Honda :: 1995 - Won't Start Until Sits For Some Time?
Aug 24, 2012
My daughter has a 95 Honda. It doesn't matter if it is driven 5 miles or 5 hours. Once you stop and turn the key off, the car has to sit for about 15 minutes before it will start again. No sound or click when the key is turned beforehand. It doesn't die while driving, but it doesn't seem to matter how far it is driven. Once it is off - it will not start again. Once it sits, it will start right up! What it may be?
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Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
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We have an 03 Odyssey that we have to jump start if it sits for more than 1 day. We aren't leaving lights or radio on. Our mechanic can't figure out what is wrong. He has replaced the battery 3 times and says that is not the problem. What we are doing now is disconnecting the cables to the battery at night, so it will always start in the morning, even after two days of not driving it. It works, but it's a pain! What is causing this problem?
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Recently the check engine light has started coming on every time I drive on the highway. At approximately the 5th mile of my ride, the light comes on but I cannot detect any symptoms, the car runs great. This rarely if ever happens when driving in the city, only on the interstate. My car is too old to be hooked up to the fancy diagnostic machine. What I should check to resolve this problem? 1995 Honda Odyssey with 279,000+.....
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?
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My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
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It usually takes three times of trying to start before it actually completely starts,it starts then immediately stalls usually twice and on the third try it starts right up.
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Recently replaced head on my 95 civic 1.6 Vtec, i had to replace the head gasket a few years ago so i know what to do. My problem now is that it will not start and has no spark to the plugs, i have new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, even tried a new distributor but took it back since it changed nothing. I pulled a plug wire, removed the plug and plugged it into the wire, turned the engine over and no spark.I've checked voltage to the distributor with ignition switch on and as far as i can tell it's getting voltage to the distributor. But when i try to crank it the engine turns over but will not start. It is getting gas, i took the fuel rail off with the injectors and checked for flow. I've taken timing cover off a couple of times to make sure all timing settings were as they should be. I even went ahead installed a new ignition switch which made no difference. Waste of time and money. I've checked several times to make sure all electrical connections are good. I really hope this turns out to be a simple fix but right now i'm at a loss. ECM maybe?
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Every time I try to start my 95 Honda Accord, there is a fast clicking sound and the car will not start. All of the interior lights come on, and the car is full of gas, so I'm not quite sure what the problem might be. My car did start before we were hit with all of this snow in MA, but now it's not.Why my car will not start?
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Vehicle- 98 honda crv lx problem- it always starts when its cold (hasn't run for several hrs). Once its been running for a short while and is shut off, it either has a very hard time starting again or just won't start.
specifics- always starts the first time once engine is warm the problem starts engine turns but doesn't fire. Wears downs the battery. When I get it jumped the car will start sometimes the car will act sluggish during a left turn or from a dead stop when trying to accelerate quickly.
question- does this sound fuel pump related or battery related or both?
statement- car problems blow!
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I am having trouble with my car hesitating when it sits between 1600 and 2000 rpm. My car does a rapid shake that is felt throughout the car. It lasts for 2 seconds and then disappears. It has been happening for a month now and it seems to be increasing in frequency. My husband doesn't believe it is a major problem and that it can wait.
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Intermittent start on 96 accord, will start 1in 4 times. no noise as if it was dead. replaced starter. worked for a week... did it again after a few days.. replaced starter again.. diagnostic on electrical ok....
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My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
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1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.
Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.
Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.
However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?
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I have an 02 accord SE. The last few times that I have pumped gas the engine would not start until 10 minutes later. First time I turned the key in the ignition there would be no sound, I tried again 2 minutes later and there would be a little sound, next time I tried there would be a little rumble. I'd wait and try 10 min later and it would start again... It has happened the last 3 times I've pumped gas and only when I pump...
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I am suddenly having difficulty starting my car. It will consistently turn over, but sounds as if it's running down the battery - right away, I don't sit for more than a few seconds with the ignition switch engaged. I turn the key to the off position and try again and it will has started up by the 3rd try every time so far. Once it starts, it runs great - no problems what so ever.
I replaced the battery about a month and a half ago so I suspected that perhaps I got a bad battery. I took the car by autozone to have them test the battery and alternator - both tested "good," But I should note that this was actually the second time I took it to autozone this weekend and the battery tested good but low charge the first time (It was fully charged this time and I had just had trouble cranking. I thought I had just killed the battery because I was using a cell phone battery charge and thought it was just drawing too much).
I suspected the starter may be going bad, but I'm not sure because it will turn the engine over every time, it just doesn't start. The girl at autozone suggested it may be the voltage regulator but I thought that that along with issues with the alternator itself would be noticeable if I ran the car with the lights, radio, etc on? I read that it could be the plugs or wires, but I would think in that case the battery wouldn't sound as if it were run down right off the bat.
[URL] ....
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This is for my previous car that I used to own in 2005. It was a 1992 Honda Accord and the issue it had was anytime I went to the gas station to fill up the gas, the car refused to start and I would need to jump start the vehicle every time. I used to take the DC metro to work everyday, so I did not have to use the car as much, but it was a hassle. This happened all through the year and I was just used to carrying a Jump Starter Box with me in the car. There were no other issues with the car. I do not recall needing a jump start any other time. This one time, I forgot to keep my car in the garage and it was out in the snow all weekend. Come Monday morning, I started the car without any issues. I went to a friends place about 10 miles away and then tried to fill gas at a gas station near his place and it died at the gas station. I do not have the car with me now, having totaled it in an accident couple of years ago. But I was always amazed at this and would like to know what would cause something like this.
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SEL that runs perfectly fine — most of the time. About once every month or so, I'll be driving around, running errands or whatever, and I'll get into the car and it won't start. It wants to turn over but sputters like it's just getting little bursts of fuel. No warning lights or check engine light come on, I've tried jump starting, resetting the emergency fuel shutoff, swapping relays, it's been to the shop multiple times — they just end up cleaning the fuel filter — I've tried everything I can think of. The kicker is, if I let the car sit for an hour or two, it will start right back up like nothing ever happened.
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I've replaced the fuel pump and filter, plugs and coolant temp sensor. It starts after I spray starter fluid in after a few times and cycle the key on to prime the line but is still hard to start. It runs fine and it seems that as long as the engine is warm or (guessing) fuel is still pressurized in the line it starts fine.
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I have got 22 inch rims and whenever someone sits in the back, it's always rubbing. What can I do to prevent that. Someone recommended me spacers.
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I own a 2006 Chev Cobalt with 133000 kms (yes I'm Canadian). About 6 months ago after the car sat over night in the rain, it would not start that morning. It would turn over and cough and sputter for afew seconds but not stay running. I had it towed to my garage. The car sat there for a while and when the mechanic got in, it started no problem. The mechanic tried hosing down the entire area under the hood to get the car to act up, but that didn't do anything. I took the car home and we all chalked it up as a fluk. Then a week later , after an over night in the rain, it did it again. Towed to the garage and it fixed itself by the time the mechanic got to it. This happened 3 more time.
CAA sprayed all the ignition parts with something like WD40, they even got a hold of another coil pak that I could borrow to see it that would solve the problem.... it didn't. They put it on a code reader and it read " Camshaft positioning (CMP) sensor circuit". But they ( my mechanic) told me that they just didn't know what to do next. They recommend another mechanic, but I haven't gone yet because I'm afraid that they will look at my car as a "cash cow". For now, to avoid this problem, when I know it's going to rain, I plug in the block heater, and put a desk lamp with a 40 watt bulb under the hood, then bungy down a tarp over the hood after I close it. I would like to point out that if I go to work and the car gets rained on all day (9-5) it will still start. It seems like the car has to soak in the moisture first.
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