When coasting to a stop, I have noticed when the rpms reach 1000-1100 they jump up a little bit. Sometimes you can even feel the car lurch forward just a tiny bit. Is this normal for a car downshifting??
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford F150. 273,000 miles on it. When I am going about 50 mph and I start down a hill and let off the gas a bit and then when at the base of the hill I push on the gas to accelerate then sometimes it does a weird hesitation or slight "lurch" but it is NOT in the engine. The engine continues to run smoothly during this lurch. It only happens between 45 and 55 mph. It only seems to happen when I am trying to accelerate out of a coast. I had the dealer check underneath thinking it might be a u-joingt? They said everything underneath seems to be in good shape. Someone told me to consider Ring and Pinion Slop problem in the rear differential? When I read about that it seems that it normally makes a noise. There is no noise with my truck's problem.
View 1 RepliesTwice today with cooling temps (45 during the day, closer to 30s on way home) while shutting down after being put in park my Prius did the "lurch forward and shudder." This is something new! Fuel has been purchased consistently from the same Shell station, she's garaged at night and MPGs are averaging 45... OK but nowhere near my great warm weather mileage. We are at close to 2200 on the odometer if my memory is working right - 2012 4 version. Happened once at the bank after work, once in the garage, level ground.
Not sure what is going on... this is new to me with a new car....
I have a brand new 2010 Passat. I am unable to achieve a smooth start from stops and the car will lurch forward when I take my foot off the brake. Any small input from the gas pedal produces a jumpy start to the acceleration process. I have about 300 miles on the car. I bought this for my wife and she is very uneasy about driving it.
View 18 RepliesIntermittent problem, noticed mostly at low speeds, where car will buck or lurch forward. Most noticeable when accelerating after a slowdown, i.e. applying gas after coasting. No check engine lights, oil & transmission fluid is full. Car has 105K miles, tranny & coolant flushed every 30K, oil changed every 3K, tuneup w/plugs& wires @ approx. 93K, timing belt @ 70k. This car is a gem, mostly driven on the highway that has been perfect until now. Things I've considered doing: replacing timing belt, transmission solenoid, computer sensor that controls tranny. My suspicion is its tranny related but maybe not. Is there a way to check/set the timing on this car? I remember years ago using a timing light on my chevy. This is weird, it will run perfect smooth in the morning and rough with lurching in the afternoon. Could be a total coincidence but it seems to run ok when its cool and not so when it is hotter.
View 8 RepliesI have the not-so-uncommon grinding brakes problem too. In my case, however, there is a scarier difference: if I have to stop suddenly and hit the brakes hard, I hear the grinding and the car kind of shakes, but then as the car is decelerating, I will actually get the feeling that the brakes have totally disengaged, and the car will lurch forward! If I then depress the brakes quickly, they will engage again and stop the car. I've had a couple of close calls in heavy traffic when cars in front of me have stopped suddenly.
I guess that the grinding might be the ABS, but I've never heard of ABS causing your brakes to konk out completely! It's to the point where I'm scared to drive the car if I know there's going to be much traffic. I bought this Elantra last October to have a nice new car to drive my 6 and 4 year old around, so I'm very unimpressed, and scared, with the whole situation.
So I just bought a 2004 Ford Focus. I did not drive above 15mph when I tested the car due to the lake effect snow that was occuring. Now that I own the car I have noticed if you try to stop going over 20mph the car starts to stop but last second it lurches forward a little bit. There is also a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from the back and a loud vibration that sounds like its coming from underneath the middle of the car. I'm trying to figure out if it is the brakes, tires or a leak in a brake line (those are all things my dad said it might be).
View 4 RepliesVERY interested in the 2.0T but when I test drove it this weekend, the transmission seemed to lurch when I was gradually gaining speed from a stop. I wasn't trying to press the accelerator hard. Just driving it like I would my car and gradually gain speed while driving economically. The 2.4 seemed to do this less, but it also did it.
For those who own 2.0Ts, could y'all tell me if this is normal? I plan on test driving other 2.0T in the event the one I drove was an exception, but just curious.
I'm stuck in a bad situation. With my work schedule it will be literally a month until I have time to look at my car during daylight. I may be able to drop it off next week.
Anyhow, the R is making a horrendous high pitched noise while coasting to a stop. This starts at just under 30 mph and is most pronounced in neutral. Accelerating in gear stops it. It is loud inside and louder outside and there is some rough "clanking" associated with it. My guess is a belt or bearing. It is coming from the front passenger side.
I have a 77 F250 4X4, 400, C6. Upshifts and downshifts are working normally, except under light load and minimal throttle the tranny downshifts to 2nd at any speed under 40 mph. I've never had an automatic do this before. I checked the kickdown linkage is pulled up so it's doesn't seem to be in kickdown position always, no vacuum leaks to the modulator. I confess to be more of a manual trans guy so my knowledge is autos is limited.
View 2 RepliesI've noticed that when I'm coasting to a stop and my speed gets to about 27 MPH, the transmission downshifts (RPMs increase) until I reach about 22 MPH. I'm not applying the brakes at the time.
It's a bit annoying as it sometimes bleeds off just enough speed that I need to accelerate to reach the point I was planning to stop at. Is this normal?
I have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it... with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's).
View 14 RepliesI purchased a ES300h in March 2013. Starting end of September I noticed a rattle (pebbles in a tin can tumbling sound) when I went up a slight grade, accelerating from a stop, or accelerating after a brief coasting on the freeway. The first time at the dealer they said stop using Costco gas and use Top Tier. I used Shell and Chevron and there was a 80% improvement but the nuisance still continued, some days more and some days less, meaning when it rained it poured.
On the third visit to the dealer, with two specialists on a ride along of course it does not make that noise, but left it there for them to find the continued problem and they conceded it is engine knock to which there is nothing out of specs with the engine AND say that this is normal. I have never had a car do this, maybe specific to hybrids? The service advisor goes on to tell me that they filled my tank with 91 octane to stop the knock, BUT, the manual says use 87!!!
Some say this can lead to engine damage, some say only blown gasket, the dealer says no problem! A friend of mine has the same car and has no issues.
Experiencing a noisy engine....especially when braking or coasting to a stop?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am, it has a V6. I live in AZ, so right now its like 110 outside and my ac will work fine when i am driving but when i stop at a stoplight it starts blowing hot but when I start driving again it takes about a minute and then it will blow cold again and it does this same thing at every stoplight, but if the car is just idling in my yard with the ac on it blows cold it doesn't do this, I thought maybe it was low on freon and bought a can of ac pro with a gauge and when i checked the pressure it went into the red so it says not to add any, and contact a mechanic. But what may be wrong with it first, I replaced the ac compressor 2 years ago. A couple of days ago I replaced all the radiator hoses and the radiator and the coolant tank and of course added the right amount of dexcool. The car is not getting hot, the problem is just with the ac ,
View 8 RepliesWhen I am stopped and remove my foot from the brake, the car shudders as it moves forward. This happens when I do not give it any throttle. The idle forward is jerky...like it pulses. It feels like when you let the clutch out too slow on a manual trans. The DSG in all it's techno-glory should be able to release it's clutch(s) smoothly one would think? It happens when I am waiting in line at a stop sign or in traffic...anytime I need to idle forward slowly. I've been driving it for less than a week...it has 320 miles and I'm keeping it under the limits for break-in (BORING). Anyway, the thought of taking it for service at this point is depressing..
View 15 RepliesWith summer heating up so is the engine. Temp stays normal at freeway speeds but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic it shoots up. Water pump is two years old. I flushed the radiator and didn't get much gunk out. Both fans are running when the AC is on. If I shut the car off but leave the key on the fans do not run when the car is not. I can't remember if they used to or not.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1
I have a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon. I got gas this am, and on my 30 minute drive to work all was fine until I got into traffic or came to a stop sign. While at the stop sign the car started to lurch forward or even seemed to be up and down. The idle was fine, completely constant. It was like the car was hopping or wanting to push forward. It did not happen in reverse or neutral and the car was fine while driving. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesI'm getting some vibrations from my '06 2.0T. The car tries to jerk forward at a dead stop, RPMs jump about 100-200RPM. It kinda feels like stalling a manual transmission, only milder. The car is burning a bit more oil than it should.
Many claim it could be a faulty PCV Valve. Since I'm a little on the broke side and my car is out of warranty, what should I look for to tell if the valve or the hose is faulty?
I have a '90 Bonneville SSE and after coming to a stop at a red light on the highway, when the light turned green the car wouldn't move forward. There were no odd noises, the car had been in cruise control and there had been no problems up to that point. The car shifted crisply, there was no obvious slippage or hesitation going into gear.
I can feel the car engage in both drive and reverse, but it won't move at all.
i am wondering if any other touareg v-10 owners have experienced what i call "slop in the drivetrain"?symptoms: when just crawling off from a dead stop and then letting off of the pedal i can both hear and feel a little clunk whether forward or reverse. its real subtle but its always there if you listen for it. Is this just what they call normal "slash" of the worm gears in the differentials? i would hate to find out later once warranty's gone that i should have done something about it earlier? i have 19,000 miles on it, 70%highway and 30% city driving.
View 5 Replies