1995 2.3L has boggy performance. Engine shakes. Exhaust smells of gas. Barely moves. Pulled spark plugs two of them were blackened other two clean. Replaced fuel filter. Changed ICM. Noted small hairline crack on coil pack housing. Still have boggy performance. No CEL light on. No gas coming out of vacuum line from rail regulator. Engine will thump periodically when accelerated.
View 13 Replies1995 Lumina LS 3.1L w/ ~185K mi
A few weeks back, the amber ABS light would periodically illuminate and then became more frequent until it was On every time I used the car. The light only comes on after driving the car forward ~10-20ft. Recently in the past few days, the red brake light also started coming on at the exact same time as the amber ABS light. I can start up the car and idle, backup, and then as soon as I drive forward 10-20ft., both lights simultaneously illuminate, along with the sound of something that is engaging/closing/switching etc. coming from the front driver's side, maybe where the brake module is located. The sound coincides with the illumination of the lights. There is also absolutely no noticeable difference in braking.
I just changed the oil a couple days ago and the fluid level was good and appears to have not moved at all since I flushed the lines ~2.5yrs. ago. I cannot recall if I returned the pistons to the home position back then, but either way I was able to bleed all 4 lines.
What may be causing both lights to illuminate together when the car moves forward in addition to coinciding with a sort of clunking/engaging noise coming from the front driver's side?
If I have to replace the EBCM, then do I need a scan tool?
I already called Module Master and they do not rebuild any GM EBCMs built before 1999. Looks like Rock Auto has some though.
1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
Sometimes get a no-start on my car, turn key, nothing have dash lights and headlights, but they do not dim when i turn key, car will also not start in neutral, Had lock cylinder with vats wires replaced, and neutral safety switch was cleaned and adjusted. I even try using remote start and will not with that. this happens every few days or can go a week before problem starts again.
View 5 RepliesI have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
I have a 95 Pontiac grand am with a 98 motor. Everything is factory, no modifications. I just recently starting having an issue with the car attempting to stall out while driving over bumps and on some hard turns as well. Haven't replaced anything yet but would like to know what is causing this? I have shook wires, checked for broken ones and found nothing.
View 1 RepliesMy daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
Noticed a minor ping from my 2012 SE 2.4 when accelerating. Seemed to be less noticeable when A/C was turned off. Only have 6,500 miles on car. The oil level was down about 1/3 a quart; I topped off and will test tomorrow.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2007 volkswagen passat 2.0 L...115000 miles. Yesterday I was entering the freeway and I accelerated the car a bit when I started hearing this noise on the engine. I will try my best and describe the noise as a knocking of metal on metal. I thought maybe is the oil and changed it.
Now today I was going up the hill and accelerated the car when the noise appeared again, it happened again a little bit later, again going up a hill. There is no noise when I drive normally or I accelerate and I am not going up a hill.
Car has been running rough for a few days. Last night my engine light came on p0017. Called the dealer and they couldn't get it in until Monday. They said if the light wasn't flashing just bring it in then. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and the car started much smoother and the light went off. Drove into the city and once I got to my destination the light came back on and the car was running rough again. Decided to finish up and head home. However once I got in to make the drive home I could now hear a rattle when I accelerated coming from the engine. Then the oil light would come on every time I hit the gas to accelerate. I made it home as slow as possible but when I checked the oil it's not even reading on the dip stick and the dip stick smells burnt. No oil on the floor, oil filter and plug shows no leaks. I have noticed the past few weeks that my exhaust tips are dirtier than usual and black drops were all over the rear bumper and back of the trunk. Could this thing really have blown out that much oil. I just changed the oil less tHan 1000 miles ago.
View 29 RepliesI recently had to replace my drive belt on a 97' dodge grand caravan sport 3.3 engine. The belt shredded and this is how i knew i had to replace it. Since i replaced it i notice a whine type of noise that increases in pitch as the engine is accelerated. The other thing I've noticed is that all electrically related operations work better as it is accelerated. For example, the air blows harder, the wipers move faster, and the lights brighten. Now i honestly can't say that it didn't do this before i changed the belt. I wonder if a bearing is going out on a pulley. I have noticed the same behavior on my daughters 98 sable. Also note that i did get all of the pieces of the old belt out from the pulleys and i did spin each of them to make sure the were moving without any resistance.
View 8 Replies2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
I own a 2010 AWD Santa Fe. It gets factory scheduled maintenance at the dealership. Since owning ( i bought it used from Dealer, it was driven by dealer) it has periodically revved while driving. Often at lower speeds while accelerating from a stop. The engine will rev and the car will act as if it is in neutral. Then, after a few seconds there will be a sharp jerk as the transmission(?) engages and the car lurches forward. My dealer told me it is normal. This does not seem normal.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Saab 95's engine periodically downshifts. Usually the downshift happens after some highway acceleration. The ABS light turns on at the same time as the downshift. The road conditions are always dry. The downshifting started last summer and has continued during the winter months. The alternator was recently replaced but the downshifting periodically continues. MY Saab repair shop cannot figure out what the issue is.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Exploer Sport Trac with 236K on it
recently changed all plugs & wires as well as the coil pack to stop a sputter in the motor. it worked. now, very periodically and only for a split second i will loose all rpm and then back up again to normal. I was told that the computer may be going but i've plugged it in and it wont turn on a reader. other than that one hickup she runs like a dream now.
Periodically the engine light comes on and then when I hit the gas it "stutters" and the car jerks - similar jerking feeling when you are learning to drive a stick shift but this car is an automatic. I have to take foot off gas pedal and keep slowly applying again to building up speed. The stuttering stops as soon as I take my foot off the gas pedal. Sometimes when I stop the car, turn it off, the light will turn off and the car drives great. Sometimes that doesn't work and the light stays on for a day or two then magically is gone when I start the car again. I have noticed the light comes on most often if I haven't warmed it up enough before driving, but other times it just comes on. I have taken it to two different Honda dealers and they don't know what the issue is.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder with an exaust leak. On first morning start after the rpm drop to 500 the engine will shake periodically until I drive about half a mile then all is fine. I cleaned the trottle body at the area of the flap with throttle body cleaner and a tooth brush, and gave the car a tuneup. The problem went away for about 4 days but is back. What can I do to fix this.
View 2 RepliesI have an '07 Sonata and I just recently had an after market HID kit installed. My car has since periodically stalled and the check engine light came on. I ran the codes and they are P0698- Sensor C Reference Voltage CKT low, and P2110- Throttle Actuator Control System forced limited RPM. What does this mean and how can I fix it? I had a second battery installed so I know I have enough to power everything.
View 8 RepliesFor last couple of days the car is making a Thump sound when the engine turns over. then it gone- single thump sound....It only happens in the morning if the car is sitting in the garage overnight. I do not hear it if i park the car at work after 8 hours does not make the same sound.
I also feel it takes a bit tad longer to start the car(again only in the morning)- i thought it was the battery but the battery has been replaced 2 years ago.
i will try to record the sound tomorrow and post it. the car is fine once started no funny sounds or anything. Its a 2011 with 71k miles on it.
O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 f-350 diesel, with 33k miles, I am getting a light thump or thud from the passenger side in the engine compartment, It does it when the truck is NOT moving as well as when it is moving. It use to do it only periodically but now it is doing it about every 1-2 minutes and it happened 3 times while we were sitting at a stop light.
View 3 Replies