Grand Prix :: BTSI / Gear Shift Knob Removal?
Jul 31, 2015
I've tolerated having to release my key with the manual push button for years. Now the interior is disassembled (after replacing evap core) so I'm looking into fixing the BTSI.
I've never been clear on whether the problem is in the console by the gear shift or in the steering column. The thing is in the steering and has a solenoid that will mechanically allow the key to turn to the LOCK position when energized. The manual release is at the bottom.
I connected the leads of that white thing to battery voltage and sure enough, the post retracts. So that seems to work. However, when connected to the car wiring, there is not enough voltage to retract. It retract, it will hold. I concluded the problem is near the gear shift. Probing the lead (with the white thing disconnected) indicate battery voltage, but that's without any current.
Battery voltage is getting to the wiring harness in the console. Probing the leads to the Park switch indicates 90 ohms resistance. I suspect this is too high and causing a big voltage drop so there's not enough to energize the solenoid in the column.
What can be replaced in the console to remedy this? Is it only the park switch?
How is the gear shift knob removed? I see a slit in the back of the knob, but don't know how the mechanism works.
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Just took off the throttle body of my 2002 GT to clean it. Had all of the sensors off (IAC, MAF, TPS). Put everything back together and it fired right up but immediately went to 3000 rpm and acted like it would keep climbing.
Thought I was very careful putting everything back together. Obviously the throttle is open but there is no play in the throttle cables. Could it be a sensor?
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I am trying to remove the shift knob and the steps are entirely different than the DSG knobs from the GTI; You take just the boot off (not the assembly) then underneath is a hose clamp which needs to be removed. (this is not on the GTI version); I cannot figure out how to get this clamp off; I guess you need hose clamp pliers? And then do you need a new hose clamp? Won't it ruin the clamp?
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I was looking through the DIY and I couldn't find one that just removes the knob it self. I know its all the same steps to remove everything but everyone just swapped the boot and everything. I want to keep my boot and just change the knob to a solid glass ball.
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I recently purchased my R32 and the previous owner installed a short throw shifter. The knob and aluminum ring look like they are installed correctly but the boot won't stay up next to the aluminum ring. I originally thought that it would just either snap into place or it would need to twist to lock it into place. I've looked at and I can't figure it out. How it is supposed to attach to the aluminum ring?
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What may be causing my car to harshly shift fron 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd the 3rd. One solution some one had was to replace the:
"TPS (throttle position sensor). The other reason for hard shift is a worn Boost valve and will need to be replaced, or a faulty transmission fluid EPC (electronic pressures control valve). Both Boost valve and EPC are located in the Valve Body and can be replaced with out dropping the valve body, but have to drop the transmission pan".
I did just recently top off the tranny fluid because it was running a bit low but there is no leak....
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I've read a few posts of people trying and they say the cant be removed but I just don't believe it! I cut off some of the rubber on the with a knife and its all white plastic underneath.. I just don't believe that its actually impossible to remove this.
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Over the past month, my car has been hesitating in 3/4 gear right around the 1900-2200 RPM range. The tach moves up and down (like a rev limiter) between that RPM range for a few seconds then it is okay. I notice it mostly when I get on the expressway. The car has 185000 miles and here is a list of things that I have replaced along with the mileage that I think might possibly be the issue:
Mass Air Sensor -163000
Tune up - 160000 (Plugs + Wires)
Fuel Filter - 145000
I checked through the forums and didn't see my particular issue. Thoughts on the issue?
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, 3/8L non supercharged.
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I tried searching and googling but came to no results, unless its like similar trucks. How do the 4x4 shift remove? I have an 04 F250 and someone decided to put the shift on sideways so the 4HI and etc read upside down before I purchased the truck. Do I just rip the thing off?
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I'm new to this and not really sure if I'm doing it right. I need to know how to take the gear shift knob off my 2008 santa fe.
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How Do You Remove Gear Shift Knob For Replacement ?? On My 07 Azera
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How do I take off the gear shift knob? I want to replace it with an aftermarket one.
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This morning the Shift Knob made a click every time I selected a gear, for about an hour, then it went away.
It was colder than almost ever here (Berkeley, CA) last nite, 30F. But there was no click back in '05 at 10F (in Prudhoe Bay, AK).
Mechanics (even the dealership!) say not to worry--probably a plastic part--just advised me to shift gently.
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I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
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I have a 95 Grand Prix 3.1L and I can't turn my key. You can put it in and take it out, but it won't turn whatsoever. It's stuck in my driveway and I've tried just about everything to get it to turn.
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I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
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Thought my transmission was slipping. So I changed the tanny. been driving it for a few days and now it doing the same thing. Is it possible that it a different problem with the same symptoms?
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When I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
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When you are accelerating anywhere from half to full throttle it may cut out at any given time. The RPM will drop down, it may bounce up and down for a bit and recover, or it will drop all the way down and stall. If you let off the gas it may or may not recover. If it stalls so far from the tests I have done if you never shut the key off it will never restart again. If you shut the key off and wait from 5 to 10 minutes it will all of a sudden restart normally like nothing ever happened. If you try to restart it immediately even if you shut the key off and back on it will not start.
When it does not start when I am attempting to start: Fuel pressure according to my gauge is between 55 and 60 psi. Inline spark tester shows that it is getting a spark. Engine sounds normal while cranking so in other words compression sounds normal. I have an LED test light rigged up showing when an injector fires, and it does show electrical activity going to the injector when it opens (flashes). Only clue is that it SEEMS dimmer when it wont start, but I have no clue if thats how it normally is on start up. Its only a slight difference from the brightness of a normal idle brightness. I have a snap on scanner hooked up, nothing that I know of looks abnormal in the data and it will not throw codes when this happens.
Parts I have changed or cleaned so far: Changed the fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module, and MAF sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. When the car is working normally it runs strong, good power, smooth. Starts great normally.
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Last year my a/c worked off and on. so far now its not working at all. Compressor isn't kicking on. i bought a bottle of the EZchill refrigerant to recharge the system. I took the relay out and added 12+ to the pin to kick on the compressor. Even with the compressor running the gauges are in the blue range which is the normal operating range. With the compressor running, the air is cold but when i stick the relay back in the compressor wont kick back on. I tested the relay and its fine. Also the compressor is rattling.
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