Grand AM :: 1996 - Theft System Light Comes On And Then Car Stalls After Startup
Dec 29, 2006
When you start the car the theft system light comes on and then the car stalls. This has been a continuous problem for about two years. I can't find any pattern to when it does and does not start. Sometimes it will start again the next try, sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes I have it towed to the pontiac dealer after a week of not starting. Recently I have had the cluster sent out twice to check for problems, a new lock cylinder, and the bmc replaced. (about $1,150 total) This was done by a certified pontiac garage and the problem is still not fixed so I dropped it off again last night. Any suggestions? Also is there a point where I should get reimbursed for having parts replaced that were not broken? I have to believe that if the problem is still happening then there was nothing wrong with the lock cylinder or the bcm.
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Our Grand Am runs well when it decides to start! But occasionally when the key is turned all the way on, the starter may take a few minutes to engage, or not at all. Usually it just starts right up, but not every time, so it is not reliable. The key lock cylinder has been replaced.
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L
Problem "Stalls at idle and at hwy speed" sometimes starts right up and sometime will not start. Sometimes it will lose acceleration but engine will still be running and you can punch the gas and it will go again.
It has been in the shop for most of the last 2 months. Driven in 3 times and hauled in twice.
Low mileage 70,000 - has been great until now - serviced regularly.
Did get new fuel pump only about 10,000 miles ago do to starting problem but in that case it just did not start.
Independent shop replaced distributor cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter. No codes and couldn't duplicate problem.
Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump (they said wiring problem), O2 sensor, engine module no help, they asked us to pick up car because it ran fine. It stalled within 2 miles of shop.
We replaced gas cap just in case.
Limped back to shop to replace crank sensor as it was suggested several places. Ran fine for about 45 minutes then back to old tricks. Relays have been checked. Still at shop trying to trace problem. At least nobody is saying they can't duplicate problem as it now stalls all the time.
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My 2004 grand prix gt2 theft deterrent service light is on. So far I have no problems with the car starting or runiing at this point.
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We have an older Camry (1996 V6) with 159K miles on it that we are going to use for my gf's daughter's first car. It sat unused for a while and her father is giving her the car. The issue is that when you initially start it you have to keep the foot on the gas or it will stall. It does a bit better when it warms up but it can still stall if you let off the gas quickly. The plug wires look quite new so I expect the plugs are new as well (will confirm with her dad). I pulled the throttle body and it doesn't seem to be very dirty but I will clean it anyway and change the air filter. What I did notice is when I pulled the vacuum line (I'm guessing that's what it is, I am not mechanic) it was split longitudinally through the clamp. I am going to replace the hose but am wondering if the throttle intake is fairly clean if this could be the cause of the rough idle. I've watched a video on-line that shows how to clean the throttle body.
The battery looks fairly new but I don't have my voltage meter to test it. I have cleaned all the connections because I have heard that a weak battery or bad connection can also affect the way the engine runs. This Camry doesn't have a voltage meter, only a dummy light. The light doesn't come on so I'm thinking we don't have a problem with not getting enough power to the computer.
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2003 Taurus, 3.0 duratec flex, 30K. While driving at various speeds the theft light flashes for a split second and the car starts to stall before resuming normal operation on its own. The rpms drop off, and power is lost for a split second. This is getting more frequent and happened five times during a 30 mile drive. The original Ford key is being used. My scan tool reveals no codes. I understand that there may be anti-theft codes that my scanner cannot read.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu LS. Occasionally, my theft system light will come on when I start my car. I usually have to wait 10 minutes until it deactivates. I don't understand why it does this!
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2004 chevy malibu classic... My blinkers make weird sounds and does not work half the time unless i hit the hazard lights. problem two theft system light comes on and stays on. problem three shut off car to re-start i think i can i think i can then start no problem after words. fourth problem the seat belt buzzer wont stop have to play with key in ignition.
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On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
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Just found out I have a problem with my evap system (97 Grand Prix GTP). My SES light comes on intermittently. Not sure what the number of the code is, but my mechanic said it was because the vacuum was too strong (not a leak). He said could be from a kink or clogged hose. What this could be? Are the hoses and canister easily accessible for me to check?
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I have a 94 grand am 2.3 quad ohc 8th number in vin is 5 the car run fine in any gear except reverse. Soon as its put in reverse the car stalls right out.
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I have a 1996 Pontiac grand am gt. It started over heat and bog down. I put more dex-cool in it but its not cooling down. After doing so, I stopped, got out and checked underneath. It was pouring fast. I checked all hoes to and from the reservoir...all good. I was told it could be the lower intake manifold gasket...true/false...
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My 2008 Ford F-350 doesn't make a sound when I try to start it. The battery is good. The steering does not lock with the key out. Is it something to do with the anti-theft system?
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My son had the car and put the window down and it would not go back up. Had to drive 13 miles in below zero temperatures to get home. After searching online and doing some checking on the vehicle we found that the Driver's PW switch was dead. Went and got a used switch and replaced it and the window works find. SO, the husband goes to start it and the battery is dead so he put a charger on it and it did start but it stalls right away. It will stay running if you have your foot on the gas but as soon as you let off it stalls. If it idles at all before it dies it it does so erratically.
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My grand am has a gnarly idle issue. It stalls to turn on and once on it has a very rough idle. When I put the car into drive it stales then just turns off. Drained the heck out of my battery so I was thinking it was an alternator issue but I did a quick test and my alternator seems to be working fine. I did manage to drive my car but once in motion, gears wouldn't shift which has me leading to thinking it can be a transmission issue.
Specs:
2000 grand am
3.4L V6 SE model
automatic
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I had the Steering Column Module and the CCM done at the dealer last week. That being said would that have anything to do with the fact that I can't arm my antil theft system? All the door lock except for the rear drivers side door. When I hit the lock button on the remote I don't get any sort of audible signal. The horn doesn't beep and the lights don't flash. When i use the remote to unlock the doors, the lights do flash to signal that the doors are unlocked.
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I placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T and have had a check engine light for the past month or so. I was finally able to get it to one of my local mechanics who specializes in german made cars. He showed me where one of my vacuum lines had split open, then proceeded to splice the line with a t-fitting and a new length of hose and then reset the check engine light.
Well, the engine light has stayed off, but now when I start the car, it almost stalls out right after startup, then proceeds to idle and run fine. The mechanic thinks that since the car was running for so long with that vacuum leak that the ECU needs to to "reset" itself to the different pressure.
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So I'm nearing my wits end. I have an '11 GTI DSG, CCTA, second owner. The problem has been happening as soon as I bought it, when it was only 6 months old.
When the engine is not fully warm, but warm-ish, the engine doesn't reliably start on the first try. I have KESSY, so I push the start button and hold it. When I release it (not too soon, mind you) the engine will idle very rough. The tach will bounce between 200 and 700 rpm. Sometimes the engine will die completely. Other times, the idle will stabilize at the right engine speed after a few seconds of roughness.
It seems like this happens most often when the car has been parked for 1 to 3 hours. However, I have had it happen very rarely when cold as well as minutes after parking. But definitely it seems to happen mostly when it has been allowed to cool slightly for 1-3 hours.
I've got youtube videos. I'll post links. I've contacted VWOA. I have a case. They tested the fuel system and believe everything is okay. They told me they suspected bad gas. I religiously used Shell 93. So they, under warranty, flushed the fuel tank. Okay, so I switched to Chevron 93. Well, the problem still happens!!! As far as I know, no parts have been replaced yet.
My car is at the dealership now, they called me today and want to give up. This would be the 5th time I've taken it in for this problem.
One thing I forgot to mention. When the engine has just started and is idling roughly, if I stab the gas pedal a little, it will bring up the revs to 2-3000rpm and 90% of the time the engine will then settle into a smooth idle immediately after the revs drop. It's almost as if the mixture is so rich that it has got the plugs wet (if this were carbureted, that'd be the first thing I would suspect)
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My son's 97 GA with 3.1 has been throwing trouble code of 0420 and my OTC monitor say it is a "TWC System Low Efficiency". What a TWC is or what or where to start checking.
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I have recently purchased a 2012 facelift Tiguan diesel and it has a running fault. When starting the engine, 50% of the time it starts fine, 50% of the time it starts with a "misfire" and sputters for a short while (5-6 seconds) then stalls. If you Rev it a bit while it is sputtering then it clears the sputter and doesn't stall. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Once it's running fine then the misfire never returns until you shut off the engine and then try to restart. The start stop also fails to cut in and I'm wondering if this could be linked. It had a new battery and alternator fitted a few months ago but a non start stop battery was fitted. This has now been changed for the correct battery but both problems still persist.
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