1989 Honda Accord DX .. I have 2 problems.
Problem 1: the car will not idle with the ac on, goes dead.
Problem 2: the tank has a capacity of 15.9 gal. But after 10 gal. have been used, I have to put gas in for the car to run.
My 1989 Honda Accord LX, with 135,000 miles on it, stalls after a few minutes of driving. Then, after re-starting, it stalls before I even have a chance to put it into drive. My mechanic replaced an electric base plate gasket in the carburetor but warned me that this repair might not fix the problem. If it didn't, I probably would need to replace the carburetor -- if one could be found for a 1989 model. Well, I still have the problem. My question: Is it worth it to invest $1,500, more or less, for a carburetor for a 22-year-old car? I've been using it strictly as a second car for the last 11 or 12 years. It seems to be in good shape otherwise.
View 2 Replies'89 Honda Accord LX Sedan 5-Speed, 266k miles...
Bought this car recently and it worked fine when I got it (the most perfect 22-year old car I've ever seen). Between then and now I've driven it a little. It's my first stick shift car, so I've stalled it a few times, ground the gears a little, etc. learning to drive it. Anyway, it now won't shift into first gear. It shifts fine and drives fine in all the other gears, the only problem is with first. It also shifts fine into all gears when the car is off.
On a side note (in case it pertains to this situation), the car takes a little while to warm up. For 5-10 minutes after it is turned on, it idles really fast and makes a horrid scratching noise and then stalls if put into reverse (don't know about first, since it won't go into first). Once the idling slows down, though, this problem goes away.
I have an 89 accord dx. That i just recently replaced the starter. and since then its been difficult to start. I have to pump the gas and hold the ignition. I also replaced the fuel pump not too long ago and the battery, also the fuel relay. have also gave a tune up so new plugs and wires and air filter. the only thing havent replaced is the fuel filter but it started like this right after i replaced the starter.
View 5 RepliesThe problem only occurs on a cold start. I put the key in and start the motor. It starts fine. It runs fine for about three(3) seconds and then the RPM's start to dive (I have to give it gas to keep it from dying). The exhaust begins to put out quite a bit of smoke and the engine runs really really really rough,... kinda like it has a heavy cam in it.
After a few minutes of this exhaust smoke and rough running, the engine of course is warming up. The RPM's start to come up on its own, the exhaust smoke disappears and the really really really rough idle (not really an idle because I have to give it gas to prevent the motor from dying) disappears and the car idles perfectly.This cold start problem also uses up a noticeable amount of gasoline.
I have a 2004 Accord. The radio died a slow death (going on and off at will.) It's finally dead, now. The other strange thing, is the the dome light comes on when I make a left turn. The mechanic I took it too couldn't figure it out, and told me to take it to the dealer.
View 3 RepliesMy 2007 suddenly wants to give no heat when idle...as soon as I begin moving again the heat blows hot, but when stopped at a light or sitting in park the heat only blows cold air...
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 Honda Accord, 94 K miles, received from Philadelphia last fall. When the car is cold, it idles when stopped (e.g. at a light) fine, but when it warms up, it idles so low it feels like it will stall. Also, once parked, or sometimes idling, a smell of rotten eggs comes form the exhaust. The check engine light remains on, though I replaced the gas cap. Is altitude the culprit? How to fix? It was serviced before I received it and I've changed the oil at 3 K miles once. I mostly drive low miles, locally.
View 4 RepliesWhy does my 1990 honda accord smell like ammonia and has a poor idle...
View 2 RepliesI took care of a vacuum leak on this car but I still have an Idle issue on a cold start it doesn't wont to idle at all once I get it warmed up it idle's in park and Neutral fine as soon as I put into drive it want's to die I can keep it going by letting of the gas and then pushing the gas peddle again and take of quickly. Stopping at red lights I have to hurry and put it into neutral or it will die having the ac on makes it worse.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1987 Honda Accord,that has a carburetor. initially I thought that it was my motor mounts or the idle speed needed adjusting. However since they have been replaced I and the idle speed tuned the problem persists. I don't know what else could be wrong. I have changed all belts, mounts, and still whenever I use anything electrical (I.e. fans, rear defrost, power windows,etc.) And the care is traveling below 10 mph the shaking just won't stop.that is till I put one foot on break and the other on gas. Keeping the idle speed above 1000 revolutions per minute.
View 3 RepliesMy v4 99'accord 4cyl with 152K miles had stalled a few months back.*the idle was rough/uneven.. *in stop-and-go traffic sometimes when i would hit the gas pedal, engine would almost skip a beat or two, and sometimes stall..
The car shop changed the ignition switch..they cleaned out the EGR valve which had plenty of carbon build up.after cleaning out the EGR valve the idle was much better.. But over time the idle has gotten worse. i fear another stall is around the corner. Is the EGR valve bad?
Another thing i noticed while test driving in the parking lot, i stop and start again by applying low but uniform pressure on the gas,the engine picks up, then drops, and then picks up and drops a few times before the car finally picks up speed..
My '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
I have a 95 honda accord 2.2L, 135,000 miles. One day while sitting at a light the car started vibrating due to a rough idle problem. The idle speed is ok at about 750 rpm.
View 1 RepliesNewly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
Have a 1996 Honda Accord that had a tune up ( new plugs, wires etc). also had a leak in a radiator hose fixed. About a month later, the engine started to over heat. Fluid in radiator was very low, but no physical leak. Filled it up and in 3 days radiator is low again. This time I noticed a soft brown buildup around the radiator cap. I checked the oil filler cap to see if the underside was caramel color ( head gasket leak), but the cap was clean. Now, it is running rough and will not idle when I come to a stop. Can't figure out what is going on!
View 4 RepliesMy car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
View 3 Replies!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
View 2 RepliesI drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
View 19 RepliesThe dealer recently replaced the front and side motor supports. Since then I've noticed that the car idles high when first cranked and I smelled excessive exhaust fumes. One time it idled really high and would not idle down when I hit the gas. Then it started idling up and down when my foot was not on the gas. Could there be any connection between this and the motor support installation? Could linkage to the gas pedal have been bent during installation? 2002 6 cylinder Honda Accord EX.....
View 3 Replies08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about