Grand AM :: Intermittent Vibration When Going On The Highway
Aug 19, 2011
Since a while I'm getting a vibration.... when going on the highway, the vibration is NOT there initially. Then it gradually get stronger and stronger as distance goes on, but same speed.
Hitting the brakes make the pedal vibrate sometime, but fade out. then the vibration is gone for a bit, and come back slowly.
Note that this is at a constant 100km/h, not increasing speed. I ruled out the wheel balance due to the fact that it's not constant. Everything seems to be tight, couln't feel any movement in anything.
Brake on the left side is way hotter than the right side, so I do suspect that the right side do not work correctly.
Sometime the wheel also kick on the left a bit while braking. I do not know if it's 2 problems or a single one. At last wheel swap, the calipers seemed to slide correctly.
Also, I think I have air in the brake line, as the pedal is too smooshy for my taste, and I can't seems to be able to make the abs kick in (but good tires, so might be the reason?)
Note: top plates on the front suspension seems to have a bit of play, but I believe it have no effect on this issue.
The winter tires, on separate rims, also do the same thing. It seems to get worse as time goes by.
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My 04 Solara 3.3L vibrates like crazy at highway speeds, but the vibration goes away after a couple of miles, only to return again later, and it isn't a tire balance issue. The vibration comes on quickly, and I have to hold the wheel with both hands, then it slowly diminishes and runs smooth again.
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I have a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 2.3 L. I went 3 blocks yesterday to the highway and as i got ready to pull out onto the highway I lost power (like foot feed to the floor and going 20 mph). Drove it back home (3 blocks) and the engine is over heating within 3 blocks but temp gage isn't registering over heating (Incredibly hot under the car within 3 blocks). Engine was shaking badly and whatever it was blew a hole in my muffler? Put on all new spark plugs, oil change, oil filter... No more shaking in the motor but still no power when trying to go. Cut catalytic converter off and tried to drive out of the driveway, still no power on acceleration.
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Sometimes get a no-start on my car, turn key, nothing have dash lights and headlights, but they do not dim when i turn key, car will also not start in neutral, Had lock cylinder with vats wires replaced, and neutral safety switch was cleaned and adjusted. I even try using remote start and will not with that. this happens every few days or can go a week before problem starts again.
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My 05 Grand Am has about 75,000 miles on it. It has been a good car minus the occational strut mount replacement and front wheel bearing assembly. This cruise control problem has been going on for a couple years now.
It will just randomly quit while i'm going down the highway. Sometimes it wont do it for weeks, or sometimes do it 10 times in a 30 mile drive. Sometimes it will resume after i press the button once, sometimes i can hit it many times, sometimes it just seems to quit for a minute or two.
The wife and i took a 3 hour roadtrip this weekend and i was fuming after hitting the resume button dozens of times. We had alot of interstate traffic to dodge, alot of people on my butt. Thats not the greatest time for the cruise to be having problems.
She had it at the dealership right before the warranty was up and they said they "think" they know what it is, but their insurance company wont let them just change out $500 parts just because they "think" it's that part. I didn't hear about this at first from her or we would have made them fix it. What good is a warranty if they wont fix the problem you have?
I was hoping this is a common occurance with an easy fix. I am pretty good at working on my own vehicles so i can check certain parts if need be. What seems to be the most common problems to check when your cruise control has these problems?
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My 05 GP randomly decides not to start. it turns over well but no fire . Sometimes even when I just stop for gas when its already warm. if I leave it for a few minutes usually it will start, run a little rough for a minute then run fine till next episode. no faults show up. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump relay was acting up.
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L
Problem "Stalls at idle and at hwy speed" sometimes starts right up and sometime will not start. Sometimes it will lose acceleration but engine will still be running and you can punch the gas and it will go again.
It has been in the shop for most of the last 2 months. Driven in 3 times and hauled in twice.
Low mileage 70,000 - has been great until now - serviced regularly.
Did get new fuel pump only about 10,000 miles ago do to starting problem but in that case it just did not start.
Independent shop replaced distributor cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter. No codes and couldn't duplicate problem.
Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump (they said wiring problem), O2 sensor, engine module no help, they asked us to pick up car because it ran fine. It stalled within 2 miles of shop.
We replaced gas cap just in case.
Limped back to shop to replace crank sensor as it was suggested several places. Ran fine for about 45 minutes then back to old tricks. Relays have been checked. Still at shop trying to trace problem. At least nobody is saying they can't duplicate problem as it now stalls all the time.
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One day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
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I just replaced the passenger wheel hub assembly (and axle due to complications) and the noise is still there. I have a loud hum that starts at about 30mph, is present when going straight, but gets much louder as the steering wheel is turned to the left. It is completely gone when turning to the right. It gets louder with speed and how much the wheel is turned left. At highway speeds, on a long sweeping left-hand curving connector, the noise is VERY LOUD. There is a slight vibration that occurs, but it's not bad at all. The noise continues when the trans is in neutral. I've even shut off the car while testing this in a parking lot, and the noise continues. The noise varies depending on the height or load of the suspension. It varies as the car rides over dips in the road.
I really though it would end up being the passenger wheel hub, even though there was no noticeable play in either hub. I've had noisy hubs before that had no noticeable play. But after a very obnoxious repair, it's not the hub. All tie rods have no play. All 4 heels were recently aligned. The alignment made no difference in the noise. I replaced a bad tranny mount about a year ago. Motor mounts look good. Ball joints are good. Replaced axles about 3 years ago. Replaced bad struts and strut mounts about a year ago. New control arms due to bad bushings. All these things I've replaced recently were making noises too, but the left-hand hum is always present. This is my last noise and it's driving me crazy. I've always felt it comes more from the driver's side, but my wife disagrees and my hearing isn't great due to too much range time.
Oh, I recently noticed that the steering wheel tends to want to return to center from the right more than it does from the left. Again, alignment was done by a reputable garage just a few months ago. They also found nothing during there safety inspection. I also noticed that the car is not sitting level as it seems that the rear driver-side spring is sagging about 1.5". The noise is not very obvious from outside the car. I know I'm forgetting some other things I've checked for this problem. I'll post more as I think of it.
My current theories are driver's-side hub, something with the steering rack, spring heights, something vibrating (body panel, loose part?), something with the auto-tranny.
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This new discussion is for owners of 2006 Grand Vitara 4x4 SUV with the automatic transmission. Experiencing a vibration while accelerating between 45-60 MPH. This is an on-going problem for many of us and we need to make sure that Suzuki of America hears us loud and clear, and develops a solution.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester. It will cool just fine while not moving. It will also cool just fine if I'm coasting down a hill with my foot off the gas. However, on the highway I have intermittent cooling. It cools for 10-15 seconds and then it blows what feels like straight vent for 10-15 seconds. It has a new compressor, receiver/dryer, and expansion valve and is fully charged.
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2010 FJ Cruiser has an intermittent shimmy that you can feel in the steering wheel at highway speeds. Noticed it not long after new tires. Go around a long curve and it starts, then stays until you go around another curve and then stops. It is as if the wheels have to align a certain way for some harmonic effect. I had the tires rebalanced and rotated. My mechanic said they balanced up very well. Shimmy is better but not gone. Wierdest thing is that when it happens, if I keep my foot on the gas and gently press the brake the shimmy stops and the returns as soon as I let up on the brake. When I asked my mechanic if it could be 2 slightly warped rotors he said the shimmy would be worse braking not better.
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A friend of mine has a '93 Explorer 4x4 with an automatic. He's getting an intermittent shake at highway speeds. It shows up every 5-10 minutes or so. Apparently the problem has been going on for a few months now. I took it for a test drive the other day, and it feels similar to driving on rumble strips. It shakes in both 2wd and 4wd, but he says it seems worse in 4wd. The vibration feels more like it's coming through the seat than the steering wheel. The vibration will go away if you take the foot off of the accelerator, or if you pull it down into Drive. He's got about 220K miles on it. The previous owner said the transmission was rebuilt about 30K miles ago, but who knows. He's had it in the shop for a couple of days, and they've checked the usual suspects - u-joints, ball joints, and the sort.
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I just purchased a 99 Rodeo 4X4 with the 5-speed stick. It makes an intermittent high pitched squealing noise at highway speeds. This noise comes up through the floor right about where the center console glove box is. In fact, it really sounds like it is coming from the console glove box.
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My girlfriend's Elantra (mid 90s model, I think) makes an intermittent noise when on the highway. It sounds to me like it could either be from friction or some sort of wind noise, but I suspect it's the former. It only seems to happen at speeds above 50 or so. When it occurs, it is always the same pitch and loudness -- these don't seem to vary. It's rather loud, to the point where it is pretty unpleasant to drive when this is going on. It has happened both when my foot is on and off the gas pedal. When the noise happens, it can last anywhere from just a second to up to a minute or more. I haven't been able to identify anything obvious that it's correlated with -- wind direction, grade of road, etc. The only thing I do know is that it only seems to happen at highway speeds. We never hear it during city driving. So far one mechanic has confidently misdiagnosed the problem as a bad wheel bearing.
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It has been just about a year since I bought my CPO 2007 GX470, and I still love it like the first day I drove her! I've noticed one little thing I can't put my finger on, though - an intermittent rumbling/rattling sound coming from the ceiling during high speed highway driving and/or high winds.
Now, I've checked the sunroof itself, and there doesn't appear to be any "give" to it. It's solid. Same for the surrounding parts of the mechanism. Yet for some reason, during 70+ MPH driving and/or high winds, I get this low-pitched "WHUUUM..WHUUUUM..." vibration from somewhere above my head.
Haven't taken it to the dealer yet since I'd like to identify the issue myself if I can, but it's hard to isolate when you're focused on driving.
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A while back, I bought some aftermarket rims for my '15 Golf to replace the sad 15" 195-section tires that came stock, and got 17 Sparco Pro Corsa rims with BF Goodrich gforce comp-2 all seasons.It drove great for a few weeks, (beautifully, even). Then I hit the mother of all potholes. My stomach sank the moment I ran over this product of poor infrastructure management. Little did I know I would be cursing this moment for months to come.The next day was when the vibration started. At this point, it started at 50 mph or so, and just got worse on the highway. I had to get 2 new rims on the right side, and the people at AAA said it was fine. It wasn't fine. Really, it wasn't any better.
So I took it back, and advised that I replace the two tires, because it was highly likely they had slipped belts from the impact. A couple more hundred dollars later, it was... a little better. But it wasn't back to normal. By this point I was done with AAA, and went to the dealer. They noticed that one of the spacers was installed crooked. Great. They fixed that, and didn't notice anything wrong until the next time I went on the interstate, when I noticed that, indeed, it still was vibrating. This time, however, it was just above 65 mph.This is where I should describe the vibration in greater detail. From 0 to 65, nothing is wrong.
But as soon as I hit 65, the steering wheel shimmys and the car whole car lightly shakes. It goes in and out, like it is being occasionally canceled out, and is not throtttle, braking, or turning sensitive.Back to the dealer it was, and of course, they could not find the root of my frustration. They did put the stock wheels on, and the vibration stopped. With the aftermarket ones, it still did vibrate, even with a rotation, balancing, alignment, et cetera.So, the question is: what the heck is going on? How can this be A) diagnosed and B) fixed without getting new wheels/tires or renting a chassis dyno?
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2012 F250. 15k miles. It's intermittent, speed related, some sort of resonance or harmonic. WoooOOMMmm....woooOoMm, maybe every two seconds at 70 mph. Worn out tires once made a similar sound on a car I owned. This was severe inner wear on the rears. I'm not sure whether it's new or something I just never noticed; it's subtle.
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For a while I had been having vibration at between 60-80mph I think I mentioned it in a thread before too. Well anyway when I got my 30,000 mi check up they told me it was probably due to the tires being unbalanced and that my tires were in such bad shape that balancing them woudln't make a difference. So I got to new tires (and my rims as you all remember) from NTB. I took it back to Toyota to get the alignment done after that I got on the highway to see if it was vibrating still and it was so they told me to bring back in.
So today they told me one of the tires that I got at NTB was bad because they couldn't get it balance within the range of the other 3 tires so I took the car back to NTB got into it with the guy there and they eventually saw things my way and put a new tire on the car. So after that I get back on the high way the car starts vibrating right when it hits 60. So I take back to Toyota, the guy tells, I heard him mention to one of the mechanics that it might be a bad axle.
Around 6:30 or so they call me and tell me they are going to take rims and tires off a brand new Camry and put them on my car and the manager who lives far away is going to drive my car home and then back again in the morning to get a better idea of the problem with the car. And to top that off they wanted to charge me 40 bucks for a rental car, but luckily I can drive my dad's Cam to work.
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Hyundai Elantra 2002.
First I want to tell you some details about the tires... The front tires are from different brands, the right one is Nexen Radial N5000 P195/60R15 and the left one is a Pirelli P400 P195/60R15. The back tires are the same brand but they are a little big bigger, P195/65R15.
After saying that... I'm feeling a vibration when I go faster than 100 km/h on the highway, it makes me feel insecure, when I go at 90 km/h the car is fine, the vibration is not only at the wheel, I can feel it in the entire car... Could be the different tires? Unbalance? Alignment? Rotation? Perhaps a problem with the RIMs?
And also, I hear a toc toc toc noise at the right front side of the car when I turn and brake at the same time... I just hear that noise when I turn and brake, when I'm going straight or I turn without brake I don't hear nothing.
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On my 09' passat wagon 2.0t: I've been on a couple of long highway runs and noticed that my steering wheel is vibrating slightly at higher speeds. Naturally I went for a wheel balance. They showed me one rim was slightly bent from a pot hole or something, but they were able to balance it and put it in the rear. Still a vibration. Took it back to the tire shop and they checked the balance again.
At this point I was still noticing the vibration and went so far as to swap the "damaged" wheel with another off of a passat with the same wheels. No difference noticed. Is it my imagination or is the steering so light in these passats that im feeling every imperfection of the road? I don't remember the car always feeling like this. I am at 14k miles and have the crappy stock good year tires.
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