I have a 95 Pontiac grand am with a 98 motor. Everything is factory, no modifications. I just recently starting having an issue with the car attempting to stall out while driving over bumps and on some hard turns as well. Haven't replaced anything yet but would like to know what is causing this? I have shook wires, checked for broken ones and found nothing.
View 1 RepliesThe grand prix is stalling at different times when driving, I cleaned mass air flow sensor. still has same issue, car stalls and have to put in neutral and start while driving.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am 2.4L. Recently it has begun to shut off while it is being driven. We will have to pull over and wait X amount of time before it will restart. An interesting addition to this is that it only happens when the weather is hot. If it is a cold or wet day, this will not happen and the car will run perfectly.
We have tried several things on this car to try to fix this problem. We have replaced Computer
Fuel pump
CPS or Hall sensor
Water pump
Control module
Cam sensor
Both coils
Throttle Sensor
Thermostat
New Radiator
We have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
When I hit the brakes hard like seating the brakes the Aero would stall....
View 12 RepliesSo my car keeps just dying while i'm driving..my car was running just fine until i got gas one morning and then started to sputter while i was driving and didn't want to accelerate very well...read a multiple misfire code when my check engine light was on..changed the coil packs and now isn't reading anything but now it takes a lot of cranks to get the car to start and while i am going down the road it will just die...normal engine dying lights will come on the dash when it dies..have changed the fuel filter..checked the catalytic convertor...checked plugs and wires..once in a while i do get a funny gas smell on the outside of my car but it's not leaking anywhere..checked the battery and still does it with a new battery..changed the fuel pump about 3 years ago..
View 7 RepliesYesterday this thing died on me twice. 30mph to 0 in nothing flat. No problems with stalling before yesterday. It's at the shop now, but they tell me they aren't finding anything and probably won't if they can't get it to die on them too. It had only been driven for about 5 minutes before each occurrence, and each time I had just topped a small hill(if that matters). The second time, it did slightly hesitate to restart and seems to me there was some light smoke from the tailend.
View 19 RepliesMy daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
My daughter drives a 1996 sunfire 2.2. car started stalling while driving about a year ago. No apparent pattern, would go weeks even months in between. Last summer it became more frequent and noticed it would only do it when engine was warm. After stalling it will restart after what seems to be a cooling down period. Now it does it at idle as well. (Replaced fuel pump and filter) would like a good guess before I start putting money into it.
View 4 RepliesMy 1995 Isuzu Rodeo began stalling when braked/stopped. The car would continue running only if the gas pedal was lightly pushed, keeping the flow going. I treated it with Seafoam and water remover and the problem went away for week. Now it will stall, then refuse to start for a period of time. When attempting to start the Rodeo a loud 'strangled' sound is sometimes heard, then nothing. Try again a few minutes later and the car starts and the ride home over the next mile is smooth. My untrained guess points to a bad starter. I also believe there were two problems at the same time, one being junk in the fuel line, perhaps a loose battery connection as a contributor, then a starter problem.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving over bumps my front end makes horrible rattling sounds. The car also bounces somewhat wildly when i push down while it's parked. I figure its time to replace the suspension as it's got 125k miles on it. My question is exactly what parts do i need to buy? I am going to do both the front and back. I see names of parts thrown around all over. bushings, struts, springs, bearings etc... so what parts do i need to buy?
1997 pontiac sunfire 2.4L coupe
I have a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix se. I've noticed that I've been getting pretty bad gas mileage lately, and after driving my car for like 15 min, the engine light will come on, and my engine/transmission will shutter like its going over a road trip while its either downshifting or upshifting into 1st gear it seems. Then once I turn my car off, if I turn it back on the engine light will be gone (until I drive it for 10 minutes or so again), but it will still have the shutter. The fluids are full. The car has a little over 200,000 miles. It is the 4 speed auto tranny, 3.1 L v6. We had a newer engine put in about 50,000 miles ago. The tranny fluid looks good, and the oil looks OK, needs a change in about 400 miles. Been up to date on maintenance as far as tune ups, and fluid changes.
View 4 RepliesMy car is idling high while driving and when coming to a stop. I do not have a rpm meter so i don't know what my rpms are reading. What could be the problem?
View 1 Repliesi have a 2000 grand am with a 3400 engine and stock trans, i did a full engine swap in the car a few months ago for a friend and it was running fine, the engine and trans came out of an 04 grand am. I bought the car for a second vehicle for my every day driver after he changed the (tfp) sensor, and it shifts fine, but it is still showing a P1810 code, and shifts hard after driving it for a while but only when putting it in gear. What it can be?
View 1 RepliesMy car has been stalling out while at stop lights and while driving as well as spuddering and hesitating . i brought it in to the shop twice and both times they said it ran fine . they ran the code and gave me a new oxygen sensor and it still stalled. i brought it to autozone today and they ran the code and camshaft position sensor came up. so i put a new one in and it still is stalling and hesitating to drive. also smells really bad when it kick in. What could be wrong . short circuit or wiring trouble maybe? fuel pump ? crankshaft? electrical problem? spark plugs? cant get a straight answer.
View 8 RepliesMy car is a 1995 Buick regal gran sport with only 64,000 miles. It has been cutting of for 2 years now. It usually cuts off when we slow down. The RPM's will suddenly drop to zero. We have taken it to 3 different mechanics over the past 2 years and have put in thousands of dollars to fix it (more that it is worth). We always just throw it in neutral and it start back up and keep driving. We were sick of paying to get it NOT fixed so we decided throwing it in neutral is ok. Well now some days it won't start. It turns over but won't fire. Some days it will start. We took it in and got it "fixed" again, but it is still doing the same thing (some days it starts, some not). It still also has the problem of cutting off while we are driving too.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
View 11 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
I have a 1996 Pontiac grand am gt. It started over heat and bog down. I put more dex-cool in it but its not cooling down. After doing so, I stopped, got out and checked underneath. It was pouring fast. I checked all hoes to and from the reservoir...all good. I was told it could be the lower intake manifold gasket...true/false...
View 1 RepliesBack in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am, it has a V6. I live in AZ, so right now its like 110 outside and my ac will work fine when i am driving but when i stop at a stoplight it starts blowing hot but when I start driving again it takes about a minute and then it will blow cold again and it does this same thing at every stoplight, but if the car is just idling in my yard with the ac on it blows cold it doesn't do this, I thought maybe it was low on freon and bought a can of ac pro with a gauge and when i checked the pressure it went into the red so it says not to add any, and contact a mechanic. But what may be wrong with it first, I replaced the ac compressor 2 years ago. A couple of days ago I replaced all the radiator hoses and the radiator and the coolant tank and of course added the right amount of dexcool. The car is not getting hot, the problem is just with the ac ,
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