Grand AM :: 1994 2.3 L - No Power On Acceleration On Highway
Jul 11, 2010
I have a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 2.3 L. I went 3 blocks yesterday to the highway and as i got ready to pull out onto the highway I lost power (like foot feed to the floor and going 20 mph). Drove it back home (3 blocks) and the engine is over heating within 3 blocks but temp gage isn't registering over heating (Incredibly hot under the car within 3 blocks). Engine was shaking badly and whatever it was blew a hole in my muffler? Put on all new spark plugs, oil change, oil filter... No more shaking in the motor but still no power when trying to go. Cut catalytic converter off and tried to drive out of the driveway, still no power on acceleration.
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I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+
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I have a 2004 grand prix gt, within the last couple of days, it seems to loose power on acceleration and the motor completely dies at times. After waiting 10 seconds or so it will crank but may die again or just feel like it is loping. The problem is getting worse quickly. I have replaced the fuel filter. This did not stop the problem. I thinking it may be the fuel pump. If it is the fuel pump is there any way to verify this to be sure it is the problem before replacing it?
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I have a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser 3.1 with an intermittent engine power loss during acceleration. Usually it occurs just after leaving a stop sign or light once or sometimes twice in a row. It is not a hesitation - it is a very abrupt loss of power. I've kept up on the standard maintenance very well and the car has 80,000 miles, so I would not suspect spark plugs, wires, or fuel filter. It does not have a tachometer, but I am 99% sure the transmission is not slipping or jumping out of gear, but that the engine is actually loosing spark or fuel. This problem is very intermittent, but it has triggered the check engine light a couple of times. The check engine light does not stay on, and when I took it to my mechanic he said to keep driving it until the light stayed on or the problem was more easy to replicate. Right now, if a mechanic went for a test drive, there is a good chance it would not show any symptoms. My mechanic did mention that it may turn out to be an ignition module.
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I have a 94 grand am 2.3 quad ohc 8th number in vin is 5 the car run fine in any gear except reverse. Soon as its put in reverse the car stalls right out.
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Since a while I'm getting a vibration.... when going on the highway, the vibration is NOT there initially. Then it gradually get stronger and stronger as distance goes on, but same speed.
Hitting the brakes make the pedal vibrate sometime, but fade out. then the vibration is gone for a bit, and come back slowly.
Note that this is at a constant 100km/h, not increasing speed. I ruled out the wheel balance due to the fact that it's not constant. Everything seems to be tight, couln't feel any movement in anything.
Brake on the left side is way hotter than the right side, so I do suspect that the right side do not work correctly.
Sometime the wheel also kick on the left a bit while braking. I do not know if it's 2 problems or a single one. At last wheel swap, the calipers seemed to slide correctly.
Also, I think I have air in the brake line, as the pedal is too smooshy for my taste, and I can't seems to be able to make the abs kick in (but good tires, so might be the reason?)
Note: top plates on the front suspension seems to have a bit of play, but I believe it have no effect on this issue.
The winter tires, on separate rims, also do the same thing. It seems to get worse as time goes by.
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What is the solution to the "Service 4WD Switch" error message. My 1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo(4WD ALL-Time) keeps displaying this message every 2 minutes and it's so distracting. My mechanic doesn't seem to have a clue.
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My 05 Grand Am has about 75,000 miles on it. It has been a good car minus the occational strut mount replacement and front wheel bearing assembly. This cruise control problem has been going on for a couple years now.
It will just randomly quit while i'm going down the highway. Sometimes it wont do it for weeks, or sometimes do it 10 times in a 30 mile drive. Sometimes it will resume after i press the button once, sometimes i can hit it many times, sometimes it just seems to quit for a minute or two.
The wife and i took a 3 hour roadtrip this weekend and i was fuming after hitting the resume button dozens of times. We had alot of interstate traffic to dodge, alot of people on my butt. Thats not the greatest time for the cruise to be having problems.
She had it at the dealership right before the warranty was up and they said they "think" they know what it is, but their insurance company wont let them just change out $500 parts just because they "think" it's that part. I didn't hear about this at first from her or we would have made them fix it. What good is a warranty if they wont fix the problem you have?
I was hoping this is a common occurance with an easy fix. I am pretty good at working on my own vehicles so i can check certain parts if need be. What seems to be the most common problems to check when your cruise control has these problems?
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165k miles 4x4 6 speed, bone stock unmolested
Slowly progressing problem over 6 months. Occasional miss at highway speeds uphill has progressed to bucking and jerking during even gentle acceleration attempts.
I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.
I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.
I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L
Problem "Stalls at idle and at hwy speed" sometimes starts right up and sometime will not start. Sometimes it will lose acceleration but engine will still be running and you can punch the gas and it will go again.
It has been in the shop for most of the last 2 months. Driven in 3 times and hauled in twice.
Low mileage 70,000 - has been great until now - serviced regularly.
Did get new fuel pump only about 10,000 miles ago do to starting problem but in that case it just did not start.
Independent shop replaced distributor cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter. No codes and couldn't duplicate problem.
Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump (they said wiring problem), O2 sensor, engine module no help, they asked us to pick up car because it ran fine. It stalled within 2 miles of shop.
We replaced gas cap just in case.
Limped back to shop to replace crank sensor as it was suggested several places. Ran fine for about 45 minutes then back to old tricks. Relays have been checked. Still at shop trying to trace problem. At least nobody is saying they can't duplicate problem as it now stalls all the time.
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My brother has an 03 GA GT. The car recently started bogging down on acceleration. It tops out at about 25 mph, and full throttle causes the car to stall. He was throwing a code for the egr valve, and replaced that. Then he threw a code for maf sensor, swapped it and no change. We've also changed the MAP, TPS, IAC, O2, Coolant Temp sensor; so far, no luck. I don't know much about these cars?
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I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am w 3.1 engine that is my son's college car. We recently rebuilt the original engine and put it in after having a 99 monte carlo 3.1 engine in it's place and it had a head gasket problem as well. Just before we switched engines my son was noticing that it would kind of hesitate under acceleration from about 1500 rpm to around 2000 rpm especially when it was wanting to up shift. I figured it would resolve itself with the engine change. It did not. It has now gradually gotten worse.
My son drove it to Liberal about 4 hours away and he stated it was worse and especially when you would get into overdrive it would drop down to around 2000 rpm then start sputtering or loading up or just being dead then would down shift to 3rd and try to clean itself out and speed up and then up shift to OD and do the same cycle again. I drove it back and kept it in 3rd gear and seemed to run fine at 2500 or higher. I also had to go thru low, and 2 and feather it up from a standing start. It idles fine as well.
I thought it might be like one of the saturns I had which ended up having a plugged Catalytic converter and a bad coolant temp sensor. This morning I did a test hole and it made no difference. I tried a different coil pack/ESC and it made no difference. I cleaned the MAF sensor and no change. The fuel pressure is 41 then 38 when idling then 43 when remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. I also changed the fuel filter.
I was kind of ruling out the tps, iac, and egr and water temp sensor as those were part of the other engine when I put the other engine in so they are different and I am assuming they must be good. Plugs and plug wires are new as well. It has not thrown any codes. I did notice that when it is just in park and you press on the accelerator to rev it up it only will rev to 3500 rpm and will shut down like a rev limiter is kicking in and just do a kind of surge thing. My saturn did that too and it was a plugged cat and when I knocked the biskit out of the manifold on that car it stopped. I have already got that ruled out though.
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One day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
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I did a C6 swap on my '94 F150 4x4 recently to replace the M5OD the previous owner burned up. Just to check on things I hooked a brand new autometer trans temp gauge up to check out the temps. What I'm worried about is that on the highway (60-70 mph) it climbs up to 210*.
This was at night at about 75* outside temp. I know the C6 doesn't have a lockup converter, but these temps seem kind of high. It's not a heavy truck, not towing anything and I'm running stock sized 235's with 3.08 gearing.
For now I'm just using the internal radiator trans cooler, but I have a large factory bolt on cooler from an F350 of the same year that I plan on putting on. I have the gauge sender in the drivers side test port just in front of the shift linkage. I'm also running a deep pan that adds 2 quarts to the system.
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1994 celica GT 2.2L
Just happened last night, i was driving on the highway when i noticed my temp needle was reading about a 1/4 of an inch higher than normal. That's never happened before. It's always been rock steady right in the middle. I was doing about 80 miles an hour. i slowed down to about 65 and the needle went back to the middle. I sped up to 70 and the needle went back up again. So i slowed down again and it went back down.
Tonight i was on the highway again, but due to the freezing rain and hail, i was doing between 40 and 60. Tonight the Gauge never moved from the middle. It was steady all the way until i got on the off ramp at the light, Then it went up and came back down by itself. I didn't hear the fans come on. I went to a local parking lot to do some tests. I parked the car (gauge was in the middle), and reved the engine to raise the temperature. It went up and then came down. Fans did not come on. Strange. I them went back to my house. parked the car, put the hood up and tried to make the fans some on. Here's where it gets interesting...
while in my drive way, the needle goes up, both fans come on high speed, needle drops. I then tried to do it again. Reved the engine for a second, i hear both fans come on high speed, but the needle is in the middle. It did the same thing again with the needle in middle again.
There are no external leaks. engine oil is full. Both fans work, but on high. There is no debris covering the radiator. I replaced the thermostat around april 2011,( it was not a genuine toyota part and didn't have jiggle valve. is that ok? it's been fine all this time.) Timing belt and water pump have not been replaced (so i've been told).
Tomorrow i will check the coolant in the radiator, ignition timing, and check the radiator cap. What are the odds of it being the cooling fan switch or a relay? i only ask because it hasn't come on low speed since this happened. Will warm car up in drive way and see tomorrow.
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I got a funny shifting issues that happens infrequently that I can no figure out. It happens after driving the car for a while on the highway, but not every time, and not just on the highway.
Here is my problem... when cruising down the highway the check engine light will come on stay on for a around a minute, the the check engine light will turn off, then of which my truck will lose power, not accelerate no matter how much I stomp on the gas, until my speed drops to under 55mph.
Once I get down to 55mph the truck will drop 2 gears into 3rd gear and then I can accelerate back up to speed. This will repeat every few miles. The computer will not store the check engine code, so no codes are pulled.
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Alright, car's overheating, but generally not at under ~55mph or so. When I hit the highway and accelerate, the thermostat climbs and hovers 3/4s of the way to red. But only sometimes. Sometimes, often when I'm going down a hill, it will swings down to normal. Once it's gotten hot, if I take it off the highway and am idling or driving in the 15-40mph range, the temp gauge will spike. But only sometimes. Sometimes I'll hear the fans kick in while it's idling/overheating. The temperature will go back to normal, and then rise again and stay there or spike (seemingly randomly). It's never reached all the way to the red, but it toes the line. And I take the darn thing into the shop and it refuses to overheat.
I've taken the radiator reservoir out and there seems to be green fluid (antifreeze/coolant?) in the water (have flushed it repeatedly)...and over the course of several weeks, the water level itself will go down. Both fans and the thermostat have been replaced in the last 6 months. Additionally, the timing belt and serpentine belt have been replaced within 5 months, as have affected pistons.((S/N--RPMs are really....low? ~2500 @ 75mph? but don't seem to correlate w/temperature. would they effect it?)
I took it into my shop and they said "we ran all the tests and couldn't find anything wrong." Cool? I'm at a loss..
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Why does my Volvo 850 (1994) continue to shut off? The fuel pump and filter have been changed as well as having the gas tank cleaned. Car runs good but occasionally shuts down while driving on highway and local driving.
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I have a 1994 Honda Civic LX. It has a new 4 month old radiator and the fluid level is good. When I do in city driving I have no real heat to speak of. But when I get on the highway the heat kicks back in.
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My 1994 Aerostar, with 100,000 miles on it, started lurching at highway speeds. Weeks before this, the airbag light began blinking. The transmission man said it felt like it was shifting into overdrive, then out, then into overdrive, then out, etc.,etc. About this time, the cruise control quit being reliable. Dealership said codes didn't show a problem, "I must be mistaken". Then they said it sounded like a fuel filter.
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My 94 ranger 4.0 v-6 makes clicking noises when hauling a load at highway speeds. How do i correct this?
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