Grand Prix :: 2001 Pontiac - Temp Shoots Up As Soon As Hit Stop And Go Traffic
Jun 24, 2015
With summer heating up so is the engine. Temp stays normal at freeway speeds but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic it shoots up. Water pump is two years old. I flushed the radiator and didn't get much gunk out. Both fans are running when the AC is on. If I shut the car off but leave the key on the fans do not run when the car is not. I can't remember if they used to or not.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1
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I have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix. The needle on the temp gauge will float up and down after about five mins. of drive time...after a short period of time, however, it will settle around 200 degrees or so. (The heater will not blow warm air while the needle is floating.) The only time the needle starts to rise is when the vehicle is stopped in traffic, but even then, it never gets into the "red." The car never overheats and I have yet to see any coolant on the driveway.
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I just changed my fuel filter and now I am having issues with the idle/accelator. When I get the car going to a speed of 40mph for example, I let off the gas and the speed barely drops. Then when I went down a side street about 20 mph, I let off the gas and the car just kept going. The idle was initally high, but then dropped down to it's normal 800rpm.
The only thing I touched under the hood was releasing the pressure from the fuel pressure regulator before the fuel filter change. I just removed the idle control unit and cleaned it but that didn't work.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT/3.8L
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I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
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When I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
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The grand prix is stalling at different times when driving, I cleaned mass air flow sensor. still has same issue, car stalls and have to put in neutral and start while driving.
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I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix V6 and for some reason my washer fluid sprayer just stopped working. Yes, the fluid is full...hahaa. So anyways, I checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. What I can check before tearing it apart or bringing it in? How do you know if the motor is bad? Where is the motor located in this car? The wipers are working fine, but it'd be nice to clean the windows.
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I have a 91 pontiac Grand Prix with a 3.1 and the car has NO leaks, however, I have noticed that the transmission fluid level go down and the engine oil goes up. My conclusion is that some how the tranny fluid is crossing over to the engine, is this possible? and if it is, how or where?
NOTE: my car has a tranny cooling line to the radiator but no engine oil cooling lines and the colant is clean. how is it possible?
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Where the fuse that controls oxygen sensors on a 1997 pontiac grand prix 3.8L engine? i read some where it is under hood fuse panel, but what is the marking for the fuse?
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I am getting a thumping noise from front tires,can't really tell which side? as i turn to left it seems to stops until i straighten wheels.
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Drove 28mi out to dinner and when leaving after, she wouldn't start. Took it to work in the morning, and it ran fine prior to that. It was 15degrees outside, added heat to the gastank thinking the fuel line was frozen. Tryed to fire on, but it would only idle briefly surging while doing so and die, like not enough gas. It did start after I held the key down during this surging process grinding the starter also, should have driven home, but I shut it off like a idiot, as a result, had to tow home. Noticed TCS OFF light was lite up while it was running, then I shut it off, TCS OFF LIGHT went away when I turned key back on to attempt a 2nd restart. After i did that, it wouldn't fire on again. Towed to my house, I do not hear the fuel pump trying to kick on when i turn on the key. Fuel system is dry. Cranked over next day and definitely no gas in the lines. Bled the fuel system, no fuel shot out. Have checked the fuse box and the one under the hood too. Replaced the fuel pump relay but still no go just (this blows)...
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We have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
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2002 Grand Prix, 3.8L na motor, 187K miles. It was running perfectly until 4 days ago. initially, odd gauge stuff and flashing air bag light, then very, very slight engine skip with the tach gauge flipping around. 2 days ago, harder than usual starts ( a couple of seconds cranking instead of instant starts ), 1 day go, longer cranking in the morning, worse stuttering at highway speed. Afternoon, very hard start, stuttering right away, and then it would hardly start and quit after seconds. Gauges flipping and relays buzzing under the dash.
I had it towed home. Moving the key to run I didn't hear the fuel pump running. Checked the pressure at the rail, zero pressure. I removed the relay and jumped it to run the pump at high pressure. Fuel pump ran, pressure was 50-60lbs. Reinserted the relay, tried to start it and no change. I couldn't hear the pump running. Removed the relay and jumped the pump again, left it running and tried starting the car. Also no start.
I'm thinking it may have something to do with the ignition switch, PK3 system, BCM or PCM although I'm not sure which way to go with testing. I'm going to re-check the fuel pump and then start taking ignition switch out.
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One day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
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I have a 2001 Grand Prix SE 3.1 that the brake pedal goes to the floor. I did notice the fluid was low , filled it up. I do not think it sucked air, although I can not be sure of that. As you can imagine, it is a beater so don't want to stick a ton of money in it. I had someone look at it that said he thought it was a "sensor" that would cost over 500 bucks. I don't know of any brake sensors at all. If there is, do they cost that much? If not would this be a master cylinder.
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I have a '98 GPGT 2 door and just over this past winter the doors started to bind with the fenders. Is there a fix to this? I am afraid soon it will get so bad that it will bend the fender in. ( that happened to my wives '01 GP ).....
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am, it has a V6. I live in AZ, so right now its like 110 outside and my ac will work fine when i am driving but when i stop at a stoplight it starts blowing hot but when I start driving again it takes about a minute and then it will blow cold again and it does this same thing at every stoplight, but if the car is just idling in my yard with the ac on it blows cold it doesn't do this, I thought maybe it was low on freon and bought a can of ac pro with a gauge and when i checked the pressure it went into the red so it says not to add any, and contact a mechanic. But what may be wrong with it first, I replaced the ac compressor 2 years ago. A couple of days ago I replaced all the radiator hoses and the radiator and the coolant tank and of course added the right amount of dexcool. The car is not getting hot, the problem is just with the ac ,
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Over the past month, my car has been hesitating in 3/4 gear right around the 1900-2200 RPM range. The tach moves up and down (like a rev limiter) between that RPM range for a few seconds then it is okay. I notice it mostly when I get on the expressway. The car has 185000 miles and here is a list of things that I have replaced along with the mileage that I think might possibly be the issue:
Mass Air Sensor -163000
Tune up - 160000 (Plugs + Wires)
Fuel Filter - 145000
I checked through the forums and didn't see my particular issue. Thoughts on the issue?
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, 3/8L non supercharged.
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I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am se that was overheating and I found out that it had a blown headgasket and the fuel pump was going out. So I changed the head gasket and fuel pump. After all that I proceeded to start it but all it did was crank and not start. I did Research on the passlock and bypassed it and the security light stopped blinking and went away but all it did was crank and not start. Could the timing be off and cause it not to start? It gets correct ammout of fuel and correct compression? Also the timing chain is loose enough for me to jiggle it.
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I have a 2001 Poniac Grand Am Gt v6 2 door and yesterday I was about to start my car it did made that noise when its going start but it didn't so I notice the SECURITY flashing! i made some research it has to do with the pass lock?
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My lovely little 99 Forester was running fine up until about 6 weeks ago. Now it has always burned oil and my dealership gave the the run around saying it was "normal". Fine, so I've driven around with quarts of oil in my car for the last 8 years, and I dump a quart in every 500 miles. Every time I bring it into for oil changes them I've told them it burns oil.So 6 weeks ago, I start the car and no heat. The temp gauge shoots up to H and then the heat kicks on and the temp gauge goes immediately back down to N. I call the dealership - they say the thermostat is sticking and I'm find to drive it - I get an appt for 2 weeks later.
2 weeks later, car is in the shop and I'm told because I've been driving the car and its been overheating the headgasket is cracked. So I pay the $1,700 to repair it and replace the timing belt and temp gauge.I pick up the car and it is running WORSE than it was when I brought it in with the cracked headgasket and sticking temperature gauge. I call the dealership from the traffic signal up the road. They schedule another appt for a week later.
Week later I bring the car in and the oil light blinks on as I'm driving car into their driveway. Get a call the next day saying I need a new shortblock and it will be $3,000.I meet with dealership and tell them 1) they should have checked the engine/cylinders when they replaced the headgasket and 2) I'm not repaying them to do the headgaskets twice basically.
So they tell me they are crediting me for the headgasket repair job. And get this - the price is $3,000. It actually is $5,000, but they are crediting the headgasket repair job to that.I'm just disguisted and furious at this point. Car has 140,000 miles, and I'm really anal about changing the oil every 3,000 miles - despite the fact since 12,000 miles the car has been having 6 new quarts of oil dumped into it between changes.They are telling me "its my fault" the cylinders are bad because I allowed the engine to run repeatedly overheated.
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