Grand AM :: 2000 SE Shutting Off While Driving And Not Starting
Oct 28, 2015
So we've been having trouble with the car which is a 2000 Grand Am SE 2.4ltr. This all started a month ago. One day the car wouldn't start. I bought a new battery (old one was 5 years old time for a new one) and started and ran just fine for the first day. The next day the car did not start. After having my brother in law check it out, he suggested we get a new fuel pump relay so I went out and bought it. It fixed the problem and the car was starting and running again. A few days later while my brother and I where driving down south, the car shut off while driving. It started happening more and more to the point were it happened everyday.
When the car shuts off, all the lights stay on and a noise comes from the dashboard. The noise sounds electrical. The car usually would start after 30 minutes to an hour. Last night it shut off on me and it didn't start after 2 hours of sitting on the side of the road. It doesn't happen at highway speeds, only really while driving locally. Now the car is still not starting and I've no clue as to what could be the problem. I've read that it can be a number of things. From the fuel pump, dirty fuel filter, ecu, ignition coil, etc.
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2000 Grand Marquis transmission shutters when driving. It does it sporadically when about 50 mph or above. I read in a filter catalog in a parts store that a fluid change to a specific fluid would fix this problem as it was common in Crown Vic, Grand Marqs and Lincolns. I asked a couple of shops/mechanics and they had never heard this and was reluctant to change fuild saying that it may do more harm than good. Any recommendations?
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Having an intermittent problem when starting the car.
The car quickly shutting off right after starting while still in Park.
It does not do it all the time, but about every 3rd of 4th start attempt it will do this. If I step on the accelerator, I can avoid the car from shutting off.
The car has 62k miles and spark plugs were replaced at 50k.
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
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My 2000 Ford Explorer O/D off light starts flashing after driving it after 3-8 miles from starting out. After shutting it off, it resets itself. It seems to stick between 2nd and 3rd (automatic trans) because I get a surge on my RPMs. I took it to two places, spent $200.00 and the problem remains. The tranny shop actually changed a "range sensor" and thought it was fixed. Nope - O/D off started flashing before I even got back home. I've been looking on the internet and it seems that alot of explorer owners have been having the same types of problems. The shops I have talked to have no idea other than rebuild my transmission. It only has 46,000 miles on it! It seems to me that the overdrive is not kicking in when needed and the light comes on.
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This is my dad's car.... Today it began taking a while to start. It will turn over, just doesn't start. If you crank on it a while it will eventually start then runs perfectly fine. The problem occurs both cold and hot. I tried cycling the key 5 times, each time until you hear the fuel pump shut off then cycle again... it's starts just fine doing that. If you shut it off then try to restart, it'll just sit there and crank until you cycle the key a few times. There's no check engine light or OBD codes.
The fuel pump only runs for a second or two when you flip on the key, which tells me it's not having a problem coming up to pressure... and I'd imagine if I had a fuel pressure issue, it wouldn't be running smoothly and I'd have some hesitation, right?
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I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am se that was overheating and I found out that it had a blown headgasket and the fuel pump was going out. So I changed the head gasket and fuel pump. After all that I proceeded to start it but all it did was crank and not start. I did Research on the passlock and bypassed it and the security light stopped blinking and went away but all it did was crank and not start. Could the timing be off and cause it not to start? It gets correct ammout of fuel and correct compression? Also the timing chain is loose enough for me to jiggle it.
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Having issues with there Grand AM over heating? I've got a 99 Grand AM SE , & it's over heating. I cannot drive it more then 5 minutes without it starting to over heat. I'm getting no where fast with this vehicle.
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My GA has been sluggishly starting for the last 3 days, usually the first start of the morning then fine the rest of the day. Today is the first day that it has done it during the day. I stopped at Advance Auto on way home and they ran a test on it. I'm attaching the results of it to get your feedback on the possibilities. The battery was replaced in March 2010, the alternator in November 2010.
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I have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
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So my SE was shutting off while driving and after numerous visits to the dealer more like 17 times in a matter of 8 months or so I decided to sue them.
Last day at the dealer surrendering the vehicle in photo.
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So my SE was shutting off while driving and after numerous visits to the dealer more like 17 times in a matter of 8 months or so I decided to sue them.
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My 2002 GT 3.8 with 157,000mi has recently and randomly been losing total electrical power after starting the engine. Engine fires like a champ then after 2-3 seconds will completely die- no engine, no lights, no radio, no locks, nada. The key will be stuck in the ignition and can remove it after playing with it. After a time that I haven't been able to determine, electrical power will be restored after I reinsert the key. Sometimes she will stay running after restarting: sometimes not. But she never hesitates to start.
After the first occurrence she ran fine for 3 days but did notice the driver information center would flicker. It never went completely dark, but go from bright to dim- which has previously never happened.
The car has been parked outside and it has been raining quite a bit- I did notice a few times there has been water on the passenger side floor. I had this problem years ago and it was supposed to have been fixed at the shop.
Also of note: I've had the known GP ignition lock issue where the key will not release for the past 3 years. Just been using a pen to manually release the lock from the bottom of the steering column. Don't think it's a battery problem as it is less than 2 months old.
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Have a problem with headlights shutting off while ur driving? Recently my headlights would only turn either the R or L side on, and then turn right off.....
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I have the above mentioned vehicle and have had 5 incidents of the vehicle shutting down on me while I am driving. A warning light (triangle with !) come on, and a message that says "Stop Safely Now", at which point the car shuts down and runs only on electric battery power for a short period of time to allow you to pull over. I have figured out that it only happens when it is either raining outside, or I have just gotten a car wash with undercarriage spray down.
I have had the throttle body replaced as well as the master air flow cleaned out, neither of which have fixed the issue. This is becoming a safety issue, since it has happened twice now on the highway going around 65 mph.
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Our Ranger, 2002, 4 cyl. 2.3 5 speed is shutting down while driving. This has happened twice very recently. Both times on interstate at highway speed. First it loses power then completely shuts down. After stopping, turning key "off" it restarts and runs fine. It does take a longer time to crank before starting.
It is not throwing any codes and the CE is not coming on. I suspect the fuel pump is shutting down. Seems like fuel pressure loss is reason for loss of power? Then extended cranking to restart is the initial build up? What else could it be? If not the pump itself, is there something that would take away power from the pump then get reset?
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Three times recently my 2008 Touring Edition Prius has experienced a shutdown of the engine while driving. Each time I was able to coast and/or use battery power to get to a safe location. The “Triangle-of-Death” and the Check Engine Light was illuminated on the dashboard. Since my car is equipped with a scangauge, I was able to see the codes and clear them on the spot. After restarting the car, it showed no adverse reaction to shutting down and all was seemingly well until the next event. The codes listed below all seem to be communication lapses.
My question is; where do I start in my pursuit to diagnose and repair?
7/15/14 - 98,889 miles U0293 and U0100
7/23/14 - 99,414 miles U0293 and U0100
8/21/14 - 101,065 miles U0100 and U0000
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I'm having a problem with the car just shutting off while I'm driving. The computer says its the crank sensor. I replaced it and it got worse would not start. Put old one back same results. Put new one in and it starts and runs but still stalls while I'm driving. Computer now says crank sensor circuit. Not sure if it is another bad sensor or short somewhere.
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Every 3 or 4 days my 2000 Camry 4Cyl Std Tranny keeps blowing out the 30A Buss Fuse in the under hood fuse box. What this fuse runs and what could be the problem. I don't think my Fan Motors are running could this cause the Fuse to pop.
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Instrument panel on Altima shuts down or freezes up erratically? There is no conditions I have found when this happens consistently. Typically after leaving the car overnight in the drive next time around everything works properly. I have checked fuses in the car and under the hood. What causes this?
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After starting the car and driving for about 10-15 minutes a few days ago I came to a stop in a parking lot and the car shut off and would not re-start for about 5 minutes. The car started again so I shrugged it off and drove on. About 10 minutes down the road again the oil lamp started to flash and the STOP warning came up. I unfortunately was on a one lane construction zone so I had to limp for a minute to clear it so I could pull over. The car would switch from responding/non-responding to the gas pedal. Finally pulled it off to the side got it towed home and to the mechanic. I haven't heard any news yet but I'm trying to gather some info.
Just a few things I've read about looking into :
-ECT (Engine coolant temperature sensor) ...
-Oil pump ...
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