Grand Prix :: Loose Power On Acceleration And Motor Completely Dies At Times
Feb 20, 2014
I have a 2004 grand prix gt, within the last couple of days, it seems to loose power on acceleration and the motor completely dies at times. After waiting 10 seconds or so it will crank but may die again or just feel like it is loping. The problem is getting worse quickly. I have replaced the fuel filter. This did not stop the problem. I thinking it may be the fuel pump. If it is the fuel pump is there any way to verify this to be sure it is the problem before replacing it?
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My daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
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I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+
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I bought my 2001 Grand Prix with a 3.8 liter (non supercharged) earlier this year. Within the first month, the check engine light came on with a P0410 code. Took it to the shop here at the auction that I work at to get repaired. He ran the diagnostics on it and found that the air pump wasn't working. He pulled it out and it was full of water, due to the air inlet being so low. So, he replaced the air pump and re routed the air inlet so that it was higher up into the engine compartment. That same night, the light came back on, so I brought it back in the next day. The relay failed and popped the fuse. Replaced both, and the light was off for a full day.
Got ready to take it in for its emissions test today, and the light came back on again. The air pump is not working, again. Turns out that the previous owner had replaced the air pump twice (once with aftermarket, and once with an OEM unit) because of the water build up and freezing the first time. I am not aware of any GM service bulletins, but there has to be something that is taking out these pumps. The only things not replaced on the secondary air system is the lower check valve and solenoid. So, what could be causing the pumps to fail prematurely?
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I have a 98 Grand Prix 3.8 with about 170,000 miles on it. Yesterday I tried to start it, and it would crank but not start. Let me provide some background info . . . We had received cold temps and snow recently and the vehicle is parked outside. The car ran fine the day before in colder temps. Yesterday morning I was scooping the snow next to the car and I bumped into it causing the alarm to go off. The horn honked 4 or 5 times and then stopped. Later when I tried to start it, it would just crank. At first I thought it was the fuel pump since I could not hear it. The fuse was fine. I then noticed the DIC was flashing 0 on all modes.
On another thread I saw that is often due to a loss of data between the DCI and PCM. I thought perhaps I tripped the security system when I bumped into it which is preventing it from getting fuel, and perhaps was also causing the DIC to show 0. A GM service tech said to put the key in the run position for 10 minutes then turn it off, and then do this two more times and that should clear the security system and the car should start. I tried it and it did not work. I am starting to think it may be a bad PCM. Stopped at my local Oreillys to check out their code reader, but they no longer check them out to take home. It must be used there.
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2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.
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We have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
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I have a 2000 grand prix gtp, I am trying to pull the motor so i can change some things up so i can race it. But how to pull the motor or transmission with it.
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I am looking for step by step instructions with (pictures or video I know sounds corny if not oh well) on how to remove the wiper motor and crank arm. Need to get these taken care of, cause my wipers are stuck in the vertical position. They still work fine just need to be replaced. 2002 Grand Prix GT
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I have a 2004 pontiac grand prix gt. I read some where that some of these have the resistor and blower motor close together and that the molding or rubber that runs at the bottom of the windshield after time will leak water into the blower motor and resistor and cause a short. I believe this has been the cause of a lot of my issues with car shorting out. the other day had to have it towed for the first time in its 11 years and found out it was one of the j fuses arcing causing the car not to start.
It's already 267,000 miles.
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I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix (3.8) and when i was driving my car randomly shut off. When i tried to start it again, the car would start, rev a 1000 RPMs then dies a second later. If i pump the gas i can keep it running at around 2000 RPMs until i let my foot off the gas, then it dies After repeated attempts the tow truck was in need. the following day i ran some tests. when starting the car the fuel pressure would stay between 40-50 psi and doesnt drop below that. (excludes fuel pump, filter, etc..)
After running tests the car suddenly started up and continued to run with the rpm bouncing (+/- 100 rpm) i let the car run for 10 minutes and it began running perfectly. This has happened repeatedly in the past 3 days. I have noticed that when letting the car sit while runnig, it will usually die within 2 minutes, however if I am driving. It will sometimes be fine for hours. When attempting to start it by hitting the gas, the car will sometime sputter at 300 RPMs when hitting the gas will do nothing. in some situations i will hit the gas and the rpms will decrease and rise randomly. (letting my foot off the gas, rpms will hesitate before reducing).
When the car dies, i am at times able to get it running after spending 30 min fiddling with it. But half the time it wont start. I have a -P0107 and P0108, codes for high input and output of the MAP sensor. When i unplug the sensor it seems to have minimal effect to the running condition of the car. When i unplug it at times the car will keep a steady rpm while hitting the gas and the car acts no different when i unplug the sensor when the car is running well. I ordered a new MAP sensor which should arrive today so i can see if that is the problem.
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I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
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Just replaced power steering pressure hose while engine out as PM. New hose wasn't correct shape so I bent the tubing to fit. I later realized that I bought a hose for power steering without variable assist and the hose for variable assist looks correct.
Is there any harm in leaving the "w/o variable assist" hose in now?
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I have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP and the AC just stopped working. The fan blows but i don't get any cold air. I have noticed the AC clutch plate does not move and the relay does not click when the ac is toggled. Long story short, I think I need a wiring diagram for the AC. Here is what I have checked/ruled out so far.
1. When I toggle the AC, the AC clutch relay does not click so i assume there is no power getting to the relay. (I have recently had other wiring issues so I'm guessing its the same case)
2. I swapped the AC clutch relay with the fog lap relay (they are the exact same relay) and the fog laps still worked so i know its not the relay.
3. I have checked the AC fuse and that is fine.
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I have a 98 gp gt. I have no power going to the radio, sunroof, steering wheel controls, or power windows in the fuse panel I have virtually ripped this car apart and still no clue why I'm not getting power.
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In my 2004 Comp G I have an extremely loud clunk when braking. The braking clunk does not happen all the time. There is a clunk while having the car in reverse and power braking it. While holding down the brake and revving hard and fast it make the loud clunk every time. It will not do it all the time in drive though. I can not pin point which side it is coming from. It sounds as if it is mostly the right. It almost sounds as if it is coming from inside the trans near the pan area?
I have replaced the lower control arms, sway bar bushings, stab links, struts & mounts, I have solid engine and trans and top mounts, new inner and outer tie rods, all wheel bearings, etc.... (not for this issue, just for performance/wear).
I am torn between thinking it is a cv axle or internal drive train noise.
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I noticed red fluid coming out of a line behind the radiator. The line runs directly into the bottom of the radiator. Is that line the lower pressure or high pressure power steering line?
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix, GT 3.8L
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This has happened to me twice now, 2 weeks between occurrences:
Driving to work, about 10 minutes into the trip - traction control light comes on, "Reduced engine power" message appears on DIC, and check engine light comes on.
The car is an '08 Prix, no charger, with 51K on it. This is actually the first trouble I've had with the car since it left the dealer lot.
I pull over, turn car off. Turn back on - traction light goes out, and engine is running at full power. The check engine light remains on for about 5 starts/stops then goes away.
I haven't had the engine scanned yet. The only thread here I could find recommended replacing the throttle body. The person decided to clean the throttle body, and that was the last post.
I was thinking of removing the individual electronic components from the TB and cleaning them and the area around them in the TB. (I have the sensor-safe cleaner for TB's).
I don't think this error condition would be a warranty issue, but I'm not sure. It's a MAJOR hassle for me to get the car to the dealer.
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I have a 99 Grand Marquis, I drive all week long in the city (check engine light dose not come on) but soon as I get on the interstate on the weekend the check engine light come on (codes 0171 @ 0174 ) . I also hear engine knock at certain times when the motor is under certain accel. conditions.
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My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
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I have a 1991 Grand Voyager 3.3liter AWD minivan. It only has 80k original miles on it. It works totally fine sometimes, and then for no apparent reason, begins to lose power, as if it's not getting fuel. I can put my foot into the accelerator hard and it will likely correct itself in a few miles. If the cruise control is on, it will lose power...then regain it....then lose it....and so on, for many miles. The problem does not happen every time I drive, but most times. I have changed the fuel pump twice. each time it seemed fixed, but then the problem comes back. Most recently, It quit altogether, and I had to be towed home. I can start it now with starting fluid, but i suspect the fuel pump is out again. Another strange aspect of the problem is that this is my 2nd 1991 voyager, and the first had the same identical problems. I use it as a delivery van, and need to get it reliable...I've considered the ASD relay, or the fuel pump relay. I changed the fuel filter today to no avail. It currently won't start without ether.
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