Grand Prix :: 2001 - Hesitation At 1900 - 2200 RPM Range In 3/4 Gear
Oct 25, 2013
Over the past month, my car has been hesitating in 3/4 gear right around the 1900-2200 RPM range. The tach moves up and down (like a rev limiter) between that RPM range for a few seconds then it is okay. I notice it mostly when I get on the expressway. The car has 185000 miles and here is a list of things that I have replaced along with the mileage that I think might possibly be the issue:
Mass Air Sensor -163000
Tune up - 160000 (Plugs + Wires)
Fuel Filter - 145000
I checked through the forums and didn't see my particular issue. Thoughts on the issue?
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, 3/8L non supercharged.
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What may be causing my car to harshly shift fron 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd the 3rd. One solution some one had was to replace the:
"TPS (throttle position sensor). The other reason for hard shift is a worn Boost valve and will need to be replaced, or a faulty transmission fluid EPC (electronic pressures control valve). Both Boost valve and EPC are located in the Valve Body and can be replaced with out dropping the valve body, but have to drop the transmission pan".
I did just recently top off the tranny fluid because it was running a bit low but there is no leak....
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I've tolerated having to release my key with the manual push button for years. Now the interior is disassembled (after replacing evap core) so I'm looking into fixing the BTSI.
I've never been clear on whether the problem is in the console by the gear shift or in the steering column. The thing is in the steering and has a solenoid that will mechanically allow the key to turn to the LOCK position when energized. The manual release is at the bottom.
I connected the leads of that white thing to battery voltage and sure enough, the post retracts. So that seems to work. However, when connected to the car wiring, there is not enough voltage to retract. It retract, it will hold. I concluded the problem is near the gear shift. Probing the lead (with the white thing disconnected) indicate battery voltage, but that's without any current.
Battery voltage is getting to the wiring harness in the console. Probing the leads to the Park switch indicates 90 ohms resistance. I suspect this is too high and causing a big voltage drop so there's not enough to energize the solenoid in the column.
What can be replaced in the console to remedy this? Is it only the park switch?
How is the gear shift knob removed? I see a slit in the back of the knob, but don't know how the mechanism works.
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I have a 2001 Grand Prix SE 3.1 that the brake pedal goes to the floor. I did notice the fluid was low , filled it up. I do not think it sucked air, although I can not be sure of that. As you can imagine, it is a beater so don't want to stick a ton of money in it. I had someone look at it that said he thought it was a "sensor" that would cost over 500 bucks. I don't know of any brake sensors at all. If there is, do they cost that much? If not would this be a master cylinder.
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I have a '98 GPGT 2 door and just over this past winter the doors started to bind with the fenders. Is there a fix to this? I am afraid soon it will get so bad that it will bend the fender in. ( that happened to my wives '01 GP ).....
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With summer heating up so is the engine. Temp stays normal at freeway speeds but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic it shoots up. Water pump is two years old. I flushed the radiator and didn't get much gunk out. Both fans are running when the AC is on. If I shut the car off but leave the key on the fans do not run when the car is not. I can't remember if they used to or not.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1
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I just changed my fuel filter and now I am having issues with the idle/accelator. When I get the car going to a speed of 40mph for example, I let off the gas and the speed barely drops. Then when I went down a side street about 20 mph, I let off the gas and the car just kept going. The idle was initally high, but then dropped down to it's normal 800rpm.
The only thing I touched under the hood was releasing the pressure from the fuel pressure regulator before the fuel filter change. I just removed the idle control unit and cleaned it but that didn't work.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT/3.8L
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The car accelerates unevenly when the rpm is in the range of about 2200 - 2800 rpm. Above that engine speed, it quickly smooths out. I replaced the distributor in it in Jan. 2010 and I'm wondering whether the distributor and/or vacuum advance is the cause of this behavior. I don't know whether the distributor also has a centrifugal advance. If it does, then I guess that could another possible cause.
Could I test the vacuum advance by disconnecting the 2 vacuum lines from the vacuum advance control? How to troubleshoot this behavior?
The distributor was bundled with the vacuum advance control, so I presume I'd be replacing the whole assembly if I can verify that the distributor or vacuum advance control is the problem.
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I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
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I have a 95 Grand Prix 3.1L and I can't turn my key. You can put it in and take it out, but it won't turn whatsoever. It's stuck in my driveway and I've tried just about everything to get it to turn.
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I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
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Thought my transmission was slipping. So I changed the tanny. been driving it for a few days and now it doing the same thing. Is it possible that it a different problem with the same symptoms?
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When I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
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When you are accelerating anywhere from half to full throttle it may cut out at any given time. The RPM will drop down, it may bounce up and down for a bit and recover, or it will drop all the way down and stall. If you let off the gas it may or may not recover. If it stalls so far from the tests I have done if you never shut the key off it will never restart again. If you shut the key off and wait from 5 to 10 minutes it will all of a sudden restart normally like nothing ever happened. If you try to restart it immediately even if you shut the key off and back on it will not start.
When it does not start when I am attempting to start: Fuel pressure according to my gauge is between 55 and 60 psi. Inline spark tester shows that it is getting a spark. Engine sounds normal while cranking so in other words compression sounds normal. I have an LED test light rigged up showing when an injector fires, and it does show electrical activity going to the injector when it opens (flashes). Only clue is that it SEEMS dimmer when it wont start, but I have no clue if thats how it normally is on start up. Its only a slight difference from the brightness of a normal idle brightness. I have a snap on scanner hooked up, nothing that I know of looks abnormal in the data and it will not throw codes when this happens.
Parts I have changed or cleaned so far: Changed the fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module, and MAF sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. When the car is working normally it runs strong, good power, smooth. Starts great normally.
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Last year my a/c worked off and on. so far now its not working at all. Compressor isn't kicking on. i bought a bottle of the EZchill refrigerant to recharge the system. I took the relay out and added 12+ to the pin to kick on the compressor. Even with the compressor running the gauges are in the blue range which is the normal operating range. With the compressor running, the air is cold but when i stick the relay back in the compressor wont kick back on. I tested the relay and its fine. Also the compressor is rattling.
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Last weekend, I saw fluid under the right side of the car when in a parking lot and found a rather large puddle of almost clear, oily fluid on the garage floor when I got home. I figured it was power steering fluid. I just finished a rebuild a couple months ago but the old power steering pump wasn't changed, so I was guessing a leaky hose or seal.
I quit driving the vehicle. A much smaller puddle, barely more than a spot, appeared. But it was much nearer the front of the vehicle than the PS pump. And the PS pump fluid level is still full.
Not much evidence of dripping fluid in the engine compartment. Is it possible that the new motor mount installed just a few months ago cracked and leaked its fluid already? Don't know how I could verify that without removing the mount. I'm at a loss for the source of the fluid.
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Driving last night and my 08 died after searching I found the ICM fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and now it has a misfire on cylinder 6. I have changed the coil with no luck. I replaced the plugs and wires about 2 weeks ago and I don't find any problem with the plug or wire. I checked at the coil and there is no spark at all on cylinder 6. I was thinking the ICM is bad but was wanting some opinions.
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I have an 2002 GT with a 3.8 in it. Two wires broke on my harness that plugs into the shift solenoid so it will not shift out of park.
I got a new harness and wired it how it was wired before but it is not working when I plug it back in. Is there a way to test the new harness to make sure it works?
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I have a 2000 GP GTP. I went over a speed bump to fast one day, and parked my car. When I got back into the car the next morning, I tried to put my car into drive and it wouldn't accelerate or move. So I put it into lower gear, 1st to be specific, and the car moved normally. I drove like that for a few days with no problem. Then days later I did the same thing, went over a speed bump to fast and now the vehicle wont move at all unless I put it in reverse.
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I have 02 GT 3.8L with 130k on it. When I accelerate it shakes extremely bad and when I let off the gas it stops. Is that a broken or worn CV joint or something else. And if it is should I replace both sides?
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