Honda - Accord :: 1989 LX 5-Speed Won't Shift Into First Gear
Oct 8, 2011
'89 Honda Accord LX Sedan 5-Speed, 266k miles...
Bought this car recently and it worked fine when I got it (the most perfect 22-year old car I've ever seen). Between then and now I've driven it a little. It's my first stick shift car, so I've stalled it a few times, ground the gears a little, etc. learning to drive it. Anyway, it now won't shift into first gear. It shifts fine and drives fine in all the other gears, the only problem is with first. It also shifts fine into all gears when the car is off.
On a side note (in case it pertains to this situation), the car takes a little while to warm up. For 5-10 minutes after it is turned on, it idles really fast and makes a horrid scratching noise and then stalls if put into reverse (don't know about first, since it won't go into first). Once the idling slows down, though, this problem goes away.
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I have a 97 Honda Accord ex, and no matter how hot or cold it is outside, if the car hasn't been ran in more than an hour or two, it needs 5 minutes to warm up, (RPMs go down to 500, then rev up to 1200. That's how I know I can go) or else when driving it will stay in first gear and not allow me to go faster than 20 MPH. My mechanic said that the codes P0171 and P0505 came up. Also, the gas mileage is terrible, even after my fuel filter was changed.
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"my Honda accord 98, is stick shift and recently it has been rattleting a bit when I switch to speed one. if I don't push the clutch it shakes and wants to almost turn off."
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My 1990 Honda Accord is stuck in "sport", and won't shift past second gear. The button isn't stuck, but the "S" light stays on.
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I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
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1989 Honda Accord DX .. I have 2 problems.
Problem 1: the car will not idle with the ac on, goes dead.
Problem 2: the tank has a capacity of 15.9 gal. But after 10 gal. have been used, I have to put gas in for the car to run.
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My 1989 Honda Accord LX, with 135,000 miles on it, stalls after a few minutes of driving. Then, after re-starting, it stalls before I even have a chance to put it into drive. My mechanic replaced an electric base plate gasket in the carburetor but warned me that this repair might not fix the problem. If it didn't, I probably would need to replace the carburetor -- if one could be found for a 1989 model. Well, I still have the problem. My question: Is it worth it to invest $1,500, more or less, for a carburetor for a 22-year-old car? I've been using it strictly as a second car for the last 11 or 12 years. It seems to be in good shape otherwise.
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I have an 89 accord dx. That i just recently replaced the starter. and since then its been difficult to start. I have to pump the gas and hold the ignition. I also replaced the fuel pump not too long ago and the battery, also the fuel relay. have also gave a tune up so new plugs and wires and air filter. the only thing havent replaced is the fuel filter but it started like this right after i replaced the starter.
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The problem only occurs on a cold start. I put the key in and start the motor. It starts fine. It runs fine for about three(3) seconds and then the RPM's start to dive (I have to give it gas to keep it from dying). The exhaust begins to put out quite a bit of smoke and the engine runs really really really rough,... kinda like it has a heavy cam in it.
After a few minutes of this exhaust smoke and rough running, the engine of course is warming up. The RPM's start to come up on its own, the exhaust smoke disappears and the really really really rough idle (not really an idle because I have to give it gas to prevent the motor from dying) disappears and the car idles perfectly.This cold start problem also uses up a noticeable amount of gasoline.
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1.5L with automatic and 90K miles. In December going 60 mph on the highway at steady speed the car stalled, would not restart, towed home, tried new fuel pump relay, made no difference, put old relay in and it started, ran great for 6 months and now after filling up the tank, I hit a bump and went around a corner and it stalled again, same scenario, towed home and it started the next day. Been running fine since. Ground on fuel pump/ bad gas? another relay in the fuel pump circuit?
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RPM's will not get above 2000, in 1st and 2nd gear. No power....
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I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
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It drags and bogs in first and second gear. No jump to it at all. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter,brakes, brake lines,valve cover gasket, spark plugs, spark plug hoses, exhaust manifold, timings good. What else can it be?
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When I had other repairs done they told me that problem was in the number 2 cylinder and it was an internal problem. It was out of their league. I called Honda dealership, they had a girl on the phone and she said she couldn't give me a quote I would have to pay 85. to find out what it was. I don't think she knew what she was talking about. i need a quote how much this should be to fix it before I pay 85. for something that maybe thousands of dollars to fix. The car jerks when it is going into another gear especially in the 1st and 2nd gear. It like shoots off. Jerks and then kicks. If ya know what I mean. Like a transmission slip but I had that checked, that wasn't it. confirmed 2 places that is not the issue.
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Okay just got a 1992 honda accord automatic and sometimes when you stop at a light it will downshift to first and take off other times it wont downshift and stay in overdrive on take off...
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My 94 accord lx just received a replacement motor and tranny from jdm auto.its from a 95 odyssey. I had to swap throttle bodies, distributor... from the old one cuz the new one didn't have cruise control components, external coil... Now its seems rather gutless and it wont down shift when in d4 or d3 unless I come to complete stop, but sometimes it stays in 4th which sucks at an intersection! Also the shifter moves freely from first to neutral without pressing the button. and of course check engine light is on constantly. I've played with tranny cables fuses are good, reset ecu, fluid is new... every thing seems fine and the tranny that we took out down shifted fine so I must be missing something simple. timing?
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1991 Honda Auto trans, 247k miles. We now have the third transmission in the car and it still does not shift into over-drive-4th. Odds seem poor that all 3 were actually bad.What now?
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At any speed my car likes to slow down a bit then go back up to speed... feels like little mini lurches. Why... dirty fuel injectors?
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Why would my 92 honda accord run rough when it shift into overdrive.
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I own a 1994 Honda Accord with 200,000+ miles on it. Suddenly the Dashboard controls stopped working, and the shift lever wont shift out of Park unless I manually force it to shift by inserting key in to the slot beside the shift lever. I suspect it has something to do with the brake fuse. Where the break fuse is located.
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Approx. 8 mths ago, my Honda which I have owned since new, started this strange behavior of suddenly 'shuddering' while at a higher speed on the freeway. This shudder would take some time to get started, maybe 10-15 min. driving and I would feel the shudder first in my foot against the gas pedal, then it would be more pronounced seemingly on the left front wheel. If I took the foot off, it initially would be relieved, but if I continued to drive, it would eventually get worse to the point I needed to pull over. I took it into our trusted mechanic, and he couldn't reproduce the issue. He suggested and then did a wheel rotation/balance and the problem seemed to go away.Recently it has come back and my husband who is quite knowledgeable mechanically did some inspections, and for lack of anything else, he asked our mechanic to replace the left front drive shaft. Well, it didn't fix the problem. We are wondering what else could it be?
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