Grand am is a 4cly 4speed trans. My daughter is off to school. She called and told me her speed odometer is not working. She also mentioned that it is not shifting properly if at all. Is the speed odometer operated by cable? Would the two be related to the transmission going bad?
View 4 RepliesMy speed odometer just stopped working along with the trip meter, while I was driving down the Interstate. I noticed no warning signs regarding this failure. Strange all other indications seem to work just fine on my cluster.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with a rebuilt transmission. Since the rebuild I have had an intermittent problem with the transmission not shifting into gear properly from park. When shifting from park into drive, sometimes the transmission will pause, leaving the vehicle in neutral, then slamming into drive.
The transmission was replaced in April of 09 with a leaking transmission seal. Since this time I have has this problem but have not been able to get it to be reproduced for Toyota to observe.
Purchased: February '08 (ish)- New
First Transmission Replacement- April '09- 35980 Miles
Transmission Repair- Internal Temp Sensor/leaking o-ring/Transmission Flush- 9/13/11- 101k miles
I have a 94 Camry 2.2. When I am driving 45 MPH the transmissions acts like it is shifting into N or OD and then the RPMS fluctuate between idle and 1500 or so. Then when I it will shift hard because the car has decelerated. If I stay in the throttle during this it just jerks or lunges.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2013 F-150 Lariat 5.0 L, 6 speed auto transmission crew cab truck with 44,000 miles on it. Recently I have experienced problems with the transmission not shifting properly. Three times when I have started out of my driveway, it has shifted into 2nd gear while I am going only 2-3 mph up my driveway which is about a 10-12 degree incline. It stays in 2nd gear even if I stop. When I pull out onto the highway, it shifted normally into the remaining gears. Then, the other night as I was returning home, while traveling up the road, it shifted into 5th gear and stayed there even when it needed to downshift. A wrench i-con appeared on my screen, my odometer showed dash lines instead of mileage and my seatbelt i-con appeared. When I got home, I shut the truck off and restarted it and everything was normal again. I have driven the truck a couple more times with no issues. The transmission shifts normally. Could a sensor be going bad ?
View 2 RepliesTook my car in for oil/filter change and in some odd circumstance, the young mechanic managed to drain 1 liter of transmission oil out of my car (which I didn't know at the time). After driving for 10 minutes (~5 km), I noticed my reverse gear wasn't shifting properly. After ~30 minutes of driving, my car was smoking from the exhaust pipe (turns out he had overfilled my engine oil too!!). Took the car back in to complain the mechanic supervisor claims my transmission is still fine and all I need to do is refill the lost fluid. Another independent mechanic later tells me my transmission line is likely fried if I had experienced what I did, and those guys should be responsible to replace everything. Since fluids have been topped up, I have no proof of who is right. So my question is, if I only drove for maximum 50 km after my transmission fluid was drained and engine oil overfilled, would that be enough to cause serious damage to the car?
View 10 RepliesThe car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
In my 2011 F-250, 6.7, auto....it seems that at certain times went the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd and I pause with acceleration, for some reason the tranny seems to go into a slip mode and then slams into 3rd. Now I read about 8 months ago that there was a computer upgrade via Ford. Which they did when I was having some work done on the truck at the dealership.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a used 2001 E350 with a 7.3L and the transmission is not shifting properly. It will go into Reverse no problem, put it in "D" and it starts in high gear and will not shift out. If I manually shift from 1 to 2 to "D" it works fine and will even go into OD. It will not down shift on its own either. What should I do to fix this issue?
View 2 RepliesToday I was driving getting on the highway while having the clutch engaged I went to shift into third and it was very hard to get it into gear. For the rest of the day today this was a problem and especially at higher rpm. I am pretty sure my clutch is going. I asked around local and they say it is the clutch. Do I need to also replace my flywheel or can I just use my old one?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 f150 4.6L 4x4 Standard Transmission and today I hopped in it to go to work, and the Speedo, Trip Odometer, and Odometer all are not working.
This is the first time it has happened to me, what could cause this or have a problem similar to this and know how to fix it?
2002 Honda Accord V6 230,000+ miles----The engine is good (well good for having been driven over 230,00miles) a/c is cold, interior is good, exterior is good. Transmission, not so good. Big question is do I (well, not me personally)put in a re-built trans. and keep driving or buy a newer car. This is one of three cars I own, but it gets driven a lot
View 9 Repliesmy 2002 Hyundai accent with 1.6 engine and the manual transmission has a problem in that where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is very loose. the problem is in the transmission, not the axel. Is there a bearing in the transmission for this. Or is there something else that could do it.
View 3 RepliesWhen backing up in reverse I come to a stop and shift into drive. About 60% of the time it slams into gear (Drive). It feels as if someone rearended me. It's a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country with 40K miles. 2 dealers worked on it, reprogramed the computer and replaced 2 seloniods and the problem is still there. What is wrong but said thats typical on that 6 speed. What to do next?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 f250hd that shifts into 4th at about 25mph and lugs the motor down, then shift back to 3rd (maybe its 2nd and 3rd). It will keep shifting back and forth until you get up to speed, or if i'm in town i will put it in second.
No codes but the tranny fluid is dirty. I changed the filter the other day but didn't have time to flush it as it was getting dark and the line into the tranny was pretty rusted and starting to strip. Also there was no burnt smell. I'm planning on taking it in to have it flushed this week.
I have a 2012 Camry SE I4. The problem is my car speed odometer is faster than my radar detector speed. I have 2 detectors and they are both not show the same speed compare to the speed odometer. For example, I am going 70mph, the detector reads like 67-68mph. So the speed odometer is off about 2-3mph. I have OEM size on my car. I know the GPS on my detector is more accurate. So my speed odometer has problem?
View 14 RepliesToday when i started driving my car this morning the tiptronic just stopped working....I can shift into the manual column, but when I try to change gears, it just does nothing. I can't even tell if it works intermittently. It shifted up when i was trying to shift down in a few cases. When this would happen, the gear numbers would still pop up on the dash to tell me what gear i was in. Sometimes when I slide it into the manual column, it just remains in "auto mode" if you wil entirely.
The numbers don't pop up on the dash signaling manual mode, and trying to shift does nothing. I even had one moment where it was in "manual mode" when the selector was actually still in the automatic mode. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason. Sometimes it goes into manual but just wont shift, and sometimes it wont even switch to manual mode. What would cause this? It seems like such an odd problem, I would assume it's electrical...
I bought a friends 95 f350 7.3 powerstroke with an E4OD. The truck quit driving.the OD light is not blinking. I confirmed the OD light does light up.The trans fluid is full , red and does not smell burnt. I have tried to manually shift 1st and second nothing happens. No reverse. Where should I look for the problem? Solenoid pack, loose valve body, bad relay?
View 1 RepliesMy van has quit me finally. It only has 98,000 original miles on it. Right now the car really smells like it is loading up and not properly burning fuel. Also a huge amount of white smoke is coming from the exhaust pipe. The oil pressure is good. could it be as simple as new plugs and plug wires, coil pack etc.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 1995 F150 4x4 with the 351 Windsor. Upon driving it I realized the speedo didn't work, transmission shifted hard,and OD light blinking. After googling my issue I found out it was the VSS. I climbed under the truck to find out the VSS isn't even plugged in. I searched for the wire but could not find it, only a spliced cable.....
View 4 RepliesWhat may be causing my car to harshly shift fron 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd the 3rd. One solution some one had was to replace the:
"TPS (throttle position sensor). The other reason for hard shift is a worn Boost valve and will need to be replaced, or a faulty transmission fluid EPC (electronic pressures control valve). Both Boost valve and EPC are located in the Valve Body and can be replaced with out dropping the valve body, but have to drop the transmission pan".
I did just recently top off the tranny fluid because it was running a bit low but there is no leak....