Golf VI R :: When Idling RPMS Would Surge Ever So Slightly
Sep 7, 2012
I've been dealing with this for some time now because it hasn't seemed to affect my performance when I am getting on it, but when I am at idle the rpms will surge ever so slightly and i can watch the needle on my boost gauge bouncing up and down. i have a WINtake on the car and it started ever since i installed that. I am wondering what this could be. I've already taken the whole intake out and reinstalled thinking i had a leak somewhere. even tried swapping my maf with a known good one off the lot on a brand new R.
I read somewhere that someone had their maf in backwards. could this be the issue? I don't have any power loss that I am aware of. in fact, if its down on power now, i would have a hard time believing that it could be much faster with what i have done to it. this idle surge will get worse when i have my ac on also. someone make me realize that I am missing something stupid and simple here so i can have a normal idle again. I am half tempted to put my stock intake back on to see but i no longer have the turbo inlet plastic pipe to test it with.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
2001, 7.3 sometimes surges slightly on takeoff ??
View 1 Replies
So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 passat sedan with a vr6 auto. The problem I am having is when idling it will start to surge and sometimes cut off. The car will sit and idle fine and then just start surging and then idle fine again.
View 2 Replies
Earlier this winter and last year, the forum had discussed the occasional fast idle in the 3.6L. Symptoms include the engine idling at 950-1000 RPM and the car feeling like it wants to surge forward. I had the problem twice during heavy snowstorms in February, but nothing really since...until this past week.
The weather here in Chicago has been in the early 90s and I've had the AC cranked. At the same point, I've had the fast idle event occur at least 5-6 times in the past week. Almost every time it has occurred while moving in very heavy traffic. Have others seen something similar in very hot weather?
View 23 Replies
So my 20th AE has been wrecked. But here is the issue, the car will idle for a about 30 seconds to a minute but surge from 1500 rpms to around 750. But after that, it won't idle. If I let it sit for a couple of days, then it will idle for a little bit then die again.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Has about 65k miles on it and has regular maintenance and tune ups when needed. It is cared for. The last tune up was about 2k miles ago. Spark plug change, oil change, filters, etc.
I have noticed lately that when the car is moving at idle speeds, it will surge about 200 rpms. It does not happen when the breaks are on or stopped or in park, or moving at higher speeds. It only does it while moving and with no acceleration. It happens in Drive and Reverse.
I live in the city of Lima Peru so a 4x4 is useful but it also requires some tight parking but when it starts to surge, it is a huge pain.
View 8 Replies
I have a 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 3.0, and it is giving me some trouble. If the MAF sensor is plugged in the RPM's surge up and down, anywhere from 600-2000. If you unplug the MAF sensor it runs smoothly around 1600 RPM. I put in a brand new MAF sensor and that didn't change anything at all. Everybody I talk to says it must have a vacuum leak?
View 6 Replies
A few days ago my 98 C1500 started having what I can only imagine is some type of torque converter issue. While driving at a constant speed the RPM will surge by about 500-600. This surge does not coincide with any type of acceleration, it's more like the converter is letting go and the RPM's just rise and fall back down. The fluctuations also seem to stop after about 15 minutes of normal driving. I have had no real noticeable transmission issues. At first i assumed it was my tranny fluid just breaking down so to get me home I used a bottle of Lucas.
The bottle seemed to do the trick for only a couple of days and now the problem is back...no better, no worse. The only difference I have noticed is that before the addition of the Lucas my fluid looked perfect and now it seems there is a bit of varnish. No smell, nothing seems burnt, just a little dirty. I haven't changed the tranny fluid for about 70k and the truck now has roughly 160K on it. My concern is that if I do change it the transmission will crap completely and I'll be on the hook for a rebuild.
View 6 Replies
Why does my engine rpms surge from 1k to almost 3k when i put it in neutral or push my clutch in ?
It's an 07 2.5 jetta with manual tranny...
View 2 Replies
I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer (2WD) with 115k miles. When I turn the key and start the car, the RPMs rev up really high for about 4 seconds and then drop down real low until the car dies. All in all this is about an 8-second process, and it sounds like I'm flooring the accelerator when, in fact, I'm not even touching it. The Blazer just started doing this, but previously for about the last few months about once a month, when I would start the car I would get a loud backfire sound which sounded like it came from under the hood (driver's side), and this was followed by the smell of exhaust coming into the cab through the AC vents. How to go about diagnosing this since I'm unable to drive it to get the codes read
View 11 Replies
2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
View 2 Replies
My car (1994 TBird, LX) has an intermittent problem where the rpm's surge while I'm cruising down the freeway. I've noticed that it happens more often on an incline, and it also happens more during rush hour when I have to frequently slow down and the accelerate again.
If I had to guess, I think it's the TCC Solenoid that's the issue. Would replacing this likely solve the problem? Or would I be better served having my mechanic unplug it? My car is giving error codes to replace the camshaft position sensor (related?), and while important, I need to address the rpm issue first as it's getting progressively worse. Tranny fluid is clean, although I've only owned the car for 2 months so I don't know when it was last replaced.
I can't afford a huge repair, but I have a certified mechanic who's always done right by me, but he's not the best at diagnosis. I'd feel better if I could whittle down the issues and then just tell him what to fix.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.
View 3 Replies
So I had this issue with my idling at 1300 rpms but every now and then it would idle at 400 and barley run then one day it didnt want to idle at all so I checked the iac and it was bad so I changed my oil, fuel filter, iac, cleaned my throttle body, fixed a vacuum hose, and cleaned my air filter.
When I started it it idle at 2200 I drove it a little and it dropped down to 1300 the next day I started it and it idled at 800 and staid there for four days now it idles at 2000 then will drop down and surge between 1300 and 1800.
I read that the oil you apply to the filter can contaminate the Maf and you should clean it but a lot of people said the one on a vr4 can't be cleaned while others say it fine. Is there a way to check the maf?
View 1 Replies
So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
View 10 Replies
I've got a 99 f250 5.4 that runs like a top. In the last 6 months I've been chasing a little problem. It doesn't happen all the time but seem to be happen more and more. While driving any speed If I let off the gas the RPM's hold at around 1500 then surges down to 1000 then back up again to 1500.
Does that 2 to 4 times then all good. Give it gas again it does it again. It kind of does it when it wants. Could be fine for a trip around then next trip it acts up again. Checked a lot of the vacuum lines, PVC valve and replaced the idle control next to the EGR valve. EGR is next.
Idles and runs fine except the surge thing..
P0401 code as well.
View 11 Replies
My high mileage 2002 SC430 seems to shake very slightly when I the car is idling at traffic lights (both when it is warm and when it is cold). The shaking is very very slight but it is noticeable. The shaking does not occur if the air conditioning is running or when the car is moving. The check engine light is not on.
The previous owner did mention that the alternator may need to be replaced eventually, but I don't know if this could be related.
View 14 Replies
I drove my daughter's Dodge Neon last night and found that when I'm on the highway, the RPM goes up slightly every few seconds. I had about 30 minutes of driving until I was home so I tried to figure out if my speed had anything to do with it.
It doesn't happen when I decelerate or am at an idle. When I'm on a flat stretch of highway and using the gas pedal, the RPMs will increase. I didn't notice the feel of the engine changing, I heard the engine speed up a bit.
What kind of problem is this? The car has 109,000 miles on it.
View 11 Replies
Recently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.
View 2 Replies
1994 f150 with 4.9L I6; 180k mi.
Parked vehicle last night after using it uneventfully for work the day before. Upon leaving the house at 11:30 AM, I noticed that I'd picked up a new mechanical noise. Nothing major; actually wasn't sure I heard anything at all.
As I drove to the store, I noticed it was idling slightly unsteady...much less so than a missing cylinder. I resolved to check the high-tension connectors when I got home for security. I glanced down at the gauges to check and see if my oil pressure was good; I then noticed coolant temp reading "high normal."
When I got out, I noticed a small pool of coolant forming. I looked at where the puddle was forming...the radiator hose had come off! (Actually separate from the radiator connector, as one might do if draining fluid without using the petcock.) I popped the hood: no unusual smells. Nothing seemed abnormally hot. Placing a finger against the head was uncomfortable, but not painful. Spit expectorated upon the head did not sizzle.
I then called my wife, explaining the situation, and walked back home 2 miles. We then took the spare car, bought antifreeze, and added it about an hour post-shutdown. Where the car was parked seemed wetter than the light drizzle allowed; daubing a finger in it and tasting gave a slight sweet taste.
I tend to check my fluid every so often (not every day, though) and coolant was verified as "full" as recently as 100 miles ago. (I don't make a habit of crawling underneath, though, so I couldn't tell you if hose had been slowly backing off or not.)
As to cause: is it plausible that this could happen without foul play? There have been a few vandalism incidents in the neighborhood; it's also possible that I [peeved] off a neighbor recently. I'm not about to go any further than fixing, though, unless there's really no other plausible explanation.
As to the mechanical questions: How much damage was done? Did I "catch it" in time? What is suggested as far as repairs/maintenance? (I was planning on doing a compression test, and keeping a close eye on fluid levels over the next 1,000 miles or so.) Engine sounds completely normal.
View 19 Replies
