Grand Prix :: Reduced Engine Power Warning - Traction Control Lights Comes On
Mar 5, 2009
This has happened to me twice now, 2 weeks between occurrences:
Driving to work, about 10 minutes into the trip - traction control light comes on, "Reduced engine power" message appears on DIC, and check engine light comes on.
The car is an '08 Prix, no charger, with 51K on it. This is actually the first trouble I've had with the car since it left the dealer lot.
I pull over, turn car off. Turn back on - traction light goes out, and engine is running at full power. The check engine light remains on for about 5 starts/stops then goes away.
I haven't had the engine scanned yet. The only thread here I could find recommended replacing the throttle body. The person decided to clean the throttle body, and that was the last post.
I was thinking of removing the individual electronic components from the TB and cleaning them and the area around them in the TB. (I have the sensor-safe cleaner for TB's).
I don't think this error condition would be a warranty issue, but I'm not sure. It's a MAJOR hassle for me to get the car to the dealer.
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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This morning after starting my accent the abs, e-brake, and traction lights all came on. What could this indicate, and should I not drive the car till it is fixed? I checked brake fluid levels for the of it, and they were fine.
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For the past week I have had the steering wheel and traction control warning lights come on after I start the car after sitting for a long period of time. Once I drive the car a few feet the warning lights disappear. The model is a 2007 2.0T with 72,000 miles. What are next steps or should I head to the dealership? I'm out of factory warranty but have a third party warranty that expires at 75,000 miles.
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Started my 2010 Prius the other day and the traction control, brake light, abs light and a yellow Astrix light came on and wouldn't go off. The car drives and handles just fine, brakes feel normal. I have tried resetting the lights with a trick with a paper clip someone else posted, but it didn't work for me.
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My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
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My grand prix is getting terrible mileage but runs great. Where should I begin checking. There is no codes or lights. It runs good but only gets 18-19 mpg on the hwy. I traded my wifes 97 Bonneville for this car and that big old bonnie got about 26 on the hwy with the same engine. I just assumed the gp would do at the very least the same. What do you guys get with the 98's? I don't know where to start but if it don't get better than that, I'm trading it back for a Bonneville. It has 113k on it. I have put a new Air Filter in it and Thermostat. It seems like it does not heat up very much but I guess it is ok. I put the new Thermostat in and it heats up the same. About 1/4 way up the gauge. I guess like 160-170?
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I have seen this pop up on the truck I think 3 times now over the first 4000 miles on the truck.
Usually it's when I'm on the highway around 70mph or so.
It comes on for a few seconds, then goes away. I do have an exhaust / tune on the car.
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Getting reduced engine power warning with no other lights on the dash and what is probably causing it. The truck is a 14 f450 cab and chassis model. I had just had it to the dealer for this problem and the check engine light was on and the said there were two sensors going bad on the exhaust so they changed them out and sent me on my way. Well after driving the truck around all day and not one issue it had just decided to set the rep warning again but did not set off any lights...
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Reduced Engine Power warning and fuel leak? While towing our 37 Fiver uphill a couple of days ago, the warning popped up along with the CEL. Indeed, the truck did lose a tremendous amount of power. When I found a safe place to stop, the diesel smell was terrible. Further inspection revealed that fuel was dripping down the side of the engine from somewhere above the oil filter. I limped along another 15 miles to the campground and unloaded the 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel and brought the truck in to the dealer this morning. They aren't giving many details of their findings thus far. They say that they've talked to Ford engineers and that they'll have to put a dye into the fuel to detect the origin of the leak. They suspect the high pressure fuel pump, but by the time they remove enough "stuff" to get to the pump, they can't run the engine to witness the leak. This is my first Ford in 30 years behind the wheel and my first diesel. After 8k miles on the truck.....
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I just had my first fuel filter change (about 9,000 miles). After the shop changed both fuel filters with factory Ford ones, a check engine light came on and a "low fuel pressure" warning, along with a "reduced engine power" warning. It also stalls a lot and takes a long time to restart.
Obviously, they didn't do it right. I suppose there is air in the lines or something didn't go back together correctly.
My '06 seemed to purge itself, but this truck obviously won't. It is not even driveable to get it back to the station, to see if they can correct the problem.
The thing is, I watched them do it, so if someone can ask me the right questions as far as what I saw, maybe I can lick the issue in the driveway myself.
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My 07 Prius recently started to get a traction control warning and loss of power on smooth, dry roads at 65mph on an interstate highway..... There was enough space between us and the 80,000 lb truck behind us..... As we slowed the warning abated and power was restored. BUT, the car will not maintain 65 mph without this recurring. Toyota has not been useful. Nothing stored on the pcu indicates what may have occurred.
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I need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
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I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
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I've got a 2009 Mazda3 hatchback, 31,000 miles. As I'm sure you know, it's very cold in the Northeast today. It was -12F on my drive in to work! I went out to lunch with a coworker today, and it had warmed up quite a bit to about 25F. As I was driving back to work - 40mph on a dry, straight stretch of road - my check engine light and traction control/stability control light came on. They aren't flashing, just steady. The traction control light will flash if I hit a particularly bad patch of slush, but it's never lit up on a dry road before.
Right after the light came on, the automatic transmission started feeling...funny. It was shifting hard, although downshifting felt okay. My coworker even noticed before I said anything. I don't think it was the traction control - it was specifically as the automatic transmission was shifting, not at any other time. I've read through the TSBs and didn't see anything relevant, and I've already made an appointment for tomorrow at the dealer. I've only got 5,000 miles left in my warranty so I'm a little nervous - the car has been terrific so far.
I would think the traction control light would be unrelated to the transmission, so I'm a little confused. Also, just to rule out a few other things - the last time I got gas was about a week ago and I still have a third of a tank. I don't think this is a gas cap problem or frozen gas, both of which I've experienced before (in other cars).
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I have multiple O2 codes on my '02 gti. It is giving me a check engine lights as well as the traction control light on. I received 6 codes all but one of them had to do with the O2 sensor and a short except for one that came in as the MAF. Both O2 sensors have been replaced and the codes still won't clear. I bought it in this condition, it runs really well so i wasn't to concerned about it, but the lights are starting to get annoying.
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2010 camry. Check engine and traction control lights came on at 48K. Took to dealer for diagnostic scan. Came up w/ code p0037. Told me it was bank 1 position 1 oxygen sensor.....$455 to replace. I want to do it myself but am having trouble finding the part. Where exactly the location on vehicle this is? Will I run into trouble getting at this? Its a 2.5 L.
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Just replaced power steering pressure hose while engine out as PM. New hose wasn't correct shape so I bent the tubing to fit. I later realized that I bought a hose for power steering without variable assist and the hose for variable assist looks correct.
Is there any harm in leaving the "w/o variable assist" hose in now?
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I am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
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I've been fixing things here and there (hub bearing, struts, etc.). My latest repair is the water pump, it was howling for a few seconds during cold starts; I just replaced it today, hopefully this unit lasts for a long time.
A few days ago, I noticed this hissing noise after I turn the engine off at normal temp. Since there was a leak from the radiator drain, I thought that was it and didn't care about it. I just installed a new o-ring on the drain cock along with the new water pump. Test drove the car and it turns out the noise is still there, is it normal or not, I didn't put much attention before.
The noise can be heard from underneath and above the engine, it kinda seems to be coming from the intake BUT I find it weird since I installed a new upper intake manifold in november of 2013. It's a Dorman unit and I followed all the instructions from the kit and the workshop manual. Lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced back in november 2009 after the engine was rebuilt because of a cracked head (not sure what type did the mechanic use, back then I didn't know much about repairs). It's hard to believe that these gaskets have failed already. I also replaced the coolant elbow almost two years ago after the belt tensioner assembly failed.
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