Having issues with there Grand AM over heating? I've got a 99 Grand AM SE , & it's over heating. I cannot drive it more then 5 minutes without it starting to over heat. I'm getting no where fast with this vehicle.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix. The needle on the temp gauge will float up and down after about five mins. of drive time...after a short period of time, however, it will settle around 200 degrees or so. (The heater will not blow warm air while the needle is floating.) The only time the needle starts to rise is when the vehicle is stopped in traffic, but even then, it never gets into the "red." The car never overheats and I have yet to see any coolant on the driveway.
View 1 RepliesI own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
View 13 RepliesI was in traffic the other day on the express way and I noticed my engine was starting to overheat. I think it has something to do with the AC because as soon as I turned it off the temp went back to normal. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesWe will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
The engine fan in my 2003 MC SS doesn't seem to be working and the car is starting to overheat. The other fan, which I think is the A/C fan seems to be working okay. I know nothing about cars and before I take this to a mechanic. I do not want to go somewhere and get totally ripped off. So it would be nice if I appear to know what I am talking about... when I take it to the mechanic.
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 Grand Prix GT has been having problems. Here's what it does:
*Turn the key, it cranks but wont turn over.
*Turn the key, it will turn over but dies immediately.
*Turn they key, it will idle smoothly for a few seconds - minutes and eventually die.
So far I have replaced my Fuel pump and filter.
My grand voyager 1997 plymouth 3.3 looses fuel pressure overnight... It won't start until I crank it for 5 min or longer... I checked with fuel gauge tester, and while it runs it reads 50lbs, after hours it drops to 0 ... Injectors don't leak ... What's up with this van?
View 3 RepliesThis is my dad's car.... Today it began taking a while to start. It will turn over, just doesn't start. If you crank on it a while it will eventually start then runs perfectly fine. The problem occurs both cold and hot. I tried cycling the key 5 times, each time until you hear the fuel pump shut off then cycle again... it's starts just fine doing that. If you shut it off then try to restart, it'll just sit there and crank until you cycle the key a few times. There's no check engine light or OBD codes.
The fuel pump only runs for a second or two when you flip on the key, which tells me it's not having a problem coming up to pressure... and I'd imagine if I had a fuel pressure issue, it wouldn't be running smoothly and I'd have some hesitation, right?
I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am se that was overheating and I found out that it had a blown headgasket and the fuel pump was going out. So I changed the head gasket and fuel pump. After all that I proceeded to start it but all it did was crank and not start. I did Research on the passlock and bypassed it and the security light stopped blinking and went away but all it did was crank and not start. Could the timing be off and cause it not to start? It gets correct ammout of fuel and correct compression? Also the timing chain is loose enough for me to jiggle it.
View 8 RepliesMy GA has been sluggishly starting for the last 3 days, usually the first start of the morning then fine the rest of the day. Today is the first day that it has done it during the day. I stopped at Advance Auto on way home and they ran a test on it. I'm attaching the results of it to get your feedback on the possibilities. The battery was replaced in March 2010, the alternator in November 2010.
View 9 RepliesSo we've been having trouble with the car which is a 2000 Grand Am SE 2.4ltr. This all started a month ago. One day the car wouldn't start. I bought a new battery (old one was 5 years old time for a new one) and started and ran just fine for the first day. The next day the car did not start. After having my brother in law check it out, he suggested we get a new fuel pump relay so I went out and bought it. It fixed the problem and the car was starting and running again. A few days later while my brother and I where driving down south, the car shut off while driving. It started happening more and more to the point were it happened everyday.
When the car shuts off, all the lights stay on and a noise comes from the dashboard. The noise sounds electrical. The car usually would start after 30 minutes to an hour. Last night it shut off on me and it didn't start after 2 hours of sitting on the side of the road. It doesn't happen at highway speeds, only really while driving locally. Now the car is still not starting and I've no clue as to what could be the problem. I've read that it can be a number of things. From the fuel pump, dirty fuel filter, ecu, ignition coil, etc.
I have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
I have a 97 GTP. When I am at idle, I get a very loud rattling noise coming from the drive belt area of the engine. The noise goes away when you rev the engine up, but returns immediately when idling. I removed the supercharger belt assembly, and then noise still occurs. This just started tonight out of the blue, and It is extremely loud.
View 14 RepliesAs I mentioned in the title, I have a 1999 GMC Suburban with about 150000 miles. I love the car, but lately, it has been acting peculiar immediately after starting it. Whether hot or cold weather, the car will sputter, pop, backfire, buck and generally not get up and go for the first 3-5 minutes the engine is running. I can put the gas to the floor and the car continues to sputter along at about 20 mph - bugging the heck out of drivers behind me. If I do lay on the accelerator, however, the car will rev high RPMs as if it wants to go through the gears behave like it's in neutral.
After about 3 minutes of sputtering, the car will again start accelerating as if nothing is wrong. This happens every time I start it.
I have to wait to shift from park for any where from 2 to 15 minutes after starting the car (1999 passat). Is this a feature or if it is because it is too cold out (it has been around 0 degrees F) or is it an electrical problem???
View 7 RepliesI purchased my 92 Silverado in Dec. 2008. Since I got it the temperature control display has been blinking 'A/C' for 2 minutes after starting, than goes away. From the owner's manual and the GM service manual I realize this means there is a problem in the A/C system. I figured that it was low on refrigerant since the compressor clutch would never kick on, that and that is what it typically has been in the past with other older vehicles. After buying the retrofit 134a kit, I recovered the stuff that was in it, then proceeded to add the new stuff.
The pressure kept rising but the clutch never engaged. I looked through the GM service manual and they suggested to do the obvious. Is there power to the wires i.e. the cycling switch and the clutch positive wire. There was not. I inserted a jumper on the cycling wires figuring this would complete the circuit telling me if the switch was bad or not. With jumping the cycling switch I still had nothing, the clutch never engaged. My next thought was well maybe the internal clutch relay or the pump was shot. So I ran a jumper from the positive post of the battery, to the positive post on the clutch relay itself. Then the clutch kicked in, I sucked in the 134a and everything was working. I also did this to the cycling switch, when I added power the clutch engaged and all worked.
This tells me I have an electrical issue and the mechanical stuff should work. I don't believe that it would be the cycling switch because with it jumped it should engage the clutch of the compressor and it did not, In fact it did nothing with a jumper on the cycling wires. I assume that I have an issue elsewhere that is causing a dead spot in the system or else the cycling switch would have power to it.
92 Dakota 3.9L ... Starts and runs great. Engine shuts down, usually within first 30 minutes after starting. No shutter, just as if you turned off the key. It has not been an everyday occurrence.
I can wait 2 minutes or spray brake cleaner in the intake and it will restart. It will run the rest of the day and never happens again on the same day, even with multiple restarts and driving 100 miles.
I have installed a new ASD relay, new fuel pump relay, new fuel pump, new crank sensor and new air valve controller on the intake. They can't seem to catch it when it happens.
OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
See the video : [URL] ....
I've got a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 automatic (essentially a small version of a VW Polo, sold in Europe). It's got 65000miles on it. The car starts up just fine the first time, summer or winter. If you shut off the motor after a short time, 5 or 10 minutes, restarting it can be a problem. If this happens a third time, starting will be even more difficult. If you drive for awhile restarting is no problem, the pattern starts over again. I've replaced the battery, plugs, gas filter, had the distributor looked at. Restarting became marginally better.
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