My daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
I have a 2004 grand prix gt, within the last couple of days, it seems to loose power on acceleration and the motor completely dies at times. After waiting 10 seconds or so it will crank but may die again or just feel like it is loping. The problem is getting worse quickly. I have replaced the fuel filter. This did not stop the problem. I thinking it may be the fuel pump. If it is the fuel pump is there any way to verify this to be sure it is the problem before replacing it?
View 3 RepliesSometimes get a no-start on my car, turn key, nothing have dash lights and headlights, but they do not dim when i turn key, car will also not start in neutral, Had lock cylinder with vats wires replaced, and neutral safety switch was cleaned and adjusted. I even try using remote start and will not with that. this happens every few days or can go a week before problem starts again.
View 5 RepliesI have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
The grand prix is stalling at different times when driving, I cleaned mass air flow sensor. still has same issue, car stalls and have to put in neutral and start while driving.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
I had a leaking reserve tank on my Honda. These bikes have 2 gas tanks. Why I do not know. It is a pain to remove this tank. I fixed the leak but after it started hard. I thought perhaps the carbs were dried out and it took a while because of that. Once I originally got it started it started fine. It would miss a little especially when cold. I had not taken it very far until the other day.
After 10 miles it began to lose power and shut down completely. After 10 minutes I got it to run for 5 more miles. I stopped to do something and left there about another 5 miles till it shut down again. After another 10 min wait I got it to run after turning it over for a long time. After a few more times I got it home to storage. I thought after it cooled off it would start up easier, but no it started just as hard as it was warm.
What could I have screwed up by simply repairing the reserve fuel 2nd tank? Could I have gotten some dirt or something into the tank?
Just replaced power steering pressure hose while engine out as PM. New hose wasn't correct shape so I bent the tubing to fit. I later realized that I bought a hose for power steering without variable assist and the hose for variable assist looks correct.
Is there any harm in leaving the "w/o variable assist" hose in now?
I have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP and the AC just stopped working. The fan blows but i don't get any cold air. I have noticed the AC clutch plate does not move and the relay does not click when the ac is toggled. Long story short, I think I need a wiring diagram for the AC. Here is what I have checked/ruled out so far.
1. When I toggle the AC, the AC clutch relay does not click so i assume there is no power getting to the relay. (I have recently had other wiring issues so I'm guessing its the same case)
2. I swapped the AC clutch relay with the fog lap relay (they are the exact same relay) and the fog laps still worked so i know its not the relay.
3. I have checked the AC fuse and that is fine.
I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+
I have a 98 gp gt. I have no power going to the radio, sunroof, steering wheel controls, or power windows in the fuse panel I have virtually ripped this car apart and still no clue why I'm not getting power.
View 3 RepliesIn my 2004 Comp G I have an extremely loud clunk when braking. The braking clunk does not happen all the time. There is a clunk while having the car in reverse and power braking it. While holding down the brake and revving hard and fast it make the loud clunk every time. It will not do it all the time in drive though. I can not pin point which side it is coming from. It sounds as if it is mostly the right. It almost sounds as if it is coming from inside the trans near the pan area?
I have replaced the lower control arms, sway bar bushings, stab links, struts & mounts, I have solid engine and trans and top mounts, new inner and outer tie rods, all wheel bearings, etc.... (not for this issue, just for performance/wear).
I am torn between thinking it is a cv axle or internal drive train noise.
I noticed red fluid coming out of a line behind the radiator. The line runs directly into the bottom of the radiator. Is that line the lower pressure or high pressure power steering line?
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix, GT 3.8L
This has happened to me twice now, 2 weeks between occurrences:
Driving to work, about 10 minutes into the trip - traction control light comes on, "Reduced engine power" message appears on DIC, and check engine light comes on.
The car is an '08 Prix, no charger, with 51K on it. This is actually the first trouble I've had with the car since it left the dealer lot.
I pull over, turn car off. Turn back on - traction light goes out, and engine is running at full power. The check engine light remains on for about 5 starts/stops then goes away.
I haven't had the engine scanned yet. The only thread here I could find recommended replacing the throttle body. The person decided to clean the throttle body, and that was the last post.
I was thinking of removing the individual electronic components from the TB and cleaning them and the area around them in the TB. (I have the sensor-safe cleaner for TB's).
I don't think this error condition would be a warranty issue, but I'm not sure. It's a MAJOR hassle for me to get the car to the dealer.
Coming home from the coast last night, my car started to hiccup and lose power. I had to pull over to the side of the road as no matter how much throttle I applied the car kept losing speed. The car was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. Once stopped on the side of the road I revved the engine for about a minute and it picked back up. I drove the remaining forty miles home without further incident. Went out today to drive to the car and my car won't start. It will turn over, but will not start... again feels like it's not getting any fuel.
View 9 RepliesMy 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
Our 2006 Chevy Tahoe will at times while running the speed limit (or slightly above) will suddenly without warning lose power. All the gauges remain in good ranges. This will happen without warning and not on a regular basis - sometimes going six months without happening and then happen three times within thirty minutes. The stability system warning message comes on as does the check engine light. Also the traction control warning light comes on. We can pull to the side of the road, turn the engine off for a few seconds and then it will start up again and run well with only the check engine light on. When this happens, the rpms will drop and go under 1500 and the engine will still be running, just without power.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 dodge grand caravan with about 111,000 miles on it. Overall it has been a reliable car. In the past month we had to replace the ECM because the computer died on the car. Now, very intermittently, while driving at about 60 mph the car will suddenly drop to 40 mph then shoot right back to where it was at 60. This only happens for about a second and then its fine.
Its quite startling but it has only happened to us 3 times in the past two weeks, so its very hard to replicate. There are no engine codes and it seems like the tachometer does not change during this sudden drop, although to be honest I wasn't paying that close attention to it when it happened.
Could it be related to the recent ECM replacement? The dealer "reprogrammed" the computer so I'm assuming all parts electrically have been checked.
I have a 95 Pontiac grand am with a 98 motor. Everything is factory, no modifications. I just recently starting having an issue with the car attempting to stall out while driving over bumps and on some hard turns as well. Haven't replaced anything yet but would like to know what is causing this? I have shook wires, checked for broken ones and found nothing.
View 1 RepliesI just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
View 2 RepliesHeading to work this morning, taking the back roads as usual. Came to the nice RH sweeping curve that ends in an uphill straight (where I typically like to play a bit). Caught 3rd, nailed it coming out of the curve, and instead of "grip and go" the .:R completely loses power. Limped to side of road...tried to restart. Acts exactly like out of gas, but tank is almost full. Bummer...and I'm very aggravated at this point.
Called roadside assistance and they sent someone who had it on a rollback in under 30 minutes. Caught a ride with the truck to my job...call the dealership and asked for a ride and loaner. That all worked out, so now I'm calmed down and feel satisfied with the courtesy and service I've received thus far.
BTW, I did have the fuel tank valve recall thing performed a month or more ago. Not going to speculate, though, as to whether this had anything to do with anything. Also, I have never had any problem, hiccups, or anything negative happen to the car (14K on odo) prior to this.