinking of just doing the high pressure line as a 'warm up' to start. Is half a day wishful thinking? Any tips?
2) The mechanic said the hose is leaking all over the belts. He said it was "squirting and pouring out". I tried to duplicate the squirting by turning the wheel all the way and revving the engine. What I saw was a very small leak at the joint. So small it wasn't falling, but I'm sure it would if I waited long enough. The belts appeared dry to me, but I'm not really sure what they are supposed to look like. The mechanic said that they are getting soaked in fluid and that I might throw a belt. Anyway, so my question is how can I tell if the belts are "soaked in" steering fluid.
3) I've been told that if the belts are getting steering fluid on them they might be responsible for the loud squealing noise when turning. If I clean the belts with degreaser, and the noise stops, does this mean that replacing the leaking hose would be sufficient?
I'm making a long road trip in about a week (ca to wa). I'd prefer to deal with the replacement when I get to wa, but I also don't want to make things worse.
My car started making a loud, high pitched "whooping" and "whining" noise when making corners. The pitch is medium to high and variable. It kind of sounds like wet rubber on glass (like a squeegee). The first time it happened I thought it was a police siren, like when they sound the siren in short bursts "whoop! whoop!". But now the sound is more like a prolonged whine/groan. The sound might be coming from the steering column, but I can't be sure. Its definitely on the driver's side and in the front.
The sound is not related to braking. It doesn't happen on every turn. It can happen when starting from a stop or when already in motion. It happens on both flat ground and hills. At first it seemed to happen on cold days and only in the morning. I think this might have been a coincidence since now it happens throughout the day, every day.
My car is a 1993 honda accord with approximately 315,000 miles.
My 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
View 9 RepliesI have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
View 9 RepliesI have an 04 Limited, 6.0 PSD, 4x4 which I need to replace the front inner axle seals, the right side is leaking out the shaft. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos on how it is done but would like to get some first hand knowledge and recommendations.
First, how important is it to check the backlash before beginning the removal of the gear assembly? Do I need to remove the pinion gear as well or just the gear assembly?
How difficult is it to get everything back on place once the seals are replaced? I have not done this type of repair before and am concerned I might miss something.
I am planning to replace all the ball joints at this time also, this was the primary reason for this maintenance in the first place.
Noticed some fluid on the bottom of the Ex a few months ago and have been watching it since. Drained and refilled with the XL-12 fluid at the time and based on what I can see the likely culprit is the input seal on the transfer case. I have searched high and low both here and via the almighty google with little info to be found. Is it simply remove transfer case, replace input seal, reseal case connection, and refill?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Accord with about 65000 miles on it, 5 speed manual. The clutch is getting flaky. One time recently, it went to the floor and stayed there until I pulled the pedal back out. Then it worked fine for many days. Dealer could not get the problem to repeat; no leaks found. But now sometimes it is hard to get the car in gear (especially reverse), or the clutch feels spongy, but not in a consistent way.
View 2 RepliesHow hard is it to replace the front diff cover seal in an 03? Mine is leaking like a sieve... On a better note, it's the only leak I could find under my new-to-me Explorer.
Also found a broken coil spring in the rear, explains why it's leaning to one side. That is getting fixed later this week.
I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
View 10 Replies