Grand AM :: 1999 GA - Possible Clogged Cat Converter
Jun 13, 2006
I have a 1999 GA GT 3.4L with 70,000 miles on it and about 2 months ago I started to notice that the temp gauge was reading higher then it used to and when this happened the tranny would want to slip a little bit on me in Drive (but only when I would change from park to Drive or Reverse to Drive). I now am starting to notice that the engine wants to continue to heat up even after I turn the car off and acceleration seems down a little, all of this is making me think and has been suggested to me that my Cat Converter could be clogged up, not letting exhaust gasses escape as much as they need to.
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I own a 2000 E 250 Econoline van with 170,000 miles. I've been encountering loss of power on acceleration for months. Terrible gas mileage (8-10 mpg) and just recently, I get that rotten egg smell when I gun it and and travel above 65/70. I can feel heat from under the van when i step out as well. I've been blowing individual coil packs every other month after a long drive with a lot of inclines. It all points to a clogged catalytic converter. This van has 3. A front left and right by the manifolds, and a large one before the muffler. My question is, what causes them to go bad? I want to fix the cause before spend the money on new cats. Ive heard a rich fuel mixture could do it. Are there sensors that need to be changed?
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That Car Grand AM 2000 2.4L SE
The current problem with the car is that it is not accelerating fast, for example i would push the petal to the metal and only go 25 mph and my RPM would be 3000-4000. Initial my brother and cousin though it was the Catalytic converter because it was getting hot but that has recently been change along with the fuel filter and spark plugs. but the catalytic converter is still gets red hot so i forbid myself from driving it till i fix what every causing the slow acceleration and the temperature of the Cata when i took the error code think P0300 random misfire to the local Autozone they printed me a long list of things that could be a issue my question is what is the likely culprit so i can fix those 1st before shelling out cash to rebuild a engine. may just have to get rid of it at that point. so i guess what am asking is a list maybe top 10 so i can fix them one by one as my money comes in.
Before the accelerating issue the car would randomly stop when i slowed down or stooped that when i replace the spark plugs.
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Now for the 2nd time my ebpv is clogged with carbon. Is there Any way to keep it clean or am I going to have to clean it every 2k miles? A
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I have a 1999 Nissan Frontier, 4cy, 5speed. About a week ago, it began stumbling sporadically so my first thought was that maybe a spark plug had fouled. I changed the spark plugs, and the problem persisted. At this point, I begin thinking maybe it's a fuel issue. I went to Advance and bought Lucas Oil fuel system treatment and added it to the 1/2 tank of gas I had at the time. Going home from Advance it ran great. No stumbling. However, it started again the next day. I ran out that 1/2 tank of fuel and filled up again and it is still doing the same thing. It idles a little rough, and stumbles while going up through the RPM range between shifts. Once I get up to highway speed in 5th gear, it seems to do okay. Should I add more fuel injector cleaner or maybe SeaFoam? Could it possibly be a clogged fuel filter?
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From diagnosis we are pretty sure we have clogged fuel pick ups in the tank of my 99 7.3 Dually. So in I go to clean and repair or replace depending on what it looks like once we get in there.
We have most of the fuel out of the tank, pumped out just over 30 gallons.
I don't have a lift so this is being done on the ground, any easier way ? The bed bolts look pretty rusty and funky but we have been spraying them down with Kroil, the magic elixir, for a couple days to see if that will ease the removal of the fasteners.
Take the Bed Off and work with the tank in the frame or drop the tank out and work away from the truck ?
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My radiator has been leaking very little for some time and it is stock after 250k so im sure it is plugged....my engine has been running 202 .... My tranny only goes over 200 while towing...otherwise if is under 190
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Mine was clogged again, and I check it every month.
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I'm in having emission problems with my 2010 F250 lariat 6.4 diesel truck my DPF filter keeps getting clogged up engine just shut off on me then I sent it to get cleaned professionally got it installed drive it for 20 miles and my pick up shut off on me and left me stranded and I can't seem to pass inspection...
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2008 6.4L .... My ECT 191-197 and EOT 220-230 high side on interstate no load on truck air temp 70 degrees. Is this a sign thermostat failing. Is there a certain temp to determine if your cooler is fully clogged or just partially clogged? I plan on doing a flush with restore then restore plus. Is there any point in using restore with temps this high. Or do I have to break down and buy the half kit to bypass OEM oil cooler? I need this fixed ASAP hauling the RZR to arkansas in a week. I know ill mess something up if i try to pull a load with those temps.
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Ive got a 99 F250 (5.4 if that matters), after a good long rain like the one we had this weekend, when I drive the truck I get water splashed on the passenger floorboard. It hold enough water that if I rock the truck side to side I can hear it sloshing. I am wondering if there is a common drain for these things that gets clogged. When my a/c runs I get a nice puddle under the truck so it looks like that is not clogged up, and I didn't know if they were the same drain or not.
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My new truck is running really loud. I got under it and noticed that the catalytic converter is not connected to the tailpipe. What would I need in order to repair it? Is this a common issue with this truck? If I need clamps, what is the proper size, also the size of the proper tailpipe if it's too rusted out.
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99 grand am,v-6 SE-2.my car has recently started to stall at times. Mostly in the afternoon when it is hotter. Runs for about 20 min. and then looses power and stalls. Will not restart unless I turn the key off and back on. Sometimes I have to do this about 10 times before it stays running. Each time I turn it back on the fuel pump pumps up within seconds. Stalls at idle and at part throttle. When it starts to stall you can here it sucking air big time. When it runs it runs great.there are no codes. Once it starts to stall it never recovers, just takes longer sometimes.
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Starts rough but clears up after about a minute, I'm assuming the IAC is sticking. Whats the proper procedure for disconnecting and removing the cleaning and re-installing?
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I have a 99 Grand Am GT 3400. Just starting doing this, when you start the engine, it starts surging rhythmically as if you are pushing on the accelerator and letting off. When I put it in gear, I have to have the brake firmly pushed down as it lurches forward severely. I haven't driven it far, but it seems once you get going it runs fine.
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ill be replacing my muffler here soon, its rusted out blows smoke out all the rust holes, and so on. gonna replace with a nice flo master. Question is, when is it time to replace the catalytic converter? 15 years old and 93000 miles, it still seems like its in good shape, but could it be getting clogged? just from the sounds of the exhaust the past few months, it almost sounds like the truck is somewhat congested. The power from the engine is kinda week, but that's the engine itself. I have no real problems getting up to speed. my hesitation issues from before turned out to be water in the gas tank. Figured since im down there does it make sense just to bite the bullet and throw a new catalytic converter on?
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Installing engine after complete rebuild. The starter will turn it over and break in oil was added. How can I verify oil is flowing when I turn it over (with no fuel or spark) to avoid a dry start?
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How do i program my keyless entry remote to my 99 grand am?!?
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So my transmission drove perfectly fine I just wanted to put an upgraded torque converter in especially after driving a customers' truck with a low stall converter. I know their not like for racing or anything but it's a work Truck with some mods to the motor nothing crazy. So I went ahead and bought a low stall triple disk converter and I drove around the block fine and went to go on the freeway and got into fourth but lost it as I hit 75 (was not flooring by any means and had it in the stock tune) now it will not go past second gear. Once it did this the o/d off light started to flash and I decided to do a stall test.went to 1800 in a Second. Suppose to stall around 1200-1300.
2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke dp chip stage 1 camshaft and 180/100 injectors coming at some point but stock for now
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1999 7.3/4r100 4wd with the rattling torque converter.
I bought this truck 10-11 years ago to use as a tow rig for my landscaping company. It has been a great problem free truck, I have done brakes a few times, a water pump, ball joints but no issues with motor/drivetrain.
I don't know the history of the trans before I purchased. Ford didn't have history of it being replaced and even now it still has all the labeling on the case. I would have thought it would have been washed off in a rebuild. Again I don't know. When I bought the truck it shifted nice and crisp, having owned trucks before it made me think it had been rebuilt but this was my first and only 4r100. Other trucks are ZF6 manuals.
Anyway 10 years and 100,000 miles later it still shifts very crisp and fluid, has been changed a couple times, is nice and cherry red. I added a 6.0 cooler, temp gauge and filter. Never see the temp rise and haven't seen much in the filter.
About 25,000 miles ago the TC started to rattle, a known 99 problem. I figured surely the trans would go and I would do a rebuilt from Ford. It keeps going though so being a work truck I have kept running it.
A couple weeks ago the starter just spun and wouldn't engage. I pulled the inspection cover and noticed some missing teeth on flex plate. Got it to start my turning crank bolt a bit to good teeth and the starter caught. Now we are carrying a breaker bar and socket. It has happened a few more times so I need to replace flex plate.
Question is, since I need to pull trans to replace flexplate, should I replace TC (I would like to get rid of the noise)? Some people have said I will be replacing trans in a couple months if I mess with it. They say just spend $3000 on a rebuilt now with a converter. Not trying to be cheap but hate to just dump this trans that is still working great and has served me well.
I have replaced many transmission and done clutches in many trucks so I am familiar with the steps of removal and installation, just stuck on what I should do.
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I have a '99 F150 w/ the 5.4 and 4R70W, with 226K miles. I am experiencing what I believe is a TC shudder after the tranny shifts into OD between approximately 40-50mph. This sounds like a pretty common problem with this particular tranny, but some of what I've read describes the shudder as feeling akin to driving over rumblestrips, but what I'm experiencing is a very sharp, bucking. Is this how the TC shudder feels, or am I actually dealing with a misfire. Btw, I did completely change the tranny fluid with Mercon V, and added a friction modifier, but no change. I also read that the TC unlocks when the brake lights come on, so I tried lightly hitting the brakes when the bucking was occuring, but it continued.
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