Grand AM :: Wheel Noise / Cam Sensor And Evap Code Appeared
Nov 28, 2012
My car has been experiencing intermittent throttle issues where it will hesitate slightly. Immediately after this hesitation the trac control trio of lights come on. I don't think this is the bearing as there is no wheel noise to accompany this. Also the trac control lights don't remain on when you start the car the next time. If this hesitation occurs when using the cruise the cruise control will be disengaged.
I also scanned the car and pulled a P0341 and P0440 code. (cam sensor and evap). These codes have existed for the last two years long before the throttle hesitation issue has cropped up so I don't think it is related.
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P0340 code appeared on my camry 07 said cam shaft position sensor was bad what other things can be the problem ? Also I just replaced alternator because car wouldn't start with out getting jumped once I replaced alternator it started up good for a couple of days then when I wanted to start it up it would crank then stop and crank again till it would turn on also car stereo would turn off while running and dashboard gauges would go off and would make the gauges go Dow to zero then it would go back to normal while still driving.
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Just found out I have a problem with my evap system (97 Grand Prix GTP). My SES light comes on intermittently. Not sure what the number of the code is, but my mechanic said it was because the vacuum was too strong (not a leak). He said could be from a kink or clogged hose. What this could be? Are the hoses and canister easily accessible for me to check?
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My CEL came on a few weeks ago on my 2010 gti, I scanned it and got a code for evap (P0456). I figured it was from filling the tank while the car was running, so I cleared it and went on with my week. About a week later it came back on and when I scanned it, I got the same thing. I haven't had time to smoke test the system but the last couple days i have heard a clicking/tapping noise coming from the rear passenger side of the car. Could the flapper in the filler neck be malfunctioning or gas cap be leaking.
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I have a new car now, 2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G, got it at 88k and it now has 167k. Nearly no problems other than routine maintenance, but here I am with an issue I can't seem to figure out.
A few weeks ago, I blew a tire on the highway, ended up getting 2 new tires put on the front and moved the fronts to the back. Tires were then rebalanced and the alignment straightened out.
The guys at the shop said the front tie end rod needed replaced, but I'm pretty sure they were trying to make extra money off a new customer because my bill was going from tires/alignment to tires/alignment, bearings, tie end rods, and speed sensors.
Now, on to my issue. When I'm driving on the interstate, I notice a humming sound that seems to come from the front passenger wheel between 68-80mph. Soon as I go over 80 or under 68, it's gone. I noticed that the noise lessened when I veered to the right, so I assumed it was the bearing.
Took the car to my usual shop, had the bearings checked, got the front driver bearing replaced under warranty. Mechanic said the passenger bearing seemed fine. Got it on the highway again today, noise is still there.
3.8SuperPacer
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G with Ram Air
1998 Grand Prix GTP 40th Anniversary Daytona 500 Pace Car Edition
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My mother in laws 2012 Santa Fe had a number of dash lights on (ABS, hill decent, stability control). I put my scanner on it and came up with fault code C1209 which showed up as a faulty right rear wheel speed sensor. I have replaced this module and then cleared the codes.
However, the dash lights still light up and the vehicle continues to throw the same code. I don't work on Hyundai's very often so I am at a bit of a loss.
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The "check engine soon" light appeared yesterday on this nice running 1997 van with 167K. An auto parts store code check indicated a problem with the oxygen sensor. Is this something I can replace myself--a lightweight shade tree mechanic? I never seem to have any luck asking questions on the Mopar website.
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Ford Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
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My 2004/ 4.6L F-150 had misfire issues and rough idle. Since changing the plugs and a COP the idle is better. It seems to stutter a bit at low RPMs around town, but it fine at higher RPMs. What to check next. Also since fixing the misfire and clearing the codes from the computer it won't enable all the emissions monitors. I've drive over 100 miles and the EVAP monitor still isn't on. The truck has about 213K miles on it.
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Engine runs perfectly but "check engine" light" stays on due to faulty Emission Evap control pressure sensor (P/N; 89460-0w020). Problem is Toyota no longer makes this part and there is no after market for it. It appears I may have to "junk" a perfectly good truck.
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I am a technician and my boss owns a couple of prius taxis.
One of them had the code to replace hybrid battery pack. After checking all the cells and they were all in spec the code came back every single day so he bought a new hybrid battery pack. After installing the new battery pack The car won't go into ready mode with the message check hybrid system.
The code that comes up is P0A0D about the service safety plug. It is plugged in properly pushed all the way to the right and so on. The 120 amp fuse inside of it is good I have tried everything I can think of.We had another 2010 in the shop I tried changing the service safety plug, engine ecu, hv ecu, all to no avail with the same problem.
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I have a check engine light for the Evap. the code there is a hose that comes off and you get the code. I have looked high and low for this hose, where actually this hose is or put a picture up so I can find it.
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I just bought a used 2008 Prius. I had my Prius inspected after buying it, and the error code C1378 appeared, which I have discerned refers to the Skid Control ECU.
There is apparently a recall for this part in 2010-2014 models, however as a 2008 I don't think I apply.
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I have a 2004 prius that will not start. First let me tell you what we have replaced so far (within a week) inverter pump, thermostat, water pump, battery 12V(brand new from toyota) and the inverter and it seems to be stuck in drive, but we cannot get it started to figure that one out.Code was reading p0A78 and even after changing inverter it still is reading that code is there.
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So I have had this code P0442 for a long time and I just kept clearing it. The attached picture (at an angle) shows the hole in the small line attached to the fuel neck filler exactly behind where the plastic wheel well cover touches it. Just ordered a new one from rockauto for about 65 shipped.
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Got a CEL tonight while driving. Originally I was driving and the light came on saying that my gas cap was loose. I corrected the problem when I got home and tightened again. The light stayed on however. I ran a scan with the OBDII and it gave me a code for EVAP- Very Small Leak .
I was reading around and some people suggested the MAF. Which would make sense because I recently had all of that stuff off and gave the engine a deep cleaning while it was exposed. I just don't see how the MAF could relate to the code my car is pushing?
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Last week I was on a dive trip and my RX remained parked outside for a week. As I was returning home and I was merging on the highway my CEL appeared; I used my scanner and the code was p2195, which I cleared. My RX was driven for about 5 minutes before merging onto the highway.
On my way home I needed to stop for gas, I filled up and them merged onto the highway and the CEL came on again. I used the scanner and the same code p2195- which I cleared.
I completed my drive home, and have only been doing short city driving since then an no CEL's.
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Car is a 2000 Passat Wagon 1.8T ATW FWD
I get the P1128 code and Emissions Workshop warning most of the year, then it cycles off in the summer. It went off yesterday, back on today, and I imagine it will go off again for weeks/months as the weather heats up.
Things I've tried so far:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced MAF wiring harness
Replaced front 02 sensor
Replaced air filter
Replaced cracked vacuum tubes, at least those accessible from the top. Some of the hidden lengths theoretically could be at issue but a mechanic said they were ok.
What I've not replaced is the secondary air pump. (Mechanic told me it's dry and checks okay.)
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I have a 2012 accent with 28,000 miles and today. CEL appeared while coming to a red light. I run my laptop on it and code p0461 was
Current.
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Where the fuse that controls oxygen sensors on a 1997 pontiac grand prix 3.8L engine? i read some where it is under hood fuse panel, but what is the marking for the fuse?
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I've been getting a P0442 periodically from my 97 850 wagon (base, no turbo). I've replaced the gas cap, the electrical part of the ignition switch, and all the deteriorated rubber vacuum-hose couplings I can find under the hood, but I'm still getting the code. I want to inspect the hose couplings at the evap canister, but there doesn't appear to be any way of getting to them other than removing the canister from under the car. Is there any other access to these?
Also, I've got VIDA running on my PC, and even though I've given it the VIN, it shows me the wrong evap canister in the parts diagrams. It shows the cylindrical canister, but my 850 has the rectangular canister. Where I can view accurate diagrams showing the evap components in this car?
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