Grand Prix :: 2000 GTP Only Moves When Put In Reverse
Mar 26, 2015
I have a 2000 GP GTP. I went over a speed bump to fast one day, and parked my car. When I got back into the car the next morning, I tried to put my car into drive and it wouldn't accelerate or move. So I put it into lower gear, 1st to be specific, and the car moved normally. I drove like that for a few days with no problem. Then days later I did the same thing, went over a speed bump to fast and now the vehicle wont move at all unless I put it in reverse.
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In my 2004 Comp G I have an extremely loud clunk when braking. The braking clunk does not happen all the time. There is a clunk while having the car in reverse and power braking it. While holding down the brake and revving hard and fast it make the loud clunk every time. It will not do it all the time in drive though. I can not pin point which side it is coming from. It sounds as if it is mostly the right. It almost sounds as if it is coming from inside the trans near the pan area?
I have replaced the lower control arms, sway bar bushings, stab links, struts & mounts, I have solid engine and trans and top mounts, new inner and outer tie rods, all wheel bearings, etc.... (not for this issue, just for performance/wear).
I am torn between thinking it is a cv axle or internal drive train noise.
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
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I have a 2000 grand prix gtp, I am trying to pull the motor so i can change some things up so i can race it. But how to pull the motor or transmission with it.
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2000 Grand Prix GTP has code P1629, car will run for 3 sec with black master key and then die. Security light in dash is flashing when this happens. Tried the 30 minute relearn for PK3 with no luck. It will start and stay running with the grey Valet key which is perplexing to me. As of right now I am siding with replacing cylinder and ignition switch after everything I've read on the subject.
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Cooling Fans and a/c compressor not working-2000 Grand Prix. They both work when I jumper them. Replaced coolant temperature sensor, checked fuses and relays -all good. Not sure what to troubleshoot from here.
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Having an issue with my car blowing fuel pump fuses every once in a while under heavy to moderate acceleration. Have replaced inline fuel filter and the fuel pump resister(white ceramic part). Runs fine with normal driving, but when I want to get some horses out of it, it will cut out and stall and once i replace blown fuse it will start back up again, and I'm off and running again.
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix 3.8 with 65,000 miles. Bought the car new for the wife to drive. The front brake lines rusted out. My wife has a friend who is a backyard mechanic. She had him replace the front brake lines, from the abs block to each front wheel. Well she finally told me that the brake pedal is not right. I went out and sure enough with pressure on the pedal it goes to an inch off the floor. I bled all for lines at each caliper, no change in pedal. I bled almost a full bottle of fluid. You can pump the pedal for 10 minutes and no change in the pedal. I don't think it is air in the line. I changed the pads and rotors on all four corners last fall. The brake pedal was normal then.
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I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix (3.8) and when i was driving my car randomly shut off. When i tried to start it again, the car would start, rev a 1000 RPMs then dies a second later. If i pump the gas i can keep it running at around 2000 RPMs until i let my foot off the gas, then it dies After repeated attempts the tow truck was in need. the following day i ran some tests. when starting the car the fuel pressure would stay between 40-50 psi and doesnt drop below that. (excludes fuel pump, filter, etc..)
After running tests the car suddenly started up and continued to run with the rpm bouncing (+/- 100 rpm) i let the car run for 10 minutes and it began running perfectly. This has happened repeatedly in the past 3 days. I have noticed that when letting the car sit while runnig, it will usually die within 2 minutes, however if I am driving. It will sometimes be fine for hours. When attempting to start it by hitting the gas, the car will sometime sputter at 300 RPMs when hitting the gas will do nothing. in some situations i will hit the gas and the rpms will decrease and rise randomly. (letting my foot off the gas, rpms will hesitate before reducing).
When the car dies, i am at times able to get it running after spending 30 min fiddling with it. But half the time it wont start. I have a -P0107 and P0108, codes for high input and output of the MAP sensor. When i unplug the sensor it seems to have minimal effect to the running condition of the car. When i unplug it at times the car will keep a steady rpm while hitting the gas and the car acts no different when i unplug the sensor when the car is running well. I ordered a new MAP sensor which should arrive today so i can see if that is the problem.
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It is the 2000 GTP 2 door. It is my sons car and is dead in front of my house. Changed the fuel filter as it is cheap to do. At the check valve there is no pressure in the fuel line. I turned it over with the hose off the filter it did not pump any fuel. I do hear a click or clunk in the gas tank when I turn it over suggesting it is getting power into the pump.
I almost went and bought a pump but do not really want to put the $230 + tax down without checking the resistor after reading around the net.
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I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
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I have a 95 Grand Prix 3.1L and I can't turn my key. You can put it in and take it out, but it won't turn whatsoever. It's stuck in my driveway and I've tried just about everything to get it to turn.
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I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
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Thought my transmission was slipping. So I changed the tanny. been driving it for a few days and now it doing the same thing. Is it possible that it a different problem with the same symptoms?
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When I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
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When you are accelerating anywhere from half to full throttle it may cut out at any given time. The RPM will drop down, it may bounce up and down for a bit and recover, or it will drop all the way down and stall. If you let off the gas it may or may not recover. If it stalls so far from the tests I have done if you never shut the key off it will never restart again. If you shut the key off and wait from 5 to 10 minutes it will all of a sudden restart normally like nothing ever happened. If you try to restart it immediately even if you shut the key off and back on it will not start.
When it does not start when I am attempting to start: Fuel pressure according to my gauge is between 55 and 60 psi. Inline spark tester shows that it is getting a spark. Engine sounds normal while cranking so in other words compression sounds normal. I have an LED test light rigged up showing when an injector fires, and it does show electrical activity going to the injector when it opens (flashes). Only clue is that it SEEMS dimmer when it wont start, but I have no clue if thats how it normally is on start up. Its only a slight difference from the brightness of a normal idle brightness. I have a snap on scanner hooked up, nothing that I know of looks abnormal in the data and it will not throw codes when this happens.
Parts I have changed or cleaned so far: Changed the fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module, and MAF sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. When the car is working normally it runs strong, good power, smooth. Starts great normally.
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What may be causing my car to harshly shift fron 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd the 3rd. One solution some one had was to replace the:
"TPS (throttle position sensor). The other reason for hard shift is a worn Boost valve and will need to be replaced, or a faulty transmission fluid EPC (electronic pressures control valve). Both Boost valve and EPC are located in the Valve Body and can be replaced with out dropping the valve body, but have to drop the transmission pan".
I did just recently top off the tranny fluid because it was running a bit low but there is no leak....
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Last year my a/c worked off and on. so far now its not working at all. Compressor isn't kicking on. i bought a bottle of the EZchill refrigerant to recharge the system. I took the relay out and added 12+ to the pin to kick on the compressor. Even with the compressor running the gauges are in the blue range which is the normal operating range. With the compressor running, the air is cold but when i stick the relay back in the compressor wont kick back on. I tested the relay and its fine. Also the compressor is rattling.
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Last weekend, I saw fluid under the right side of the car when in a parking lot and found a rather large puddle of almost clear, oily fluid on the garage floor when I got home. I figured it was power steering fluid. I just finished a rebuild a couple months ago but the old power steering pump wasn't changed, so I was guessing a leaky hose or seal.
I quit driving the vehicle. A much smaller puddle, barely more than a spot, appeared. But it was much nearer the front of the vehicle than the PS pump. And the PS pump fluid level is still full.
Not much evidence of dripping fluid in the engine compartment. Is it possible that the new motor mount installed just a few months ago cracked and leaked its fluid already? Don't know how I could verify that without removing the mount. I'm at a loss for the source of the fluid.
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Driving last night and my 08 died after searching I found the ICM fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and now it has a misfire on cylinder 6. I have changed the coil with no luck. I replaced the plugs and wires about 2 weeks ago and I don't find any problem with the plug or wire. I checked at the coil and there is no spark at all on cylinder 6. I was thinking the ICM is bad but was wanting some opinions.
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I have an 2002 GT with a 3.8 in it. Two wires broke on my harness that plugs into the shift solenoid so it will not shift out of park.
I got a new harness and wired it how it was wired before but it is not working when I plug it back in. Is there a way to test the new harness to make sure it works?
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