this has just started recently. when ever i am wide open the car sputters a bit when at the top of the rpm range say 4,000 and above. this one has really got me scratching my head... list of upgrades are dual port blow off valve set to atmospheric, 3 inch downpipe back to the stock mufflers with no cats and the neu speed reflash.
View 9 RepliesToday I was leaving my buddys house when I got in my car it started fine then I let off the brake and the epc light came on and the gas is stuck wide open unless I have my foot on the brake unplugged the plug that goes to the gas pedal and it was fine but the epc light was still on plugged it back in and the same thnig so i put my gas pedal on my buddy jetta and it worked fine on his car. Its a 1.8t jetta 03 wolfsburg edition 119000miles
View 2 RepliesEvery time I start my passat after it sits for more than 4 or 5 hours (overnight, workday) it sounds like the turbo is winding up at full rpm for about 10 secs. and then stops. It only happens on cold starts. I've had it in two shops with no luck what so ever.
View 8 RepliesI noticed today all the seams in my bed are wide open, no seam sealer was put in them before it was painted! Are they all like this or was mine not finished properly? Check your beds. I can see daylight and the ground at all the seams!
View 14 RepliesI've been using full synthetic 0W-20 oil since it was new(2010 Prius. It is an early build). Last time I had an oil change was about a year and a half ago, oil has 8,000 miles on it. I ran the car hard today at wide open throttle around town. Never driven this way for the past 68,000 miles/5 years. All fluid levels are normal. When I went to check the oil dipstick after running the car at WOT a few times, I noticed a few flakes on the dip stick. Nothing big, just a 1-2 flakes very small flakes every time I reinsert the dip stick. Flakes are about the size of a single dust particle. It's 86 degrees out, which supposedly 0W-20 should protect the engine.
View 19 RepliesExperience a strong smell when WOT? Seems like every time I put my foot down hard through a couple of gears it stinks for a few minutes. The car only has 28000km, fresh oil change and running great.
View 5 RepliesI have an 06 gs300 awd. My left front axle boot is torn wide open. I've called multiple parts stores, looked online. And I can't seem to find one anywhere but the dealer. I have found one for gs350. So my question is will that one work in my gs300? What is the part number from the dealer is different between 06 and 07?
View 5 RepliesSometimes you have to put pedal to the metal to pass slowpokes blocking 2 line roads (I'm talking city/suburb driving here). but, i noticed that the smell follows. first couple of times, i thought it was coming from some other car, but this time, I realized it was me.
No, it's not burning tire due to the insane acceleration (not in this car). What else could be? should i worry about the car bursting in flames?
So of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose this since "the car's not supposed to be driven that way" - but I get a nasty rumbling noise when I accelerate from a dead stop with wide open throttle. It only lasts for the first few thousand RPMs in first gear, and after that it is gone.
I was guessing that it might be the transfer case or something like that, but it's really hard to tell. I do have AWD. I did not have any such problem in my previous GS, which was a 2007 (current is a 2010). It's worse when I accelerate around a corner, and it also makes a small noise when I'm going above 80ish mph, which of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose either.
I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
I picked up a Mk7 Golf S a few weeks back with 5MT. I'm coming from driving 3 different B5.5 Passats over the last seven years (two 1.8T, one V6, all three manual). The first thing I noticed, and enjoyed, with the Mk7 is a much improved throttle response. No more stepping on the gas and waiting 1+ seconds for the tach to rev up on downshifts. However, after seven years of Passat driving I had grown accustomed to the consistent (albeit somewhat slow) shift times. All that said, downshifting on the Mk7 5MT feels a lot nicer than it ever did in a Passat.
My issue with the Mk7 is that there seems to be a wide degree of inconsistency with shift times. Sometimes the tach just hangs for a 1.25+ seconds when I shift to neutral while waiting for the RPMs to drop for the next (higher) gear. Other times the tach drops immediately. I've read that the gear ratios are somewhat steep for the 5MT, so I've been trying to adjust my expectations and foot movements accordingly. Additionally, I have been paying closer attention to when I get my foot off the throttle in preparation for a shift. However, the inconsistency is still there no matter where I shift in the RPM range. Does the flywheel in the 5MT weigh 30lbs? Is this purely user error, a transmission issue, or am I just crazy for expecting the tach to drop when I shift into neutral? Just trying to get a read on whether or not I am alone here.
Lastly, would a torque arm insert provide any potential improvement to shifter feel and the reduce the inconsistent shift times I am experiencing? I am not so keen on adding vibration to the cabin as the car is dead silent on the highway at 75mph, but if there would be a significant improvement in 1st/2nd/3rd gear shifts for city driving I might be willing to bite.
Drove the car, 20 min to shopping, and when I came out the car would sputter and die??!! it happened a few times.. it would crank for really a long time, engine would fire up but sputter & die. I was cussing & let the car sit at mall parking lot for a bit, thinking I'll have to cab home but it started up again after 10 min and drove fine. It happened on a parking lot, not on the highway.
View 24 RepliesWell, after owning 4 other VW's, this one has left me "stranded". I bought my 2012 Autobahn GTI back in September and it had been absolutely problem free up until now. I have the APR flash and Carbonio intake as my only modifications for reference.
I drove over to my girlfriend's house yesterday around 5:30pm, had no issues or anything up until this point. I get into my car around 10:30pm, ready to go home and push the starter. The car cranks up, then sputters out. This has actually happened once or twice before when I pushed the starter too quickly, so I chalked it up to that. I push the starter again, I get a click, and then nothing. A ton of warning lights come on, I get a couple warning messages come up, one about an error with the ESC, and one about the adaptive lighting system. The car's fan turns on, as if the car was running.
I try to start the car a few more times without any luck, and keep getting the same warning messages. I then got out of the car, locked the doors and let the car go to sleep. I wait 15 minutes and try starting the car again, still can't start. At this point I'm pretty much ready to throw in the towel, but I decided to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, hoping that when I reconnect I'll be able to start it. It still didn't work. At this point I know I'm going to have to take it to the dealer, so I try to put the car back into stock mode. I couldn't even do that.
I ended up having to call roadside assistance. To add to my frustration, I requested a flat bed and instead a front-wheel lift one came. I had my car towed to the dealer, had my gf follow the tow truck to the dealer and filled out the night drop off form and left my key.
This morning I call the service department, trying to inquire about my car and the service adviser tells me "your car has severe electrical issues and we are not going to be able to diagnose them today." He asked me if I had any performance software on the car, and I tell him that this is my 5th VW that I've owned, and that every one has had the same APR software on it. I had my car flashed back in September or October, and that I've never had an issue with it with any car. The service adviser then tells me that this is going to have to go to his manager to write off on it if they determine this is caused by my flash or not.
Now I'm stuck without a car, at least through Monday. I asked for a service loaner and they told me they had none and that since they are closed on Sunday, the soonest I might be able to get one is Monday. I just started a new job and have no vacation time saved up, so the timing of this is certainly not ideal. I know that I assumed responsibility by getting the flash, but I've got my fingers and toes crossed that they don't point the blame on the flash and make me pay out of pocket for this.
My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
So my new problem is cold engine starts If it's mildly cold out like 30-40 F or 0-10C and has been sitting awhile the car won't start on the first couple of tries. It tries to start but I guess chokes/sputters out like its not getting enough gas. Warm engine it starts instantly.
I put a bottle of gumout regane fuel system cleaner in the tank hoping its a dirty fuel system seeing it feels like it chokes out on gas during the cold start. I'm about half way done that tank and was going to add another bottle on the next tank.
I'm worried about the cold winter approaching and found out issue 8001 today that the oil pan heater is ripped off with broken wires and missing cover.
I use my 2011 GTI for track days and have done hundreds of laps with no issues. Yesterday, I got out on the track for the first session and almost immediately I got what has to be fuel starvation on long right-hand high speed turns. The car sputtered and lost power exiting the turn and would return to normal once it got going straight again. The only way I could avoid it was to feather the throttle, which of course doesn't do much for lap times. At that point the tank was about half full, so between sessions I filled it up. With the tank full, there was no problem, but it returned when the tank got down to about 3/4. I filled it up again, and once more it was fine for a while, but the problem returned, this time with about 7/8 of a tank, so I gave up. I drove home (about 100 miles) with no trouble at all.
I know that the fuel pick up is on the right side, so it makes sense that the problem would occur on long right-hand turns. Is it possible that the in-tank pump is getting weak, or that maybe something happened to the baffles in the tank? I have another track day in a month, so I need to get to the bottom of this.
I have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
View 10 RepliesI have a 2015 forester & the seats are not wide enough so my right leg rests on the front corner of the seat & after driving 70 miles my legs & back are hurting. I think the outback has seats 2 inches wider , that could work.
View 2 RepliesI just rotated the OEM Ecopia tires at near 40,000 miles. They still have some life left (5000-10,000 miles). I noticed that there are wide wear bars and I'm 1-2 mm from reaching those, but there are also other narrower and shallower bars. Is this wet or snow type of indicator?
There are arrowheads next to the real wear bars and not next to the smaller ones, so they are not really wear bars.
Is it just me or is the range of the keyless entry on the Camry really really bad. I almost have to be right on top of the car for it to work. I have a g6 (2009)and a Civic (2000) that also has keyless entry on it and I think both of them have more range than the Camry.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. There is a slight rubbing noise when I make wide turns and I suspect it is the wheel bearings. How much should it cost to replace these, and how thin is the ice I am skating on if I put it off?
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