Grand - Caravan :: 1998 - After Putting OBD P1698 Came On?
Apr 17, 2012
My service engine soon light came on and the guy at O'reilly's put the OBD-II on it and P1698 came up. This has something to do with the TCM not communicating with the BCM or some such thing. I have been searching all over the web for P1698 and it seems to be usually associated with dash lights and gages being intermittent. Our gages are intermittent but right now are working fine. They say they fix is to take the instrument cluster out and resolder the grounds to the main connector. That seems to get rid of the light and the P1698 code.
But if P1698 is that the TCM does not talk to the BCM, how does the cluster get into this?
I guess my real question is what do I do to get the light to go out and the code to go away? Resoldering the cluster just doesn't ring true with this code description, but on the other hand, the description is not much clear either.
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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I'm having trouble with my 2000 Grand Caravan 3.3L. The gauge cluster was working intermittently & recently quit. I have the P1698 trouble code & looked up info online. I of course found out about the solder joint problem & figured that would be the culprit. I took the dash apart & found the solder joints were fine, but when coming apart, the wire plug on the back side came out on it's own. The retaining clip was broke & I thought maybe that was my problem. There's enough room to install a zip tie to hold the plug in & I put it back together. It still doesn't work though.
Here's the symptoms- I turn the key to ignition & nothing in the instrument cluster comes on. When I start the engine, everything lights & works as normal except for the trans indicator- the letters light, but no position shown (regardless of any gear selection). This continues for about 5-10 seconds & the trans position indicator lights up around EVERY letter. A few seconds later the entire dash goes down. I then shut off the engine by only turning the key back 1 notch. At this key position the odometer & trans indicator come on & the trans indicator will properly display every selected position correctly. It is consistently working this way every time now. The heat is also stuck on hot & the rear window wiper/ washer is not working.
I've also pulled the body module to check for connection problems & don't find anything with that. I've pulled the fuse under the hood too. So far no luck.
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I've called to be on the show but never get through. But for the first time I cannot get an answer to my question from any mechanic. I have a 06 dodge caravan minivan which stalls after putting gas in the tank. After a few seconds it starts up again and operates normally for the rest of the tank. I've tried filling it, filling halfway and even putting in only a few dollars worth.
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My 2005 Grand Caravan has a leak in the A/C under the dash. The mechanics say they will need to tear out the dash to get to it and it will cost $1000. As this car needs a couple of more things and I just repaired the battery and alternator, I don't want to put this money into it. Will anything seize up if I just let it go? It's August and summer will be over soon. Can I just deal with it or will this cause further problems?
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Have a 06 Grand Caravan 3.8L that suddenly quit and would start back up easily enough, but one had to keep foot on the gas to keep it going.
I pulled two codes:
P0123-throttle postion sensor 1 high
P0508-IAC valve sensor circuit low/undercurrent
So far I have removed the IAC and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner, cleaned throttle body out as well with the spray, installed new EGR since it got mangled trying to remove it for cleaning. Removed the TPS connector and with key on, took measurements and I am getting a reference voltage proper ( almost 5 volts). I then back probed the connector once it was plugged back in and again things checked out, the reference lead was varying between .7 and 4.7 volts as I manually moved the throttle plate.
I had switched out the IAC with a used one, from an engine that had been running before being parked, but it made no change.
Note: I have a new TPS but am holding off on changing it until I investigate whether or not it may have a clogged fuel filter causing it to stall at idle speed. Now if can just locate where it is..the sketchy diagrams in my Alldata program are useful.
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I did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.
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1990 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L
Three weeks ago, I had the starter rebuilt locally by a shop I've used confidently for years, most of their business is rebuilds like this. Besides a substantial coating of oil on the starter which was no benefit to the contacts, the tech also found a broken insulator which presumably was the primary issue. I installed the starter and have had no problems since (three weeks).
Yesterday morning, the battery was dead - no click, no lights, no horn. I could be wrong, but I don't think the interior lights were left on overnight.
I put my 1 amp trickle charger on it for several hours and when I reconnected the battery, the horn sounded right, interior lights looked good....until I tried the starter. In an instant, I got the chattering clicky sound of a starter with inadequate power , then nothing, and the lights and horn were gone too.
After charging overnight -almost 24 hours now, that same scenario has repeated: first good horn and lights, then clicks from the starter, then very weak lights and horn.
Is this simply that the battery is down and needs more charge? Or could there be something wrong in the starter causing this rapid discharge? A few months ago the same electrical shop load tested the battery and it was surprisingly good considering its age. I don't want to put a new battery in the car if the starter is somehow damaging the battery. I do have another battery I can swap in, but for the same reason I'm reluctant to install that without some better idea of what's happening.
Does this point conclusively to the starter? Or is this clearly the battery? Is there some way to diagnose the starter without removing it? I'm sure the shop would fix any mistake, but I don't want to pull the starter again for no reason. The cable connector on the starter looks normal.
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Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
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I had a VERY bad leak, to the point where I would fill it, an hour later it all leaked out. I had a mechanic work on it, and he rebuilt the PS pump, BUT the pulley was cracked, they DON'T make that size anymore. He put a bigger one on, only to find out, it was rubbing on my brake lines so I couldn't drive it! SO I had another grease monkey work on it, went through a few new pulley's FINALLY found one! BUT went through 4 Serpentine belts!!
After 3 months with NO VEHICLE, we finally got it all back together. BUT now it is not all lining up we couldn't tell until we had the belt on. it is about a 1/4 of an inch to much to the right.
I'm thinking maybe washers or spacers would work?
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I recently changed the blower motor and blower motor resistor in my 98 Ford Mustang. Why my blower is still not putting out an air flow?
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I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan. I found a small leak in my fuel rail. Can I buy a repair kit for this or do I need to find a new fuel rail? If so where to find a rail for a van this old?
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I have a 2003 dodge grand caravan with about 111,000 miles on it. Overall it has been a reliable car. In the past month we had to replace the ECM because the computer died on the car. Now, very intermittently, while driving at about 60 mph the car will suddenly drop to 40 mph then shoot right back to where it was at 60. This only happens for about a second and then its fine.
Its quite startling but it has only happened to us 3 times in the past two weeks, so its very hard to replicate. There are no engine codes and it seems like the tachometer does not change during this sudden drop, although to be honest I wasn't paying that close attention to it when it happened.
Could it be related to the recent ECM replacement? The dealer "reprogrammed" the computer so I'm assuming all parts electrically have been checked.
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this has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
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My van has quit me finally. It only has 98,000 original miles on it. Right now the car really smells like it is loading up and not properly burning fuel. Also a huge amount of white smoke is coming from the exhaust pipe. The oil pressure is good. could it be as simple as new plugs and plug wires, coil pack etc.
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My 1998 Grand Am (2.4L)radiator fan keeps running after I shut the engine off. This is after a short drive of ten minutes. Both times it did it, it was not an unusually hot day and stopped after I started and turned off the engine again. I have owned the car 7 years and it has never done this before.
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I have a 1998 grand prix the key left in the ignition buzzer keeps going off after I have taken the key out of the ignition and open the door to get out. Everything with the ignition works fine except for it telling me I have left the key in the ignition when I haven't.
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I have a 98 gtp 2 door with the electronic dual zone climate control. I can't get air to blow much out of the floor vents. I applied vacuum directly to the actuator and air came from the vents fine. It seems there is a box behind the glove box that controls the vacuum to each actuator. My question is, would the issue likely be with that vacuum distribution box or with the electronic climate box itself.
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Leaking intake manifold gaskets on General Motors 3.1L V6 engines? Mine is a 1998 Grand Am with low milage (40K) and I have been told I need to spend $900 to replace the intake manifold gasket because it is leaking antifreeze into the engine oil.
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I have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP and the AC just stopped working. The fan blows but i don't get any cold air. I have noticed the AC clutch plate does not move and the relay does not click when the ac is toggled. Long story short, I think I need a wiring diagram for the AC. Here is what I have checked/ruled out so far.
1. When I toggle the AC, the AC clutch relay does not click so i assume there is no power getting to the relay. (I have recently had other wiring issues so I'm guessing its the same case)
2. I swapped the AC clutch relay with the fog lap relay (they are the exact same relay) and the fog laps still worked so i know its not the relay.
3. I have checked the AC fuse and that is fine.
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What could be ready to go south and what kind of money?
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