The A/C low pressure hose is leaking right by the fan. Is there any way to repair it without replacing the entire hose? The leak is toward the middle of the hose, so there is plenty of room to install some sort of insert. I don't know what would be the best type of insert such as: Brass, Steel, Plastic or Aluminum.
View 2 RepliesJust replaced power steering pressure hose while engine out as PM. New hose wasn't correct shape so I bent the tubing to fit. I later realized that I bought a hose for power steering without variable assist and the hose for variable assist looks correct.
Is there any harm in leaving the "w/o variable assist" hose in now?
I have a 1989 Honda Accord DX with less than 120k miles. I have two problems.
1) the low pressure hose for the power steering has worn out and is leaking by the fittings (badly) and I can't find the parts to fix it. The high pressure hose was also leaking but we found and replaced that part, and
2) I accidentally topped off the power steering reservoir with brake fluid (this was after I already knew the leaks existed).
I have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?
How to identify this 'leaking' coolant hose? (cooler hose?), I took a picture with my cell ... It shows a stainless steel coolant line with calcified Dried/heater coolant residue on the outside, and I noticed it was leaking coolant (using a periscope mirror )...
View 3 RepliesA couple weeks ago I had my first oil change - not at the dealer - but at a place I've gone a hundred times. After I noticed every day a puddle, not a couple drops but a puddle going down my driveway or wherever I parked of water.
I thought for a few days it was condensation off the engine, or the AC, since it was very hot. Except I don't use the AC much & wasn't using it when the water was leaking. I looked under the car & there is a hose hanging from the back of the engine area & dripping water.
I've honestly never looked under the car & noticed the hose & it's only hanging about an inch - so I'm not sure I've just never noticed... But until the oil change there was never a noticeable water leak..
I have been told my AC hose from the Compressor to the Condenser is leaking. How much time do I have to get repaired before AC stops cooling. Can I just get the hose replaced and about how much should it cost? This is a 2000 model.
View 3 RepliesI have 98 passat V6 and the lover radiator hose is leaking at the connector between radiator and the hose. Do I need to change the whole hose or is there maybe an o-ring that should be changed? How hard is to remove the hose? Do I have to go to the dealer?
View 2 Replies195,000 miles on a 1.8T I removed the intake hose that connects the inter cooler to the throttle body and noticed a bit of oil inside the hose. I was guessing it may have come from the turbo due to a leaky seal, but this is strictly a guess. The car doesn't consume too much oil (maybe a quart or less between changes). What is the life expectancy for a turbo?
View 2 RepliesI've noticed that my radiator hose doesn't have any pressure anymore, even after a long drive you can squeeze it nearly together, it is still hot like normal and the heater puts out hot air, the temperature gauge sits between half way between 1/4 and 1/2, would this be the radiator it's self, the thermostat or the water pump that may need replacing, there is no leaks that I can find or see...
View 5 Replies1997 Grand Prix GT N/A. 175,000. I keep getting this code about once every two weeks. I'll clear it and doesn't come back until then. I've had passengers in the back seat smell gas so I'm suspecting the vapor canister. Would a leaking canister set this code off? I checked all the vacuum lines to the purge solenoid and seem fine. Is the canister in the drivers side rear wheel well? I need to get in there and check if it's leaking. I'm having no driving issues however my gas consumption seems to be a bit more than usual. I checked the FPR and no fuel contamination.
View 2 RepliesI have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
The leak looked like it was coming from a heater hose. The individual I bought it from said he fixed it and it wasn't leaking the day I bought it. Upon driving it home...cranked the heat up and windows fogged, switched to defog with no luck. Added some coolant and still the same thing and leak began again.
It smells like antifreeze inside and fog has oily feeling when wiping it off the window. Got in on the lift and no luck seeing where it was leaking from, even with it running. My previous experience with bad heater cores is that it leaks on the inside and smells like coolant... is it leaking on the outside or is it something else?
It's NOT overheating or blowing any kind of smoke. Temp gauge read normal! It's a 4.3L, 1994 Caprice LS .....
After my accident this summer with the Ex and TT, I have a fuel leak. It appears to be coming from the hoses between the filler neck and tank.
The part # from Ford for the neck and hoses is YC3Z-9034-AA. This part is no longer available! Even NAPA the go to place and pay thru the nose for shows it as obsolete from their vendor.
I am seeing RED at this since I had zero leaks until the body shop dropped the tank to replace the hitch. The BS and INS co told me prove it was not a dry rotted house and they would pay for it. What to do for the hoses?
The Power Steering Reservoir has a small leak that makes the area under it looks oily and messy, so i followed a member's DIY PS flush, I used Walmart Supertech ATF Dexll/lll fluid but now I am thinking about using Mobil1 Synthetic ATF once I get the reservoir out.
The new red color shoes the leak is coming from the edge of the connection between the top and bottom plastic parts of the reservoir.
so my questions are:
1- How do i remove/pry or pop the reservoir out of its bracket?
2- Can i use JB Weld epoxy to glue/reinforce them parts together or just pick a used one from junkyard?
and last question: What size ID/OD is the PS fluid low pressure hose?
I am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
So I just bottomed out really hard and I pulled over to a gas station to check out my car to see if I busted anything. I noticed on the way to the gas station that for the first two times I hit the brakes hard there was a clunking noise but now it went away. Onto the leaking part though, there are two hoses that run just along the inside of the frame on the passenger side just behind the wheel and one of the lines is leaking a lot of water. What these lines run to/from? I'm going to get the car on the lift tomorrow.
View 2 Replies2001 F250- V10... Lower radiator hose has coolant leaking - Right now I cannot tell if its the hose or the radiator itself (hoping not) - I tried to take the clamp off and it broke - Any tricks to removing the hose? its on there pretty tight.... I guess if I don't want to save the hose I can rip it off with a pair of pliers but before I do that wasn't sure.
View 2 RepliesAfter chasing the smell of coolant for a couple weeks, discovered that the upper radiator hose was leaking at the engine. Based on my schedule and drive schedule, and unfamiliar location this last week, I took my truck to the last people I wanted to - the Ford dealer, where they attempted to charge for the hose replacement. During this time I discovered the nature of how these hoses work and asked the tech why they don't just replace the O-rings ... "Ford Motor Company wants to sell you a new hose with labor" - a direct quote from the Ford tech. And that is why Ford is the LAST place I want to go for repairs I cannot perform. I kept the old hose - any spot where you can get the O-rings alone?
View 5 RepliesInstalling engine after complete rebuild. The starter will turn it over and break in oil was added. How can I verify oil is flowing when I turn it over (with no fuel or spark) to avoid a dry start?
View 4 RepliesMy car is a 2006 Mazda Miata, stock except for being lowered and having a different muffler. Nothing really noteworthy about it. I did run over a big chunk of something a few years ago that cracked the plastic undertray under the nose of the car and dented the bottom row of the condenser, but the problem I'm having is more recent.
About a year ago the AC stopped working. I took it to one shop that found there was no refrigerant in the system. They refilled it, and a few hours later it stopped working again. I took it to another shop that detected a leak in one of the schrader valves (the low pressure I think). He replaced that, filled it, and it worked again for another few months.
Recently it stopped working again. I took it to the same guy that replaced the schrader valve and he found that the high pressure hose had failed. He replaced it and refilled the system. It worked for a few hours. Then when I was sitting at a drive thru, a massive cloud of refrigerant erupted from under the hood and the AC stopped working. Took it back to the guy and he found the high pressure hose had blown off. He put it back on, refilled it, and the same thing happened again. Sitting in traffic, the high pressure hose blew and all the refrigerant poured out.
I took it back to him again and he put the hose back on and refilled it again. We let the car idle for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it worked fine. During this he had the high pressure gauge hooked up and it read between 150 and 175 with the car idling (about 70 degrees F ambient temp). He didn't have the low side gauge hooked up. We did see that the fan is working and kicked up to the higher speed. He did say he checked the dryer and that it looked like the bag that held the desiccant was intact, but he didn't mention replacing the dryer in any of these visits.