Just replaced power steering pressure hose while engine out as PM. New hose wasn't correct shape so I bent the tubing to fit. I later realized that I bought a hose for power steering without variable assist and the hose for variable assist looks correct.
Is there any harm in leaving the "w/o variable assist" hose in now?
I noticed red fluid coming out of a line behind the radiator. The line runs directly into the bottom of the radiator. Is that line the lower pressure or high pressure power steering line?
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix, GT 3.8L
I have a 98 gp gt. I have no power going to the radio, sunroof, steering wheel controls, or power windows in the fuse panel I have virtually ripped this car apart and still no clue why I'm not getting power.
View 3 RepliesInstalling engine after complete rebuild. The starter will turn it over and break in oil was added. How can I verify oil is flowing when I turn it over (with no fuel or spark) to avoid a dry start?
View 4 RepliesThe A/C low pressure hose is leaking right by the fan. Is there any way to repair it without replacing the entire hose? The leak is toward the middle of the hose, so there is plenty of room to install some sort of insert. I don't know what would be the best type of insert such as: Brass, Steel, Plastic or Aluminum.
View 2 RepliesIt is the 2000 GTP 2 door. It is my sons car and is dead in front of my house. Changed the fuel filter as it is cheap to do. At the check valve there is no pressure in the fuel line. I turned it over with the hose off the filter it did not pump any fuel. I do hear a click or clunk in the gas tank when I turn it over suggesting it is getting power into the pump.
I almost went and bought a pump but do not really want to put the $230 + tax down without checking the resistor after reading around the net.
I'm having this weird problem with my car, 90% of the time it will start to run rich, until it reaches normal temp, to the point that I can smell it coming out from the exhaust. LTFT is at around -15% and it seems to go down after cruising for some time but will go back to negative at idle. My first suspect was the FPR so I checked it and found no gas smell on the vacuum hose, then I decided to run the engine with the vacuum hose disconnected and see if any fuel would come out, 5 minutes later and it was still dry.
There is a chance that the MAF sensor is bad, I'm 90% sure it is, because it will sometimes read 2.9-3.1 gps at idle and according to the rule of thumb of 1gps per liter of displacement, it shouldn't go that low but I might be wrong about it; I disconnected the MAF and the smell was still there, today while driving it was reading 5.45gps (A/C was on) and the smell was still present; car also feels sluggish from time to time only at normal operating temperature (which I assume is because of it running rich).
There is also a vibration felt through the steering wheel only while idling in gear at all temps. Today when I got home and after I turned off the engine I heard a noise like water was running. It was coming from the car so I tried to find where the noise was coming from and it's from the fuel tank. I removed the fuel cap and lots of air came out (or sucked in?). I reinstalled the cap and pressure started to build up almost immediately! I have a video, which I'm sharing, so you can see what I'm talking about; I was even able to hear the fuel tank expanding because of the pressure inside, not sure if you can hear it towards the end of the video (when I put the phone under the car). [URL] .....
It also happened today that I was cruising and the engine hit the rev limiter after I stepped on the gas (WOT) to overtake another car. I immediately removed the foot from the pedal and gave it less gas and it acted normal, no slipping from the transmission at any other time. There is one more thing that I'm not sure about it. Every morning, the engine will sputter for 1 or 2 seconds after starting it but it will be fine for the rest of the day. I once tried disconnecting different sensors from the engine and the only one that seemed to make a difference (it didn't sputter) was the TPS.
Things done so far:
- I replaced the EVAP purge solenoid (P0441 was present) back in february.
- Rubber pieces at charcoal canister also replaced, old ones were rotted to the point my hands would look black just by rubbing against the hoses.
- Upper intake manifold was also replaced by me in november last year.
- New NGK spark plugs and OEM spark plug wires last december.
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, no dice. Used brake clean, no change. It's a reman Cardone from autozone, which tells us it's 90% sure it's broken.
- New Duralast MAP sensor back in 2010 because a mechanic broke the original.
- 10qts transmission fluid and filter replacement 2 weeks ago.
- Fuel pump was also replaced back in 2009 maybe, can't remember the exact year. The old one would start making some kind of a hissing noise after prolonged driving.
NO DTC'S PRESENT. I once checked Mode $06 data with a mid-level scanner I have (AutoXray EZ-scan 6000) and saw a test had failed, I think it said something about the MAF and EGR. IHaven't connected my fuel pressure gauge tester. Since I can smell it running rich, I didn't think it would be necessary. I'm thinking that there could be a problem with the EVAP system that's causing the excessive pressure in the tank but I'm not sure what that could be. Is there any chance that the pressure is also causing the rich mixture?
The Power Steering Reservoir has a small leak that makes the area under it looks oily and messy, so i followed a member's DIY PS flush, I used Walmart Supertech ATF Dexll/lll fluid but now I am thinking about using Mobil1 Synthetic ATF once I get the reservoir out.
The new red color shoes the leak is coming from the edge of the connection between the top and bottom plastic parts of the reservoir.
so my questions are:
1- How do i remove/pry or pop the reservoir out of its bracket?
2- Can i use JB Weld epoxy to glue/reinforce them parts together or just pick a used one from junkyard?
and last question: What size ID/OD is the PS fluid low pressure hose?
I have a 1989 Honda Accord DX with less than 120k miles. I have two problems.
1) the low pressure hose for the power steering has worn out and is leaking by the fittings (badly) and I can't find the parts to fix it. The high pressure hose was also leaking but we found and replaced that part, and
2) I accidentally topped off the power steering reservoir with brake fluid (this was after I already knew the leaks existed).
So, I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Orvis edition) with about 270,000 miles. It still runs great and has been really useful in the snow this winter. A couple days ago the power steering pressure hose blew. My mechanic wants to replace it, but I can get a replacement hose locally. Is there any reason I shouldn't just do this myself. Do I need to worry about the fluid sprayed around the engine? The serpentine belt is only a few months old and squeaked only a little on the three mile drive to get it home.
View 8 RepliesMy high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
View 14 RepliesI have a 97 Grand Prix GTP with 191,000+ miles. For the past couple of months, I have had a loud groaning sound coming from somewhere under the hood when I steer the car in either direction. This groaning is most noticeable at idle or very low speeds and when the car is first started up in the morning. It seems to get less noticeable at higher speeds and after the car has warmed up a while. Over the past few days, at idle/low speed and when cold, there is now more resistance when steering in either direction. Power steering pump or rack and pinion? (Hoping this is more PS pump than rack and pinion). The rack and pinion was replaced in 2009.
View 2 RepliesHow to remove the "high pressure" power steering hose. I have drained the fluid, disconnected from the pump, and also from the rack. Removed the center clamp, and got it all "loose". However, I cannot seem to figure out how to "fish" the hose out. There is a long piece of metal tubing that connects into the rack, and it seems to be resting above some cross member that is not removable. Went to the library, and searched the AllData Online manuals. On the "How to replace the High Pressure Hose" page, it only showed a diagram of the power steering system, with no written description on how to remove the hose. I am not on a lift, but jacked up and supported and on my back under the car with the right wheel removed. I am stumped, and the new hose is due to arrive soon.
View 2 RepliesJust had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
View 4 RepliesI have an 07 Camry with a hard to turn steering wheel. I had to replace the high pressure hose from the rack due to a leak. After that I basically bled the system as one would do under normal circumstances. With the cars front wheels off the ground I turned the wheel hard left and right. The wheel did give a bit but not to the point of perfection. After many turns I put the vehicle on the ground and repeated the process. The fluid no longer leaked but the stiffness was still there.
The hose was replaced at 110,000 miles. It's currently at 112,000 miles
I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
View 2 Replies2001 F150 Supercrew 5.4L ... Dealership unable to locate replacement pressure hose for power steering . I've returned 3 wrong parts. The hose in pic goes all the way up to the reservoir.
View 13 RepliesI just recently had a new pressure hose (had a leak) replaced on the power steering pump but there is a slight squeaking noise when I turn the wheel. the mechanic says it'll go away after a week or so because of the new fluid that was put in? Is this correct?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?
I have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP and the AC just stopped working. The fan blows but i don't get any cold air. I have noticed the AC clutch plate does not move and the relay does not click when the ac is toggled. Long story short, I think I need a wiring diagram for the AC. Here is what I have checked/ruled out so far.
1. When I toggle the AC, the AC clutch relay does not click so i assume there is no power getting to the relay. (I have recently had other wiring issues so I'm guessing its the same case)
2. I swapped the AC clutch relay with the fog lap relay (they are the exact same relay) and the fog laps still worked so i know its not the relay.
3. I have checked the AC fuse and that is fine.
I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+