Grand Prix :: 2002 GT 3.8 - Losing Total Electrical Power Randomly After Starting Engine
Oct 20, 2014
My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
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Was driving one day, and when I came to a stop sign, the car just died.. I couldn't start it up, so I pushed it to the side of the road.. I tried to turn the key again, and it fired right up... No issues for about a week, but then I came outside one morning, and the car was completely dead. No interior lights, dash wouldn't light up, nothing. (no cranking noise when you try to turn the key) I assumed it was because the battery was old, and the car had just been sitting there for about a week without being started up. I was about to give it a jump, but when I opened the door, the lights came on. I put the key in the ignition, the dash lit up, and the car fired right up.. No issues for about a week, until again, came outside, car was completely dead..
I used my other car to run up to the store, and when I came back, decided I would try to start up the DeVille again. Randomly, upon opening the door, the cabin lights lit up, and sure enough, car fired right up... no one had touched the car while I was gone.. I drove the car up to a shop near my house, where they tested the battery, which tested good. Terminals are all clean, and he made note that the ground connection to the car was also firm and clean. He offered to run a diagnostic the following Tuesday for $125. I returned home, drove the car once more over the weekend, but when I went to start the car Monday, it was again, completely dead. It's been over a week now, and I haven't been fortunate enough to get it to start. I again tried this morning in hopes that I would get lucky, but it's still completely dead.
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I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix (3.8) and when i was driving my car randomly shut off. When i tried to start it again, the car would start, rev a 1000 RPMs then dies a second later. If i pump the gas i can keep it running at around 2000 RPMs until i let my foot off the gas, then it dies After repeated attempts the tow truck was in need. the following day i ran some tests. when starting the car the fuel pressure would stay between 40-50 psi and doesnt drop below that. (excludes fuel pump, filter, etc..)
After running tests the car suddenly started up and continued to run with the rpm bouncing (+/- 100 rpm) i let the car run for 10 minutes and it began running perfectly. This has happened repeatedly in the past 3 days. I have noticed that when letting the car sit while runnig, it will usually die within 2 minutes, however if I am driving. It will sometimes be fine for hours. When attempting to start it by hitting the gas, the car will sometime sputter at 300 RPMs when hitting the gas will do nothing. in some situations i will hit the gas and the rpms will decrease and rise randomly. (letting my foot off the gas, rpms will hesitate before reducing).
When the car dies, i am at times able to get it running after spending 30 min fiddling with it. But half the time it wont start. I have a -P0107 and P0108, codes for high input and output of the MAP sensor. When i unplug the sensor it seems to have minimal effect to the running condition of the car. When i unplug it at times the car will keep a steady rpm while hitting the gas and the car acts no different when i unplug the sensor when the car is running well. I ordered a new MAP sensor which should arrive today so i can see if that is the problem.
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This has happened to me twice now, 2 weeks between occurrences:
Driving to work, about 10 minutes into the trip - traction control light comes on, "Reduced engine power" message appears on DIC, and check engine light comes on.
The car is an '08 Prix, no charger, with 51K on it. This is actually the first trouble I've had with the car since it left the dealer lot.
I pull over, turn car off. Turn back on - traction light goes out, and engine is running at full power. The check engine light remains on for about 5 starts/stops then goes away.
I haven't had the engine scanned yet. The only thread here I could find recommended replacing the throttle body. The person decided to clean the throttle body, and that was the last post.
I was thinking of removing the individual electronic components from the TB and cleaning them and the area around them in the TB. (I have the sensor-safe cleaner for TB's).
I don't think this error condition would be a warranty issue, but I'm not sure. It's a MAJOR hassle for me to get the car to the dealer.
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I have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
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When I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
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I have an 2002 GT with a 3.8 in it. Two wires broke on my harness that plugs into the shift solenoid so it will not shift out of park.
I got a new harness and wired it how it was wired before but it is not working when I plug it back in. Is there a way to test the new harness to make sure it works?
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I am looking for step by step instructions with (pictures or video I know sounds corny if not oh well) on how to remove the wiper motor and crank arm. Need to get these taken care of, cause my wipers are stuck in the vertical position. They still work fine just need to be replaced. 2002 Grand Prix GT
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2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.
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My son had the car and put the window down and it would not go back up. Had to drive 13 miles in below zero temperatures to get home. After searching online and doing some checking on the vehicle we found that the Driver's PW switch was dead. Went and got a used switch and replaced it and the window works find. SO, the husband goes to start it and the battery is dead so he put a charger on it and it did start but it stalls right away. It will stay running if you have your foot on the gas but as soon as you let off it stalls. If it idles at all before it dies it it does so erratically.
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Having an issue with my 2002 GP GT. I started it, but then it died after a couple of seconds while the "Security" light was flashing.
I actually had both original keys with and tried each to no avail (same thing: starts, but engine kills after a few seconds). I checked the PassKey III fuse and even replaced it - still no luck.
Called two different dealer service departments and they suggested turning the key to the "ON" position and leaving it for 15 minutes. I tried this 3 times and still the same issue.
I understand this can be a VERY expensive repair as I've read it requires replacing the ignition module and perhaps the Theft Deterrent Module. How to at least temporarily by-pass or reset the system so I don't have to get it towed (of course it's no where near my place).
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2002 Grand Prix, 3.8L na motor, 187K miles. It was running perfectly until 4 days ago. initially, odd gauge stuff and flashing air bag light, then very, very slight engine skip with the tach gauge flipping around. 2 days ago, harder than usual starts ( a couple of seconds cranking instead of instant starts ), 1 day go, longer cranking in the morning, worse stuttering at highway speed. Afternoon, very hard start, stuttering right away, and then it would hardly start and quit after seconds. Gauges flipping and relays buzzing under the dash.
I had it towed home. Moving the key to run I didn't hear the fuel pump running. Checked the pressure at the rail, zero pressure. I removed the relay and jumped it to run the pump at high pressure. Fuel pump ran, pressure was 50-60lbs. Reinserted the relay, tried to start it and no change. I couldn't hear the pump running. Removed the relay and jumped the pump again, left it running and tried starting the car. Also no start.
I'm thinking it may have something to do with the ignition switch, PK3 system, BCM or PCM although I'm not sure which way to go with testing. I'm going to re-check the fuel pump and then start taking ignition switch out.
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Just took off the throttle body of my 2002 GT to clean it. Had all of the sensors off (IAC, MAF, TPS). Put everything back together and it fired right up but immediately went to 3000 rpm and acted like it would keep climbing.
Thought I was very careful putting everything back together. Obviously the throttle is open but there is no play in the throttle cables. Could it be a sensor?
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We had 3 windows stop working but the drivers window locks and mirror adj all work. the 3 passenger windows don't work on the doors or the master switch. just bought a new master switch thinking it was the lock out on the master switch, well no change!! windows still don't work ?
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One day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
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I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
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I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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Just replaced power steering pressure hose while engine out as PM. New hose wasn't correct shape so I bent the tubing to fit. I later realized that I bought a hose for power steering without variable assist and the hose for variable assist looks correct.
Is there any harm in leaving the "w/o variable assist" hose in now?
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I am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
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I've been fixing things here and there (hub bearing, struts, etc.). My latest repair is the water pump, it was howling for a few seconds during cold starts; I just replaced it today, hopefully this unit lasts for a long time.
A few days ago, I noticed this hissing noise after I turn the engine off at normal temp. Since there was a leak from the radiator drain, I thought that was it and didn't care about it. I just installed a new o-ring on the drain cock along with the new water pump. Test drove the car and it turns out the noise is still there, is it normal or not, I didn't put much attention before.
The noise can be heard from underneath and above the engine, it kinda seems to be coming from the intake BUT I find it weird since I installed a new upper intake manifold in november of 2013. It's a Dorman unit and I followed all the instructions from the kit and the workshop manual. Lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced back in november 2009 after the engine was rebuilt because of a cracked head (not sure what type did the mechanic use, back then I didn't know much about repairs). It's hard to believe that these gaskets have failed already. I also replaced the coolant elbow almost two years ago after the belt tensioner assembly failed.
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