Golf VI R :: When Accelerating Tach Seems To Outpace Actual Rate Of Acceleration
Dec 7, 2014
So as of late, I've noticed something strange while I accelerate at hwy speeds. I'll try my best to describe. Cruising on the hwy at 68 mph in 6th gear at about 3000 rpm. Without downshifting, I press on the accelerator to speed up and the tach (and subsequent engine noise) seems to outpace the actual rate of acceleration.
The tack needle about a second or 2 after pressing the gas pedal moves quickly to about 3300 rpm and then settles down to 3100 rpm.After that acceleration seems normal.I tried it again and same result happened.Later I was on surface streets and tried the same thing but at a lower speed and gear. It seemed to produce a similar result.
My question is, what the heck could be causing this? Clutch starting to go? Car has only 17800 miles. I have a UM Stage 1 tune w/ CTS Turbo intake that has been on for the last 3000 miles. Give or take. I remember burning the clutch 2 times in the past. I don't track or do any kind of hoonage with it.
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2011 SE leased in December 2010. I Now have 14,000 miles and my trans has started to slip.
First slip was yesterday on a a fully warmed motor while I was accelerating at a normal rate of speed. I am guessing the car was in 2nd gear (25mph) and the rpms shot all the way up to redline. I let off the gas, coasted for a few seconds and the trans engaged the gear and I kept driving. No cel
Today the same thing happened under the same conditions but this time when the trans re-engaged the gear, the car jerked forward pretty violently.
About 15 minutes later this happened again but at highway speeds (65mph) while cruising. Again, violent jerk and a thump when the trans caught the gear.
After all this I have no CEL. I know if I bring the truck to the dealer they are going to give me the old, "we cant reproduce the problem." Once the trans starts to slip like this the damage has already been done and its just a matter of time before I am stranded on the the side of the road.
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I've seen a copy of the order guide, and I still can't figure out what the differences between 2015 and 2016 GTIs is going to be. Maybe I'm not reading it correctly, but it doesn't look much, if any different.
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I have a 2001 Golf with a 2.0L motor. I've had this issue for a while now; the motor burns oil at an unreasonable rate - around a quart every 1200 miles. If I'm at a long traffic light and idling, a lot of white smoke will come out the back when I start moving. I don't notice smoke any other time. Also, the gas mileage is reduced by about 75 miles per tank when it's cold outside.
I have recently replaced:
temperature sensor
thermostat
plugs & wires
cleaned mass airflow sensor
The last mechanic I went to, who I will no longer be using, as he is incompetent, thought the cause for the lost cold weather mileage and burning oil is the PCV valve. A friend thought it would be a worn head gasket. I'm having trouble finding any info on PCV valves for this motor.
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I am throwing a code for long term fuel trim being out of whack (code 17560) and I am trying to determine whether the MAF is causing it.
I pulled several redline runs while logging flow rate in vagcom. According to Ross tech's site they suggest that your flow rate should be around 80% of the engines rated horsepower. So approximately 200 g/s. I did several runs and never broke 100 g/s so what I should be seeing or has run into this code before.
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Went out this morning - which was one of the first times we've dropped to freezing since I've had the R32. Car started fine - but idling was rough - almost felt like it was surging. Rev'd it a few times, no change. Meanwhile the tach malfunction light appeared. I turned it off and then restarted. No tach light and it was idling normally.
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Yesterday in MN when it was -17 while on the highway around 5 pm my 96 Audi A6 started accelerating by itself. I was able to get of the highway and to a parking lot where it idled in park at about 4000 rpm's before I turned it off and let it sit for several minutes. I started it twice the second time it did not rev up to 4000, it was just normal. My question is this a sign of something terrible or just the cold messing with my old car? Should I have something specifically checked out?
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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My 2003 Xterra has been a great car. Few problems until last year I had to have the timing belt replaced (at 120,000 miles no biggie), the day that I got back from Iraq. Well everything has been great since then until a couple of weeks ago I started noticing some acceleration problems. When I press on the accelerator, especially when the car is cold, it will rev, pause, then resume normal accleration. I would like to point out that the whole car pauses, not just the reving. Mechanics seemed stumped and I would rather know what to tell them to do rather than let them dig around and charge me a bunch.
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For the past couple of weeks I have been having some issues with my trunk. The MFD would say that the trunk is open when indeed it is not. With that happening the car will lock the doors but not arm with an audible beep and the door lock lights will flicker at the same time so would the trunk display on the MFD.
I found a fix by locking the trunk down with the valet key on the driver door by the trunk/gas buttons, that stopped the trunk display from lighting up and the car was no able to arm the alarm properly.
Now within 3 days the issue has come back up even with the trunk locked with the valet key. In order to get the car to arm properly I have to unlock the Trunk Switch , open the trunk, re close trunk and then re lock the trunk switch with the valet key.
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I have read that when accelerating from a full stop, it is better to accelerate briskly, but keeping the bar graph in the ECO zone, to cruising speed is better overall for gas mileage compared to accelerating slower and taking more time to reach cruising speed....
I have also heard that it is better to accelerate using the bar graph and making sure it only goes half an inch past the ECO display above it. This way uses less RPM.
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Noticed that the front end (front lower skid plate) is different from the actual unit installed on the vehicle when compared to the pictures. The skid plate in the pics look much nicer and is larger and extends higher up towards the top of the lower part of the front bumper. [URL]........
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I timed my Tiguan for ten miles with the cruise control at 60mph on the way home tonight. This is the first car I've had where the speedometer reads less than actual speed. Average speed was 62.36mph. It varied between 60 and 65 on a mile by mile basis, but I can't put my finger on what caused the variation. The speed limit is 65 on that stretch, and there are a couple hills, but I was lucky and avoided slowpokes that would have taken me out of cruise.
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The MPG display on my new 2014 Camry XLE displays 1.5mpg higher than actual MPG. This is based on the first 9 tanks (Toyota Dealer reset the trip mileage during tire rotation). Mostly highway type of driving (backroads of the desert).
Note that the next three tanks-fulls the MPG display accuracy is better. Maybe the display is more accurate once the car get broken-in.
Data Follows:
Fill Up: Display MPG: Delta: Calculated MPG: Gallons: Miles
1 : 35.1 : 3.6 : 31.5 : 16.007 : 504.1
2 : 33.4 : 0.6 : 32.8 : 14.169 : 464.1
3 : 34.8 : 1.0 : 33.8 : 15.278 : 516.6
4 : 33.1 : 2.5 : 30.6 : 16.548 : 505.8
5 : 35.2 : 3.6 : 31.6 : 15.522 : 490.1 Max Fill
6 : 35.8 : -2.2 : 38.0 : 14.781 : 562.0
7 : 33.1 : 1.2 : 31.9 : 14.469 : 460.9
8 : 35.6 : 3.3 : 32.3 : 16.087 : 520.4
9 : 34.0 : -0.6 : 34.6 : 15.223 : 526.8
Totals
-------------------
9 : 34.5 : 1.5 : 33.0 : 138.084 : 4550.8
Overall MPG Display Error for 9 tanks: 1.5MPG overestimate
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I have strange electrical problems my 2006 Prius has recently developed.
It started off this past weekend when I went to shut off the vehicle after about a 5 mile drive. The car wouldn't power down, though, regardless of how many times I pressed the Power button. I then noticed that the wheels on the MFD were still turning, despite the car being stopped and in park. I shifted to drive, drove a few feet, shifted to reverse, drove a few feet, then back to park. Same problem. (Note that I was able to shift gears without any problems despite the wheels on the MFD continuing to turn.) I finally ended up leaving the car powered on for about 20 minutes, and when I returned the wheels on the MFD had stopped turning and I was able to successfully shut the car down.
I drove it several times with no problems, but then experienced the same problem again yesterday. Also, I noticed that the bar graph of mpg seems to be showing about half of what the car is actually getting. I was on a long trip, and the car seemed to be getting about its usual 50mpg, but the bar graph consistently showed ~25mpg. The "instant" bar on the far right of the graph was correct, as was the overall average displayed on the other page, but the graph itself was clearly wrong.
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I recently purchased a used 2007 and have since driven 308 miles on it. There are currently 3 bars left on the fuel gauge, and the computer reports that I'm averaging 45.8 mpg.
However, I don't see how that mpg is possible because if I have been averaging 45.8 mpg over 308 miles, I should have used only 6.27 gallons...and 6.27 gallons is only 56.5% of the 11.9 gallon tank size, compared to the 70% that I've used based on my current fuel gauge status.
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Driving at steady speed, doesn't matter what speed, let off gas and the tach surges 500 rpms and the car keeps going on it's own for a while. also pulling a hill at freeway speed car bucks like a spark plug miss, but not with the cruise on and engaged. smooth as silk then. 2009 Sonata 4 cyl, 30k miles.
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Checked the MPG Since Last Fillup numbers against computing the actual miles driven and fuel used manually? I find the (2011 460) numbers to be consistently 2 mpg or more higher than actuality. To be as accurate as I could I used the same pump at each filling, letting it stop automatically when full. I now wonder at the accuracy of the "total mpg"--which shows 14.1 for 15,000 miles. I drove 5000 of those, and never got more than 12.5 mpg (by the Lexus meter.)
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid that is having a speedometer problem. The speedometer registers 3 MPH more than my actual speed regardless what speed I am traveling. For example, if I am going 25 MPH, my speedometer will read 28 MPH; if I am traveling at 60 MPH my speedometer will read 63 MPH. I took my car to the dealership and they replicated the issue, but said that it is operating within ?normal? range. They admitted that they do not know how to fix the problem. I did not need to worry for it is operating within normal range. I have never had this problem with any other car, including my previous Toyota Camry.
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Having some challenges with my 2003 1.8T Passat (only 62,000 miles). Have been told about an oil leak long ago which is just now starting to be noticeable in actual drips. Keeping that under control (while I save up to pay for it; am not an "under the hood" type) for the moment (I check the oil level weekly and have only had to add a little since adding two quarts 6 weeks ago), but yesterday and this morning I now see a pink, watery fluid leaking from under the front passenger side.
About 6 weeks ago I had an issue where I had no coolant at all (got the warning light, my brother took me to VW, got the coolant, filled up). Checking that weekly too and had to add a little about two weeks ago, but so far its remaining level. Plus its on the driver's side, so would it have hoses running to the passenger side that could leak?
Checked other threads but find nothing else described as pink. Panicked this is steering, transmission (brakes even?), clutch (if there is) fluid? Am in a financial bind right now so can't just take it to some one for a look-see, and, as I say, am not a car geek. I can add oil and washer fluid, that's about it. Should I be panicked or simply continue to monitor coolant level?
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So my sister bought a 2007 Camry last year since she was impressed with the reliability of the 3rd gen Camrys we've been driving for the last decade. It's been a good car for the last six months but she's on the verge of selling it because of sudden transmission issues on top of the oil consumption problems that seem to be commonplace with this generation of 2.4L.
She says that her tach sometimes shoots up to about 3200 RPM when she taps the brakes going downhill and occasionally it feels like she's hitting pools of water on the highway. She also described hesitation followed by an extremely hard shift when braking more suddenly, such as avoiding people turning in front of her.
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