Driving last night and my 08 died after searching I found the ICM fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and now it has a misfire on cylinder 6. I have changed the coil with no luck. I replaced the plugs and wires about 2 weeks ago and I don't find any problem with the plug or wire. I checked at the coil and there is no spark at all on cylinder 6. I was thinking the ICM is bad but was wanting some opinions.
View 11 Replies1997 Grand Prix 3.8 N/A 181,000 ... I have been getting a misfire only on cylinder 4 which has become more frequent. It "only" happens after the car has warmed up and I turn it off for a few minutes, for instance going in to pay for gas. When I start, it immediately starts to miss but as soon as I hit the accelerator it evens out and runs great, every time. I replaced plugs and wires two years ago with stock.
Upper and lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced around 110,000. All three coil packs have been replaced with original GM packs. I replaced my EGR valve last year due to the original was sticking. My throttle body was cleaned about four years ago. I've seafoamed through brake booster and the rest in gas tank.
I'm stumped that it corrects itself right away by giving it gas. The SES light always come on but goes off on it's own after a few cycles.
I have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
I have a 95 Grand Prix 3.1L and I can't turn my key. You can put it in and take it out, but it won't turn whatsoever. It's stuck in my driveway and I've tried just about everything to get it to turn.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 grand prix GTP that I am replacing the ignition switch on. I am having trouble locating the small hole on the key cylinder that I put an allen wrench into to release the key cylinder.
View 2 Replies2000 Grand Am GT with 3.4 and 150,000 miles. Car keeps throwing code P304 - cylinder 4 misfire. The main issue is the light and needing to pass emissions test. It has just recently had new plugs, wires, and injector #4.
The fuel pressure regulator was replaced about 3 years ago because it was leaking fuel, enough to smell while driving the car with windows rolled down. Shortly after the fpr was replaced, the acceleration problem seems to have started, either by coincidence, or improper installation. The light/error has been occurring for quite some time, about the past year or two. About a year ago, the car was also throwing a random misfire code. I am not positive if both codes were being thrown at the same time, and when exactly the P304 started.
The crank (or cam) sensor was replaced and worked with the issue for a short while (removed codes/light for maybe a few months?) Before the sensor was replaced, the car would stumble at very slow speeds, 0-10 mph. Also replaced Idle Air Control valve last year. The car would sometimes surge on semi warm starts (not cold, not 190-200) between 500-1000 rpms. The surge would be worse when I had the blower running or the rear defrost on, down to 200 rpms at times.
Currently, the car runs perfectly fine for me, except when trying to accelerate on highway ramps. Its firing somewhat when you step on the pedal, but lags and takes longer than normal to accelerate up to speed for merging with traffic. Drove the car after new injection and said it runs fine while driving, but the misfire seems to be mostly or only occurring at idle.
I purchased a 2000 Ford Ranger last year. Within the first two months of ownership, the vehicle was having a cylinder 4 misfire. To fix it, I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires and cap - replacing the wires, plugs and cap fixed the issue. The issue went away for four months when cylinder 4 misfired again. I brought it to a repair shop and they again replaced the wires and plugs. The vehicle now has a cylinder 6 misfire.
There has to be something causing these plugs to continually go bad. Rather than just replacing the plugs again, I'd like to attempt to be proactive and fix the root of the issue. I've googled the issue and some of the forums seem to indicate a bad EGR valve.
Ok , i have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT V6 GM 3.8, my car didnt have any misfires until after i changed my Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets. After changing the gaskets and putting everything back together. The car ran fine. The next day i took it an hour and 30 min away, while driving there it started misfiring and shaking,rough idle at an hour into the trip. The check engine light went to blinking. The Next day i drove it all the way back home in the condition. Put code scanner to it, and received P0303 "Cylinder 3 Misfire":
So i automatically assumed it was the coil pack because i just installed new wires and plugs a week before changing Lower Intake manifold Gasket. Bought new coil pack. Still getting rough idle and P0303 code. So i decided to take a look at Cylinder 3 Spark plug and it was dry black, carbon fouled:
So went and bought new spark plug, installed it, started car and still rough idle and misfiring. Took the new spark plug out and it had been FOULED also ( DRY BLACK AGAIN). So i was told to switch a coil pack around. I did it and the started car, took away some of the rough idle, car actually wasn't misfring or shaking, would run smooth for about 5-8 seconds then start misfiring (Didn't that until i switch coil packs around).
Next Decided to pull out the rest of the plugs from the back and all of them were WET with GAS!! and 2 Spark plugs are just dry fouled!! (Cylinder 3, Cylinder 1). If I can figure this out i will fully have my car back to running correctly.
Getting error code p0302, misfire in 2, pulled the plug and had oil on the treads and on the lower part. My guess is the valve cover gasket, but I'm not 100 percent sure.
View 18 RepliesI am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
I'm pulling the engine to overhaul. I've borrowed a hoist and think I'm ready to lift the engine out, but I don't know how to strap the engine to the hoist. I first thought of using the brackets with the eyelets bolted to each head and bought chain and hooks. But I had to remove the rear bracket so I could remove the rear exhaust manifold so I could remove that darn rear engine-transaxle bolt. (That really bites because I want to have the exhaust manifolds on when dropping it back in.)
Are those brackets intended for lifting the engine? If so, I could reinstall the back bracket and give it a go.
Searched the internet for info but didn't find much. Did find a 3800 being lifted with two straps completely under the engine.
Also, the engine-transaxle joint hasn't cracked open yet. I'm guessing it's because they're stuck after 198k miles and will eventually separate. But I did not find one of the engine-transaxle bolts mentioned in the 98 FSM: front lower (#1). I don't see how I could have missed it ; maybe the 99 doesn't have it?
Thought my transmission was slipping. So I changed the tanny. been driving it for a few days and now it doing the same thing. Is it possible that it a different problem with the same symptoms?
View 4 RepliesWhen I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Grand Prix with a 3.8L engine that will not start. When I turn the key to the run position, the headlights and the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to the start position, the lights go dim and nothing happens. No sound from the starter. I checked the battery and the starter and they are good. I installed a new positive battery cable. Still works the same. Not sure what else to check.
View 13 RepliesWhen you are accelerating anywhere from half to full throttle it may cut out at any given time. The RPM will drop down, it may bounce up and down for a bit and recover, or it will drop all the way down and stall. If you let off the gas it may or may not recover. If it stalls so far from the tests I have done if you never shut the key off it will never restart again. If you shut the key off and wait from 5 to 10 minutes it will all of a sudden restart normally like nothing ever happened. If you try to restart it immediately even if you shut the key off and back on it will not start.
When it does not start when I am attempting to start: Fuel pressure according to my gauge is between 55 and 60 psi. Inline spark tester shows that it is getting a spark. Engine sounds normal while cranking so in other words compression sounds normal. I have an LED test light rigged up showing when an injector fires, and it does show electrical activity going to the injector when it opens (flashes). Only clue is that it SEEMS dimmer when it wont start, but I have no clue if thats how it normally is on start up. Its only a slight difference from the brightness of a normal idle brightness. I have a snap on scanner hooked up, nothing that I know of looks abnormal in the data and it will not throw codes when this happens.
Parts I have changed or cleaned so far: Changed the fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module, and MAF sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. When the car is working normally it runs strong, good power, smooth. Starts great normally.
What may be causing my car to harshly shift fron 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd the 3rd. One solution some one had was to replace the:
"TPS (throttle position sensor). The other reason for hard shift is a worn Boost valve and will need to be replaced, or a faulty transmission fluid EPC (electronic pressures control valve). Both Boost valve and EPC are located in the Valve Body and can be replaced with out dropping the valve body, but have to drop the transmission pan".
I did just recently top off the tranny fluid because it was running a bit low but there is no leak....
Last year my a/c worked off and on. so far now its not working at all. Compressor isn't kicking on. i bought a bottle of the EZchill refrigerant to recharge the system. I took the relay out and added 12+ to the pin to kick on the compressor. Even with the compressor running the gauges are in the blue range which is the normal operating range. With the compressor running, the air is cold but when i stick the relay back in the compressor wont kick back on. I tested the relay and its fine. Also the compressor is rattling.
View 8 RepliesLast weekend, I saw fluid under the right side of the car when in a parking lot and found a rather large puddle of almost clear, oily fluid on the garage floor when I got home. I figured it was power steering fluid. I just finished a rebuild a couple months ago but the old power steering pump wasn't changed, so I was guessing a leaky hose or seal.
I quit driving the vehicle. A much smaller puddle, barely more than a spot, appeared. But it was much nearer the front of the vehicle than the PS pump. And the PS pump fluid level is still full.
Not much evidence of dripping fluid in the engine compartment. Is it possible that the new motor mount installed just a few months ago cracked and leaked its fluid already? Don't know how I could verify that without removing the mount. I'm at a loss for the source of the fluid.
I have an 2002 GT with a 3.8 in it. Two wires broke on my harness that plugs into the shift solenoid so it will not shift out of park.
I got a new harness and wired it how it was wired before but it is not working when I plug it back in. Is there a way to test the new harness to make sure it works?
I have a 2000 GP GTP. I went over a speed bump to fast one day, and parked my car. When I got back into the car the next morning, I tried to put my car into drive and it wouldn't accelerate or move. So I put it into lower gear, 1st to be specific, and the car moved normally. I drove like that for a few days with no problem. Then days later I did the same thing, went over a speed bump to fast and now the vehicle wont move at all unless I put it in reverse.
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