Grand Prix :: 1997 - Hissing Noise After Turning Engine Off
Oct 27, 2014
I've been fixing things here and there (hub bearing, struts, etc.). My latest repair is the water pump, it was howling for a few seconds during cold starts; I just replaced it today, hopefully this unit lasts for a long time.
A few days ago, I noticed this hissing noise after I turn the engine off at normal temp. Since there was a leak from the radiator drain, I thought that was it and didn't care about it. I just installed a new o-ring on the drain cock along with the new water pump. Test drove the car and it turns out the noise is still there, is it normal or not, I didn't put much attention before.
The noise can be heard from underneath and above the engine, it kinda seems to be coming from the intake BUT I find it weird since I installed a new upper intake manifold in november of 2013. It's a Dorman unit and I followed all the instructions from the kit and the workshop manual. Lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced back in november 2009 after the engine was rebuilt because of a cracked head (not sure what type did the mechanic use, back then I didn't know much about repairs). It's hard to believe that these gaskets have failed already. I also replaced the coolant elbow almost two years ago after the belt tensioner assembly failed.
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I am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
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I am getting a thumping noise from front tires,can't really tell which side? as i turn to left it seems to stops until i straighten wheels.
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Where the fuse that controls oxygen sensors on a 1997 pontiac grand prix 3.8L engine? i read some where it is under hood fuse panel, but what is the marking for the fuse?
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I have a 97 GTP. When I am at idle, I get a very loud rattling noise coming from the drive belt area of the engine. The noise goes away when you rev the engine up, but returns immediately when idling. I removed the supercharger belt assembly, and then noise still occurs. This just started tonight out of the blue, and It is extremely loud.
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I just replaced the passenger wheel hub assembly (and axle due to complications) and the noise is still there. I have a loud hum that starts at about 30mph, is present when going straight, but gets much louder as the steering wheel is turned to the left. It is completely gone when turning to the right. It gets louder with speed and how much the wheel is turned left. At highway speeds, on a long sweeping left-hand curving connector, the noise is VERY LOUD. There is a slight vibration that occurs, but it's not bad at all. The noise continues when the trans is in neutral. I've even shut off the car while testing this in a parking lot, and the noise continues. The noise varies depending on the height or load of the suspension. It varies as the car rides over dips in the road.
I really though it would end up being the passenger wheel hub, even though there was no noticeable play in either hub. I've had noisy hubs before that had no noticeable play. But after a very obnoxious repair, it's not the hub. All tie rods have no play. All 4 heels were recently aligned. The alignment made no difference in the noise. I replaced a bad tranny mount about a year ago. Motor mounts look good. Ball joints are good. Replaced axles about 3 years ago. Replaced bad struts and strut mounts about a year ago. New control arms due to bad bushings. All these things I've replaced recently were making noises too, but the left-hand hum is always present. This is my last noise and it's driving me crazy. I've always felt it comes more from the driver's side, but my wife disagrees and my hearing isn't great due to too much range time.
Oh, I recently noticed that the steering wheel tends to want to return to center from the right more than it does from the left. Again, alignment was done by a reputable garage just a few months ago. They also found nothing during there safety inspection. I also noticed that the car is not sitting level as it seems that the rear driver-side spring is sagging about 1.5". The noise is not very obvious from outside the car. I know I'm forgetting some other things I've checked for this problem. I'll post more as I think of it.
My current theories are driver's-side hub, something with the steering rack, spring heights, something vibrating (body panel, loose part?), something with the auto-tranny.
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I have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
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The grand prix is stalling at different times when driving, I cleaned mass air flow sensor. still has same issue, car stalls and have to put in neutral and start while driving.
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I just bought a 99 f150. Its in great shape only 65000 on it but there is a hissing swooshing sound when turning the wheel... not really any brake sounds. The truck has been maintained and I dont see any leeks in the ps system hoses. I didn't know anything about the atf fluid in the truck... and I haven't added either ps or atf fluid to it. I'm wondering if that is maybe something the dealer i bought it from did. or maybe one of the shops the previous owner did. Would ps fluid cause these kinds of sounds? Do I need a flush of the system.. How to do that.
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1997 Grand Prix 3.8 N/A 181,000 ... I have been getting a misfire only on cylinder 4 which has become more frequent. It "only" happens after the car has warmed up and I turn it off for a few minutes, for instance going in to pay for gas. When I start, it immediately starts to miss but as soon as I hit the accelerator it evens out and runs great, every time. I replaced plugs and wires two years ago with stock.
Upper and lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced around 110,000. All three coil packs have been replaced with original GM packs. I replaced my EGR valve last year due to the original was sticking. My throttle body was cleaned about four years ago. I've seafoamed through brake booster and the rest in gas tank.
I'm stumped that it corrects itself right away by giving it gas. The SES light always come on but goes off on it's own after a few cycles.
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We have an 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. It isn't driven very much -- only about 25,000 miles total. Lately it has been having problems when we try to start it. Sometimes it starts right up, and sometimes it needs a few tries. When it fails, we can hear the engine turning over, but don't get to ignition.
We drive this car a couple of times a month. Is it possible this issue is related to the infrequent use?
Could this be something more serious? What do we even ask the mechanic to look at?
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I'm having this weird problem with my car, 90% of the time it will start to run rich, until it reaches normal temp, to the point that I can smell it coming out from the exhaust. LTFT is at around -15% and it seems to go down after cruising for some time but will go back to negative at idle. My first suspect was the FPR so I checked it and found no gas smell on the vacuum hose, then I decided to run the engine with the vacuum hose disconnected and see if any fuel would come out, 5 minutes later and it was still dry.
There is a chance that the MAF sensor is bad, I'm 90% sure it is, because it will sometimes read 2.9-3.1 gps at idle and according to the rule of thumb of 1gps per liter of displacement, it shouldn't go that low but I might be wrong about it; I disconnected the MAF and the smell was still there, today while driving it was reading 5.45gps (A/C was on) and the smell was still present; car also feels sluggish from time to time only at normal operating temperature (which I assume is because of it running rich).
There is also a vibration felt through the steering wheel only while idling in gear at all temps. Today when I got home and after I turned off the engine I heard a noise like water was running. It was coming from the car so I tried to find where the noise was coming from and it's from the fuel tank. I removed the fuel cap and lots of air came out (or sucked in?). I reinstalled the cap and pressure started to build up almost immediately! I have a video, which I'm sharing, so you can see what I'm talking about; I was even able to hear the fuel tank expanding because of the pressure inside, not sure if you can hear it towards the end of the video (when I put the phone under the car). [URL] .....
It also happened today that I was cruising and the engine hit the rev limiter after I stepped on the gas (WOT) to overtake another car. I immediately removed the foot from the pedal and gave it less gas and it acted normal, no slipping from the transmission at any other time. There is one more thing that I'm not sure about it. Every morning, the engine will sputter for 1 or 2 seconds after starting it but it will be fine for the rest of the day. I once tried disconnecting different sensors from the engine and the only one that seemed to make a difference (it didn't sputter) was the TPS.
Things done so far:
- I replaced the EVAP purge solenoid (P0441 was present) back in february.
- Rubber pieces at charcoal canister also replaced, old ones were rotted to the point my hands would look black just by rubbing against the hoses.
- Upper intake manifold was also replaced by me in november last year.
- New NGK spark plugs and OEM spark plug wires last december.
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, no dice. Used brake clean, no change. It's a reman Cardone from autozone, which tells us it's 90% sure it's broken.
- New Duralast MAP sensor back in 2010 because a mechanic broke the original.
- 10qts transmission fluid and filter replacement 2 weeks ago.
- Fuel pump was also replaced back in 2009 maybe, can't remember the exact year. The old one would start making some kind of a hissing noise after prolonged driving.
NO DTC'S PRESENT. I once checked Mode $06 data with a mid-level scanner I have (AutoXray EZ-scan 6000) and saw a test had failed, I think it said something about the MAF and EGR. IHaven't connected my fuel pressure gauge tester. Since I can smell it running rich, I didn't think it would be necessary. I'm thinking that there could be a problem with the EVAP system that's causing the excessive pressure in the tank but I'm not sure what that could be. Is there any chance that the pressure is also causing the rich mixture?
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I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
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I have a 91 pontiac Grand Prix with a 3.1 and the car has NO leaks, however, I have noticed that the transmission fluid level go down and the engine oil goes up. My conclusion is that some how the tranny fluid is crossing over to the engine, is this possible? and if it is, how or where?
NOTE: my car has a tranny cooling line to the radiator but no engine oil cooling lines and the colant is clean. how is it possible?
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I have a new car now, 2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G, got it at 88k and it now has 167k. Nearly no problems other than routine maintenance, but here I am with an issue I can't seem to figure out.
A few weeks ago, I blew a tire on the highway, ended up getting 2 new tires put on the front and moved the fronts to the back. Tires were then rebalanced and the alignment straightened out.
The guys at the shop said the front tie end rod needed replaced, but I'm pretty sure they were trying to make extra money off a new customer because my bill was going from tires/alignment to tires/alignment, bearings, tie end rods, and speed sensors.
Now, on to my issue. When I'm driving on the interstate, I notice a humming sound that seems to come from the front passenger wheel between 68-80mph. Soon as I go over 80 or under 68, it's gone. I noticed that the noise lessened when I veered to the right, so I assumed it was the bearing.
Took the car to my usual shop, had the bearings checked, got the front driver bearing replaced under warranty. Mechanic said the passenger bearing seemed fine. Got it on the highway again today, noise is still there.
3.8SuperPacer
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G with Ram Air
1998 Grand Prix GTP 40th Anniversary Daytona 500 Pace Car Edition
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The engine cranks and turns over when I turn the key, but won't stay running unless I give it some gas. My mechanic doesn't know what's wrong with it, but I haven't starting having him replace parts. What's going wrong. Could it be the fuel filter? fuel pump?
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This has happened to me twice now, 2 weeks between occurrences:
Driving to work, about 10 minutes into the trip - traction control light comes on, "Reduced engine power" message appears on DIC, and check engine light comes on.
The car is an '08 Prix, no charger, with 51K on it. This is actually the first trouble I've had with the car since it left the dealer lot.
I pull over, turn car off. Turn back on - traction light goes out, and engine is running at full power. The check engine light remains on for about 5 starts/stops then goes away.
I haven't had the engine scanned yet. The only thread here I could find recommended replacing the throttle body. The person decided to clean the throttle body, and that was the last post.
I was thinking of removing the individual electronic components from the TB and cleaning them and the area around them in the TB. (I have the sensor-safe cleaner for TB's).
I don't think this error condition would be a warranty issue, but I'm not sure. It's a MAJOR hassle for me to get the car to the dealer.
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It is the 2000 GTP 2 door. It is my sons car and is dead in front of my house. Changed the fuel filter as it is cheap to do. At the check valve there is no pressure in the fuel line. I turned it over with the hose off the filter it did not pump any fuel. I do hear a click or clunk in the gas tank when I turn it over suggesting it is getting power into the pump.
I almost went and bought a pump but do not really want to put the $230 + tax down without checking the resistor after reading around the net.
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My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
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I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
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