Grand Prix :: 2002 Starts But Stalls After PW Switch Replacement
Dec 7, 2013
My son had the car and put the window down and it would not go back up. Had to drive 13 miles in below zero temperatures to get home. After searching online and doing some checking on the vehicle we found that the Driver's PW switch was dead. Went and got a used switch and replaced it and the window works find. SO, the husband goes to start it and the battery is dead so he put a charger on it and it did start but it stalls right away. It will stay running if you have your foot on the gas but as soon as you let off it stalls. If it idles at all before it dies it it does so erratically.
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I have a 97 grand prix GTP that I am replacing the ignition switch on. I am having trouble locating the small hole on the key cylinder that I put an allen wrench into to release the key cylinder.
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2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.
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We had 3 windows stop working but the drivers window locks and mirror adj all work. the 3 passenger windows don't work on the doors or the master switch. just bought a new master switch thinking it was the lock out on the master switch, well no change!! windows still don't work ?
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I bought my 2001 Grand Prix with a 3.8 liter (non supercharged) earlier this year. Within the first month, the check engine light came on with a P0410 code. Took it to the shop here at the auction that I work at to get repaired. He ran the diagnostics on it and found that the air pump wasn't working. He pulled it out and it was full of water, due to the air inlet being so low. So, he replaced the air pump and re routed the air inlet so that it was higher up into the engine compartment. That same night, the light came back on, so I brought it back in the next day. The relay failed and popped the fuse. Replaced both, and the light was off for a full day.
Got ready to take it in for its emissions test today, and the light came back on again. The air pump is not working, again. Turns out that the previous owner had replaced the air pump twice (once with aftermarket, and once with an OEM unit) because of the water build up and freezing the first time. I am not aware of any GM service bulletins, but there has to be something that is taking out these pumps. The only things not replaced on the secondary air system is the lower check valve and solenoid. So, what could be causing the pumps to fail prematurely?
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When I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
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I have an 2002 GT with a 3.8 in it. Two wires broke on my harness that plugs into the shift solenoid so it will not shift out of park.
I got a new harness and wired it how it was wired before but it is not working when I plug it back in. Is there a way to test the new harness to make sure it works?
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I am looking for step by step instructions with (pictures or video I know sounds corny if not oh well) on how to remove the wiper motor and crank arm. Need to get these taken care of, cause my wipers are stuck in the vertical position. They still work fine just need to be replaced. 2002 Grand Prix GT
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Having an issue with my 2002 GP GT. I started it, but then it died after a couple of seconds while the "Security" light was flashing.
I actually had both original keys with and tried each to no avail (same thing: starts, but engine kills after a few seconds). I checked the PassKey III fuse and even replaced it - still no luck.
Called two different dealer service departments and they suggested turning the key to the "ON" position and leaving it for 15 minutes. I tried this 3 times and still the same issue.
I understand this can be a VERY expensive repair as I've read it requires replacing the ignition module and perhaps the Theft Deterrent Module. How to at least temporarily by-pass or reset the system so I don't have to get it towed (of course it's no where near my place).
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2002 Grand Prix, 3.8L na motor, 187K miles. It was running perfectly until 4 days ago. initially, odd gauge stuff and flashing air bag light, then very, very slight engine skip with the tach gauge flipping around. 2 days ago, harder than usual starts ( a couple of seconds cranking instead of instant starts ), 1 day go, longer cranking in the morning, worse stuttering at highway speed. Afternoon, very hard start, stuttering right away, and then it would hardly start and quit after seconds. Gauges flipping and relays buzzing under the dash.
I had it towed home. Moving the key to run I didn't hear the fuel pump running. Checked the pressure at the rail, zero pressure. I removed the relay and jumped it to run the pump at high pressure. Fuel pump ran, pressure was 50-60lbs. Reinserted the relay, tried to start it and no change. I couldn't hear the pump running. Removed the relay and jumped the pump again, left it running and tried starting the car. Also no start.
I'm thinking it may have something to do with the ignition switch, PK3 system, BCM or PCM although I'm not sure which way to go with testing. I'm going to re-check the fuel pump and then start taking ignition switch out.
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Just took off the throttle body of my 2002 GT to clean it. Had all of the sensors off (IAC, MAF, TPS). Put everything back together and it fired right up but immediately went to 3000 rpm and acted like it would keep climbing.
Thought I was very careful putting everything back together. Obviously the throttle is open but there is no play in the throttle cables. Could it be a sensor?
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My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
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One day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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2002 BMW 325i. It starts then stalls. It stalled in the middle of the road the other day while I was going REAL slow. Now it's totally unreliable. If it starts it leaves me stranded. Turn over just fine never engages.
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So the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
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I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
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I have a 02 Saturn sl2 and every time I pump gas, the nozzle will click every few dollars as if my tank is full even when its near empty or half full.
2 weeks ago: I started my engine up and went about a few feet then my engine went dead. My car would crank but not fire up and I wasn't getting a reading on the instrument panel so I figured it was a fuel pump related problem. I took a look at the fuse panel for any fuses that could be blown or in bad shape. The only fuse I pulled out was the PCM-b fuse but upon further inspection, it was good and after that, it started up fine.
Next day: I get gas after work, drive home, grab a few things, start the car up, get a few feet, dies, won't start, its instrument panel reading, pull the same fuse, put the same fuse back, go on my way.
Next week: So I haven't put any gas in my car for a week and it has been working perfectly. I start to get near 1/4 tank so I put another $25 of gas in, started my car up and only got far enough to get away from the pumps when I notice my gas gauge going down, low rpm, and lost power steering. My car then died as I was pulling into a parking space. I did the same little trick and it started up again.
Today: Make a list of reasons why my car is stalling and plan to fix them from cheapest to most expensive. Start with putting gas line antifreeze as I rule out if there is water in my tank or not. ( I meant to put in one with water absorber, but I put a normal bottle in) Start my car up, get to school which is about 6-10km and when I was pulling in I noticed that my gauge was almost empty. I stopped the car and went to start it up again to see if I would get a new reading but my car just cranked. Tried a few more times but it wouldn't start until I did my little pcm-b fuse trick.
Now I am just wondering what you people think could be the problem but this is my conclusions and debates.
Water/Air in the tank - Why would does my car stop giving me an reading on my instrument panel after it stalls.PCM fault -Why does it only happen shortly after I open my gas tank (or maybe coincidence)PCM fuse blew -It works after I put it back inFuel filter clogged or fuel pump blew -why does my car start after I do the fuse trick.
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I have a 95 Grand Prix 3.1L and I can't turn my key. You can put it in and take it out, but it won't turn whatsoever. It's stuck in my driveway and I've tried just about everything to get it to turn.
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I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
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Thought my transmission was slipping. So I changed the tanny. been driving it for a few days and now it doing the same thing. Is it possible that it a different problem with the same symptoms?
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