Grand Prix :: 2005 GP Intermittent Start - Turns Over Well But No Fire
Jan 19, 2016
My 05 GP randomly decides not to start. it turns over well but no fire . Sometimes even when I just stop for gas when its already warm. if I leave it for a few minutes usually it will start, run a little rough for a minute then run fine till next episode. no faults show up. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump relay was acting up.
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I have a 2005 Grand AM SE v6, 3.4 that I had purchased used in 2008 with less than 23,000 miles. It is now at 52,000 miles. My troubles started less than a year after I bought it. In the last 4 years I have viewed just about every forum on the issues I am having, but I have not come across any with the same issues, there is usually a slight difference. Here are the details.
Car has hard starting problems randomly. Engine always turns over but does not always fire. Sometimes it starts right up, other times it takes several attempts. Totally random.
Car randomly shuts off while driving. Just cuts power, no warning..no sounds. No specific speed, totally random.
When starting, with the key in the "on" position, if the "service engine" light DOES come on..the car will start 100 percent of the time. If the "service engine" light does NOT come on, the car WILL NOT start 100% of the time. This is totally random also, but the car will ALWAYS eventually start.
Once the car starts, it runs fine..sometimes it shuts off , sometimes it doesn't. I've had the fuel pump pressure checked ( right up to specs). Replaced the Ignition Module. Replaced the Fuel pump Relay.
No codes come up at all. Both my mechanic and a friend of mine ( and my own observations from reading forums) lead us to believe it is a PCM issue..but another thought I have is possibly the connections (fusible links?)
Is it possible for me to take the PCM to have it tested and would a local mechanic be able to so that or will I have to contact a GM guy?
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Sometimes get a no-start on my car, turn key, nothing have dash lights and headlights, but they do not dim when i turn key, car will also not start in neutral, Had lock cylinder with vats wires replaced, and neutral safety switch was cleaned and adjusted. I even try using remote start and will not with that. this happens every few days or can go a week before problem starts again.
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Thought my transmission was slipping. So I changed the tanny. been driving it for a few days and now it doing the same thing. Is it possible that it a different problem with the same symptoms?
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I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix V6 and for some reason my washer fluid sprayer just stopped working. Yes, the fluid is full...hahaa. So anyways, I checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. What I can check before tearing it apart or bringing it in? How do you know if the motor is bad? Where is the motor located in this car? The wipers are working fine, but it'd be nice to clean the windows.
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
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After driving to the store, I parked for like an hour. i came back outside to start it and it just clicks. i bought an starter from autozone, it didn't work. I took that one back and got one from advanced auto, it didn't work either. Again it justs make a hard click when I attempt to start.
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I have a problem with a Torrent. Still have my old GP with over 400K on it. Anyway, son's Torrent wouldn't turn over so he got a new battery and it still won't turn over. I'm getting 12v to the starter but nothing when he tries to start. Have taken starter off to have it looked at tomorrow. In the meantime, anything else it could be? He just spent a small fortune having head gaskets replaced.
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Yesterday my car ran fine. Today it started running rough when my wife drove it. When I started it to see what was going on it ran very rough. I gave it a little gas and black smoke came out of the tail pipe and now it will not start. I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the car on. I have spare at least at the coil pack to the wires. The check engine light is on but I don't have a tool to read it and I can't start it to go get it read.
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I have a 98 Grand Prix 3.8 with about 170,000 miles on it. Yesterday I tried to start it, and it would crank but not start. Let me provide some background info . . . We had received cold temps and snow recently and the vehicle is parked outside. The car ran fine the day before in colder temps. Yesterday morning I was scooping the snow next to the car and I bumped into it causing the alarm to go off. The horn honked 4 or 5 times and then stopped. Later when I tried to start it, it would just crank. At first I thought it was the fuel pump since I could not hear it. The fuse was fine. I then noticed the DIC was flashing 0 on all modes.
On another thread I saw that is often due to a loss of data between the DCI and PCM. I thought perhaps I tripped the security system when I bumped into it which is preventing it from getting fuel, and perhaps was also causing the DIC to show 0. A GM service tech said to put the key in the run position for 10 minutes then turn it off, and then do this two more times and that should clear the security system and the car should start. I tried it and it did not work. I am starting to think it may be a bad PCM. Stopped at my local Oreillys to check out their code reader, but they no longer check them out to take home. It must be used there.
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Drove 28mi out to dinner and when leaving after, she wouldn't start. Took it to work in the morning, and it ran fine prior to that. It was 15degrees outside, added heat to the gastank thinking the fuel line was frozen. Tryed to fire on, but it would only idle briefly surging while doing so and die, like not enough gas. It did start after I held the key down during this surging process grinding the starter also, should have driven home, but I shut it off like a idiot, as a result, had to tow home. Noticed TCS OFF light was lite up while it was running, then I shut it off, TCS OFF LIGHT went away when I turned key back on to attempt a 2nd restart. After i did that, it wouldn't fire on again. Towed to my house, I do not hear the fuel pump trying to kick on when i turn on the key. Fuel system is dry. Cranked over next day and definitely no gas in the lines. Bled the fuel system, no fuel shot out. Have checked the fuse box and the one under the hood too. Replaced the fuel pump relay but still no go just (this blows)...
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We have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
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2002 Grand Prix, 3.8L na motor, 187K miles. It was running perfectly until 4 days ago. initially, odd gauge stuff and flashing air bag light, then very, very slight engine skip with the tach gauge flipping around. 2 days ago, harder than usual starts ( a couple of seconds cranking instead of instant starts ), 1 day go, longer cranking in the morning, worse stuttering at highway speed. Afternoon, very hard start, stuttering right away, and then it would hardly start and quit after seconds. Gauges flipping and relays buzzing under the dash.
I had it towed home. Moving the key to run I didn't hear the fuel pump running. Checked the pressure at the rail, zero pressure. I removed the relay and jumped it to run the pump at high pressure. Fuel pump ran, pressure was 50-60lbs. Reinserted the relay, tried to start it and no change. I couldn't hear the pump running. Removed the relay and jumped the pump again, left it running and tried starting the car. Also no start.
I'm thinking it may have something to do with the ignition switch, PK3 system, BCM or PCM although I'm not sure which way to go with testing. I'm going to re-check the fuel pump and then start taking ignition switch out.
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I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix (3.8) and when i was driving my car randomly shut off. When i tried to start it again, the car would start, rev a 1000 RPMs then dies a second later. If i pump the gas i can keep it running at around 2000 RPMs until i let my foot off the gas, then it dies After repeated attempts the tow truck was in need. the following day i ran some tests. when starting the car the fuel pressure would stay between 40-50 psi and doesnt drop below that. (excludes fuel pump, filter, etc..)
After running tests the car suddenly started up and continued to run with the rpm bouncing (+/- 100 rpm) i let the car run for 10 minutes and it began running perfectly. This has happened repeatedly in the past 3 days. I have noticed that when letting the car sit while runnig, it will usually die within 2 minutes, however if I am driving. It will sometimes be fine for hours. When attempting to start it by hitting the gas, the car will sometime sputter at 300 RPMs when hitting the gas will do nothing. in some situations i will hit the gas and the rpms will decrease and rise randomly. (letting my foot off the gas, rpms will hesitate before reducing).
When the car dies, i am at times able to get it running after spending 30 min fiddling with it. But half the time it wont start. I have a -P0107 and P0108, codes for high input and output of the MAP sensor. When i unplug the sensor it seems to have minimal effect to the running condition of the car. When i unplug it at times the car will keep a steady rpm while hitting the gas and the car acts no different when i unplug the sensor when the car is running well. I ordered a new MAP sensor which should arrive today so i can see if that is the problem.
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2005 Bonneville SE. 3.8 liter V6 46,000 miles.
I just purchased the car in September of 2013 and it's in great shape. Over the past couple of months, I have noticed every once in a while, it won't fire right away after turning over. To get it to start, I have to press down on the accelerator once or twice while cranking. The problem seems to occur when the engine is relatively warm. It seems to have no issues after the car has been sitting over night.
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I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.
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My 2004 Grand Prix has a intermittent start no start condition. If I turn the key on and the radio and dash work it will not start or even turn over. Most times when trying to start it the only light that turns on is the check engine light. Some times I have to turn the key off and then to the start position a dozen times before the starter will engage. Then it runs normal and can be driven but the entire dash does not work except for the check engine light. At this time the radio and information display do not work either. Everything else works as it should. I cleaned the battery connections and installed a new battery. I also tried a new Ignition switch. Checked all my fuses and they seem to be good. Cleaned the ground below the battery and the two on transmission. I can always get it started but it would be nice If I could tell how fast I am going. Maybe try bcm next.
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One month ago. I am at a store and it won't start. Turns over for a second but wont fire up. Waited a while and it finally did. Took to auto parts place and we went over all that it might be. I checked the button on the passenger side and it was down as it should be. I replaced fuel fuse 48 in the box under hood. All was well for a week
3 weeks ago again wont start but this time it will turn over and over and over. Waited again and it cranked. Went back to auto place dude said maybe the ground to the computer. So I put a neg ground on it to the frame. Worked for a few days.
1 week ago Again cranks but wont fire. I take it to the ford house expecting expensive sex. They kept it for 2 days and it cranked all the time. They told me it had to not start so they could get a code. Check engine light has never come on. Even when it wont crank. I got truck and went to eat. And yes then it wont crank. Waited and had another marg and it finally cranked but you could smell gas like it was flooded. Took it home.
Today I took it down to auto place and tested fuel pressure. 60 psi no problems. grrrrrrr well maybe it ain't fuel pump. I have to have a truck I can rely on. I have football playoffs coming up and I travel a lot. It has a brand new interstate battery. I put Lucas gas treatment in tank. Dude at auto place said it would clear fuel line and lube fuel pump? It was 10 bucks for big bottle so I figured it couldn't hurt.
If its 10 at night and I am at a game shooting THEN Im sure it wont start.
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1998 F150 with 4.6L Windsor SOHC. I just completely rebuilt the engine including pistons, rings, timing chains (timing is good; compression @ 180 psi), 2 new coils, wires, plugs etc. and there's no fire at the plugs when I crank it. It turns over good but doesn't start. The fuel pump comes on and there's fuel up to the injectors. Before I disassembled the engine, it still ran good except for one piston. The 2 new coils, wires, plugs were replace before I rebuilt it. I was very thorough when re-installing the electrical etc... and triple checked it all after the engine not firing. Fuses are good. I know it's hard to trouble shoot without seeing the truck? The battery has been disconnected for months as I started a long time ago. Computer maybe?
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My 2002 Grand AM turns over like it wants to start but dies right away. Head lights and all work good but right off dome light, radio, and electric car door locks didn't work. After reading and trying the security bypass by putting the key to ON etc., many tries I did finally kill the battery. Jumped it for quite a while and same issue.
The security light has been on for years with no issue but doesn't narrow down if it is the bypass problem since it stays on but the other electric items not working at the same time has me perplexed.
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I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
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