Grand AM :: 2001 Pontiac SE 3.4l V6 - Just Crank And Not Starting
May 21, 2014
I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am se that was overheating and I found out that it had a blown headgasket and the fuel pump was going out. So I changed the head gasket and fuel pump. After all that I proceeded to start it but all it did was crank and not start. I did Research on the passlock and bypassed it and the security light stopped blinking and went away but all it did was crank and not start. Could the timing be off and cause it not to start? It gets correct ammout of fuel and correct compression? Also the timing chain is loose enough for me to jiggle it.
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I have a 2001 Poniac Grand Am Gt v6 2 door and yesterday I was about to start my car it did made that noise when its going start but it didn't so I notice the SECURITY flashing! i made some research it has to do with the pass lock?
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With summer heating up so is the engine. Temp stays normal at freeway speeds but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic it shoots up. Water pump is two years old. I flushed the radiator and didn't get much gunk out. Both fans are running when the AC is on. If I shut the car off but leave the key on the fans do not run when the car is not. I can't remember if they used to or not.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1
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I just changed my fuel filter and now I am having issues with the idle/accelator. When I get the car going to a speed of 40mph for example, I let off the gas and the speed barely drops. Then when I went down a side street about 20 mph, I let off the gas and the car just kept going. The idle was initally high, but then dropped down to it's normal 800rpm.
The only thing I touched under the hood was releasing the pressure from the fuel pressure regulator before the fuel filter change. I just removed the idle control unit and cleaned it but that didn't work.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT/3.8L
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My 2001 Pontiac Grand Am gt won't start. Turning the key gets no crank. Also there is no power that seems to be in the car at all. Nothing on instrument panel. Battery is good and all Ignition fusses are good.
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2001 Grand Am, 120,000 miles. Struggles to starts, when it does turn over it is only for 1-2 seconds and then cuts out. Even if I get it plenty of gas it still cuts out only it revs and then cuts out. It worked fine on Thursday and sat on the drive until this morning. If it makes a difference, we've had lots of rain recently and the remote keyless entry stopped working too.
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I have a 01 GrandAM 3.4. I have a reoccurring problem with this car. The car will randomly not start, and die while driving. Some days I can drive the car with no problems, and some days it will only have starting problems. These problems are very random. When the car doesn't start it will crank and turn over however the fuel pump will not kick in. You can turn the key on and off several times, and it will fire up. This DOES NOT seem to be a problem with the passlock theft system. The security light has never came on, and you do not have to wait any amount of time for the car to start, you only have to flip the key back and forth several times. The car after running will occasionally die, after the car dies it will usually start back up on the first try. I am very puzzled by this problem not sure if it is the ignition switch, fuel pump, or something in between.
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Recently my malibu would crank but not start. The consensus was fuel pump. I usually use Cole Muffler since they're close but I've had too many issues with them so I decided to take it to Sandone Tire. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a wiring issue. I then received a call telling me that when the fuel pump was tested with their equipment, it had 0 electrical charge, and would not run the car for more than 3 seconds, essentially indicating that there was now a pump AND wiring issue, and the pump had to be replaced.
When the work was completed, about 2 days later, i hiked to Sandone to get my car, and was hit with an almost $900 bill. $300 fuel pump plus labor, $300 labor to run the testing equipment on the electrical system, gas fillup, tow, etc. I was told "Well, we fixed the problem of the car not running, as far as the other issues (small ongoing, and possibly linked electrical problems like lighter/ac, radio, locks, etc.. that may have led to the current problem) we'd have to bring it in and look at that"
I turned on the ignition to listen to the new fuel pump, and it would not stop priming. I read that that it can be 1 of 2 things, the fuel pump relay or the pcm not receiving the signal to turn it off after a few seconds. I tried to get back into the place, but he had locked up for the night. Ok, no big deal. It runs. We'll figure the rest out later.
It's now 1 day later and the vehicle is not starting again. Though this time it "tries" to start, with a little puff of combustion here and there, but will not start. I am going to ask if they put the right octane gas in, and tell them that I had a previous idle air control valve needing to be cleaned issue, but other than that I'm stuck on how to deal with this situation.
Also, if the fuel pump was running fine then "suddenly" crapped out, and the problem is electrical, how the hell does the fuel pump suddenly then need to be replaced because it won't run for more than 3 seconds?
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My father inlaw has a dodge van that is having problems starting. When starting it will crank, but will not fire. We have discovered that if you remove the 20 amp Oxygen Sensor relay, under the hood, and jump it directly to the battery, while starting if will start. The fuse appears to be good. Can the O2 sensor relay prevent the van from starting, but run after initially bypassing after starting? What it might be?
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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I drive a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4L. My truck will crank but not start, i am getting complete spark, and have ran a full fuel pressure procedure, and am getting complete fuel pressure, there is no water in my gas, everything checks out how it should. I ran a test on my cluster and it showed a code that said i am not getting connection to computer to start. I removed the cluster and repaired all loose wires properly, and it still wont start! I have had many people look at it and they said it could still be a bad cluster.
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Pretty soon this thing's gonna have ALL new parts and STILL running rough! The Jeep has about 40K on a Jasper motor, 175K on everything else. I was experiencing starting issues (crank for 20-30 seconds), and noticed a P0171 code on my odometer (O2 sensor?) so off to my mechanic. He replaced two O2 sensors, no change. New code read MAP sensor, replaced, no change.
Finally, changed Fuel Pump in tank (Fuel filter was changed 2 months ago), still no change. I tried starting it tonight by turning the key 5-10 sec. to prime gas, started but still rough at idle. Runs strong above idle 1500-2000RPM. Mechanic can't check fuel pressure at rails? for some reason. My next thoughts were spark plugs and vacuum lines...
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It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
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I have a 2001 E-350 w/7.3. When I start the truck first thing or when engine is cooled down it starts fine. I checked the high pressure pump pressure and it is 500 - 600 psi start up great. But when engine warms and try to start it it has long crank before starting. I checked pressure and it is between 425 to0 450 and takes awhile for it to get to 500 or better. Is this a cause of the high pressure oil pump ? I changed the oil and still does same thing. Also I noticed that after engine is hot and I try to start it, while cranking the engine the oil gauge does not move. I don't know if it supposed to when you crank it or not. I thought on other 7.3's I've worked on that the gauge builds up pressure....
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I have a 1996 Pontiac grand am gt. It started over heat and bog down. I put more dex-cool in it but its not cooling down. After doing so, I stopped, got out and checked underneath. It was pouring fast. I checked all hoes to and from the reservoir...all good. I was told it could be the lower intake manifold gasket...true/false...
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am, it has a V6. I live in AZ, so right now its like 110 outside and my ac will work fine when i am driving but when i stop at a stoplight it starts blowing hot but when I start driving again it takes about a minute and then it will blow cold again and it does this same thing at every stoplight, but if the car is just idling in my yard with the ac on it blows cold it doesn't do this, I thought maybe it was low on freon and bought a can of ac pro with a gauge and when i checked the pressure it went into the red so it says not to add any, and contact a mechanic. But what may be wrong with it first, I replaced the ac compressor 2 years ago. A couple of days ago I replaced all the radiator hoses and the radiator and the coolant tank and of course added the right amount of dexcool. The car is not getting hot, the problem is just with the ac ,
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I have no clue why my 2002 Pontiac Grand Am SE uses a lot of fuel. I Don't drive often, perhaps twice per week, sometimes not at all.
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When I turn the car off the key only goes to acc. If I wait a few minutes I can hear a clicking sound coming from the steering column I think. Then I can turn it off all the way.Whats causing this? and how do i fix it. My car is a pontiac Grand Prix 2002.
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We have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am 2.4L. Recently it has begun to shut off while it is being driven. We will have to pull over and wait X amount of time before it will restart. An interesting addition to this is that it only happens when the weather is hot. If it is a cold or wet day, this will not happen and the car will run perfectly.
We have tried several things on this car to try to fix this problem. We have replaced Computer
Fuel pump
CPS or Hall sensor
Water pump
Control module
Cam sensor
Both coils
Throttle Sensor
Thermostat
New Radiator
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I have a 2000 pontiac grand am two door it has a 3.4 v6 it cranks but no fuel to motor i replaced the fuel pump fuel filter and the electric computer in it an still won't start.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Gran Am GT 3.4 and i just noticed yesterday when i start my car now it sounds like i have one lifter that is fairly loud, it goes away about 10 minutes after its running. It did it for the first time when we were at the inlaws yesterday, after a few hours of sitting i went out to warm the car up and heard it. Then in the evening after sitting for a few hours i went out to warm it up and did it again. is it possible to be dirty and need something ran though the engine like seafoam?
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