Golf - Volkswagen :: ABS Damaged During Wheel Bearing Repair?
Mar 19, 2014
I have a 2006 VW Golf with 140,000 miles. Last week took it to the shop to have a wheel bearing replaced. Mechanic also replaced the wheel hub. When I left the shop I discovered a new problem that had not previously been there. Now the Anti-lock brakes are kicking in at the very end of a soft stop on smooth, dry roads and even in my garage. This happens about 20% of the time, but never during a hard stop. I took it back to the shop on Monday and mechanic could not find anything and was perplexed. The question is whether the ABS sensor could have been damaged during repairs and is the car safe to drive?
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how can you tell if your vapor recovery system is faulty? I cannot fill my gas tank unless I very slowly put gas in. It takes forever to even put in a few gallons. I think the vent is plugged or I overfilled the tank and got gas in the canister.
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So my dog was riding in the back seat of my 2011 SD with covers when he suddenly went nuts over seeing a bunch of Prong Horn running along the road and jumping a fence. It was pretty cool to see, but he scratched the heck out of the arm rests.
How the scratched dark grey color can be repaired? Everything about the truck has remained pretty pristine inside and out, but this is really bothering me and I can find no information.
I'd even consider recovering all 4 with some sort of kit, if available like they have for some dashes and interiors.
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2 nights ago I was driving around the neighborhood. I was coming down a small hill to a stop sign where I could only make a right or a left. I proceeded to turn right and a dog ran in front of the car. I swerved to the left, managing to not hit the dog but run flat into the sidewalk. In the moment it felt like my bumper had just scraped the edge and it sounded like I had just scatched the bottom of the bumper. I proceeded down the street for about 2-3 minutes before my car started slowing down. The engine was still on but when I pushed down on the pedal to accelerate the engine just revved.
When I looked down to see if maybe I had knocked the car into neutral, I couldn't move the shifter and it appeared to be stuck in reverse? When I tried pulling my car to the side of the road I found that now my steering wheel was also locked up and could barely tug it enough to get it moved over. Finally, I made it to the side of the road and now my brakes were locked as well. I managed to stop it with the e-brake but still the shifter wouldn't budge to put it in park. I turned the car off to avoid damaging the engine. I didn't address this problem immediately so I came back the following day to check it out, and couldn't get the car to turn over. I had power, the battery was fine, the engine wouldn't even make a noise like it was trying.
Eventually I looked underneath the car and saw the oil leaking from what I believe is the oil pan? This is my first car and know absolutely nothing about how an engine works. Could this be a computer response so that the engine doesn't seize? Again, the brakes, the gear shifter,and the steering wheel are all locked and won't budge. I used the emergency release lever to realease the gear shifter and was able to pull it into neutral and start the engine but I had to hold the shifter firmly the whole time and if I let go it would pop back into reverse(but it still rolls forward like it's in neutral?). Is this something a warranty or insurance would cover? Hopefully this is just the oil pan because I do not have a fraction of the money to get my transmission or engine entirely replaced.. It's a 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE with 45k miles on it.
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My 2003 VW Jetta TDI has a major problem. The engine has likely been damaged by an oil leak that was not discovered until the oil ran out. I now have much reduced compression (340lbs or less) and the car doesn't like to start in cold weather and when it does it smokes much. I need to know if it is worth rebuilding and, if so, where I might have this work done.
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I have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
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Recently the dealer damaged the leather on my steering wheel and is having a guy repair it. Work obligations have made it very difficult to get time to take the car in and I would have to really squeeze to get the car in to them at the moment.
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So after doing wheel bearings in the car. both front and back. I'm still getting the "wheel-bearing hum" sound if you will. Don't know how this can be possible with all brand new wheel bearings and hub in the front passenger side. other hubs were fine. I do need tires which will be ordered soon/ alignment im sure.
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I think it is cv joint not sure. [URL] .....
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Alright a few weeks ago I had right wheel bearing replaced...noise still there... Had tires balanced, rotated, checked for capping. The dealer hears the noise but can't tell where its coming from.
The sound is classic wheel bearing Whoop Whoop Whoop and I can control it when I turn to the wheel right and left. This will be the fourth time its in the shop.
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Have a whirring/wheel bearing metallic rubbing noise at 70-80 mph, 6th gear (manual transmission). It's hard to pinpoint the location but it's from the engine area! I heard about water pump failures but thought I'd hear that all the time not just at speed... MKVI GTI ...
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Changing wheel bearing on mk4. makes noise when i turn to the right. what side is bad? i like working on my own car but this might be out of my hands.
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So my front right Wheel bearing is making noise and its a used Knuckle so its w/e. Guess ill use tonight to do all my bushings and fluids n stuff.
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2005 Jetta. My passenger side door emits the most high pitched, eye-gougingly disturbing noise when opening. I don't have any wd40 handy, would it be okay to just spread dome Mag1 wheel bearing grease over the hinge? Might be a stupid question, but that won't damage anything right?
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I have a Mk6 GTI 2010 and recently there has been some noise coming from the rear of the car and the noise changes with speed and sounds similar to a wheel bearing.. So I jacked up the rear and found that there was play in the passenger rear wheel.. The bolt holding the hub together was tight..
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I have an 02 Jetta with the 2.0 that I have been trying to resurrect. We've owned it from new and it's been a great commuting car but it was in desperate need for some TLC. The car has been very reliable for 250k-km and I want to make it last at least another 3 years. So, rather than sell the car for nothing - I've decided to invest some time in swapping parts in from a scrapped GLI w/24v VR6 (with ~130k km) that I picked up for $500. I figure that I'll never feel the pain of depreciation by just never selling the car!
I've already used the GLI to do some cosmetic upgrades (goodbye foggy head lights), replaced a rusted fender and a rock battered hood, a broken side view mirror - as well as do a full leather interior swap. The engine is destined for my Eurovan -- which has left me wondering what other parts I could use off the car before sending it to the wrecker.
So basically -- my 2.0 needs a wheel bearing and the stock suspension has been creaking and noisy for a long time. I see that the brakes and wheel bearing housings are different between 2.0 and VR6 -- but I'm thinking of swapping it all over at once and want to know if this is plausible. The brakes are definitely bigger (FN3 style) with nice factory painted calipers and just in better condition overall -- so I know I need the wheel bearing housing. So- is it possible to swap the entire strut out with the wheel bearing housing and all still attached? Seems this might be less work and faster than actually swapping out the just the wheel bearings.
Will the axles from the 2.0 still work?
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I have a VW Golf 2005 diesel. Lately (the past 2 months approx) it has started shaking when I go uphill, but not immediately. Accelerating up the hill initially is fine. For the car to shake I have to take my foot off the gas pedal (because someone is braking or turning) and then when I hit the gas again to continue, the car shakes left to right enough that I notice, but not life threatening. It only does this when the wheel is straight. If I make a turn up the hill the shaking stops, until I turn the wheel straight again, and then it continues until I reach flat road in which it ends all together. I am normally mid way up the hill when I need to do this and have decreased to about 25-30 mph and am trying to accelerate to 35-45.
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From what I've read, I have a special 16" 7 spoke alloy European version wheel on my '09 Prius. Unfortunately, I hit a big pothole and bent the rim enough to render it unusable. I've searched a while and have been unsuccessful in finding a replacement.
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I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
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While in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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