My brother has an 03 GA GT. The car recently started bogging down on acceleration. It tops out at about 25 mph, and full throttle causes the car to stall. He was throwing a code for the egr valve, and replaced that. Then he threw a code for maf sensor, swapped it and no change. We've also changed the MAP, TPS, IAC, O2, Coolant Temp sensor; so far, no luck. I don't know much about these cars?
View 3 RepliesI am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
View 14 RepliesMy car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
my 97 f150 4.2L keeps stalling on acceleration. It ran fine this morning then my wife put 20 dollars of fuel in it and drove 30 miles to her destination with no problem. on her way back the truck started bucking bogging down and acting like there was a fuel problem but it didn't kill. I checked for codes there were none. I removed the fuel filter on the rail and replaced it with a new one. Now it will idle fine with no miss but if I give it gas it kills.
I checked the codes again there are none. I also checked to make sure there was fuel coming from the tank when I turned the key as well as making sure I heard the fuel pump kick on when I first turned the key.I am leaning towards water in the fuel,i didn't see any trash come out of the old filter, however I am not sure. I have a 175 mile commute to and from work.
My mom has a 2011 GL Hatchback about 20k km's... She decided to take my car this Saturday without telling me and I was stuck with hers.... All of a sudden the check engine comes on and at idle there is like a bogging going own. (Shaky putt-putt-putt-putt) early acceleration is lacking power and it smooths out at higher rpm's.
I can do minor things on my own like plugs and brakes, I would love to be able to get it running smooth again.
2001 f350. 7.3 has 350k on the engine. Last week it cut out and stalled it was about 15 degrees and though.. fuel had jeld... it warmed up.. didn't happen again. Then two night ago.. happened 4 times in a row then it was fine. yesterday a dozen times at least. It stalls but restarts itself (roll starting i guess) the water in fuel ,CEL and wait to start lights come on and then go off. We started with fuel filter, have changed the cam position sensor (yes with ford part not part stores) and now have also changed the Injection pressure sensor (also with ford part) while it needed changed as it was leaking oil the truck is Still stalling.
My dad is a technician He hooked his computer to the truck.. nothing. He was able to get the truck to recreate the problem with the scanner hooked up. When it stalls if he holds the throttle down the truck stays at an idle and the CEL, wait to start and water in fuel lights are on. It decelerates and puts along as nice as you please with the fuel peddle to the floor! let off the accelerator, lights go off and it recognizes the throttle again. No codes at all. hes thinking its the pcm telling the icp to shut off fuel. What would cause it to do that?
The grand prix is stalling at different times when driving, I cleaned mass air flow sensor. still has same issue, car stalls and have to put in neutral and start while driving.
View 6 RepliesI have a 95 Pontiac grand am with a 98 motor. Everything is factory, no modifications. I just recently starting having an issue with the car attempting to stall out while driving over bumps and on some hard turns as well. Haven't replaced anything yet but would like to know what is causing this? I have shook wires, checked for broken ones and found nothing.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 2.3 L. I went 3 blocks yesterday to the highway and as i got ready to pull out onto the highway I lost power (like foot feed to the floor and going 20 mph). Drove it back home (3 blocks) and the engine is over heating within 3 blocks but temp gage isn't registering over heating (Incredibly hot under the car within 3 blocks). Engine was shaking badly and whatever it was blew a hole in my muffler? Put on all new spark plugs, oil change, oil filter... No more shaking in the motor but still no power when trying to go. Cut catalytic converter off and tried to drive out of the driveway, still no power on acceleration.
View 5 RepliesI have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am w 3.1 engine that is my son's college car. We recently rebuilt the original engine and put it in after having a 99 monte carlo 3.1 engine in it's place and it had a head gasket problem as well. Just before we switched engines my son was noticing that it would kind of hesitate under acceleration from about 1500 rpm to around 2000 rpm especially when it was wanting to up shift. I figured it would resolve itself with the engine change. It did not. It has now gradually gotten worse.
My son drove it to Liberal about 4 hours away and he stated it was worse and especially when you would get into overdrive it would drop down to around 2000 rpm then start sputtering or loading up or just being dead then would down shift to 3rd and try to clean itself out and speed up and then up shift to OD and do the same cycle again. I drove it back and kept it in 3rd gear and seemed to run fine at 2500 or higher. I also had to go thru low, and 2 and feather it up from a standing start. It idles fine as well.
I thought it might be like one of the saturns I had which ended up having a plugged Catalytic converter and a bad coolant temp sensor. This morning I did a test hole and it made no difference. I tried a different coil pack/ESC and it made no difference. I cleaned the MAF sensor and no change. The fuel pressure is 41 then 38 when idling then 43 when remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. I also changed the fuel filter.
I was kind of ruling out the tps, iac, and egr and water temp sensor as those were part of the other engine when I put the other engine in so they are different and I am assuming they must be good. Plugs and plug wires are new as well. It has not thrown any codes. I did notice that when it is just in park and you press on the accelerator to rev it up it only will rev to 3500 rpm and will shut down like a rev limiter is kicking in and just do a kind of surge thing. My saturn did that too and it was a plugged cat and when I knocked the biskit out of the manifold on that car it stopped. I have already got that ruled out though.
Today I changed my intake manifold gaskets n I hooked everything back n now its bogging out n popping as it's idling, I put new spark plugs but it still the same. What the problem might be?
View 2 RepliesI have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+
I have a 2004 grand prix gt, within the last couple of days, it seems to loose power on acceleration and the motor completely dies at times. After waiting 10 seconds or so it will crank but may die again or just feel like it is loping. The problem is getting worse quickly. I have replaced the fuel filter. This did not stop the problem. I thinking it may be the fuel pump. If it is the fuel pump is there any way to verify this to be sure it is the problem before replacing it?
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 with the 4.2.The troubles started with popping a little through the exhaust ,bogging down and bucking,rough idle and had the two codes together that deal with having bad intake gaskets don't remember the codes offhand.
I also noticed every plug in the truck was wet and black however it didn't appear oil wet.I have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket ,injector o rings,checked injector ohms all were 16.5,new EGR gaskets,all bolts are torqued to specs
Now I have a no run condition, it will crank but not run. I heard a pop in the engine one time. I cranked till the battery went dead.I also noticed as I was calling it a day last night the radiator reservoir was empty. I don't know if somehow I got a hydro lock even though I put new intake gaskets in it or i have some other issue like timing or something. I don't know where to look next....
I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
I have a 2009 Yaris and it started acting like it was stalling out. It won't accelerate. It bogs down. Check engine light is on and when tested got a code of P0353. This means the third coil is bad. I did the check but it seemed to be ok.
View 2 RepliesI'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
View 12 RepliesI have a 2003 pontiac grand am, getting no fuel, pump won't run. I put in a new pump, filter, and changed the relay. Sometimes the pump will kick on and i can start the car, but not today. Took apart the fuse box and could see no visible problems inside.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Grand am when I turn on the a/c it stalls out. I disconnected the compressor and it runs fine when turned on just no air . Could it be the compressor or the electrical?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Grand AM GT 3.4 with 166,000 miles, its hard to explain but will try. When your first taken off the car seems like its holding back, but then once you hit 3,000 rpm's with the gas pedal still pressed the same amount the car takes right off like it has a power band. Same thing regardless happens all the time under 3,000rpm.
Going down the highway at 70 and you start to go up a slight incline, you give it a little gas and you can feel the car having lack of power, then you press a bit more on the gas and it kicks down a gear and goes. Then back in the same situation once back under 3,000 rpm.
The car idles normal, check engine light will come on once in a while, but goes back off before i have a chance to see what code it is. I do notice when the check engine light comes on, you can feel the car lack power for just a second. I just replaced the o2 sensor today thinking it was that.