Honda :: 2003 - Vibration Generated Like Driving Down A Washboard Dirt Road
Nov 3, 2014
My 2003 Honda Element sometimes generates a vibration that feels just like driving down a washboard dirt road. You know one that the ridges are very close together. This only happens around 40 MPH with a load on the engine. At first I thought it was a wheel, tire or suspension issue. But I can make it stop instantly by pushing or releasing the gas pedal. So this leads me to think it is transmission related. This is a automatic. I would like to see the car sometime but would not feel right about passing on this problem without knowing the cost to fix it. Stumped in Seattle.
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I just got a 2007 Prius and using it mostly on a dirt/rough road. My problem is that there is a metal cranking noise coming from under car and trunk. This is nit happened when i drive on a good road.
I already asked the mechanic to check sway bar, shocks, struts, and brake. They said everything is okay except the front left strut boots which is already worn out. But the strut itself is still in good condition.
I'm OK everything except the noise. Already replaced new tires but it doesn't work....
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Front Suspension - 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3. McPhersons make noise when going over a washboard road. It's as if the top bushing on the strut is not large enough. Quite annoying.
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A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
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We have an 07 F150 XL reg cab. Having problem with the doors rattling going down a dirt or bumpy road. They sound almost as if door weren't shut rite even though they are slammed shut. We took it in to the dealer and they said they adjusted and replaced door stops but we still have the same problem. plus they said they could not duplicate.
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My wife's 05 Honda Civic with 105,00 miles on it is making a vibrating noise that sounds like going over a washboard. It seems to come from the right front of the car and only happens between 35 and 45 mph. We have been to 2 different repairs shops and replaced the bearings, struts, shocks, axles brakes, tires and engine mounts.. I' spent $ on this car and still haven't fixed the problem. My wife is starting to look at new cars ....
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I have been reading about some folks are having those vibration at certain speeds... Recently I also started noticing some strange vibrations... It happens when I am accelrating and driving on curved road at speed 100KM and up... I still cannot detect the source of these vibration as sometime it feels from steeing column or front suspension frame... All I can say its really annoying. Also, mechtronics valve body soon will be replaced as it is driving my DSG really insane.
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01 F350...4R100/V-10/4wd. Sometimes get a vibration driving down the road. First thought of tire out of balance but then the vibration goes away and may not come back for a few days or more. It starts sometimes around 30-40 mph and stays all the way up to around 65 mph. Even slowing down it vibrates or shakes. I can stop and take off again with nothing happening. Would think tires out of balance would do it all the time. And a few times....pulling my 5th wheel...making a right turn out of a parking lot.....it feels like a rumble from the rear.
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My odyssey stops running when I am driving on the road. The instrument panel goes off and the engine shuts down. There are 166,000 miles on it. I took it to the Honda dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
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My 2005 Infiniti G35 has 144,000 miles, two new rear tires and two good front tires. Sometimes, and I cannot nail down or reproduce-on-demand this situation, my car will suddenly begin to vibrate as if I'm driving over a smaller version of those rumble strips on the side of the road. The vibration continues when I take my foot off the accelerator, and will continue at a slower rate as I decelerate until I stop. Often it seems that when I come to a dead stop and accelerate again, the vibration stops, but other times it will continue as I accelerate.
But what's really odd is other times I'll just be cruising along and the vibration will begin, keep vibrating for a few miles, then peter out and disappear. I haven't totally nailed down whether or not braking affects it, but if pressed I would say that I would use the brakes at least once before it disappears. Also, it only seems to begin once I hit 50-60 mph, but again, it doesn't happen every time I go this speed. Other times this car drives incredible and makes the road feel as smooth as glass.
I haven't taken it to the shop because I'm sure they won't be able to reproduce it.
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I have a Honda Accord that has a very strange kind of failure. I've taken it to two mechanics - both fixed "something" - but I'm still without a car.
99 Honda Accord LX202,019 Miles
My check engine light is on and one time while driving down the road my car turns off. I need to make a road trip so I go see Mechanic 1.
Mechanic 1 - Check engine light had been on and his machine tells him the O2 sensors need to be replaced. We replace both. Light goes off. When asked about the 'spontaneous shutoff' - said it was a fluke and probably no big deal. He can't see anything other than what the computer tells him to replace.
Instrument panel currently shows no lights on. Everything works normally. I drive 1500 miles back to Wi and right as I get there....
Case 1 - I am driving down the street (residential, freeway, whatever) going any speed and the instrument panel suddenly loses all power. Speedometer drops to 0. Odometer drops to 0. The cabin (radio, clock) remain on and undisturbed. Engine is completely unresponsive to depressing the pedal and seems to be completely disengaged. The car is hard to steer but can be angled off the road. (but you can still hear your music....hooray...as you try to not get killed dodging off the side of the road)
Case 2 - On the side of the road/parking lot and the car will not turn on. Seems like it is about to start, but then dies before completing turning over. You wait 15 minutes. Then the car will actually turn over a bit more, but still not complete a start.
Case 3 - As I start the car I press the gas and rev the engine up to 4K RPMs for 4 seconds. The car then remains on. I drive for as long as it will go before Case 1 happens again.
While in WI I take it to a mechanic 2.
Mechanic 2 - Runs a test and believes there is a failure in the ignition assembly. Replaces 1 part that spans 3 different parts because he believes its cheaper to do that than to have him go all the way in there to get the 1 that he thinks is bad.
I drive the car 1400 back to AZ and Case 2 happens when we stop to get supplies. I perform case 3, the car starts and we make it back to California alive.
I try to drive the car around locally after getting back but cases 1-3 happen every other time I drive it.
Case X - The car sat idle for a few weeks as I thought it was "not safe to drive." Power locks on the car start to fail. No longer can get into the car without putting a key in a door and only that door will open. Car now has no power.
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2008 honda accord coupe ex-l
So, I assisted my sister in finding my nephew a used car and everything looked great on the surface as well as mechanical. We get the car home and the SRS light comes on.. I started digging into why and find there is dirt dust all behind the dash and side panels around airbags in back and pretty much everywhere below the surface.
Digging into the service records I see they did have to replace a fender liner which might have been a port of entry for all the dirt and dust. Apparently the young driver was putting in mileage on dry dirt roads without a fender liner.
I did caution against buying this car previously, even before looking at it, because it was a teenage driver, there was a minor wreck into driver's door and repairs had to be made for him running up on a curb as well. But in their desperation for a car.. they asked me to check out the mechanics of it.. i did.. they looked good.. but I missed all this dirt dust and now i feel bad.
Anyways, how to go about cleaning out all this dirt dust behind the dash, and panels of the car? I worried if I leave it there, he will experience additional expensive electronic issues.
Was thinking of taking off some side panels and dash off, and using a vacuum with a brush head to try and get it.. I could use compressed air.. but perhaps that may be potentially harmful to other electronics and connections?
As for the SRS light, i was able to count the light flashes in dash to get code 8-3 off of the flashing SRS light and a 7-1 off the ABS light. Referencing those: "Internal Failure of SRS unit".
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I've got a 2012 F250 SD and when i go over some bumps in the road or even down a gravel road, the door panel on the driver side vibrates and it's noisy. Is there any way to pull the panel and add some foam padding or something to stop this? I can see the panel vibrate or heck, maybe it the whole door.
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2003 Jeep Wrangler LOUD squeal when coming off the accelerator. I've had changed the Tension Pulley, The Belt, Checked the Power Steering, Removed the belt from the AC unit..smaller belt now....Tested the Alternator, it's working like a champ. I have a 4.0L 6 Cylinder. My mechanic wants to check the intake gasket and another intake which he spoke of and I can't remember at the moment however with no guarantees these or one of the two could be the problem. He expects it to be a 5 hour job. The sound seems to be generated from the lower backside of the engine...
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2002 4Runner 4x4, 180K miles. I bought this car about a year ago and don't know anything about its history before that but it seems to be in good shape.
About every month or two I take a trip that includes driving a few miles on a dirt road. It is a graded road in pretty decent shape. What has happened about 6 times during the year is that the CEL comes on while I am driving on the dirt road. The car continues to run well. When I get home and hook up my code reader the code is always P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold.
To save everyone the trouble of looking that up, this code indicates that either the upstream or downstream A/F Ratio sensor is bad. If both sensors test good then it is probably a bad cat.
What is different here is that after I clear the code, the CEL stays off as long as I stay on paved roads. So to summarize, I don't get the code every time I drive on a dirt road but every time the CEL has come on it is while I was on a dirt road.
So it seems that something about driving on a dirt road causes the CEL. Two obvious things you get on a dirt road are dust and vibration. What could be causing this? I did a visual inspection of the whole exhaust but did not see anything obvious such as cracks or leaks.
And of course I could live with this if I have to since it comes up under such limited circumstances. I just like to keep my cars running properly.
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I bought a CRV a few months ago. Of course when I test drove there were no issues. Now when I drive there is vibration like running cow grates at about 40-44mph. I came across a post about this problem but with no solution and it's now closed. Has there been a solution??? It's quite annoying!!!! I read some place else it's in the drive line. But again no solution. It quits of you accelerate or decelerate. You have to be going at a perfectly steady speed. Italso seems to slip or change gears, something, just not a smooth drive at other times. Is this the transmission??? Occasionally it smells really bad after I turn car off too.
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I have an '03 Aviator that has this really odd stumble / shutter while driving down the road. It loses power and feels like it is going to stall. This is very intermittent and not obvious at idle. Sometimes on hills, sometimes just cruising along. I did some reading and thought maybe I had an ignition coil(s) going bad.
I took the covers off the coils and pulled them out. Six of them looked perfect with one being newly replaced by Ford. Two of them had a thin film of oil mist on them both outside on the rubber boot and inside the rubber boot. I wiped them off and put them back in. There was no oil down in the plug bores and the valve cover gasket looked good. The plugs looked good too.
Is there any way to actually test these? If the problem is intermittent I am not sure if they would fail a test until they got hot from use. I do not have any lights or codes.
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I have owned this car for about 6 months now and cannot get to the bottom of this sound/action. I have taken it to multiple shops, including the dealer where I bought it from, a Honda dealership, and two other shops (Firestone Complete Auto Care, and a local shop which is goodyear backed.) Here is the deal:
When I accelerate past 50 mph and up to 75 miles per hour, and also when I cruise at any speed between those numbers, my car has a very distinct vibration in both the seat and steering wheel. It also has a sound that matches the intensity and magnitude of the vibration itself. The sound and vibration intensifies and decreases with changes in speed, the sound changes pitch when turning the wheel from one side to another, and the vibration gets worse as I drive up or down hills. This sound also gets louder if I apply the brakes suddenly, but also decreases with the speed of the car.
Things I have had checked:
Ball bearingsRims (One rim was actually bent (steel rims), and now is replaced.)Alignment (This was actually done at least 4 times since I've had the vehicle)Replaced tires (to rule out tire noise, and also the tires were going bad from what I believe is this problem)
I have had this car test driven to try to get opinions and either the shop denies that they hear anything, or say they do not know what the sound could be. It sounds like it is coming from the front right. I have been told by the dealership from where this car came that the sound is "road noise" and should be ignored. I disagree, because if it is "road noise" then it should go away when driving on different surfaces. When I have had my alignment checked, Firestone found that my camber on my front right and left rear were off to the right, but were still within specifications. They also said there was nothing they could do, and suggested if I wanted it fixed, I should take it to a body shop.
Included are a scan of the alignment results from Firestone, and a sound clip of the sound that is captured on my phone. Also, the sound can be heard throughout the recording, but is especially clear at around the 42 second mark.
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My 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
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Got this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
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I have a 2003 F250 4X4 crew cab 7.3. It was running great at 244,000 miles. The only problem was the HPOP was leaking, I had done the two upper O rings several thousand miles ago. Any ways after changing the HPOP while driving down the road it would miss at times or hiccup (funny it wasn't doing this before) Also it died a couple times, once at a stop light, had to get it towed home another time in stop and go traffic, this time it started with-in 10 min after trying several times. So I decided to change the IPR, still did the same thing. So I decided to change the CMP with negative results. I checked the ICP sensor it looked good no oil leaking or no saturation. So would it be safe to say I may have gotten a bad HPOP. Remember, I had no problems until I replaced the HPOP
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