The engine cranks and turns over when I turn the key, but won't stay running unless I give it some gas. My mechanic doesn't know what's wrong with it, but I haven't starting having him replace parts. What's going wrong. Could it be the fuel filter? fuel pump?
View 9 RepliesMy 2004 Grand Prix has a intermittent start no start condition. If I turn the key on and the radio and dash work it will not start or even turn over. Most times when trying to start it the only light that turns on is the check engine light. Some times I have to turn the key off and then to the start position a dozen times before the starter will engage. Then it runs normal and can be driven but the entire dash does not work except for the check engine light. At this time the radio and information display do not work either. Everything else works as it should. I cleaned the battery connections and installed a new battery. I also tried a new Ignition switch. Checked all my fuses and they seem to be good. Cleaned the ground below the battery and the two on transmission. I can always get it started but it would be nice If I could tell how fast I am going. Maybe try bcm next.
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 Grand Prix 3.8 with about 170,000 miles on it. Yesterday I tried to start it, and it would crank but not start. Let me provide some background info . . . We had received cold temps and snow recently and the vehicle is parked outside. The car ran fine the day before in colder temps. Yesterday morning I was scooping the snow next to the car and I bumped into it causing the alarm to go off. The horn honked 4 or 5 times and then stopped. Later when I tried to start it, it would just crank. At first I thought it was the fuel pump since I could not hear it. The fuse was fine. I then noticed the DIC was flashing 0 on all modes.
On another thread I saw that is often due to a loss of data between the DCI and PCM. I thought perhaps I tripped the security system when I bumped into it which is preventing it from getting fuel, and perhaps was also causing the DIC to show 0. A GM service tech said to put the key in the run position for 10 minutes then turn it off, and then do this two more times and that should clear the security system and the car should start. I tried it and it did not work. I am starting to think it may be a bad PCM. Stopped at my local Oreillys to check out their code reader, but they no longer check them out to take home. It must be used there.
I have a 95 Grand Prix 3.1L and I can't turn my key. You can put it in and take it out, but it won't turn whatsoever. It's stuck in my driveway and I've tried just about everything to get it to turn.
View 1 RepliesWhen I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with a Torrent. Still have my old GP with over 400K on it. Anyway, son's Torrent wouldn't turn over so he got a new battery and it still won't turn over. I'm getting 12v to the starter but nothing when he tries to start. Have taken starter off to have it looked at tomorrow. In the meantime, anything else it could be? He just spent a small fortune having head gaskets replaced.
View 14 RepliesI'm on my second A1 Cardone rack & pinion in six months. The first one had bad outer tie rod ends and this one is very hard to turn at slow speed like pulling out of a parking space. I would highly recommend using a ACDelco rack & pinion.
View 5 RepliesI'm having this weird problem with my car, 90% of the time it will start to run rich, until it reaches normal temp, to the point that I can smell it coming out from the exhaust. LTFT is at around -15% and it seems to go down after cruising for some time but will go back to negative at idle. My first suspect was the FPR so I checked it and found no gas smell on the vacuum hose, then I decided to run the engine with the vacuum hose disconnected and see if any fuel would come out, 5 minutes later and it was still dry.
There is a chance that the MAF sensor is bad, I'm 90% sure it is, because it will sometimes read 2.9-3.1 gps at idle and according to the rule of thumb of 1gps per liter of displacement, it shouldn't go that low but I might be wrong about it; I disconnected the MAF and the smell was still there, today while driving it was reading 5.45gps (A/C was on) and the smell was still present; car also feels sluggish from time to time only at normal operating temperature (which I assume is because of it running rich).
There is also a vibration felt through the steering wheel only while idling in gear at all temps. Today when I got home and after I turned off the engine I heard a noise like water was running. It was coming from the car so I tried to find where the noise was coming from and it's from the fuel tank. I removed the fuel cap and lots of air came out (or sucked in?). I reinstalled the cap and pressure started to build up almost immediately! I have a video, which I'm sharing, so you can see what I'm talking about; I was even able to hear the fuel tank expanding because of the pressure inside, not sure if you can hear it towards the end of the video (when I put the phone under the car). [URL] .....
It also happened today that I was cruising and the engine hit the rev limiter after I stepped on the gas (WOT) to overtake another car. I immediately removed the foot from the pedal and gave it less gas and it acted normal, no slipping from the transmission at any other time. There is one more thing that I'm not sure about it. Every morning, the engine will sputter for 1 or 2 seconds after starting it but it will be fine for the rest of the day. I once tried disconnecting different sensors from the engine and the only one that seemed to make a difference (it didn't sputter) was the TPS.
Things done so far:
- I replaced the EVAP purge solenoid (P0441 was present) back in february.
- Rubber pieces at charcoal canister also replaced, old ones were rotted to the point my hands would look black just by rubbing against the hoses.
- Upper intake manifold was also replaced by me in november last year.
- New NGK spark plugs and OEM spark plug wires last december.
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, no dice. Used brake clean, no change. It's a reman Cardone from autozone, which tells us it's 90% sure it's broken.
- New Duralast MAP sensor back in 2010 because a mechanic broke the original.
- 10qts transmission fluid and filter replacement 2 weeks ago.
- Fuel pump was also replaced back in 2009 maybe, can't remember the exact year. The old one would start making some kind of a hissing noise after prolonged driving.
NO DTC'S PRESENT. I once checked Mode $06 data with a mid-level scanner I have (AutoXray EZ-scan 6000) and saw a test had failed, I think it said something about the MAF and EGR. IHaven't connected my fuel pressure gauge tester. Since I can smell it running rich, I didn't think it would be necessary. I'm thinking that there could be a problem with the EVAP system that's causing the excessive pressure in the tank but I'm not sure what that could be. Is there any chance that the pressure is also causing the rich mixture?
I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
View 13 RepliesWhen you are accelerating anywhere from half to full throttle it may cut out at any given time. The RPM will drop down, it may bounce up and down for a bit and recover, or it will drop all the way down and stall. If you let off the gas it may or may not recover. If it stalls so far from the tests I have done if you never shut the key off it will never restart again. If you shut the key off and wait from 5 to 10 minutes it will all of a sudden restart normally like nothing ever happened. If you try to restart it immediately even if you shut the key off and back on it will not start.
When it does not start when I am attempting to start: Fuel pressure according to my gauge is between 55 and 60 psi. Inline spark tester shows that it is getting a spark. Engine sounds normal while cranking so in other words compression sounds normal. I have an LED test light rigged up showing when an injector fires, and it does show electrical activity going to the injector when it opens (flashes). Only clue is that it SEEMS dimmer when it wont start, but I have no clue if thats how it normally is on start up. Its only a slight difference from the brightness of a normal idle brightness. I have a snap on scanner hooked up, nothing that I know of looks abnormal in the data and it will not throw codes when this happens.
Parts I have changed or cleaned so far: Changed the fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module, and MAF sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. When the car is working normally it runs strong, good power, smooth. Starts great normally.
2004 GTP. I have recently replaced the condenser, drier, compressor......
My issue is that my compressor only works when jumped. I checked the relay and 10 amp fuse located in the engine bay fuse box and both seem fine. I replaced the pressure switch and put a new pressure switch connector on it. I got it to take a full charge by jumping the compressor. It blows very cold when jumped. The outside temperature on the dash is reading correctly.
I have a 2004 Grand Prix GT. What all the fuse under the hood labeled Battery Main 4 supplies power to. Both my HVAC fan and the HUD display won't work. What I should start checking.
View 1 RepliesI am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
I've been fixing things here and there (hub bearing, struts, etc.). My latest repair is the water pump, it was howling for a few seconds during cold starts; I just replaced it today, hopefully this unit lasts for a long time.
A few days ago, I noticed this hissing noise after I turn the engine off at normal temp. Since there was a leak from the radiator drain, I thought that was it and didn't care about it. I just installed a new o-ring on the drain cock along with the new water pump. Test drove the car and it turns out the noise is still there, is it normal or not, I didn't put much attention before.
The noise can be heard from underneath and above the engine, it kinda seems to be coming from the intake BUT I find it weird since I installed a new upper intake manifold in november of 2013. It's a Dorman unit and I followed all the instructions from the kit and the workshop manual. Lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced back in november 2009 after the engine was rebuilt because of a cracked head (not sure what type did the mechanic use, back then I didn't know much about repairs). It's hard to believe that these gaskets have failed already. I also replaced the coolant elbow almost two years ago after the belt tensioner assembly failed.
I have a 91 pontiac Grand Prix with a 3.1 and the car has NO leaks, however, I have noticed that the transmission fluid level go down and the engine oil goes up. My conclusion is that some how the tranny fluid is crossing over to the engine, is this possible? and if it is, how or where?
NOTE: my car has a tranny cooling line to the radiator but no engine oil cooling lines and the colant is clean. how is it possible?
Where the fuse that controls oxygen sensors on a 1997 pontiac grand prix 3.8L engine? i read some where it is under hood fuse panel, but what is the marking for the fuse?
View 2 RepliesIn my 2004 Comp G I have an extremely loud clunk when braking. The braking clunk does not happen all the time. There is a clunk while having the car in reverse and power braking it. While holding down the brake and revving hard and fast it make the loud clunk every time. It will not do it all the time in drive though. I can not pin point which side it is coming from. It sounds as if it is mostly the right. It almost sounds as if it is coming from inside the trans near the pan area?
I have replaced the lower control arms, sway bar bushings, stab links, struts & mounts, I have solid engine and trans and top mounts, new inner and outer tie rods, all wheel bearings, etc.... (not for this issue, just for performance/wear).
I am torn between thinking it is a cv axle or internal drive train noise.
I have a new car now, 2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G, got it at 88k and it now has 167k. Nearly no problems other than routine maintenance, but here I am with an issue I can't seem to figure out.
A few weeks ago, I blew a tire on the highway, ended up getting 2 new tires put on the front and moved the fronts to the back. Tires were then rebalanced and the alignment straightened out.
The guys at the shop said the front tie end rod needed replaced, but I'm pretty sure they were trying to make extra money off a new customer because my bill was going from tires/alignment to tires/alignment, bearings, tie end rods, and speed sensors.
Now, on to my issue. When I'm driving on the interstate, I notice a humming sound that seems to come from the front passenger wheel between 68-80mph. Soon as I go over 80 or under 68, it's gone. I noticed that the noise lessened when I veered to the right, so I assumed it was the bearing.
Took the car to my usual shop, had the bearings checked, got the front driver bearing replaced under warranty. Mechanic said the passenger bearing seemed fine. Got it on the highway again today, noise is still there.
3.8SuperPacer
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G with Ram Air
1998 Grand Prix GTP 40th Anniversary Daytona 500 Pace Car Edition
This has happened to me twice now, 2 weeks between occurrences:
Driving to work, about 10 minutes into the trip - traction control light comes on, "Reduced engine power" message appears on DIC, and check engine light comes on.
The car is an '08 Prix, no charger, with 51K on it. This is actually the first trouble I've had with the car since it left the dealer lot.
I pull over, turn car off. Turn back on - traction light goes out, and engine is running at full power. The check engine light remains on for about 5 starts/stops then goes away.
I haven't had the engine scanned yet. The only thread here I could find recommended replacing the throttle body. The person decided to clean the throttle body, and that was the last post.
I was thinking of removing the individual electronic components from the TB and cleaning them and the area around them in the TB. (I have the sensor-safe cleaner for TB's).
I don't think this error condition would be a warranty issue, but I'm not sure. It's a MAJOR hassle for me to get the car to the dealer.
My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.